針織學(xué)(雙語)課件Chapter4(PPT 51頁)

1、Chapter 4The four primary base weft knitted structures1第1頁，共51頁。4.1 Introduction 引言Four primary structuresPlain 緯平針Rib 羅紋Interlock 雙羅紋,棉毛Purl 雙反面2第2頁，共51頁。4.1 Introduction 引言Four machinesSingle-jersey machines 單面機(jī)Rib machines 羅紋機(jī)Interlock machines 雙羅紋機(jī),棉毛機(jī)Purl machines 雙反面機(jī)3第3頁，共51頁。4.2 Plain struct

2、ure 緯平針組織IntroductionHosiery 長襪Fully fashioned knitwear 全成形針織品Single-jersey fabrics 單面針織物Used in the follow products4第4頁，共51頁。IntroductionTechnical faceSmoothHaving the appearance of columns of Vs in wales.5第5頁，共51頁。IntroductionTechnical backHaving the appearance of columns of interlocking semi-circ

3、les.6第6頁，共51頁。IntroductionThe propertiesUnrove 橫向脫散Laddering 縱向脫散7第7頁，共51頁。IntroductionThe propertiescurl/卷邊stretching/拉伸8第8頁，共51頁。IntroductionThe properties3-dimensional structure9第9頁，共51頁。4.2.1 Production of single-jersey fabric/單面針織物 on a circular latch needle machine/舌針圓機(jī)Cone 紗筒Overhead bobbin s

4、tand 機(jī)頂紗架Free-standing creel 落地紗架Winding-down mechanism 牽拉卷取機(jī)構(gòu)10第10頁，共51頁。Compared with the rib machineSimpler and more economicalMore feedersHigher running speedsKnitting a wider range of yarn counts11第11頁，共51頁。4.2.1.1 The knitting head 編織機(jī)構(gòu)Yarn feeder guide /導(dǎo)紗器Latch needle /舌針Holding-down sinker

5、/握持沉降片Needle cylinder /針筒Cylinder driving wheel /針筒托盤Cylinder driving gear /針筒傳動齒輪 Sinker-operating cams /沉降片三角 Sinker cam-cap /沉降片三角座12第12頁，共51頁。9.Sinker trick ring /沉降片圓環(huán)10.Needle-retaining spring /箍簧11.Needle-operating cams /織針三角12.Cam-box /三角座13.Cam-plate /三角底板14.Head plate /針筒底盤15.Cylinder driv

6、ing pinion/小齒輪 attached to the main drive shaft/主傳動軸13第13頁，共51頁。4.2.1.2 The knitting action 成圈過程Rest positionClearing Yarn feedingKnock-overHolding-down14第14頁，共51頁。4.2.1.3 The cam system 三角系統(tǒng)Clearing cam /退圈三角Stitch cam /彎紗三角,成圈三角Upthrow cam /回針三角6.Guard cam /護(hù)針三角Return cam /回針三角The needle cam race

7、針三角軌道15第15頁，共51頁。Race cam /平軌道三角Sinker-withdrawing cam /沉降片挺出三角Sinker-return cam /沉降片回退三角The sinker cam race 沉降片三角軌道16第16頁，共51頁。4.2.1.4 Sinker timing 沉降片對位Push point: The most forward position of the sinker during the knitting cycle. Sinker timing: The relationship between the push point and the nee

8、dles. 17第17頁，共51頁。4.3 Rib structure 羅紋組織The simplest rib fabric is 11 rib.18第18頁，共51頁。Characteristics of ribHas a vertical cord/凸條 appearanceMore expensive to produce than plainBe elastic, form-fitting/適體, and retain warmth /保暖better than plain Requires finer yarn than a similar gauge/機(jī)號 plain machi

9、ne19第19頁，共51頁。Properties of 11 ribHas the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides without stretchRelaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its knitting width20第20頁，共51頁。Properties of 11 ribLies flat without curlCan be unroved from the end knitted last Cannot be unrove

10、d from the end knitted first21第21頁，共51頁。Suitable for the extremities of articles:Tops of socks 襪口Cuffs of sleeves 袖口Borders of garments 下擺Stolling and strapping for cardigans/開衫毛衫22第22頁，共51頁。4.3.1 Rib set-outs 羅紋配置Single or simple ribs 窄羅紋Broad ribs 寬羅紋21, 31, etc63, 32, etc23第23頁，共51頁。Swiss rib 瑞士羅

11、紋Skeleton 11 rib 2隔1抽針羅紋24第24頁，共51頁。English rib 英式羅紋25第25頁，共51頁。4.3.2 The knitting action of the circular rib machine/羅紋圓機(jī)成圈過程Yarn feeding 墊紗Knocking-over 脫圈Clearing 退圈26第26頁，共51頁。4.3.3 Needle timing 針的對位It is the relationship between the loop-forming positions/成圈位置 of the dial and cylinder needles.

12、27第27頁，共51頁。Synchronized timing 同步成圈Also know as point, jacquard and 22 timingHigh tension during loop formation28第28頁，共51頁。Delayed timing 滯后成圈Also called rib or interlock timingFabric is tighter and has better rigidityRib jacquard or broad ribs cannot be produced in this way29第29頁，共51頁。Advanced tim

13、ing 超前成圈Be sometimes used in the production of figured ripple double-jersey fabrics/花式波紋羅紋組織.30第30頁，共51頁。4.4 Interlock structure 雙羅紋(棉毛)組織 It has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides. The wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.31第31頁，共51頁。characteri

14、sticsIt lies flat without curlRelaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted widthNot unrove from the end knitted firstThicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gaugeRequires a finer, better, more expensive yarn32第32頁，共51頁。4.4.1 Production of interlock fabric 雙羅紋組織的編織A

15、n interlock machine must have the following:Interlock gating 雙羅紋配置Two separate cam systems in each bedNeedles set out alternately33第33頁，共51頁。Needles of interlock machine :Long needles 長針（低踵針）Short needles 短針（高踵針）34第34頁，共51頁。4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例The cylinder cam system :A

16、 clearing cam 退圈三角B stitch cam 成圈三角C guard cam 護(hù)針三角D upthrow cam 回針三角E,F guard cam 護(hù)針三角G,H guide cam 導(dǎo)針三角35第35頁，共51頁。The dial cam system :1 raising cam 起針三角2,3 dial knock-over cam 針盤脫圈三角4 guard cam 護(hù)針三角5 auxiliary knock-over cam 輔助脫圈三角6,7 guide cam 導(dǎo)針三角8 swing type clearing cam 擺動退圈三角4.4.2 Example o

17、f an interlock cam system 雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例36第36頁，共51頁。4.5 Purl structure 雙反面組織Purl structures can be achieved with double-ended latch needles/雙頭舌針 or by rib loop transfer/羅紋移圈 from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking/針床橫移.37第37頁，共51頁。 The tricks/針槽 are opposite to each other and in the s

18、ame plane. So the single set of purl needles/雙頭舌針 can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed.38第38頁，共51頁。Characteristics of 11 purlLateral stretch/橫向拉伸 is equal to plainLength-wise elasticity/縱向彈性 is almost doubleCan be unroved from both endsWhen relaxed, it is twice as thick as plai

19、n39第39頁，共51頁。Another simple purlMoss stitch 桂花針Basket purls 席紋組織40第40頁，共51頁。Machines for purl structureFlat bed purls 雙反面橫機(jī) -no longer builtCircular purls (double cylinder machines) 雙針筒圓機(jī)Electronically-controlled V-bed rib machines 電腦橫機(jī)41第41頁，共51頁。Engagement/嚙合 of the head of the receiving slider/接針

20、導(dǎo)針片 with the needle hook/針鉤4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動42第42頁，共51頁。Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片 to pivot outwards from the trick/針槽 4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動43第43頁，共51頁。Sufficient free space

21、to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks 44第44頁，共51頁。A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle45第45頁，共51頁。4.5.2 The use of dividing cams 分針三角的應(yīng)用The principle of the dividing cam operation is

22、that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片.46第46頁，共51頁。The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片.47第47頁，共51頁。The delivering slider (D) advances wit