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1、橋中識巴黎Knowing Paris by Its BridgesSometimes, when sleep eludes me in the dark hour before dawn, I make my way to the Pont de la Tournelle, the 400-foot bridge that links the lie Saint-Louis to Paris, s Left Bank. I plant myself at its midpoint, face west and wait. Before me is the skeletal back of No
2、tre-Dame, shrouded in darkness.有時,我在黎明前的黑暗中醒來,不能再入睡時,我會 走上都爾奈勒橋,這座122米長的橋把巴黎左岸與圣路易島 連接起來。我站在橋中央,面向西等待著,面前是籠罩在黑 暗中的圣母院后部的輪廓。I watch as the sky moves from blue-black to deep blue velvet to soft gray, then light blue. The delicate architectural details of the cathedral gradually reveal themselves, unti
3、l finally, the early morning sun bathes them in warm orange hues.之處再往下游走一點的地方。它不拘一格,追求不對稱的效 果,集拱橋與懸索橋于一體;雖然跨越塞納河最寬的一段,卻 看不見任何橋墩或者支撐物。八The heart of Paris is still the lie de la Cite, theisland in the middle of the river where Paris was created in ancient times. There, at the foot of the Hotel de Vill
4、e (City Hall), is the Pont d Arcole, the site of the last scene of the 2003 film “Something s Gotta Give. Jack Nicholson, thinking he has lost Diane Keaton, stumbles out of a restaurant near the Hotel de Ville and onto the bridge. An accordionist plays 11 La vie en rose. A tourist boat aglow in whit
5、e lights cruises below him. He gets teary-eyed. It starts to snow. She arrives in a taxi to confess that she still loves him. He tells her, /zIf it s true, my life just got made r m 63 years old, and I m in love for the first time in my life/7 They kiss.巴黎的中心仍然是西岱島(ile de la Cite),這個位于河 中的小島是古代巴黎的發(fā)源
6、地。在那里,阿爾科萊橋(Pont d Arcole)就在市政廳的腳下,2003年的電影愛是妥協(xié) (Something s Gotta Give)的最后一幕就是在這里拍攝的。杰克尼科爾森(Jack Nicholson)以為自己失去了黛安基頓(Diane Keaton),跌跌撞撞地走出市政廳附近的一家餐廳,上了橋。一個手風琴演奏者在彈奏玫瑰人生(La vieen rose)o橋下是一艘閃閃發(fā)光的游船駛過。他淚眼婆娑。天上開始飄雪。她坐著出租車趕來,成認自己仍然爰著他。他對她說,如果真是這樣,我的生活才剛剛開始我今 年63歲,我戀愛了有生以來的第一次。他們吻在一 起。Even the most fa
7、ntastic love scenes in the moviesseem plausible standing on a Parisian bridge.站在巴黎的橋上,即使電影中最夢幻的愛情場景也顯得真實可信。八Nearby, the Pont Saint-Louis connects the lie de laCite and the smaller lie Saint-Louis. It is a short, unexceptional bridge, but serves as an intimate stage for musicians, especially American
8、s playing jazz, jugglers, actors and mime artists.附近的圣路易橋連接著西岱島和較小的圣路易島。這座 橋很短,沒有什么特別之處,但它是音樂家們,尤其是美國 爵士樂手、以及雜耍者、演員和啞劇藝人的私享舞臺。A half a mile west is Paris7 s oldest bridge, paradoxically named the Pont-Neuf, the “new 人bridge at the tip of the lie de la Cite, and more or less the center point of the S
9、eine s course through the city. A 17th-century triumph of design and technology, it was the first bridge in Paris to be built entirely of stone and featured pedestrian walkways. It was built without the houses that lined earlier bridges and cluttered the views. In constructing it through and on both
10、 sides of the island, Henri IV created an intimate, permanent bond between Parisians and the lifeblood of their city, the Seine.往西半英里是巴黎最古老的橋,矛盾的是,它的名字卻 叫做新橋(Pont-Neuf),它位于西岱島一端,差不多在 塞納河流經(jīng)這座城市的中點。這座橋建于17世紀,堪稱設(shè) 計與技術(shù)上的巨大成功,它是巴黎第一座完全由石頭建造的 橋,兩側(cè)設(shè)有人行道,并且沒有早期橋梁上那些令周遭景色 雜亂不堪的房屋。這座橋由亨利四世下令修建,將西岱島和 左右兩岸連接起來,
11、為巴黎人和城市的命脈塞納河建立了親 密的永久性紐帶。This bond still exists. Behind a statue of Henri IV on the bridge are staircases that descend two flights. They open out onto a spit of land at the westernmost 八 tip of the He de la Cite, the Square du Vert-Galant. Unlike most Paris parks, it is open to the public all night
12、 long. When the river is high, the branches of the weeping willow planted in cobblestones at the tip of the square caress the surface of the Seine. You can come close enough to reach out and touch the water.這個紐帶至今仍在。橋上亨利四世雕像的后面有兩段下 行的樓梯。它們通向西岱島最西端的一塊區(qū)域,即綠色戈蘭 廣場。與大多數(shù)巴黎公園不同的是,它徹夜對公眾開放。河 水上漲時,廣場一側(cè)的鵝卵石堤
13、岸邊,垂柳樹枝輕撫著塞納 河水面。你可以走上前去,伸手觸摸河流。A quarter mile to the west, at the Louvre, is the Pont des Arts, a wood-slatted, iron pedestrian bridge that links the museum to the Institut de France, home of the Academie Franaise, on the other side of the river. A magnet for picnickers, it was once the place coupl
14、es proclaimed their love by attaching metal padlocks. But the spindly, fragile footbridge was too weak to bear the weight of all this love. The city of Paris lined the bridge barriers with lock-resistantPlexiglas, and couples moved east to the Pont Neuf, until its barriers were replaced with corruga
15、ted plastic. But the love locks still sprout on odd spaces 一 between barriers on bridges, on lampposts and on heavy iron mooring rings all along the river.盧浮宮以西四分之一英里處是藝術(shù)橋(Pont des Arts), 這是一座鐵構(gòu)人行橋,橋面由木板鋪成,將盧浮宮與河對岸 的法蘭西學會(Institut de France)連接起來。法蘭西學會是 法蘭西學術(shù)院(Acad6mie Franqaise)的所在地。藝術(shù)橋曾是 情侶們用金屬掛鎖來示
16、爰的地方,也吸引著許多野餐者。但 是這座人行橋細長而又脆弱,承受不了那么多愛的重量。巴 黎市在橋欄之間安裝了無法掛鎖的有機玻璃,情侶們只得向 東遷移到新橋,直到那座橋的橋欄也裝上了波紋塑料。但是, 爰之鎖仍然在一些奇怪的地方出現(xiàn)橋上的柵欄之間,燈 柱上,河邊的重鐵系舶環(huán)上。Heading downstream, history buffs might like towalk over the Pont de la Concorde which joins the Place de la Concorde with the National Assembly. The bridge was bu
17、ilt during the French Revolution using stones of the demolished Bastille, “so that the people could forever trample on the old fortress/7 according to Rodolphe Perronet, the bridge7 s engineer.順流而下,歷史愛好者可能會走過協(xié)和橋(Pont de la Concorde),它連接協(xié)和廣場和國民議會。這座橋是在法國 大革命期間用拆毀的巴士底獄的石頭建造的,這樣人們就 可以永遠踐踏這座古老的堡壘,這座橋的工程
18、師 (Rodolphe Perronet)說。The most elegant bridge in Paris巴黎最優(yōu)雅的橋Then comes the most elegant of Paris bridges: the Pont Alexandre III, a belle epoque confection linking the Invalides to the Champs-Elysees. Built for the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900, it was named in honor of the father of the vi
19、siting Russian czar, Nicholas ILSculptures of full-figured, bare-breasted nymphs look out at the river from their perches at the bridge7 s center. Gilded candelabra, trumpet-blowing angels, lion-taming cherubs, dolphins, starfish, sea monsters and birds proclaim joy. Faust, a nightclub, sits underne
20、ath the bridge on the Left Bank.接下來是巴黎最優(yōu)雅的橋:亞歷山大三世橋(Pont Alexandre III),它連接著榮軍院和香榭麗舍大道,是美好 時代(belle epoque)遺留下來的精品。它是為1900年的 巴黎博覽會建造的以來訪的俄國沙皇尼古拉二世(Nicholas H)的父親命名。真人大小的裸胸女神雕像棲居在橋梁中心俯 瞰河流。鍍金燭臺、吹號天使、馴服獅子的小天使、海豚、 海星、海怪和鳥類的雕像無不是歡樂的象征。左岸一側(cè)的橋 下有一家名叫浮土德的夜總會。The Pont Alexandre III is so emblematic of Paris
21、that when mayor Anne Hidalgo led a campaign to promote her city as the site for the 2024 SummerOlympics, she built a 12-meter diving board on the bridge and a floating running track alongside it to stage a show of Olympic sporting events. The Eiffel Tower was strategically visible in the background
22、for the perfect photo frame.亞歷山大三世橋堪稱巴黎的象征,為巴黎申力2024年 夏季奧運會主辦城市時市長安娜伊達爾戈(Anne Hidalgo) 在這座橋上建了一座12米跳臺,旁邊是一個浮動跑道,展 示奧運體育賽事。站在橋上,埃菲爾鐵塔在背景中非常醒目, 可以拍出完美的照片。The city of Paris also spends millions of dollars every year to light up its river banks, and at night, the bridges look like bright necklaces strun
23、g across the river. They show off the two schools of lighting: the Paris school, which bathes its subjects in warm, even light, and the Lyon school, which uses small spotlights to highlight details for dramatic effect. Thedecorations of Pont Alexandre III are lit with the pointillism of the Lyon sch
24、ool. So are the arches and hanging lamps of the Pont de Bercy, the high-relief sculptures on the Pont d Austerlitz, and the medallions on the N monograms, in honor of Napoleon III, on the Pont au Change.巴黎每年花費數(shù)百萬美元為河岸照明,夜晚,這些橋看 起來就像串在河上的明亮項鏈。它們展示了兩種照明風格: 巴黎派和里昂派,前者讓對象沐浴在溫暖、均勻的光線之中; 后者那么使用小聚光燈突出細節(jié),到達
25、戲劇性的效果。亞歷山 大三世橋上的裝飾采用里昂派的點彩風格照明。貝西橋 (Pont de Bercy)上的拱門和懸燈、奧斯特里茨橋(Pont d Austerlitz)上的高浮雕雕塑、兌換橋(Pont au Change) 上紀念拿破侖三世(Napoleon HI)的N字母圓雕飾也都是如 此。Gary Zuercher, a retired businessman and a lifelong photographer, was so passionate about the隨著天空從藍黑變成深藍色的天鵝絨、再到柔和的灰 色、直到淡藍,大教堂精致的建筑細節(jié)在我眼前逐漸顯現(xiàn), 直到清晨的陽光令它
26、們最終沐浴在溫暖的橙色中。The back side of Notre-Dame is the creation of Eugene Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, the young architect in charge of the cathedraT s restoration in the 19th century. It looks nothing like the grandiose main entrance, whose hundreds of Medieval stone carvings make it one of the most recogniza
27、ble images of Paris around the world.圣母院的后部是尤金伊曼紐爾維歐勒-勒-杜克 (Eugene Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc)的創(chuàng)作,這位年輕的 建筑師是負責大教堂19世紀修復(fù)工作的人。從后面看,大 教堂與其華麗的正面截然不同,正門成百上千的中世紀石雕 使大教堂成為巴黎在世界上最易于識別的形象之一。The view from behind is different from what it wasjust a few months ago. During the great fire of April way the bridges lo
28、ok at night that he spent more than five years photographing them in black and white for a 190coffee-table book, “The Glow of Paris.” Because Paris isnz t fully dark in the summer months until about 11 p.m., he did most of his work during the winter. Z/I wanted to present the majesty of the Paris br
29、idges in their most alluring setting/1 he said.“Nighttime.”退休商人、畢生從事攝影的加里祖爾希(Gary Zuercher) 熱爰這些橋梁在夜晚的樣子,他花了五年多的時間拍攝這些 橋的黑白照片,收集為190頁的畫冊巴黎的光輝(The Glow of Paris)o因為在夏天的幾個月里,巴黎要到晚上11 點左右才會完全黑下來,他的大局部作品都是在冬天拍攝 的。我想在最迷人的背景下展現(xiàn)巴黎大橋的雄偉壯觀, 他說。那就是夜晚。By day, tourist boat rides on the Seine are interesting, of
30、 course, but at night, they becomevoyages of discovery. I take visitors on the Vedettes deParis, a small bateau-mouche, because if we arrive early enough, we can nab a spot in the front of an upper deck. When the boat passes under the bridges, we can see how the lighting from underneath reveals the
31、curves and angles of their underbellies.白天在塞納河上乘坐游船當然很有趣,但到了晚上,乘 船游河就成了探索之旅。我?guī)е慰蛡兇畛税屠栌^光船 (Vedettes de Paris),這是一艘小型觀光船,如果到得足夠 早,就能在上層甲板的前面占個位子。當船從橋下經(jīng)過時, 可以看到橋下的燈光會將橋梁下方的曲線和角度展現(xiàn)出來。Tour guides on the bateaux-mouches will tell you that the Pont Marie is the lovers7 bridge. The story goes that if you m
32、ake a wish as the boat slips under the bridge and keep the wish secret, it will be granted. One summer night, I took two female college students for a boat ride. As we approached the bridge, arecording announced: If you re with the person you love, kiss him or her under the bridge, make a wish, and
33、your wish will come true. One of the students closed her eyes and made a wish, even though her boyfriend was an ocean away.觀光船上的導(dǎo)游會告訴你,瑪麗橋(Pont Marie)是一座 戀人之橋。傳說如果你在船從橋下行駛而過的時候許個愿, 并且不告訴別人,這個愿望就會實現(xiàn)。一個夏天的晚上,我 帶著兩個女大學生乘坐觀光船游覽。當我們接近大橋時,船 上的錄音宣布:如果你和愛人在一起,在橋下親吻他或她, 再許個愿,你的愿望就會實現(xiàn)。其中一個學生閉上眼睛許 了個愿,盡管她的男友遠隔
34、重洋。15, 2019, the cathedral lost the spire thatViollet-le-Duc erected, and sections of the roof are hidden under protective scaffolding. But the structure still shows its splendor at night, the flat, dark silhouette of its flying buttresses visible through the trees.后面的景象與幾個月前已經(jīng)大不相同。在2019年4月 15日的那場大火
35、中,大教堂失去了維歐勒-勒-杜克建造的尖 頂,局部屋頂現(xiàn)在已被保護性腳手架遮蓋起來。但在夜間, 這個結(jié)構(gòu)仍保存著它的光彩,夜里,大教堂飛扶壁的平坦黑 色輪廓透過樹枝依稀可見。I am never alone when I come here. Sitting atop atall, stark pylon on the southeastern bank of the bridge is the 1928 statue of Sainte Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. The fifth-century saint is portrayed as
36、a young woman, her hands on the shoulders of a child who represents the city. During her lifetime, Genevieve predicted that Attila and his Mongol hordes would spare Paris from massacre and destruction; after she was proved right, she was heralded as the savior of Paris. These days, she looks out on
37、the water - and perhaps down on me - like a silent protector.我在橋上從來都不孤獨。橋東南岸一個巍然兀立的高大 塔架頂端,是1928年修建的巴黎守護神圣日內(nèi)維耶(Sainte Genevieve)的雕像。這個五世紀的圣女以一名年輕女性的形 象出現(xiàn),她把雙手放在一個象征巴黎的孩子的肩上。日內(nèi)維 耶在有生之年曾預(yù)言,阿提拉及其率領(lǐng)的蒙古部落將會放過 巴黎,使其免于屠殺和毀滅;在她的預(yù)言被證明正確后,她被 封為巴黎的救星。這些日子里,她像一名默默的保護者那樣 看著河水也許也看著我。The Seine begins to awaken at
38、dawn. The first barges of the morning move downstream. The river police begin their patrols in fast-moving inflatable boats. The garbage trucks rumble along the quays picking up the refuse from the revelry the night before. Dogs bark. Crows caw.塞納河在黎明時分醒來。清晨的第一艘駁船順流而下。 河警乘著快速移動的充氣船開始巡邏。垃圾車在碼頭邊的路 上隆隆
39、作響,把狂歡作樂的人群頭天晚上丟下的垃圾運走。 狗吠。烏鴉發(fā)出聒噪的叫聲。I have found on the Pont de la Tournelle a special place and time in which to make Paris my own.我在都爾奈勒橋上找到了一個特殊的地點和時刻,讓巴 黎完全屬于我自己。All that contemplation whets my appetite, and from here, I walk along the quay on the Left Bank until I reach Le Depart Saint-Michel,
40、 a 24-hour cafe-brasserie. A touristy place to avoid at lunch and dinner, it is a great place for people-watching over an omelet and an espresso at early rush hour and a fitting way to savor the magic of a Seine River bridge at dawn.想太多想到肚子餓,從這里,我沿著左岸的駁岸,來到Le Depart Saint-Michel ,這是一家全天營業(yè)的咖啡館/小酒館。午餐
41、和晚餐時間要避開這里,因為全是游客,但在早高 峰的時候,這里是點上一份煎蛋卷和濃縮咖啡,坐下來看著 往來路人的好去處,也是在黎明時分領(lǐng)略塞納河的橋所散發(fā) 魔力的好地方。Study Paris through its bridges, and you have a mosaic of the city1 s history and architecture.通過橋研究巴黎,將這座城市的歷史和建筑如馬賽克一 般拼接起來。There are 35 bridges crossing the eight-mile span from one end of Paris to the other, star
42、ting at the PontNational upstream to the Pont du Garigliano, the last bridge as the river moves to the sea (the number is 37 if you count the Boulevard Peripherique, the utilitarian highway that rings the city and crosses the river upstream at Charenton/Bercy and downstream at Saint-Cloud/Issy).從巴黎的
43、一端到另一端,8英里的范圍里有35座橋, 從上游的國家橋(Pont National)到塞納河入海前的最后一 座橋加里利亞諾橋(Pont du Garigliano)o假設(shè)是算上在 上游的沙朗通/貝西和下游的圣克盧/伊西兩次跨越塞納河的 環(huán)城大道(Boulevard Peripherique),貝!有 37 座橋。Unesco celebrates 23 of the city s bridges in its designation of the banks of the Seine 一 from the Pont de Sully, near Notre-Dame Cathedral to the Pont d lena, at th
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