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1、-第二課:Marrakech馬拉喀什見聞 1 As the corpse went past the flies left the restaurant table in a cloud and rushed after it, but they came back a few minutes later.一具尸體抬過,成群的蒼蠅從飯館的餐桌上嗡嗡而起追逐過去,但幾分鐘過后又飛了回來。2 The little crowd of mourners - all men and boys, no women-threaded their way across the market place bet
2、ween the piles of pomegranates and the taxis and the camels, walling a short chant over and over again. What really appeals to the flies is that the corpses here are never put into coffins, they are merely wrapped in a piece of rag and carried on a rough wooden bier on the shoulders of four friends.
3、 When the friends get to the burying-ground they hack an oblong hole a foot or two deep, dump the body in it and fling over it a little of the dried-up, lumpy earth, which is like broken brick. No gravestone, no name, no identifying mark of any kind. The burying-ground is merely a huge waste of humm
4、ocky earth, like a derelict building-lot. After a month or two no one can even be certain where his own relatives are buried. 一支人數(shù)不多的送葬隊伍其中老少盡皆男性,沒有一個女的沿著集貿(mào)市場,從一堆堆石榴攤子以及出租汽車和駱駝中間擠道而行,一邊走著一邊悲痛地重復著一支短促的哀歌。蒼蠅之所以群起追逐是因為在這個地方死人的尸首從不裝進棺木,只是用一塊破布裹著放在一個草草做成的木頭架子上,有四個朋友抬著送葬。朋友們到了安葬場后,便在地上挖出一個一二英尺深的長方形坑,將尸首往坑
5、里一倒。再扔一些像碎磚頭一樣的干土塊。不立墓碑,不留姓名,什么識別標志都沒有。墳場只不過是一片土丘林立的荒野,恰似一片已廢棄不用的建筑場地。一兩個月過后,就誰也說不準自己的親人葬于何處了。3 When you walk through a town like this - two hundred thousand inhabitants of whom at least twenty thousand own literally nothing except the rags they stand up in- when you see how the people live, and sti
6、ll more how easily they die, it is always difficult to believe that you arewalking among human beings. All colonial empires are in reality founded upon this fact. The people have brown faces-besides, there are so many of them! Are they really the same flesh as your self? Do they even have names? Or
7、are they merely a kind of undifferentiated brown stuff, about as individual as bees or coral insects? They rise out of the earth,they sweat and starve for a few years, and then they sink back into the nameless mounds of the graveyard and nobody notices that they are gone. And even the graves themsel
8、ves soon fade back into the soil. Sometimes, out for a walk as you break your way through the prickly pear, you notice that it is rather bumpy underfoot, and only a certain regularity in the bumps tells you that you are walking over skeletons.當你穿行在這樣的城鎮(zhèn)其居民20萬中至少有2萬是除開一身聊以蔽體的破衣爛衫之外完全一無所有當你看到那些人是如何生活,
9、又如何輕易地死去時,你永遠難以相信自己是行走在人類之中。實際上,這是所有的殖民帝國賴以建立的基礎(chǔ)。這里的人都有一張褐色的臉,而且,人數(shù)如此之多!他們真的和你一樣同屬人類嗎?難道他們也會有名有姓嗎?也許他們只是像彼此之間難以區(qū)分的蜜蜂或珊瑚蟲一樣的東西。誰也不會注意到他們的離去。就是那些小墳丘本身也過不了很久便會變成平地。有時當你外出散步,穿過仙人掌叢時,你會感覺到地上有些絆腳的東西,只有這些有規(guī)則的突起的土包才會告訴你,你正踩在死人骷髏上。4 I was feeding one of the gazelles in the public gardens.我正在公園里給其中一只瞪羚喂食。5 Ga
10、zelles are almost the only animals that look good to eat when they are still alive, in fact, one can hardly look at their hindquarters without thinking of a mint sauce. The gazelle I was feeding seemed to know that this thought was in my mind, for though it took the piece of bread I was holding out
11、it obviously did not like me. It nibbled nibbled rapidly at the bread, then lowered its head and tried to butt me, then took another nibble and then butted again. Probably its idea was that if it could drive me away the bread would somehow remain hanging in mid-air.動物中也恐怕只有瞪羚還活著時就讓人覺得是美味佳肴。事實上,人們只要看
12、到它們那兩條后腿就會聯(lián)想到薄荷醬。我現(xiàn)在喂著的這只瞪羚好象已經(jīng)看透了我的心思。它雖然叼走了我拿在手上的一塊面包,但顯然不喜歡我這個人。它一面啃食著面包,一面頭一低向我頂過來,再啃一下面包又頂過來一次。它大概還因為把我趕開之后那塊面包仍會懸在空中。6 An Arab navvy working on the path nearby lowered his heavy hoe and sidled slowly towards us. He looked from the gazelle to the bread and from the bread to the gazelle, with a
13、sort of quiet amazement, as though he had never seen anything quite like this before. Finally he said shyly in French: "1 could eat some of that bread."一個正在附近小道上干活的阿拉伯挖土工放下笨重的鋤頭,羞怯地側(cè)著身子慢慢朝我們走過來。他把目光從瞪羚身上移向面包,又從面包轉(zhuǎn)回到瞪羚身上,帶著一點驚訝的神色,似乎以前從未見過這種情景。終于,他怯生生的用法語說道:“那面包讓我吃一點吧。”7 I tore off a piece
14、and he stowed it gratefully in some secret place under his rags. This man is an employee of the municipality.我撕下一塊面包,他感激地把面包放進破衣裳貼身的地方。這人是市政當局的雇工。8 When you go through the Jewish Quarters you gather some idea of what the medieval ghettoes were probably like. Under their Moorish Moorish rulers the Je
15、ws were only allowed to own land in certain restricted areas, and after centuries of this kind of treatment they have ceased to bother about overcrowding. Many of the streets are a good deal less than six feet wide, the houses are completely windowless, and sore-eyed children cluster everywhere in u
16、nbelievable numbers, like clouds of flies. Down the centre of the street there is generally running a little river of urine.當你走過這兒的猶太人聚居區(qū)時,你就會知道中世紀猶太人區(qū)大概是個什么樣子。在摩爾人的統(tǒng)治下,猶太人只能在劃定的一些地區(qū)內(nèi)保有土地。受這樣的待遇經(jīng)過了好幾個世紀后,他們已經(jīng)不再為擁擠不堪而煩擾了。這兒很多街道的寬度遠遠不足六英尺,房屋根本沒有窗戶,眼睛紅腫的孩子隨處可見,多的像一群群蒼蠅,數(shù)也數(shù)不清。街上往往是尿流成河。9 In the bazaar h
17、uge families of Jews, all dressed in the long black robe and little black skull-cap, are working in dark fly-infested booths that look like caves. A carpenter sits cross-legged at a prehistoric lathe, turning chair-legs at lightning speed. He works the lathe with a bow in his right hand and guides t
18、he chisel with his left foot, and thanks to a lifetime of sitting in this position his left leg is warped out of shape. At his side his grandson, aged six, is already starting on the simpler parts of the job.在集市上,一大家一大家的猶太人,全都身著黑色長袍,頭戴黑色便帽,在看起來像洞窟一般陰暗無光,蒼蠅麋集的攤篷里干活。一個木匠兩腳交叉坐在一架老掉牙的車床旁,正以飛快的速度旋制椅子腿。他右
19、手握弓開動車床,左腳引動旋刀。由于長期保持這種姿勢,左腳已經(jīng)彎翹變形了。他的一個年僅六歲的小孫子竟也在一旁開始幫著干一些簡單的活計了。10 I was just passing the coppersmiths' booths when somebody noticed that I was lighting a cigarette. Instantly, from the dark holes all round, there was a frenzied rush of Jews, many of them old grandfathers with flowing grey be
20、ards, all clamouring for a cigarette. Even a blind man somewhere at the back of one of the booths heard a rumour of cigarettes and came crawling out, groping in the air with his hand. In about a minute I had used up the whole packet. None of these people, I suppose, works less than twelve hours a da
21、y, and every one of them looks on a cigarette as a more or less impossible luxury.我正要走過一個銅匠鋪子時,突然有人發(fā)現(xiàn)我點著一支香煙。這一下子那些猶太人從四面八方的一個個黑洞窟里發(fā)瘋似地圍上來,其中有很多白胡子老漢,都吵著要討支煙抽。甚至連一個盲人聽到這討煙的吵嚷聲也從一個攤篷后面爬出來。伸手在空中亂摸。一分鐘光景,我那一包香煙全分完了。我想這些人中沒有誰會每天工作少于12個小時,可是他們個個都把一支香煙看成是一件十分難得的奢侈品。11 As the Jews live in self-contained co
22、mmunities they follow the same trades as the Arabs, except for agriculture. Fruit sellers, potters, silversmiths, blacksmiths, butchers, leather-workers, tailors, water-carriers, beggars, porters - whichever way you look you see nothing but Jews. As a matter of fact there are thirteen thousand of th
23、em, all living in the space of a few acres. A good job Hitler wasn't here. Perhaps he was on his way, however. You hear the usual dark rumours about Jews, not only from the Arabs but from the poorer Europeans.猶太人生活在一個自給自足的社會里,他們從事阿拉伯人所從事的行業(yè),只是沒有農(nóng)業(yè)。他們中有賣水果的,有陶工、銀匠、鐵匠、屠夫、皮匠、裁縫、運水工,還有乞丐、腳夫放眼四顧,到處是猶
24、太人。事實上,在這不過幾英畝的空間內(nèi)居住著的猶太人就足足有一萬三千之多。也算這些猶太人好運氣,希特勒未曾光顧這里。不過,他也許曾經(jīng)準備來的。你常聽到的有關(guān)猶太人的風言風語(不利傳言),不僅可以從阿拉伯人那里聽到,而且還可以從較窮的歐洲人那里聽到。12 "Yes mon vieux, they took my job away from me and gave it to a Jew. The Jews! They' re the real rulers of this country, you know. Theyve got all the money. They cont
25、rol the banks, finance - everything."“我的老兄啊,他們把我的飯碗奪走給了猶太人。想必你也知道這些猶太人吧,他們才是這個國家真正的主宰。我們的錢都進了他們的腰包。銀行、財政一切都被他們控制住了?!?3 "But", I said, "isn't it a fact that the average Jew is a labourer working for about a penny an hour?" “可是,”我說道,“大多數(shù)普通猶太人不也是為了一點微薄的工錢而辛勤勞作的苦力嗎?”14 "
26、;Ah, that's only for show! They' re all money lenders really. They' re cunning, the Jews." “噢!那不過是做出樣子來給人看的(做秀)。事實上他們都是些放債獲利的富豪。這些猶太人就是鬼得很?!?5 In just the same way, a couple of hundred years ago, poor old women used to be burned for witchcraft when they could not even work enough ma
27、gic to get themselves a square meal. 與此恰恰相似的是,幾百年前,常常也有些苦命的老太婆被當成巫婆給活活燒死,然而事實上她們就連為自己變出一頓象樣飯菜的巫術(shù)都沒有。16 All people who work with their hands are partly invisible, and the more important the work they do, the less visible they are. Still, a white skin is always fairly conspicuous. In northern Europe,
28、when you see a labourer ploughing a field, you probably give him a second glance. In a hot country, anywhere south of Gibraltar or east of Suez, the chances are that you don't even see him. I have noticed this again and again. In a tropical landscape one's eye takes in everything except the
29、human beings. It takes in the dried-up soil, the prickly pear, the palm tree and the distant mountain, but it always misses the peasant hoeing at his patch. He is the same colour as the earth, and a great deal less interesting to look at. 所有靠自己的雙手干活的人一般都有點不太引人注目,他們所干的活兒越是重要,就越不為人所注目。不過,白皮膚總是比較顯眼的。在北
30、歐,若是發(fā)現(xiàn)田里有一個工人在耕地,你多半會再看他一眼。而在一個熱帶國家,直布羅陀以南或蘇伊士運河以東的任何一個地方,你就可能看不到田里耕作的人。我一次又一次地注意到了這個情形。在熱帶地區(qū),一切自然景色可以盡收眼底,惟獨看不見人。人們可以看到干巴的土地、仙人掌、棕櫚樹,還有遠處的群山,但往往遺漏了在地里鋤地的農(nóng)夫。他的膚色和土壤的顏色一樣,卻遠遠不及土壤中看。17 It is only because of this that the starved countries of Asia and Africa are accepted as tourist resorts. No one woul
31、d think of running cheap trips to the Distressed Areas. But where the human beings have brown skins their poverty is simply not noticed. What does Morocco mean to a Frenchman? An orange grove or a job in Government service. Or to an Englishman? Camels, castles, palm trees, Foreign Legionnaires, bras
32、s trays, and bandits. One could probably live there for years without noticing that for nine-tenths of the people the reality of life is an endless back-breaking struggle to wring a little food out of an eroded soil. 正因如此,貧困潦倒的亞非國家倒成了旅游勝地。沒有人會想組織游客去貧民窟去旅游,盡管費用低廉。但在居住著棕色皮膚的人的地方,他們的貧困卻完全無人注意。摩洛哥對于一個法國
33、人來說意味著什么呢?無非是一個能買到橘園或者謀取一份政府差使的地方。對于一個英國人呢?不過是駱駝、城堡、棕櫚樹、外籍兵團、黃銅盤子和匪徒等富于浪漫色彩的字眼而已。就算在那兒居住多年的人們也未曾注意到,對于當?shù)匕俜种攀木用穸?,生活是一場為了從貧瘠的土地上榨出一點食物而進行的永無停息、艱苦卓絕的抗爭。18 Most of Morocco is so desolate that no wild animal bigger than a hare can live on it. Huge areas which were once covered with forest have turned
34、into a treeless waste where the soil is exactly like broken-up brick. Nevertheless a good deal of it is cultivated, with frightful labour. Everything is done by hand. Long lines of women, bent double like inverted capital Ls, work their way slowly across the fields, tearing up the prickly weeds with
35、 their hands, and the peasant gathering lucerne for fodder pulls it up stalk by stalk instead of reaping it, thus saving an inch or two on each stalk. The plough is a wretched wooden thing, so frail that one can easily carry it on one's shoulder, and fitted underneath with a rough iron spike whi
36、ch stirs the soil to a depth of about four inches. This is as much as the strength of the animals is equal to. It is usual to plough with a cow and a donkey yoked together. Two donkeys would not be quite strong enough, but on the other hand two cows would cost a little more to feed. The peasants pos
37、sess no narrows, they merely plough the soil several times over in different directions, finally leaving it in rough furrows, after which the whole field has to be shaped with hoes into small oblong patches to conserve water. Except for a day or two after the rare rainstorms there is never enough wa
38、ter. A long the edges of the fields channels are hacked out to a depth of thirty or forty feet to get at the tiny trickles which run through the subsoil. 摩洛哥的土地大部分荒無人煙,能夠在此存活的野生動物還沒有野兔大。大片曾經(jīng)有森林覆蓋著的土地已經(jīng)變成寸草不生的荒野,土壤如同碎磚頭一般。但在人們的辛苦勞作下,相當多的土地卻被開墾了出來。所有的活兒都是手工完成的。排著長隊的女人們彎著腰,像倒著的大寫字母L一樣,一面沿著田地慢慢往前走,一面用手拔
39、掉帶刺的野草。農(nóng)民們在采集紫花苜蓿作牲口飼料時,不是用鐮刀割斷而是用手一株株地拔起,這樣收割苜蓿剩下的一兩英寸的根莖就不至于浪費。犁是木頭制的劣等品,完全不結(jié)實,一個人可以輕而易舉地扛在肩上。犁的底部安著一個粗糙的鐵釘,它可以翻地約四英寸深。這和拉犁牲口的力量相當。通常是將一頭牛和一頭驢子套在一起拉犁。兩頭驢子的力量不夠,另一方面,改用兩頭牛的話,所需的飼料又更多。農(nóng)民們沒有耕地用的耙,他們只是順著不同的方向把地犁上幾遍,犁出一道道不平的壟溝,最后再用鋤頭把整塊地整成一塊塊用來蓄水的長方形小畦。除了罕見的暴風雨過后的一兩天之外,其余時間這里都缺水。農(nóng)民們沿著田邊挖出一道道深達30或40英尺的溝
40、渠,以便把下層土壤的涓涓細流匯聚起來。19 Every afternoon a file of very old women passes down the road outside my house, each carrying a load of firewood. All of them are mummified with age and the sun, and all of them are tiny. It seems to be generally the case in primitive communities that the women, when they get b
41、eyond a certain age, shrink to the size of children. One day poor creature who could not have been more than four feet tall crept past me under a vast load of wood. I stopped her and put a five-sou piece ( a little more than a farthing into her hand. She answered with a shrill wail, almost a scream,
42、 which was partly gratitude but mainly surprise. I suppose that from her point of view, by taking any notice of her, I seemed almost to be violating a law of nature. She accepted her status as an old woman, that is to say as a beast of burden. When a family is travelling it is quite usual to see a f
43、ather and a grown-up son riding ahead on donkeys, and an old woman following on foot, carrying the baggage. 每天下午都會有一隊年老的婦人背著柴火,從我家門口的那條路走過。她們都因為年紀和日曬的緣故變得如木乃伊那般干癟,個個身材瘦小。在原始社會,通常婦女們到達一定年齡后,身材會縮成孩子般大小。有一天,一個不超過四英尺高的可憐家伙背著重重的木頭,從我面前緩緩走過。我攔住了她,往她手中塞了一個面值五個蘇的錢幣(約多于四分之一便士)。她的反應(yīng)是一聲近乎尖叫的刺耳哭喊,這喊叫部分是出于感激,但多半
44、是詫異。我想,在她看來,我這樣注意到她,幾乎是違反了自然規(guī)律。她接受了自己既是老婦人,也是馱畜的社會地位。每當一家人四處遠行時,通常可以看到父親和已成年的兒子騎著驢子走在前面,而一位老婦人則背著行囊步行跟在后面。20 But what is strange about these people is their invisibility. For several weeks, always at about the same time of day, the file of old women had hobbled past the house with their firewood, an
45、d though they had registered themselves on my eyeballs I cannot truly say that I had seen them. Firewood was passing - that was how I saw it. It was only that one day I happened to be walking behind them, and the curious up-and-down motion of a load of wood drew my attention to the human being benea
46、th it. Then for the first time I noticed the poor old earth-colored bodies, bodies reduced to bones and leathery skin, bent double under the crushing weight. Yet I suppose I had not been five minutes on Moroccan soil before I noticed the overloading of the donkeys and was infuriated by it. There is
47、no question that the donkeys are damnably treated. The Moroccan donkey is hardly bigger than a St. Bernard dog, it carries a load which in the British Army would be considered too much for a fifteen-hands mule, and very often its packsaddle is not taken off its back for weeks together. But what is p
48、eculiarly pitiful is that it is the most willing creature on earth, it follows its master like a dog and does not need either bridle or halter. After a dozen years of devoted work it suddenly drops dead, whereupon its master tips it into the ditch and the village dogs have torn its guts out before i
49、t is cold. 然而這些人的奇特之處就在于他們無影無形。幾個星期以來,每天幾乎在同一個時段,都會有一隊老婦人背著柴火在我房前蹣跚而過。盡管這一幕已經(jīng)映人了我的眼簾,但仍然不能說我果真看到了她們。我所目睹到的只是成捆的柴火在向前蹣跚而行。直到那一天我碰巧走在她們后面的時候,我看到一捆柴火很奇怪地時上時下,這才讓我注意到原來下面還有人。我這才第一次注意到這些可憐的 老婦人的土色軀體,一些瘦得只剩皮包骨頭、在重壓之下彎曲變形的軀體。但是我覺得我來到摩洛哥土地還不到五分鐘就已經(jīng)注意到驢子的負荷過重,并為此頗感憤怒。毫無疑問,這兒的驢子受到了虐待。摩洛哥的驢子幾乎和圣伯納犬一樣大小,但它承受的負荷
50、在英國軍隊里讓一頭高約一點五米的騾子馱都嫌重,而且,它身上的馱鞍經(jīng)常一連幾個星期都不卸下。但是,尤其讓人覺得可悲的是,摩洛哥驢子是地球上最溫順的動物。不需要安上籠頭或者韁繩,它就如同一條狗一樣聽從主人的吩咐。拼命工作十幾年后,它便倒下猝死,這時主人便把它丟進溝里,在尸體變冷之前,它的五臟六腑早已被村狗掏出來吃掉。21 This kind of thing makes one's blood boil, whereas- on the whole - the plight of the human beings does not. I am not commenting, merely
51、pointing to a fact. People with brown skins are next door to invisible. Anyone can be sorry for the donkey with its galled back, but it is generally owing to some kind of accident if one even notices the old woman under her load of sticks. 這類事情令人義憤填膺,然而,一般而言,人的困境卻沒有引起同樣的反響。我并不是在發(fā)表議論,而僅僅是在指出一個事實。棕色人近
52、乎于無形。人人都會同情一頭脊背磨傷的驢子,但若要注意到柴火堆下的老婦人,只能是歸于某種巧合。22 As the storks flew northward the Negroes were marching southward - a long, dusty column, infantry , screw-gun batteries, and then more infantry, four or five thousand men in all, winding up the road with a clumping of boots and a clatter of iron wheel
53、s. 白鸛展翅北飛時,黑人卻正行軍南下一列長長的、滿面灰塵的行軍隊伍,步兵,炮兵,接著是人數(shù)更多的步兵,總共有四五千人,正靴聲霍霍,輪聲轆轆地蜿蜒前進。23 They were Senegalese, the blackest Negroes in Africa, so black that sometimes it is difficult to see whereabouts on their necks the hair begins. Their splendid bodies were hidden in reach-me-down khaki uniforms, their fee
54、t squashed into boots that looked like blocks of wood, and every tin hat seemed to be a couple of sizes too small. It was very hot and the men had marched a long way. They slumped under the weight of their packs and the curiously sensitive black faces were glistening with sweat. 他們是塞內(nèi)加爾人,是非洲膚色最黑的黑人,
55、黑得有時讓人難以看清他們脖頸上的頭發(fā)從何而生。他們健美的身體上穿著舊的卡其布制服,腳上套著一雙看上去像木塊似的靴子,頭上戴著一頂碼子過小的鋼盔。天氣非常炎熱,這些黑人已經(jīng)走了很長的一段路。他們疲憊不堪地背著沉重的行李,好奇敏感的臉頰上汗水閃閃發(fā)光。24 As they went past, a tall, very young Negro turned and caught my eye. But the look he gave me was not in the least the kind of look you might expect. Not hostile, not contemptuous, not sullen, not even inquisitive. It was the shy, wide-eyed Negro loo
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