專用服裝三維CAD模型

1、哌焊仵郊怨受娩鑒壘狡誣剿服裝設(shè)計(jì)中的計(jì)算機(jī)輔助方法猸卻京北欠開闋噬尢褪暴憑三維計(jì)算機(jī)輔助設(shè)計(jì)（ CAD ）技術(shù)正逐漸擴(kuò)散到服裝的設(shè)計(jì)和制造應(yīng)用領(lǐng)域。目前，服裝行業(yè)普遍使用的二維CAD工具。預(yù)計(jì)，三維設(shè)計(jì)工具，將成為未來服裝行業(yè)中不斷發(fā)展的技術(shù)。服裝產(chǎn)品的設(shè)計(jì)的基本問題是合體性的問題以及相關(guān)的二維圖形生成的問題。最終目標(biāo)是設(shè)計(jì)和生產(chǎn)非常合體的個(gè)性化服裝，而三維方法是通過努力可以實(shí)現(xiàn)這一目標(biāo)的最合理的辦法。三維方法包括幾個(gè)關(guān)鍵因素：其中包括參數(shù)化三維人體模型;三維服裝模擬;三維圖案設(shè)計(jì)，并3D/2D模型轉(zhuǎn)換。哮攀羸勐椋滬嘻慕才激途緞做這個(gè)課題的目的是提供一個(gè)平臺(tái)，供研究人員回顧過去的技術(shù)發(fā)展，并為

2、今后研究三維服裝設(shè)計(jì)方法找出可能的方向。這里選擇了題目相關(guān)的五篇論文，為服裝行業(yè)提供三維應(yīng)用程序發(fā)展的背景和技術(shù)。第一份文件是一個(gè)粗略的審查織物仿真技術(shù)，該技術(shù)奠定了基礎(chǔ)的三維服裝設(shè)計(jì)。接下來的三篇論文詳細(xì)介紹了虛擬的環(huán)境中的三維服裝設(shè)計(jì)。最后一篇介紹了將三維服裝轉(zhuǎn)換為二維樣板的新技術(shù)。撤驪尷鯽安鬯咳贗坍揞禧讜第一篇論文是從Choi and Ko得到的，有關(guān)織物仿真研究問題。作為一項(xiàng)服裝設(shè)計(jì)和修改的基本技術(shù)，物理為基礎(chǔ)的織物仿真技術(shù)被用來產(chǎn)生織物運(yùn)動(dòng)的逼真效果。這篇論文介紹了織物仿真技術(shù)的三個(gè)方面：（1）服裝結(jié)構(gòu); （2）基于物理的模擬，和（3）碰撞檢測(cè)和響應(yīng)。所面臨的技術(shù)挑戰(zhàn)，即創(chuàng)造更多的實(shí)

3、際成果;實(shí)現(xiàn)更快的運(yùn)行時(shí)間，制造/模擬更為復(fù)雜的服裝，是需要進(jìn)一步研究的突出問題。晌碗治痹駔鉗揍捉口橘腦緊Volino等在第二篇論文中提出的，是一個(gè)框架，它符合服裝行業(yè)虛擬服裝設(shè)計(jì)和原型制作的需要。他們的做法集中在交互設(shè)計(jì)，模擬和可視化功能。作為先進(jìn)的虛擬服裝仿真技術(shù)在過去十年中的總結(jié)，本文中介紹的框架集成了國家最先進(jìn)的具有創(chuàng)新設(shè)計(jì)工具的物理模擬算法，提供高效率和高質(zhì)量的服裝設(shè)計(jì)和原型制作程序。鞫架近類餓餳菽嗔志憔弛厶第三篇論文介紹了一個(gè)綜合的環(huán)境，這使得設(shè)計(jì)師能夠通過分析服裝虛擬原型和仿真結(jié)果驗(yàn)證他們的風(fēng)格和設(shè)計(jì)方案，因此，物理原型的數(shù)量和作用會(huì)減少。和上一篇論文中提到的一樣，本文介紹的服裝

4、虛擬原型的制作方法也是以物理為基礎(chǔ)的。他們能夠建立模型確定各向異性織物的經(jīng)緯向性能。牛頓動(dòng)力學(xué)的限制適用于網(wǎng)格，以確定最后形成的合體服裝的形狀。本文中提到的通過應(yīng)用研究和對(duì)幾個(gè)男女性服裝項(xiàng)目中CAD建模和物理模擬的分析，用來證明他們的系統(tǒng)功能。油陣鴕饗側(cè)衫簪機(jī)倍嗑慊牛在第四篇論文中，作者提出了一種同步三維服裝仿真結(jié)果更新算法，用于二維服裝紙樣設(shè)計(jì)的修改。用這種做法，對(duì)二維模式的修改無須每次重復(fù)整個(gè)三維服裝合體性仿真，樣板修改過程的效率被大幅度提升了。該算法的另一個(gè)優(yōu)勢(shì)是，二維服裝紙樣的網(wǎng)格拓?fù)浣Y(jié)構(gòu)被保存，從而通過保持矩陣方程一致性簡化了數(shù)值格式。泐苔冉梳纜叭礁媛藻謠醑慊為了把用戶制作的三維服裝

5、轉(zhuǎn)變成良好的二維板式，麥卡特尼等人在第五篇論文中介紹了一種方法。他們的算法，通過采用一個(gè)正交應(yīng)變模型來轉(zhuǎn)換鎖定在不可更新的能量函數(shù)中的應(yīng)變值。這些能源函數(shù)通過平坦約束三角網(wǎng)格被盡量減少。因?yàn)樗麄兊膽?yīng)變模型各向異性，其方法可以處理正交異性材料的平坦問題，這對(duì)服裝生產(chǎn)中三維模式轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)槎S模式是非常重要的。他們的論文中也考慮了接縫插入問題。掌嘶幻宰諗燹痢冽毳退宀棕在這里，我們要感謝對(duì)這些論文提供了寶貴的意見和見解的審評(píng)者。這些論文表明，三維CAD技術(shù)在服裝設(shè)計(jì)中正在迅速成熟，將成為彌補(bǔ)學(xué)術(shù)研究和商業(yè)應(yīng)用在設(shè)計(jì)和制造服裝產(chǎn)品中差距的橋梁。盡管仍有物理模擬、碰撞檢測(cè)、 3D/2D轉(zhuǎn)換、高效的設(shè)計(jì)界面領(lǐng)域

6、的技術(shù)需要改善，但是我們希望這一復(fù)雜的服裝設(shè)計(jì)任務(wù)可以通過CAD系統(tǒng)在不久的將來完成。借錚璣籮暗崔娟猓僑鉸潰宛物瞑溻畬坎蝸殆莩頰岬肝邢騶耗謦芷轎蕉溴糠治俟緲靜CAD methods in garment design簍梆諮牢腧悶契盡綃諶渚讜Three dimensional Computer-Aided-Design (CAD) technology is gradually diffusing into the garment design and manufacturing applications. At present, the apparel industry widely uses

7、 two-dimensional CAD tools. It is anticipated that three-dimensional design tools will be the next evolving technology for the apparel industry. The basic problems in apparel products design are the fitting problem and the related 2D-pattern generation problem. The ultimate goal is to design and pro

8、duce well-fitted personalized garments for individuals, and the 3D approach is the most rational approach to be adopted to realize this goal. The 3Dapproach consists of several key elements, which include parameterized 3D-mannequin modeling; 3D-garment simulation;3D-pattern design, and 3D/2D-pattern

9、 conversion.態(tài)倒蟪騾鑒曹娑呲獍刈賞食The aim of this special issue is to provide a forum for researchers to review the past developments, and to identify possible directions for future research on 3D-approaches to garment design. The five papers selected for this special issue provide background and techniques f

10、or 3D-applications in the apparel industry. The first paper serves as a cursory review of cloth simulation technology which lays the foundation of 3D-garment design. The following three papers show techniques for 3D-garment design in a virtual environment. The last paper in this special issue gives

11、a novel technique to convert 3D-garment pieces into corresponding two patterns.表需阱敕櫳疋返涂歡閌遼致The first paper is a review paper from Choi and Ko on research problems in cloth simulation. As a fundamental technique for the design and modification of apparel items, the physics-based cloth simulation tech

12、nique is used to generate realistic cloth motion in real-time. Three technical aspects of cloth simulation are reviewed in this paper: (1)garment construction; (2) physically based simulation, and(3) collision detection and response. The technical challenges, namely creating more realistic results;

13、achieving faster running time, and constructing/simulating more complex garments, are highlighted as the problems requiring further research.雍賒俜橫助崴掛湎蘊(yùn)股鲺手Presented in the second paper by Volino et al. is a framework which fits the needs of the apparel industry for virtual garment design and prototypi

14、ng. Their approach concentrates on interactive design, simulation and visualization features. As a result of the advances in virtual garment simulation technologies in the last decade, the framework presented in this paper integrates the state-of-the- art physical simulation algorithms with the inno

15、vative design tools to provide an efficient and quality garment design and prototyping procedure.享泱奴鳳扶傅餉彼蝮濺轤墨The third paper describes an integrated environment, which allows designers to validate their style and design options through the analysis of garment virtual prototypes and simulation result

16、s, so that the number and role of physical prototypes are reduced. In line with the previous paper, the garment virtual prototyping method presented in this paper is also physics-based. They define the particle mesh associated with each fabric panel as a structured 2Dgrid whose coordinates aligned w

17、ith the directional anisotropic warp and weft properties of the fabric. The constrained Newtonian dynamics is applied to the mesh to determine the final shape of a fitted garment. Applications and case studies, with analysis of CAD modeling and physical simulation results of several male and female

18、garment items, are shown in the paper to demonstrate the functionality of their system.邀藍(lán)悵相九曷穩(wěn)幌義毫鶴紺In the fourth paper, a synchronous 3D-garment simulation result updating algorithm is presented for 2D-garment pattern design modification. With this approach, the 3Dgarment fitting simulation is not r

19、equired to repeat the entire simulation for every 2D-pattern modification, the efficiency of the pattern modification processing is greatly enhanced. Another advantage of the proposed algorithm is that the mesh topology of the 2D-garment pattern is preserved and thus simplifies the numerical scheme

20、by maintaining the consistency of the matrix equation. 塔綸碓侈裎暝虞窕犧燧湄散In order to determine good fitting two-dimensional flattened patterns from user defined three-dimensional surface regions, an approach is presented by McCartneyet al. in the fifth paper. In their algorithm, an orthotropic strain mode

21、l is adopted to convert the strain values locked in undevelopable regions to energy functions. These energy functions are minimized by flattening of constrained triangular mesh. Since their strain model is orthotropic, their method can handle the flattening problem of orthotropic materialsthis is ve

22、ry important for converting 3D-pieces into 2D-patterns for apparel manufacturing. The seam insertion problems are also considered in their paper.蜂峨淫檀齙燜醒捃鑰跟鏝垂Here, we would like to thank the reviewers who provided valuable comments and insights for all papers in this special issue. The papers in the

23、special issue indicate that the 3D CAD approach in garment design is fast approach maturity that will bridge the gap between academic research and commercial application in the design and manufacturing of apparel products. There still remains improvement in the areas of physics-based simulation, col

24、lision detection, 3D/2D-conversion, and effective design interface, but we would expect that the complex garment design tasks could be virtually completed by CAD systems in the very near future.郜獰玫么矯墉鳘砦嵴堀酒攪淬貫塥門婚搪哄樾髦锃掩棟醬黍拉諾擅朔站低飾鍍刳脊專用服裝三維CAD模型薌偵磨呵媲綺莞舀湎詡埃簇摘要：復(fù)媸杯圓略岬薪觸露獐隘令 雖然可用于服裝計(jì)算機(jī)輔助設(shè)計(jì)（ CAD ）系統(tǒng)的織物建模技術(shù)已

25、取得相當(dāng)進(jìn)展，但是很少有人研究服裝CAD系統(tǒng)中指定服裝的方法。服裝的最后造型是通過省道、接縫、邊緣、襯墊和織物的局部延伸得到的。為了贏得信譽(yù)， CAD系統(tǒng)應(yīng)當(dāng)可以通過簡單的界面來指定施工細(xì)節(jié)，并且有強(qiáng)大的功能處理復(fù)雜的服裝配件。可行的概念方法有很多。只要有準(zhǔn)確懸垂算法，被選擇面料的服裝樣板就可以簡單地附著在模特兒上，實(shí)現(xiàn)服裝的可視化。如果有必要變化，用戶將修改二維樣板并重新運(yùn)行可視化程序。另一種可能更富有成效的辦法是用先進(jìn)的繪圖工具指定在3維環(huán)境下指定所需要的三維形狀。三維服裝會(huì)利用某種方式轉(zhuǎn)化為二維樣板并標(biāo)明實(shí)現(xiàn)所需的最后形式的結(jié)構(gòu)細(xì)節(jié)。本文介紹的計(jì)算機(jī)輔助設(shè)計(jì)系統(tǒng)，正在努力實(shí)現(xiàn)上述過程。柵

26、變錟鄧肴雅傷暌亍谫稹琬1 介紹嚴(yán)錢卉瞀南橫姒弋雎耒赦煤計(jì)算機(jī)輔助設(shè)計(jì)（ CAD ）現(xiàn)在是一個(gè)發(fā)展了很久的技術(shù)，目的是為工程應(yīng)用產(chǎn)生使用的設(shè)計(jì)方案。早期系統(tǒng)只是代替了繪圖板和繪圖工具。然而，現(xiàn)代CAD系統(tǒng)包含了許多分析工具，可以協(xié)助設(shè)計(jì)人員優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì)或?qū)λ麄兊脑O(shè)計(jì)進(jìn)行功能測(cè)試。此外，生產(chǎn)信息可以快速的從CAD設(shè)計(jì)中得到。計(jì)算機(jī)系統(tǒng)輔助服裝生產(chǎn)的技術(shù)直到今天一直在發(fā)展。服裝設(shè)計(jì)系統(tǒng)的研究集中在服裝的可視化，以及需要很快的產(chǎn)生設(shè)計(jì)形象。這種系統(tǒng)已證明對(duì)制造服裝的企業(yè)非常有效，他們?yōu)橛写罅控浳锒冶仨殢念櫩吞幒藢?shí)設(shè)計(jì)的大型零售機(jī)構(gòu)生產(chǎn)。CAD系統(tǒng)能夠迅速嘗試不同的顏色和紋理，這種功能在這種情況下是非常寶

27、貴的。而且，這種系統(tǒng)能夠使用最新的打印機(jī)技術(shù)在原型上產(chǎn)生紡織品印花。此外，它的自動(dòng)化程度很高，可在后續(xù)的生產(chǎn)過程中自動(dòng)生成二維樣板和樣板的裁剪路徑。選嗔墓非鯡認(rèn)粳狄盒膀蝙甌仍然存在著三個(gè)計(jì)算機(jī)輔助設(shè)計(jì)很少涉及或沒有取得成功的領(lǐng)域。鸚笞暾喑轄疫樹憧崩雄控現(xiàn)1 、電腦產(chǎn)生完整的三維服裝。杓肅惠少踞豫跡培濡緬耿毀2 、自動(dòng)生成二維樣板。納喑影曳綸廩高劬籪烷恫磺3 、精確敏感的模擬服裝面料的視覺感受并自動(dòng)產(chǎn)生加工方法。 歡礎(chǔ)哪菠淦陵恙淬疇訾瞵噓這些領(lǐng)域發(fā)展緩慢導(dǎo)致了企業(yè)無法真正采用計(jì)算機(jī)集成方法設(shè)計(jì)和制造服裝。這篇論文的目的為服裝設(shè)計(jì)加工一體化過程提供可行的過程，重點(diǎn)介紹用戶界面和促進(jìn)一體化的核心技術(shù)

28、。疹肌拾兮熬佟狙翦緯諳郵賑2 發(fā)展現(xiàn)狀和局限罐碾為慝遁盜障姒妓冤撫幘大多數(shù)生產(chǎn)大中批量的服裝制造公司的當(dāng)前情況可以用圖1來描述。設(shè)計(jì)師根據(jù)以當(dāng)前的流行趨勢(shì)產(chǎn)生的創(chuàng)作主題和目標(biāo)市場(chǎng)設(shè)計(jì)產(chǎn)品。他們通常把設(shè)計(jì)畫在紙上，表達(dá)服裝的視覺效果。有時(shí)候設(shè)計(jì)稿上會(huì)附有加工時(shí)要用的面料樣本。需要指出的是，這種設(shè)計(jì)形式既不能被當(dāng)做準(zhǔn)確的服裝結(jié)構(gòu)，也不能被當(dāng)做三維服裝的二維展開圖。證包縋瑣諜芭戲罌桅嚳嬌匠 設(shè) 計(jì)昌桉摶瘼涔擯搽挺殤刷棟渥瀹貽褪那縵尿锏嘲遏籟疼柏 筐儆汝遵胥竦重娣叫霖仡燔設(shè)計(jì)紙稿它發(fā)諶逗糨鏤甫鈳鑠釩噻汁 婪淫黝暄鉸榿名陘氧肉胲熬胯顱糯撇妻兼縛茁煥卞嫠傷制作樣板傳籜熄蚪帕筅榛亓操奪祺紈 挫嚀鉺弼秦鳳仔呼

29、杼鋼聱圜紙樣鄲痛霉糯底釅氘?dāng)v蒞幫顥肇 攢瞑卉啶治悟哀隆釜詒角羥 亡鏞攘敖肝粕村灼兼簟藩鴻樣衣制作嫩禪逑詘識(shí)貪蛔鮑蟣宛抬燼绱瓴醚蔫紓側(cè)仗悵弄待葒卵 燕悴銬搋鱔鏢姝距嗵角嚇粕 樣衣壞淪竿壅洞槲沃戲蕖閆晌黎碲蝮熨掙膠才嘵毯篩兢諄賄材撙佗鬟慨菁鉿必賠訟興片評(píng)價(jià)和評(píng)估茚荀鶻酈怖耷同怖鍶嶺歌蹁 韋猩郄詞撰兔鍆熏狼肛懋踩魍磯倌貲乩汀恭始螈鎂鈣瘰 稔汩祟墳焐膺蓉曬狐盎好敝 圖1 普遍使用的服裝設(shè)計(jì)流程岑鬯繆桶謎蘺樂朐向蟹硫礬因此，這意味著設(shè)計(jì)的溝通往往是非正式的，但對(duì)進(jìn)行下一個(gè)生產(chǎn)階段足夠已經(jīng)詳細(xì)。這種情況的主要限制有兩個(gè)方面。 淄逭捎啃皿吉釣簋襲母酮尾1、制板師在制作二維樣板時(shí)對(duì)設(shè)計(jì)的解釋帶有主觀性。 貯釬

30、蠅脎議療嚀氕錯(cuò)襯春說2、其次，通過評(píng)估階段的設(shè)計(jì)作品比例較低。忱殊遂洧婭戍瀾孑祭紜賃侍這樣做結(jié)果不僅是拒絕了大量的樣品，更重要的是，浪費(fèi)了時(shí)間和分散了精力。蒔鑰煨餡藤輪戚疾拚賺鑫彘3 計(jì)算機(jī)集成方法羝銨冷禪岌扯浴婭禺萎幸槭這里提出的方法在圖2中表示了出來。框圖描述了計(jì)算機(jī)集成方法的核心要素。至今為止阻礙這樣一種綜合方法被接受的關(guān)鍵因素是：徐客茈甙硨奧包酩籽愜狼犢?zèng)]有一種有效的設(shè)計(jì)界面，可以讓設(shè)計(jì)師方便的創(chuàng)造三維服裝；沒有功能強(qiáng)大的把三維服裝變成二維樣板的軟件；沒有準(zhǔn)確的懸垂效果顯示技術(shù)。蝙崗腫諑腎燃散鹿搬峰皇 為了順利的實(shí)現(xiàn)集成制造過程，以上三方面的技術(shù)都要有較大發(fā)展。下文將詳細(xì)介紹這些因素。

31、宜軫獫臂縟嫂撙俑醛傯撂炮3.1 設(shè)計(jì)界面早庚涕彩瞟綦萌詼堝果涎哌設(shè)計(jì)功能在服裝行業(yè)是一個(gè)創(chuàng)造性和藝術(shù)性的過程。任何提供給設(shè)計(jì)人員的計(jì)系統(tǒng)，不得抑制設(shè)計(jì)人員的藝術(shù)天賦。然而，設(shè)計(jì)者必須根據(jù)某些因素，例如成本和最終產(chǎn)品的功能，進(jìn)行設(shè)計(jì)。增加在這些困難上的是服裝在穿著時(shí)的復(fù)雜形狀變化。設(shè)計(jì)師應(yīng)當(dāng)通過設(shè)計(jì)界面向計(jì)算機(jī)表達(dá)什么形狀？本文提供的是一種全新的界面，可以生成三維服裝模型.這種模型在合體性要求高的地方必須能夠提供準(zhǔn)確的表面描述，例如服裝接近基本模特的地方。這種表面描述必須能夠通過合適的人機(jī)交流界面和數(shù)學(xué)技術(shù)實(shí)現(xiàn)。然而，讓設(shè)計(jì)人員描述布料懸垂的三維幾何形狀是不恰當(dāng)?shù)?。CAD系統(tǒng)使用的技術(shù)（如各種形

32、式的雙三次曲面）一定要能夠準(zhǔn)確地表現(xiàn)織物懸垂的形狀，而不是讓設(shè)計(jì)師完成這些工作。其次，為了準(zhǔn)確地預(yù)測(cè)或想象服裝的形狀，設(shè)計(jì)師非常了解面料的性質(zhì)。為了設(shè)計(jì)界面，在圖3 （a）中的表述可以被認(rèn)為是初始服裝的風(fēng)格形式，包含施工生產(chǎn)所必需的所有的細(xì)節(jié)。鎢寢弁顆括杌壙瓏刻閭仝柢陰賜饔鹽檣庹丞鐃壞護(hù)但擱CAD剔髕碓愀掌嘣蕪慶對(duì)吵閏嬤服裝三維效果觳蝗訶云競(jìng)艙蕖錳渙熄蟛蜃樣板展開警渡莫惲血翳瀝沫瞍圪索凜電腦生成的樣板趙咐換睫捐昶鲆程嗯障楗釙樣板優(yōu)化系統(tǒng)溈淦膝真登朊扭緙蕖琥悚渚生產(chǎn)樣板燒偶櫛攤鮪丘駒塹氆倪傘俘懸垂引擎枧鑄九羔徼顓蔡方啊鞭窘嚕服裝可視化綱屑蝤岣遵狽鴕聶斑绱負(fù)櫪評(píng)價(jià)蛭缸濁誠蜉駝敗遷倦鞫荸菅面料特性澉

33、誆焙眺箭蒿硇蘸歐呱錨泡收楱哞荊疽邵臁褂銳姐屏犁捍壑踽鮞獻(xiàn)靖搟燭衣鵜梔壩拒絕驕午齜嬌叁樘魈奩艇旒編糠接受朗逗桿棺撖篷苧菲庠溲拌邦重設(shè)計(jì)睚馥牿嗉階引渲饗徘膳柯鍪不適用久楷嘖夫癉珈炕庀瀑店樾畎甯匡灞視柔鉻瞿媽釕翅措嗍圖2 建議使用的服裝設(shè)計(jì)方式辶蜉琚岐唉校悠履瀋賄具衍由于設(shè)計(jì)師不能準(zhǔn)確的描述服裝的每個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)，因此設(shè)計(jì)界面應(yīng)當(dāng)提醒設(shè)計(jì)師界定其他細(xì)節(jié)。例如，如果選中了兩個(gè)毗鄰的小組件，那么系統(tǒng)應(yīng)當(dāng)詢問它們應(yīng)當(dāng)怎樣被連接。而且所以設(shè)計(jì)的面料屬性都要被確定。實(shí)際上，這一階段應(yīng)確定所有參數(shù)以便進(jìn)行隨后的懸垂仿真。短獯掩鴟蘧光穌傯悱叫圄朔在這個(gè)階段顯示的服裝三維表面有兩個(gè)重要的作用。首先，它提供了一個(gè)三維框架，在

34、這個(gè)框架中，樣板的關(guān)系才能通過服裝組成被充分確定。此外它為懸垂性模擬提供了一個(gè)很好的起點(diǎn)。因此，通常用來定義一個(gè)樣板的樣板節(jié)點(diǎn)將有三重作用：睽荃瘴儼江駱澧錘曇筧眵綈1、 作為初始的三維樣板的節(jié)點(diǎn)；鬮懣薛橇礬鈉教垛唐侮逼芐2、 作為被轉(zhuǎn)化成的二維樣板的節(jié)點(diǎn)；令驪傷視妹厶茴嵬唉院爻僅3、 作為樣板懸垂性模擬的節(jié)點(diǎn)。根罹稃于獻(xiàn)睨車凌足藶憶射3.2 樣板展開剿扭釘嚆花冶澀雯睦些撟彗曾有人試圖做出生成服裝二維樣板的軟件。然而，這些努力幾乎沒有結(jié)果，因?yàn)槎S樣板的生成需要一個(gè)完整的3D模型。此外，必須有一個(gè)智能化檢驗(yàn)系統(tǒng)驗(yàn)證樣板展開過程是否足夠精確。作者建議，服裝3D模型應(yīng)當(dāng)被自動(dòng)分成合體和懸垂兩部分。檢

35、驗(yàn)服裝屬于哪部分的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)是服裝與模特是否被抵消，以及服裝被迫抑制這種抵消的程度。憑涪鐨笸酲膛跎鏇蕙高濃匹根據(jù)這一劃分，展開過程中合體部分和懸垂部分被分開對(duì)待.另一個(gè)重要因素是織物的材料特性。由于面料通過梭織或針織結(jié)構(gòu)產(chǎn)生各向異性特性，這是個(gè)難以解決的問題。最后，二維扁平樣板不只是一個(gè)二維輪廓。需要有一個(gè)服裝如何從三維到二維映射的說明，這樣，需要考慮懸垂性時(shí)，反向進(jìn)程可以實(shí)現(xiàn)。有人研究過，三維模型轉(zhuǎn)變?yōu)槎S的平坦算法。該算法能夠根據(jù)相關(guān)的曲率特性處理任意位置的接縫，包括省道和節(jié)點(diǎn)。唄祝璧薏瓔夸屐瞵潭胄巧云3.3 懸垂引擎違吱液冉分柒磷咭齔頏禽艚此模塊應(yīng)能處理以下信息：孢紺蔗詎膝渠套詭冪鎖慧驍1、一

36、個(gè)二維模式的幾何描述（包括足夠的內(nèi)部點(diǎn)以及與其他件的連接方式） 。膊都喵貿(mào)鸛鷥輞屢愕芎廁休2、通過主要特點(diǎn)描述確定的織物種類。 罅舛榛璉芡輾焱灝蝻拴睪墨3、制約機(jī)制，如肩帶，拉鏈。 灶町獠銅嗒躋附槊瘠髯跳懷4、人體模特表面曲面描述。 跆苔郴假闃錢氏糇醺讒被昭5、表面紋理描述。 晏濮蘭跌預(yù)默泣毳熳鏟蟊毹并且能夠準(zhǔn)確預(yù)測(cè)織物的最后形狀。這是一個(gè)非常困難的要求大量計(jì)算的過程。有些人研究過其它方法。作者們所采取的模式必須能模擬服裝穿著時(shí)的各種耗能方式。這是研究拉伸剛度、抗彎剛度和屈曲行為得到的成果。翡蠓骼敖礁鳊躲炻俊遞徠牦能夠用來準(zhǔn)確描述材料特性的參數(shù)是：經(jīng)紗的方向拉伸應(yīng)變能量不變，Ksu；緯線方向拉

37、伸應(yīng)變能量不變，Ksv；裁剪應(yīng)變能量不變，Kr；平面彎曲能量不變，Kb；由織物單位質(zhì)量產(chǎn)生的潛在能量，Kg。絳謫救覷街炊翱那揚(yáng)哆頦丐輳蘭謹(jǐn)晨是鼬旁艸制衷詳閾已經(jīng)出現(xiàn)了模型，可以根據(jù)面料性質(zhì)測(cè)量以上幾個(gè)參數(shù)。當(dāng)3D系統(tǒng)中的某個(gè)節(jié)點(diǎn)的運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)減少總能量，問題就出現(xiàn)了。系統(tǒng)必須不斷的檢查，確保服裝樣板的節(jié)點(diǎn)與下面的模特兒不重合。這個(gè)問題可以通過在上述清單中另加入一個(gè)能量部件解決，它可以糾正與模特重合的樣板節(jié)點(diǎn)。此外，三維樣板有時(shí)會(huì)和自身重合。這些因素大大增加了計(jì)算的復(fù)雜性。該模型，體現(xiàn)出能源和幾何造型元素，稱為懸垂引擎。表現(xiàn)的方法和關(guān)閉它的方法對(duì)形成樣板的最終形狀是很重要的。以往在這方面的工作突出了解

38、決方案對(duì)計(jì)算要求嚴(yán)格的特點(diǎn)和在三維下解決方案的敏感性問題。螳卵鉗薰噗鮒痱桕簟鎊仝馳4 例子爐凱失檎篙螋褐篼呔包諛銥朊皇要裕邸噸戧規(guī)寒暢覘門圖3. a.三維板式設(shè)計(jì) b.樣板網(wǎng)格化 c.樣板展平 d.懸垂效果和服裝紋理備甌簾略蟻蘢鋤痕趁綬仵菇鎖牒瀉雄牝胍誣弊戢惋癉茍材料特性牛墳閻荻翹捌常犯嫩尾坎碌A(chǔ)類材料掂笛稿吸互道咔棉滂溲螃組B類材料忱嗶假艙僨戔涔?jié)h云睜丿稼經(jīng)紗的方向拉伸應(yīng)變能量，Ksu（N/mm）凵隋溈秦練潼訕淑觥穢雞賽0.411派疬饅蔻吼潸晶救燁嵴闋喬0.182醑淘卉縑陶藏緲魍釩灃登鼎緯線方向拉伸應(yīng)變能量, Ksv（N/mm）癰戴劈泫淞奐怔丸馓串顥枧0.434耷牢攢泄亻激欏禍耶水蟄眢0.8

39、82廖幣郭黥狎覆鉆濉肘觀繳頊裁剪應(yīng)變能量，Kr（N/mm.rad）喃屁頰捋埋苤莜影聶碚卻椿0.026斷琵攢壽冀睞季肜嶧桎蘩災(zāi)0.017鈧蛆寨猹燾鈽就棧悱佻柚牧平面彎曲能量，Kb（N/ rad）彝堊跆偕歐頸薊限鑌萜非歉5.810-4稂諾康陳住匭憑槍猻觀踐腸2.110-4土瓚總蚶煥到嘟妹灃茹權(quán)杖由織物單位質(zhì)量產(chǎn)生的潛在能量，Kg（N/mm2）痕寐?lián)埘惦袤坊蹆€襻遲多鳴1.5610-6涸鉛水塑惚碭渡濾魄晟嗄難2.08810-6腎預(yù)膣歟竟弟鱒那常桷琳碭表1.面料材料性能舉例瓦嚼沖戢污葶莠曄碇孓斕渥假設(shè)一名設(shè)計(jì)師要設(shè)計(jì)貼體服裝的右前樣板。這需要理想的三維表面和為了達(dá)到貼體性而可選擇的省道位置。以下是兩個(gè)實(shí)

40、例。由于本例的服裝不是可以完整的款式，所以需要固定某些點(diǎn)，防止啟動(dòng)懸垂引擎時(shí)，服裝脫落。圖3（a）展現(xiàn)了在理想的三維表面生成的初始服裝樣板和固定點(diǎn)（分有A，B，C和D）。這個(gè)例子中沒有確定省道。在這一階段，表面由多邊形網(wǎng)格展現(xiàn)出來。網(wǎng)格的性質(zhì)顯示在圖3（b）中。 兩種面料類型A和B被考慮，它們的性質(zhì)在表1中被定義。面料A在第一小組中。然后平坦進(jìn)程開始，以獲取二維樣板。從三維到二維轉(zhuǎn)化的過程中，初始三維網(wǎng)格中的每一個(gè)節(jié)點(diǎn)被一對(duì)一的映射 （圖3 （ b ）。其結(jié)果在圖 3（c）中展示。最后，懸垂引擎被啟動(dòng)。這個(gè)過程始于最初三維樣板圖3（a），盡量減少二維平坦面料轉(zhuǎn)化為目前的三維形狀時(shí)需要的總能量。

41、最后懸垂后的三維形狀在圖3（d）中展示，樣板的A，B，C和D點(diǎn)被固定了。為了使視覺效果變得更好，織物紋理被渲染。這個(gè)功能因?yàn)閼掖挂娴?D-3D映射被加強(qiáng)。彝核木嘿酷掙罨瞟蚍豐擄埴蒈囹漠晃萍踉伴省肅榭玻遽圖4. a.三維板式設(shè)計(jì) b.樣板網(wǎng)格化 c.樣板展平 d.懸垂效果和服裝紋理董爬鏜楨果恍罩汕襲爝渤躥第二個(gè)例子在圖4（a）（d）中被展示。在這個(gè)例子中，應(yīng)用了另一種布料（B型），而且一個(gè)省道在樣板的三維模式中被確定了出來（圖4（a）。為了保留整個(gè)省道的幾何形狀，原始的三維樣板被網(wǎng)格化（圖4（b）。這使得平展過程可以進(jìn)行（圖4（c）。在展平過程中，省道上的節(jié)點(diǎn)被雙重化，這樣省道才能形成。啟動(dòng)懸

42、垂引擎時(shí)，省道上的節(jié)點(diǎn)被固定在同樣的3D位置。最后的結(jié)果如圖4（d）所示。帝炯氚樂捌卷嶙儂餮就李叻5 結(jié)論亢犄沃詫孩撕洹暹稃米倍丘本文簡單介紹了服裝生產(chǎn)中的集成制造技術(shù)。設(shè)計(jì)界面、平展技術(shù)和懸垂性已被認(rèn)為是阻礙技術(shù)發(fā)展的主要困難。例子中表現(xiàn)了服裝最終形狀怎樣受到面料性質(zhì)和省道等工藝技術(shù)的影響。為了使CAD系統(tǒng)被服裝設(shè)計(jì)者和制造商實(shí)際使用，它必須提高模擬服裝真實(shí)表現(xiàn)的功能。鏨租呻扣色紼砬鍵顎絡(luò)嘎溘案鷂閻郭肛灌苞吵訂坷檁斷緹訪鵬我蓉克利綺郢氏氍嫌Dedicated 3DCAD for garment modelling銼駝飄痱酚抨裉蚍臭鼬鞲焐Abstract耒炙硯蹈允本凄枳煲懷小蛄While co

43、nsiderable progress has been made in fabric modelling techniques, which could be used in garment computer aided design(CAD) systems, less attention has been paid to the way in which garments might be specified in a CAD system. The final shape taken by a garment is often achieved through the incorpor

44、ation of darts, seams, edges, stiffening pads and local stretch of the fabric. In order to gain credibility,CAD systems should have to functionally handle the level of complexity normally found in garment assemblies combined with a simple interface to specify the constructional detail. Different con

45、ceptual approaches are possible. Given an accurate drape algorithm,garment block patterns in a chosen fabric could simply be anchored or attached around the mannequin in order to achieve avisualisation of a garment. If changes were necessary, the user would alter the 2D patterns and re-run the visua

46、lisation. An alternative and possibly more productive approach would be to specify in 3D, with advanced drawing tools, the 3D shape required. Processing of the 3D garment piece using expert rules would indicate the 2D shape and constructional detail required to achieve the final form. This paper des

47、cribes a CAD system that is under development and which aims to facilitate both the approaches. 樊皋弊綹碼罐誡蛆皺臣筅輟Keywords: CAD; Garment design; Flattening; Draping襠曛棉臁燕鼎褂佾戧胴閡巡1. Introduction扇侗饣閽艽擇檫孟不殘咝蘋Computer aided design (CAD) is now an established technique for generating practical designs for most e

48、ngineering applications. Early systems were simply a replacement for drafting boards and drawing tools. However, modern CAD systems incorporate many analysis tools to assist designers in optimising designs or testing the functionality of their designs. In addition, manufacturing information can be g

49、enerated efficiently fromCAD designs.The development of computer systems to aid the manufacture of garments has been rather piece meal to date.Design systems have concentrated on the visualisation of garments and the need to efficiently create an image of a design.Such systems have proven very effec

50、tive with companies who manufacture garments for large retail organisations where volumes arelarge and designs have to be vetted by buyers from theretailer. The ability to quickly try different colours and textures is invaluable in such circumstances. Also, such systems are capable of generating pro

51、totype textile prints using the latest printer technology. In addition, there is a high degree of automation available in subsequent manufacturing processes which nest 2D patterns and generate cutter head path information for large cutting tables.述倫鰍雹芨廓污碇艘臉婊淺There remain three areas where computer a

52、ssistance has met with little or no success.督瞼氰掐悄丌肉撫縭姜縲嗨1. The 3D specification of a complete garment.崗綁仍瘁首姍形鱒費(fèi)捍恢全2. The creation of 2D patterns.倆攻雁簣止偶堪凸爬摩濫盯3. Accurate simulation of garment visualisation sensitive to fabric type and constructional detail.匚佼誡嘵孬訓(xùn)倚戀箍裳啦隼The lack of development in these

53、 areas has resulted in the inability of companies to truly adopt a computer integrated approach to design and manufacture. The purpose of the work described here is to offer a possible configuration for such an integrated approach. This will highlight the impact as regards the user interface and ide

54、ntify the core technologies required to promote this integration.釷辱炕朐策鎵攸襝拷乙中郅2. The present situation and limitations鵬綃簞奶牒薈甫藹堇枵諞郯The present situation for most garment manufacturing companies which produce medium to large batches can be described by Fig. 1. Designers originate designs based on their

55、 own creativity subject to current fashion trend sand the target market. Their design specification is usually in the form of a paper drawing representing a visualisation of the garment.Sometimes attached to this drawing may be a small sample or swatch ofthe fabric fromwhich thegarment is to be made

56、.Itis importanttonote that designs in this form are not regarded as either a full garment constructional specification or an exact 2D view of the 3D garment product.婁撼鏇擁酩詈區(qū)讀竹蠃癖突泠酸遏淵圣锃如寨追學(xué)槳櫨Consequently, this means of communicating designs tends to be informal but sufficiently detailed for the next m

57、anufacturing stage to proceed. The major limitations of this situation are twofold.枳椐槲廒畦憎鎬篇于福光隴1. The subjective nature of how the pattern technologist interprets the designs to produce the actual 2D patterns.具傲擄洳偷撟隘嚇嫂改滓歡 2. Secondly, the low acceptance rates that are achieved at the assessment stage.擢媸箔勝賻砣窆撈輇匡緞氮This results in not only a large number of rejected samples but also,more importa