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ArtofUK Instructor YinXingStudents LiXiaoxiao MaShuang HuXuejiao LiQinglian LuoZihan LinYi TangShu Women scostumeofVictorianAge Victoria Victoria whosereignlasted64yearsinBritainhistory isthelongestmonarchinBritishhistory Andshe sthesymbolofanera Duringherreign peoplewereunitedbyheart Britainbecameapowerfulempire 1819 5 24 1901 1 22 Drinkingteaintheafternoon Britainbecameapowerfulempire Scienceandarthadwitnessedveryfastdevelopment CharlotteBronteJaneEyre TheMillontheFloss byGeorgeEliot Atthattimemanystylesofarchitectureappeared Greekstyle 希臘風(fēng)格 Gothicstyle 哥特式 She sthesymbolofanera changetheirlivingenvironmentandinteriordecorationstyle VictoriaStyle Letustakeyouonatourofwomen sclothinginVictoriafashioninthe19thcentury Specialbonnets 軟帽 Bonnets replacingthegreathats changedthewholecharacterofdaydresses TheearlyVictoriaAge In1835 Thelookofdemureprimgentilitywasemphasizedbythelossofthegreathatsforbonnets In1836Gigotsleevescollapsedabruptly Costumebegantodevelopthesentimental earlyVictorianlook weassociatewithQueenVictoria searlyrule TheearlysentimentalVictorianlookoftenusedtodepictladiesoftheera c1838 By1840thecollapsedsleevewasmuchnarrower Allthebonedbodice 胸衣 seamlinesandtrimsweredirectionaltoemphasizethesmallwaists By1845thebonedbodice 胸衣 wasevenmoreelongatedintoaVshape ThismeantthatanearlyVictorianwoman sarmmovementswererestricted Flounces 荷葉邊 wereaddedintheearly1840stomaketheskirtsappearwider Beautifulflounces Cartridgepleats 筒打褶 wereusedatfirsttodrawtheskirtfabricin1841 Cartridgepleats Laterby1850thewordcrinolinebegantomeanthewholeofthebeehiveshapedskirt 蜂巢狀裙子 Itwasthenonlyanothersteptocallthelaterartificialorcagehoopedsupportframepetticoatsafter1856 crinolines TheMidVictoriaAge FactorsAffectingtheFashionSilhouetteafter1860 sewingmachine 縫紉機(jī) hadbeeninventedcouturedesign 服裝設(shè)計(jì) playedamoreimportantroleinclothesworldsyntheticdyes 合成染料 madeitpossibletohaveintensecolors 強(qiáng)烈色彩 Crinoline 裙撐 domedskirtsilhouettetowardsthegarmentback Clothingdesigner CharlesWorth Hewasagreatdesigner andhedesignedanoverskirt whichcaughtoninEnglandafter1868 ThenewPrincessgown ThePrincessgownwascutinonepieceandconsistedofanumberofjoinedpanelsfittedandgoredfromshouldertohemLaterPrincessstyleswereslimmerandmuchmoreformfitting Sleevesindaydresseswereoftenofabananashape Anothertopskirt apron Rounderwaistlineswerefashionableandevenbegantoriseveryslightly Ballgownswithatrain From1870 ballgownsalwayshadatrain Soonby1873thetrainwasseenindaydress softpolonaisebustlestyles By1875thesestylesbecamesoextremethesoftfullnessbegantodropdownthebackofthegarmentTrainswereveryheavilyornamented theLateVictoriaAge Thisfascinatingeradidn tendwiththedeathofQueenVictoria Manyhistoriansbelievethattheso called Victorian endisaftertheendoftheFirstWorldWar ThePrincessLineSheath ThesoftpolonaisestylebustlestyleswerereplacedbyPrincesssheathgarments Dresswithcuirassebodice Thecuirassebodicewascorsetlikeanddippedevendeeperbothfrontandbackextendingwelldownthehipscreatingthelookofabodyencasedinarmour TheNewHardBustleof1883 Ithadminimaldraperycomparedtotheformerandaslimmermorefittedseverelytailoredprincessbodice withamuchflatterfront Thesharpertailoredjacketfashiongavethemadifferentposturewithamoreconfidentairreflectingtheidealsofearlyfemaleemancipation Thegownsofthe1880swerealmostalwaysmadeintwocoloursofmaterial PowerDressing Thelegofmuttonsleeves Thelegofmuttonsleevescontinuedtodevelopandsproutedhighabovetheshoulders By1895thesleevesswelledintoenormouspuffssimilartothoseof1833 Ashappenedin1830tobalancethehugeshoulderstheskirtwidenedandflared whilstkeepingthewaisttightandhandspannarrow Needfreedom Theleaderofthewomen liberationmovement ClaraZetkin Womenbegantoweartrousers In1887 SmithAstorfromtheUKworetrousersanddeclared Pantsarenotonlycomfortable healthy butdignified Victoria scostumehadnotonlychangedthedevelopmentofcostumeartsandtheprogressofthesociety butalsoimprovedthestatusofwomen Inourview Victoriancostumesarebeautifulandluxuriant It sthenoblesymbol But whenwomenatthattimeworethebreathlessgarmentandtheheavybustle whocanunderstandtheirpain Thatwasboundunderthebeautifulappearan

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