針織完全教程

1、OI Quality Training Course Contents Circular Knitted Fabrics A. Fabrics Made with a Single Set of Needles (Single Knits) i. Single Jersey - Single Jersey with Elastane - Pique - Lacoste - Baby French Terry - Jacquard ii Terry iii. French Terry B. Fabrics Made on Two Needle Beds (Double Knits) i. Int

2、erlock ii. Doubled Knitted Fabrics iii. Double Knitted - Jacquard iv RibShaft Weaving: Schematic梭梭(平平)織法簡圖織法簡圖Warping Circular Knitting Machine大筒圓編大筒圓編針針織機(jī)織機(jī)Circular Knitting Machine大筒圓編大筒圓編針針織機(jī)織機(jī)彈力單面布 Single Jersey with Elastane單面四角網(wǎng)眼布 Piqu單面六角網(wǎng)眼布 Lacoste單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry 單面布提花 Jacquard正包毛巾

3、布Reverse Plaiting Terry反包毛巾布/ 天鵝絨 Velour毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Fleece毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared)搖粒布 Anti pilling polar fleece單刷單搖 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling雙刷單搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilli

4、ng雙刷雙搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling單面布SingleJersey 毛巾布 Terry毛圈布FrenchTerry斜紋毛圈布 Twill French Terry拉毛布 Fleece棉毛布(雙羅紋組織)Interlock雙面組織布Double Knitted Fabrics雙面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard羅紋布 Rib雙面布網(wǎng)眼 Double Knitted -Piqu健康布 (棉蓋滌, 吸濕快干) Healthy Fabric豬皮布 Pig Skin雙面紗卡布 Sucker法式羅紋布 F

5、rench Rib羅紋 Rib 11 羅紋 Rib 22花式羅紋 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22)提花羅紋 (如 用結(jié)構(gòu)來提花) Rib Jacquard移圈羅紋 Rib Pointelle 針織針織Knitted Fabrics經(jīng)編經(jīng)編WarpKnittedFabrics緯編緯編WeftKnittedFabrics 單面布系列Fabricsmade with a single set of needles (Single Knits) 雙面布系列Fabricsmade on two needle beds(Double Knits)交叉毛圈布 Cross French Terry

6、(Mini French Terry)Classification of Knitted Fabrics 針織分類針織分類Definition after ISO 7839: 1984Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops, formed from a single yarn or from many.They are classified into weft knitted and warp knitted fabrics.Characteristics 特性特性May be made from a single yarn. (可用單

7、支紗織成可用單支紗織成)The yarn is fed crosswise to the length of the fabric. (橫向織法橫向織法)Can be unravelled (會(huì)脫散會(huì)脫散); may ladder. (呈梯呈梯狀狀)Knitting needles can work sequentially or all together. (所有的針可按順序或同時(shí)進(jìn)行編織所有的針可按順序或同時(shí)進(jìn)行編織)Characteristics 特性特性Requires a full warp sheet. (需要整片經(jīng)面需要整片經(jīng)面)The loop-forming yarns ar

8、e fed in the direction of the length of the fabric. (直向織法直向織法)Can not be unravelled, usually does not ladder. (不會(huì)脫散不會(huì)脫散,不呈梯狀不呈梯狀)Knitting needles always work together as a unit. (所有的針同時(shí)進(jìn)行編織所有的針同時(shí)進(jìn)行編織)緯編緯編經(jīng)編經(jīng)編針織布針織布Production一根紗在緯向的每一根一根紗在緯向的每一根針針上成圈上成圈 Sequential loop formation on a flat machineSequ

9、ential needles:Machines can be flat or circular. Needles are usually of the latch type. (機(jī)臺(tái)可分平編和圓編機(jī)臺(tái)可分平編和圓編)一根紗在經(jīng)向相鄰的幾根針上成圈一根紗在經(jīng)向相鄰的幾根針上成圈Loop formation on a warp knitting machineWarp knitting:Warp knitting uses one or more warp sheets. Each yarn is looped around a needle and the needles are all mov

10、ed together. (每一支紗在一根針上成圈每一支紗在一根針上成圈,所有所有的針同時(shí)進(jìn)行工作的針同時(shí)進(jìn)行工作)Weft Knitted FabricsWarp Knitted Fabrics緯編緯編經(jīng)編經(jīng)編Latch NeedlesNeedles and Sinker for Single Knitting Machine單單面面針織機(jī)之針和沉降片針織機(jī)之針和沉降片Needles for Double Knitting Machine雙雙面面針織機(jī)之針針織機(jī)之針單面針織機(jī)單面針織機(jī) Single Knitting Machine雙面針織機(jī)雙面針織機(jī) Double Knitting Mac

11、hine中間空心中間空心中間實(shí)心中間實(shí)心Single & Double Knitting Machines單單面針面針織織機(jī)平均一天機(jī)平均一天24小時(shí)的產(chǎn)量約為小時(shí)的產(chǎn)量約為250 500 Kg / 布布雙面針雙面針織織機(jī)平均一天機(jī)平均一天24小時(shí)的產(chǎn)量約為小時(shí)的產(chǎn)量約為250 Kg / 布布依布種及紗的粗細(xì)不同產(chǎn)能不同依布種及紗的粗細(xì)不同產(chǎn)能不同, 紗越細(xì)產(chǎn)能越低紗越細(xì)產(chǎn)能越低, 紗越粗產(chǎn)能越高紗越粗產(chǎn)能越高Single Knitting Machine單面針織機(jī)鳥瞰圖單面針織機(jī)鳥瞰圖Loop Formation 起針起針 挺針挺針 退圈退圈 墊紗墊紗 / 彎紗彎紗 脫圈脫圈 / 成圈成圈L

12、atch NeedlesThe Intermeshing of LoopsHead (the needle loop), two legs, and two feet. The feet joining two adjacent loops form the sinker loop. Fabric is formed by intermeshing loops. Each loop has four intermeshing points in two pairs. The legs within a pair must always intermesh in the same sense;

13、both legs lying either under or over the head of the preceding loop. The upper pair may intermesh in the opposite sense to the lower pair, depending on the construction.Loop characteristics網(wǎng)狀交織結(jié)合點(diǎn)網(wǎng)狀交織結(jié)合點(diǎn)Face and Back of Knitted Loops (針織布的正反面針織布的正反面)The lower pair of meshing points determine whether

14、 the loop is a face loop or a back loop.A back loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a direction away from the viewer: the legs of the loop lie under the head of the preceding loop.A face loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a direction to

15、wards the viewer: the legs of the loop lie over the head of the preceding loop.Back loop反面成圈反面成圈Face loop正面成柱正面成柱圈圈Head柱柱LegCourses and Wales緯向和經(jīng)向緯向和經(jīng)向 A course is a row of loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle.A wale is a column of loops produced by the same needle on su

16、ccessive knitting cycles.A course緯向緯向A wale經(jīng)向經(jīng)向Basic Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics針織布的基本組織針織布的基本組織 1. Knit 成圈成圈 2. Tuck 集集圈圈*3. Miss (Float) 不不成圈成圈 如如 網(wǎng)眼布網(wǎng)眼布 Piqu 如如 提花布提花布 Jacquard* 吃紗不成圈謂之集圈吃紗不成圈謂之集圈. 一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈, 二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈, 鉤中會(huì)出現(xiàn)三根紗鉤中會(huì)出現(xiàn)三根紗,一根為一根為底紗底紗, 加上二次集圈加上二

17、次集圈, 等於有三根紗等於有三根紗.如如 單面針織布單面針織布 Single JerseyTuck and Float (Miss) LoopsA tuck stitch comprises a held loop and a tuck loop, both intermeshed in the same course. (由成圈與集圈組成由成圈與集圈組成 )Held loop: a loop pulled through the loop of the previous course and retained by the needle over one or more courses. (

18、 成圈成圈 )Tuck loop: a length of yarn received by a needle but not pulled through the loop of the previous course. (一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈, 掛在下一路的線圈上掛在下一路的線圈上 )Float (miss) loop: a length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wale. ( 一根紗

19、不與緊鄰的一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結(jié)合縱向紗圈相結(jié)合, 而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結(jié)合而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結(jié)合. )A tuck stitchA float (or miss) loopA tuck loop 集集圈圈不不成圈成圈Loop Formation 起針起針 挺針挺針 退圈退圈 墊紗墊紗 / 彎紗彎紗 脫圈脫圈 / 成圈成圈Latch NeedlesNeedle starts to ascendNeedle ascends & crosseshorizontal edge of the machine Loop descendsYarn is fed onto needle, t

20、hen latch closes and needle descendsLoop is therefore formedPlain, Single JerseyThis structure is made with only a single set of needles. It is called single face, plain or single jersey.(Jersey is a general name for knitted fabrics. It is not restricted to any particular structure. (單面針織布是由一套針織成的單面

21、針織布是由一套針織成的)The two sides of the fabric have a different appearance. One side shows only face loops, the other side only back loops. (正面呈現(xiàn)柱狀正面呈現(xiàn)柱狀,反面呈現(xiàn)弧圈反面呈現(xiàn)弧圈)It has relatively low extensibility in the width and tends to curl at the edges. (單面針織布的橫向延展性不大單面針織布的橫向延展性不大,布邊趨向卷曲布邊趨向卷曲)Plain, facebackpro

22、ductionCross-tuck (Piqu)交叉集圈交叉集圈Piqu-style relief patterning can be made on single or double jersey base structures. The single jersey base is more common because it is lighter weight. The pattern is formed by alternating plain and tuck loops within one course and between one course and another. (Pi

23、qu 布可用單布可用單針機(jī)針機(jī)或雙或雙針機(jī)針機(jī)織出織出,為求紡織品重量輕為求紡織品重量輕. 一般多織一般多織成成單面單面布布. 在緯向中在緯向中可集圈與成圈交可集圈與成圈交替替出現(xiàn)出現(xiàn). 雙面布的雙面布的piqu較單面布的較單面布的piqu柔軟柔軟)Cross-tuck (pique), facebackInlay (Loopback) - Baby French Terry 鑲嵌結(jié)構(gòu)鑲嵌結(jié)構(gòu) An extra (inlay) yarn is floated on the technical back, tucking at regular intervals. Usually the inl

24、ay yarn is much coarser than the ground yarn. These fabrics have a fine face and a bulky looped back which is often brushed or raised.(多一根粗紗鑲嵌在織物的反面多一根粗紗鑲嵌在織物的反面,可達(dá)到正面組織平滑可達(dá)到正面組織平滑,反面組織粗糙反面組織粗糙. 鑲嵌的紗可懸弧在鑲嵌的紗可懸弧在表面或表面或可可經(jīng)刷毛加工經(jīng)刷毛加工, 提高了織物的厚度和保暖性提高了織物的厚度和保暖性.)Inlay or loopback, schematicInlay or loopba

25、ck, facebackJacquard提花提花布布When a color is not required on the face, the yarn floats on the back of the fabric. A wide range of designs can be created . The fabric is not very extensible, because of the large number of floats. Applications include fashion pullovers and waistcoats.(當(dāng)色紗不希望在提花當(dāng)色紗不希望在提花布

26、的布的正面呈現(xiàn)時(shí)正面呈現(xiàn)時(shí),可隱藏浮出在反面可隱藏浮出在反面. 其其設(shè)計(jì)可多樣化設(shè)計(jì)可多樣化,織紋不具好織紋不具好的延展性的延展性,因?yàn)榉疵姹桓〕龅纳喒蠢p住因?yàn)榉疵姹桓〕龅纳喒蠢p住)Jacquard, schematicJacquard, backJacquard, facePlush or Terry 毛巾布毛巾布Plush or knitted terry fabric is made by including (plating) an extra yarn which is made to form extended sinker loops. The plated yarn can

27、 be knitted at every needle or on selected needles to form a pattern.(毛巾布是多加一根紗織出的毛巾布是多加一根紗織出的,在反面造成圈狀的效果在反面造成圈狀的效果,可在每一根針上成圈可在每一根針上成圈,也可在選擇也可在選擇的針上成圈的針上成圈,造成不同的效果造成不同的效果)Cut plush, or knitted velour is made by cutting the plated yarn loops. The fabric surface then resembles velvet (velour). (成圈后可剪斷

28、而成天鵝絨織品成圈后可剪斷而成天鵝絨織品)Plush or terry, schematic反面形成毛圈反面形成毛圈 Plush or terryCut plush (velour)毛圈被切斷毛圈被切斷謂之天鵝絨謂之天鵝絨 毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布正包毛巾布正包毛巾布Reverse Plaiting Terry反包毛巾布反包毛巾布Velour (天鵝絨天鵝絨)面面 Face底底 Back線圈線圈Loop面面 Face 底底 Back線圈線圈Loop面面與與底底的線圈紗種的線圈紗種相同相同 (不剪線圈不剪線圈)Yarns of face and back are same,

29、loop wont be cut面面與與底底的線圈紗種不同的線圈紗種不同,底底的線圈剪后的線圈剪后,面的組織不受影響面的組織不受影響Different yarns between face and back, loop will be cut so that the structure of face wont be affectedTwo Types of Terry FabricsRib Fabric羅紋布羅紋布Rib fabrics are made on two needle beds with the needles in a staggered formation. The loo

30、ps are drawn in opposite directions so that face and back loops alternate in each course. Both sides of the fabric show only the face loops. The back loops are exposed only when the fabric is extended in the width direction. Rib fabrics are very extensible in the width. Applications include pullover

31、s, waistcoats, underwear, socks.(羅紋布是由兩套針交叉織出的羅紋布是由兩套針交叉織出的,它們的它們的圈圈形形成上下交叉排列成上下交叉排列,兩面都呈現(xiàn)柱狀兩面都呈現(xiàn)柱狀,反面弧圈反面弧圈只有在拉開橫只有在拉開橫向向才會(huì)出現(xiàn)才會(huì)出現(xiàn),羅紋布在橫羅紋布在橫向向延展性佳延展性佳.)Rib fabricproduction2x2 Rib, Broad Ribs羅紋羅紋A wide range of rib fabrics can be produced, depending on the set-out of the needles. The most popular i

32、s 2x2 rib which is made by taking every third needle out of action in each needle bed.(羅紋的種類千變?nèi)f化羅紋的種類千變?nèi)f化, 最最普遍普遍的是的是2上上2下羅紋下羅紋,每隔兩針變化一次每隔兩針變化一次)The two sides of the 2x2 rib fabric look the same. If the fabric is stretched in the width, the two rib loops are exposed between the two face loops. It is

33、 very elastic in the width direction.(2上上2下羅紋正反兩面看起來一樣下羅紋正反兩面看起來一樣,在橫向在橫向具有非常好的具有非常好的伸展伸展性性)2x2 ribInterlock棉毛布棉毛布(雙羅紋組織雙羅紋組織)Interlock is made on two needle beds in which the needles are directly opposed an work alternately.(棉毛布是由兩套針織出來的棉毛布是由兩套針織出來的,正反各一套羅紋組織在中間被鎖住正反各一套羅紋組織在中間被鎖住)It takes two cours

34、es to make one row of loops on the face and back.Both side show only face loops and look identical. The fabric is extensible, but not very elastic. (棉毛布正反兩面都呈現(xiàn)相同的柱狀棉毛布正反兩面都呈現(xiàn)相同的柱狀,織紋具有延展性但缺乏很好的彈性織紋具有延展性但缺乏很好的彈性)InterlockproductionDouble Piqu雙面組織雙面組織 Piqu布布Double piqu is made on rib machines by a sel

35、ection of knitted loops and floats. The floats greatly reduce the width extensibility.(羅紋機(jī)可以織出雙面組織羅紋機(jī)可以織出雙面組織 piqu布布,因?yàn)橛靡驗(yàn)橛?float 的織法的織法,所以大大減少了織品本身橫向所以大大減少了織品本身橫向的延展性的延展性. 雙面布的雙面布的piqu較單面布的較單面布的piqu柔軟柔軟)Double piqu, facebackRib Jacquard羅紋提花羅紋提花In double jersey jacquard machines, the needles in the

36、two needle beds (cylinder and dial) can be selected either to knit or miss. (運(yùn)用雙針織提花機(jī)運(yùn)用雙針織提花機(jī),可以選用成圈或不成圈兩種織法而成可以選用成圈或不成圈兩種織法而成.)Jacquard, facebackProductionBasic CharacteristicsApplicationsWovenTwo sets of yarns, warp and weft (length and width), interlaced at right angles. (兩組紗兩組紗即即經(jīng)紗與經(jīng)紗與緯紗在直向與橫向緯紗

37、在直向與橫向交錯(cuò)成直角的結(jié)果交錯(cuò)成直角的結(jié)果)firm,stable,dense,low extensibility and elasticity,cut edges will fray. (牢固的牢固的,穩(wěn)定的穩(wěn)定的,密密集的集的,延展延展性性低低,彈彈性低性低,切邊切邊後後會(huì)散會(huì)散開開)jackets and coats,suits, costumes, dresses, shirts and blouses, linings and interlinings, bed clothes, table cloths, household textiles,drapes and coverin

38、gs.Basic Characteristics & Applications of Woven Fabrics梭梭(平平)織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用ProductionBasic CharacteristicsApplicationsWeft knitsAt least one yarn running cross-wise and forming rows of loops (courses). The loops on each row are intermeshed with loops on the previous row. (至少一根紗橫向至少一根紗橫向地與前排已形

39、成的地與前排已形成的圈互相結(jié)合而成圈互相結(jié)合而成)Soft,supple, voluminous, very extensible and elastic,crease resistant, will ladder. (軟的軟的,柔順的柔順的,蓬松蓬松的的,具有延展性和具有延展性和彈性彈性. 防皺防皺,上下組上下組織結(jié)構(gòu)呈梯狀織結(jié)構(gòu)呈梯狀)Underwear, nightwear, baby wear, socks and stockings, pullovers, cardigans, caps and scarves, sports and leisure wear.Basic Chara

40、cteristics & Applications of Weft Knits緯編針織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用緯編針織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用ProductionBasic CharacteristicsApplicationsWarp knitsAt least one warp sheet is formed into lengthwise columns of loops, with columns connected laterally in a ziqzag fashion.( 至少有一片經(jīng)紗至少有一片經(jīng)紗面被面被織織成縱向圈柱成縱向圈柱,與鄰與鄰近近的圈柱形的圈柱形成鋸齒狀成鋸齒狀)Firm,

41、stable, smooth,moderate extensibility and elasticity, crease resistant, will not ladder. (堅(jiān)固的堅(jiān)固的,穩(wěn)定的穩(wěn)定的,平平滑的滑的,有適度延展有適度延展性和彈性性和彈性. 防皺防皺,不不呈階梯狀呈階梯狀)Lingerie, lace, net, trimmings, elastic linings, swimwear, sportswear, foundation garments, curtains, bed clothes, industrial textiles.Basic Characterist

42、ics & Applications of Warp Knits經(jīng)編針織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用經(jīng)編針織布的基本特性與應(yīng)用彈力單面布 Single Jersey with Elastane單面四角網(wǎng)眼布 Piqu單面六角網(wǎng)眼布 Lacoste單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry 單面布提花 Jacquard正包毛巾布Reverse Plaiting Terry反包毛巾布/ 天鵝絨 Velour毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Fleece毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combe

43、d & sheared)搖粒布 Anti pilling polar fleece單刷單搖 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling雙刷單搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling雙刷雙搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling單面布SingleJersey 毛巾布 Terry毛圈布FrenchTerry斜紋毛圈布 Twill French Terry交叉毛圈布 Cross French

44、Terry (Mini French Terry)拉毛布 Fleece棉毛布(雙羅紋組織)Interlock雙面組織布Double Knitted Fabrics雙面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard羅紋布 Rib雙面布網(wǎng)眼 Double Knitted -Piqu健康布 (棉蓋滌, 吸濕快干) Healthy Fabric豬皮布 Pig Skin雙面紗卡布 Sucker法式羅紋布 French Rib羅紋 Rib 11 羅紋 Rib 22花式羅紋 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22)提花羅紋 (如 用結(jié)構(gòu)來提花) Rib Jacquard移圈羅紋 Rib Poi

45、ntelle針織針織Knitted Fabrics經(jīng)編經(jīng)編WarpKnittedFabrics緯編緯編WeftKnittedFabrics 單面布系列Fabricsmade with a single set of needles (Single Knits) 雙面布系列Fabricsmade on two needle beds(Double Knits)彈力單面布 Single Jersey with Elastane單面四角網(wǎng)眼布 Piqu單面六角網(wǎng)眼布 Lacoste單面四段魚鱗布 Baby French Terry 單面布提花 Jacquard正包毛巾布Reverse Plaitin

46、g Terry反包毛巾布/ 天鵝絨 Velour毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush螞蟻刷毛 Buckly Fleece毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard雙面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared)搖粒布 Anti pilling polar fleece單刷單搖 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling雙刷單搖 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling雙刷雙搖 Both side

47、 brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling單面布SingleJersey 毛巾布 Terry毛圈布FrenchTerry斜紋毛圈布 Twill French Terry拉毛布 Fleece棉毛布(雙羅紋組織)Interlock雙面組織布Double Knitted Fabrics雙面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard羅紋布 Rib雙面布網(wǎng)眼 Double Knitted -Piqu健康布 (棉蓋滌, 吸濕快干) Healthy Fabric豬皮布 Pig Skin雙面紗卡布 Sucker法式羅紋布 French Rib羅紋 Rib 11 羅紋 Rib 22花式羅紋 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22)提花羅紋 (如 用結(jié)構(gòu)來提花) Rib Jacquard移圈羅紋 Ri