紡織專業(yè)英語部分課文英漢對(duì)照翻譯

Ifthefabricformingsystemisweavingorwarpknitting,someoralloftheyarnsformingthefabricarepresentedinsheetform.Itisnecessarythereforetoremovetheyarnfromthewindingpackageandarrangethedesirednumberonapackagecalledabeam.Theyarnsmustbeparallelandunderuniformtension.This,then,isthepurposeofwar.Beforethinkingaboutwindingaspecifiednumberofyarnsonabeam,considertheproblemofpositioningthepackagefromwhichtheyarnistakeninsuchamannersoastofacilitatetheremovalofyarn.Alsokeepinmindthatthenumberofyarnsperbeamisinthehundredsorthousandsandthattheremust,atleast,beonesupplypackageforeachoftheseyarns.Itislogical,therefore,tobuildaframeofsomesorttoholdthesupplypackagesinamannersoastofacilitatewar.To plishthispurposecreelsareequippedwithpackageholdersonwhichthesupplypackagesareplaced,tensiondevicetohelpmaintainuniformtensionthroughoutthecreel,guidestodirecttheyarnandtohelpkeeptheendsapart,antistaticdevicestoeliminatestaticchargesbytherubbingoftheyarnagainstthevarioussurfaces,andstopmotionstodetectbrokenendsand/oremptypackages.Intheory,thesizeofthecreel(andthereforethenumberofpackagesitmayhold)isunlimited.Inpractice,andnotconsideringpurchaseprice,thecreelsizeislimitedbytwofactors.Theoftheseisfloorspace.Acreelmustbehousedinthebuildingandthereforeitnecessarilyusessomeofthefacilitiesofthatbuilding.Sincethecreelproducesnothingtangibletooffsetthecostofhousingandmaintenance,itisimportantthatitconsumeaslittleoftheseaspossible:Thesecondfactoristheyarnitself.Intheoreticaldiscussions,yarnweight,especiallyforshortlengthsofyarn,isneglected.Inconsideringaverylargecreel,itisobviousthatsomeofthesupplypackagesmustbeverymuchfurtherawayfromthepointwherethebeamisbeingformedthanothers.Also,theyarnmustbesupportedtokeepitfromdraggingonthefloorandtangling.Eachsupportactsasacapstantensiondevice.Thus,itisimportanttokeepthepackagesinadistancerangewheretheeffectofyarnweightandtheeffectofsupportsastensionersmaybeneglected.Hencethesizeand,therefore,thecapacityofthecreelislimited.Ingeneral,umcreelcapacityrangesfromabout300packagesforveryheavyyarnsto1400packagesforthinyarns.Aswillbeseenlater,creelcapacityisanimportantfactorinwar.Creelsmaybeclassifiedbythenumberofcreelpositionsperendd.Usingthisclassification,creelsareeithersingleormultiplepackagecreelsToachievehigherbeamingefficiency,singlepackagecreelsareoftenusedinvariouscombinations.Ifthewindinghead,orheadstock,isfixed,oftennon-stationarysingleendcreelsaremovedinandoutofpositionasrequired.Thesecreelsarecalledtruckcreels.Truckcreelsrequirethatfloorspacebefortheemptycreel.Amorespaceefficientset-upresultsiftheheadstockiscapableofbeingmoved.Creelsusedinthismannerareknownasduplicatedcreels.Theadvantageofaduplicatedcreelisthelackofneedforanyemptycreelspaceinwhichtomovesanexpendedcreel.Inonetypeofmultiplepackagecreel,knownasamagazinecreel,morethanonepackageisprovidedforeachend.Thepackagesaretiedhead-to-tailsowarcancontinuewhenonepackageisexhausted.Anothermultiplepackagecreelisknownasthetravelingpackagecreel.Insteadofmovingcreelsorheadstockwhenfreshpackagesarerequired,thepackagesthemselvesaremovedintoposition.Withatravelingpackagecreel,thereplacementofemptypackageswithfullones,orcreeling,isdoneinthecenterwhilethepackagesinuseareontheoutside.Theyarnisnowreadytobeputonabeam.Themannerinwhichthisisdonedependsuponthecapacityofthecreel,thenumberofendsrequiredinthefinalbeamandthenecessity,ifany,ofmaintainingapatterninthewarp,e.g.,forwarpstripsinthefabric.Ifthecreelcapacityissufficientlyhighandthetotalnumberofendsrequiredissufficientlylowor,ifcreelcapacityisnotsufficienttosupplyalltherequiredendsandnodistinctyarnpatternisrequired,thenbeamwarisgenerallyused.Beamwarissimplythewindingofyarnsdirectlyfromthesupplypackagesontoabeam.Thisbeamiscalledasectionbeamsince,exceptforthecaseinwhichalltherequiredendscanbeputonasinglebeam,itcontainsonlyasectionofthewarprequired.If,however,withinsufficientcreelcapacity,itisnecessarytobuildawarpbeamcontainingthetotalityofendsrequiredorifthewarpyarnshavetobearrangedinadefiniteorder,thendrumwarisused.Indrumwar,thewarpisnotwounddirectlyfromthecreelontothebeambutrathersectionsofthewarparewoundontoapatterndrum.Inthismannertheentirewarpisbuiltupinaseriesofsectionsonthepatterndrum.Whenthetotalnumberofwarpendsrequiredinthefabrichasbeenwoundonthepatterndrum,theyareallremovedsimultaneouslyandwounduponabeam.Thisbeamcontainstheexactnumberofendsrequiredinthewarp.Also,becausewhensaretakenfromthecreelandwoundonthepatterndrum,exactplacementinrelationtoeachothermaybemade.Thefinalbeammaintainsthisplacement,andhenceanypatternintheIngeneral,forwarpknitting,theyarnfortheentirefabricisnotputonasinglebeam,butratherputuponaseriessmallersectionbeamswhichcontainonlyaportionofsrequiredforafull-widthfabric.Thesebeamsmaybeproducedeitherbybeamordrumwarmethods.Iftheyarnistobeusedforwarpknitting,itisusuallyreadyatthispointtogotothenextknittingmachine.If,however,theyarnistobeusedinweaving,itgenerallymustundergoonefurtheroperation,slashing. 經(jīng)紗上Intheweavingprocess,thewarpyarnsaresubjectedtorubbingandchafingagainstmetalbybeingthreadedthroughdropwires,heddlesandreed;theyareconstantlybeingrubbedtogetherduringshedding;theyaresubjectedtotensionbothconstant,bythelet-offandtake-up,andintermittent,bythesheddingandbeat-up.Alloftheseleadtoconditionswhicharefavorabletoendbreakage,anoccurrencewhichshouldbeminimized.Thus,itisdesirabletoproduceashighaqualitywarpaspossible,onewhichwilltherigorsofweaving.ThisisthepurposeofslashingorwarpAssumingtheyarnsaresinglespunyarns,thetensilestrengthoftheyarnsneedstobeimproved.Atthispoint,themajorstrengththattheyarnspossessisthatderivedfromthetwistingoftheirfibers.Ingeneral,thisstrengthisinadequatetoassureanacceptablelevelofendbreakageandthereforeattemptsshouldbemadetoboostthestrengthoftheyarnbycausingthefiberstoadheretoeachother.Thisis plishedbyaddinganadhesivetotheyarn.Continuousfilamentandplyyarnsareinherentlystrongenoughandusuallydonotrequireboostingoftheirstrength.Fortheproblemofrubbingandchafingwithmetalparts,thesolutionisverysimple;thesolutioniscommonforanyprobleminwhichrubbingisinvolved,i.e.,lubrication.Itisdesirabletolubricatethesurfaceoftheyarnsoasnottomakeitsusceptibletodamagethroughrubbingandchaffing.Ingeneralalltypesofyarn,singles,plyorcontinuousfilament,benefitfromalubricationprocedurepriortoweaving.Ideally,onethinksofyarnsassmoothcylindricalobjectswhen,infact,mostspunyarnsarequite"hairy".Duringsheddingtheseyarnsmovebackandforthpasteachother.Thisencouragesthe"hairs"ononeyarntotanglewiththe"hairs"onitsneighbors.Thistanglingcaneitherleadtothetanglingoftheyarnsthemselvesresultinginwarpbreakage,orcancausetheyarnstoweaveasone,causingafabricdefect.Thusitisbeneficialtomaketheoutersurfaceoftheyarnsmooth.Thepurposeofslashing(orwarpsizing)thereforeistoproduceawarpwhichwillwithstandtherigorsofweaving.Thispurposeis plishedby:EnhancingthestrengthoftheyarnbycausingthefiberstoadhereMakingtheoutersurfaceoftheyarnLubricatingorwaxingtheyarntoreduceIngeneral,singlespunyarnsmustbeslashedforalltheabovereasons.Continuousfilamentyarns,iftheyareslashedatall,usuallyneedadhesivetoprotectthefilamentfrombreaking.Plyyarnsareusuallyslashedforlubricationand/orsmoothness.Ingeneral,sizeingredientscanbedividedintofourAdhesives------adhesivesavailableincludealltypesofstarches,carboxymethylcellulose(CMC),polyvinylalcohol(PVA)andothers.Lubricants-------lubricantsmaybeoilssuchasmineralandvegetable,waxessuchasmineral,vegetableandanimaloranimalfats. additivesmaybeincludedtoprovidefeaturessuchasstaticandmildew thesolventgenerallyusedis（CMCAscanbeseen,therearemanypossibleingredientsavailableforasizerecipe.Sinceslashingisanonproductive,protectivemeasureitisimportanttocarefullyselectthesizeingredients.Somefactorswhiustbeconsideredare:CostoftheNodamagetotheCompatibilitywithEasilyremoved,ifProvidesgoodfabriccharacteristicsifnotNoLeastamountofdusting-offduringFewestnumberofendbreaksatManyfactorsinfluencetheimpactofthesizeupontheyarn.Thesefactorsincludethesizerecipeandtemperature,theconditionoftheequipment,andtheamountofsizepickedupbytheyarn.Iftheyarncontainstoomuchsizebyweightitwilltendtobebrittleand,asaresult,anexcessivenumberofendbreakswilloccur.Iftheyarncontainslittleornosizethennoneofthebenefitsofsizingtheyarnwillberealizedandagaintherewillbeexcessiveendbreakages.Theperfectsizerecipewouldconsistentlyeliminateallloomwarpstopsandlendalldesirablesecondarycharacteristicstothefinishedcloth.Forexample,warpyarnfordenimcloth,ifsizedwithrfectrecipe,wouldprovideanaddedweightofapproximay8%10%.Theperfectrecipeforapolyestercottonbroadclothwarpyarnwouldprovideminimumadd-onlevelof6%to8%,ahighleveloffilm-coatinglubricantandumsolubilitytofacilitatecompleteremovalfordyeingandresintreatment.8%～10%的重量。6%～8%的增重率，成膜性較Manymethodsfordeterminingtheperfectsizerecipehavebeenadvancedfromhighlyrespectedsources.Perhapsthemostpopularandmostadequatemethodistoestablishthesizerecipecharacteristicsdesired,andtheformulacomponentsthatwillbestprovidethese32 織Inordertointerlacewarpandweftthreadstoproducefabriconanytypeofweavingmachine,threeoperationsarenecessaryShedding:separatingthewarpthreadsintotwolayerstoformaPicking:passingtheweftthread,whichtraversesacrossthefabric,throughtheBeating-up:pushingthenewlyinsertedweft,knownasthepick,intothealreadywovenfabricatapointknownasthefellThesethreeoperationsareoftencalledtheprimarymotionsofweavingandmustoccurinagivensequence,buttheirprecisetiminginrelationtooneanotherisalsoofextremeimportanceandwillbeconsideredindetail.Twoadditionaloperationsareessentialifweavingistobecontinuous:Warpcontrol(orlet-off):thismotiondeliverswarptotheweavingareaattherequiredrateandatasuitableconstanttensionbyunwindingitfromaflangedtubeknownastheweaver'sClothcontrol(ortake-up):thismotionwithdrawsfabricfromtheweavingareaattheconstantratethatwillgivetherequiredpick-spacingandthenwindsitontoarollerTheyarnfromtheweaver'sbeampassesroundthebackrestandcomesforwardthroughthedropwiresofthewarpstopmotiontotheheald,whichisresponsibleforseparatingthewarpsheetforthepurposeofshedformation.Itthenpassesthroughthereed,whichholdsthethreadsatuniformspacingandisalsoresponsibleforbeating-uptheweftthreadthathasbeenleftinthetriangularwarpshedformedbythetwowarpsheetsandthereed.Templesholdtheclothfaroatthefelltoassistintheformationofauniformfabric,whichthenpassesoverthefrontrest,roundthetake-uproller,andontotheclothroller.Considerthesimplestplainshuttleloomonwhichonlytwoharnessframesareusedforthesheddingoperation.TheSheddingcycleforplainweave(whichisthesimplestweave)willrepeatontwopicksortwoweavingcycles.Inoneweavingcycle,thefrontharnessisinthetoppositionandthebackharnessisinthebottomposition.Inthenextweavingcycletheharnesseschangepositiontoproducethepattern,andthissequenceisrepeated.Whentheharnessesareintheirumupanddownpositions,theshedissaidtobefullyopened.Atthetimethetwosheetsof elevel,theshedissaidtobeclosed.Themomentatwhichtheshedclosesiscalledtheshedcrossingpoint.ThetimingofthecrossingwithintheweavingcyclehasagreateffectonweavingandthewovenfabricTheshedhastobesufficientlyopenedandremainopenlongenoughfortheshuttlepassage.Thespeedatwhichtheshuttleisprojectedthroughtheshedisveryimportantindeterminingtheloomspeed.Ittakesacertainperiodoftimetoacceleratetheshuttlefromresttoaspeedofsome12m/sinadistancelessthan25cm.Alsoitrequiresafinitetimetostoptheshuttleontheothersideoftheloom.Normally,theshedstartstochangelongbeforetheshuttleiscompleyoutoftheshed.Inmostcasesitispossibletoallowtheshuttletoentertheshedbeforetheopeningoftheshedinfrontofthereedisaslargeastheshuttlesize.Becauseofthis,somefrictionwillexistbetweentheshuttleandthewarpyamsneartheselvages.Inweaving,thewarpandfillingtensionsareveryimportantfactorsandhavetobecontrolled.Thesheddingandbeating-upcausecycletensionvariationsinthewarpyarns.Onmostloomsthereisaspecialmechanismtoalterthepathofyarntorelievethetension.Initssimplerform,themechanismconsistsofacamoperatedlevertovibratethebackroll,calledthewhiproll藏Ashuttleloomhastwocamoperatedpickingmechanisms,oneoneitherside,eachofwhichoperateseveryotherweavingcycle.Thelaycompletesonecycleofitsmovementinoneweavingcycle.Clearly,then,someofthemechanismsrepeattheirmovementseveryweavingcycleandsomeothersrepeattheirmovementseverytwoormoreweavingcycles.Thusanormalloomhastwoshafts.Themainshaft(crankshaftortopshaft)drivesthelaymechanismandisgearedtoanothershaftwhichoperatesathalfofthespeedofthecrankshaft.Thissecondshaftisknownasthecamshaft,anddrivesthepickingandsheddingmechanisms.Inthecaseofaplainloomthesheddingcamscanbefixeddirectlyonthecamshaft.Forweaveswhereitisnecessarytousemorethantwoharnesses,anadditionalshaftisused,calledtheauxiliarycamshaft.Thespeedoftheauxiliarycamshaftdependsonthenumberofpicksintherepeatofthefabricdesign.9（略）給出了織機(jī)上軸的安裝情況。33織TheshuttleloomshaveawidedegreeofversatilityandfallintothreemainHandStillusedinrelativelylargetiesfortheproductionofalltypesoffabricsinthelessdevelopedcountries,butalsousedinsomedevelopedcountriesfortheproductionofcertainclassicbrocade,tstriesandtweedsNon-automaticpowerThesemachinesarebeingusedineverdecreasingnumbers,especiallyinthedevelopedcountries,buttheyseemlikelytoretainacertainusefulnessintheproductionofspecialistfabrics,suchasindustrialfabricswovenfromheavywefts.ConventionalautomaticMachinesthathavegainedworldwidepopularitybecauseoftheiradvantagesofversatilityandrelativecheapnessTheinherentproblemsofpirn-windingofshuttleloomsandthedynamicproblemscreatedbythepickingandcheckingmechanismsintheseloomshaveencouragedloommakersinvestigateanddevelopvariousalternativemeansofweftSingleormultiplegripperorprojectileRapierWaterjetloomsandairjetOfthemanyvarioustypesofprojectileloomsdeveloped,themultipleprojectileSulzerweavingmachineswasthe,andtodateitistheonlyloomofitstypeto ewidelyestablished.Initially,itwassuitableforonlyalimitedrangeofrelativelyplainfabrics,producedfromspunyarns.Overtheyears,ithasbeendevelopedtoweavedobby,JacquardandterryfabricswithuptoeightdifferentcolorsofweftRapierloomsaremadeinavarietyoftypes.Therapiersmayberequiredtoextendacrossthefullwidthofthewarp,inwhichcasetheywillbeofarigidconstruction,oralternativelytworapiersmayentertheshedfromoppositesidesoftheloomandtransfertheweftfromonerapierheadtotheotheratapointnearthecenteroftheloom.Inthelatercase,therapiersmaybeeitherrigidorflexible.Thefutureofthismethodofweftinsertionwouldappeartoliemainlyinthefieldofmulti-colorwork,sincetheirratesofweftinsertionaregenerallyonlycomparablewiththoseofconventionalautomaticlooms.Itshouldalsoberememberedthatonly50%oftherapiermovementisutilizedinweftinsertion,and,forsinglerapierlooms,thiswastedmovementisalsoatimeloss.Thetechniqueofinsertingweftinafluidjetachievesweft-insertionratescomparablewiththoseachievedbytheSulzerweavingmachine,buttherearewidthlimitations.Waterjetloomshavebeenshowntobethemosteconomicalforproducingcertaintypesofplaincontinuousfilamentfabric,especiallywhentheyareproducedfromhydrophobicsyntheticfiberfabricsLoomdesignershaveconstantlysoughttoreplacetheshuttleasameansoffillinginsertion.Theprimereasonistherateofproduction.Physicallawsdictatethat,tomovethroughtheshed,theshuttlemustbeacceleratedanddecelerated.Thisnaturallytakestimeandenergy.Iflesstimecouldbespentacceleratingtheshuttle,andthetransittimeoftheshuttlethroughtheshedcouldbereduced,higherloomspeedscouldbeobtained.Secondly,withtheremovalofthefillingsupplypackagefromthefillingcarrier,thefillingcarriercouldbemadesmallersotheyarnmovementinsheddingcouldbereduced.Arapierismerelyadevicemadeofmetaloracompositematerialwithanattaentontheendtocarrythefillingyarnthroughtheshed.Thesimplestrapierloomisknownasthesinglerigidrapier.Thistypeofloomconsistsofonerapierwhichcarriestheyarnthroughtheshed.Inmostinstancesthisloomisnotasfastasashuttleloombecausetherapiermustbewithdrawnfromtheshedpriortobeat-upand,duringthiswithdrawal,nofillingiscarried.Recallthattheshuttleloomlaysafillingyarnwitheverypassthroughtheshed.Therearealsospacelimitations,sincethesinglerapiermustbeatleastaslongastheloom esomeofthespeedlimitations,thedoublerigidrapierloomwasdeveloped.Thisloomconsistsoftworapiers,onecalleda"giver"andtheothera"taker".Thegiverpicksupthefillingyarnandcarriesittothecenteroftheshed.Meanwhile,thetakermovestothecenteroftheshed,picksuptheyarnfromthegiver,andcarriesittheremainingdistance.Noweachrapiercoversonlyhalfthedistanceandthereforealmosttwicenumberofpicksperunittimecanbeinsertedascomparedtothesinglerapier.Unfortunay,becauseoftherigidrapier,therestillmayexisttheproblemofwasted ethepotentialspaceproblem,thedoubleflexiblerapierwasdeveloped.Therapiersinthiscasearenolongerrigidbarsbutflexiblets.Sincethetsareflexible,theycanbebentsoastofitundertheloom,thusconservingspace.Thedoubleflexiblerapierconsistsofagiverandtakersimilartothedoublerigidrapier.Otherloomsuseescopicrapierswhichextendduringfillinginsertionandretractduringwithdrawal,thusattemptingtocombinethefeaturesofbothflexibleandrigidTheprojectileloomusesasmallprojectiletocarrythefillingyarnthroughtheshed.Inreality,theshuttleisactuallyaprojectilebutthedistinctivefeatureofshuttlelessloomsthatthefillingpackagebeexteriortothefillingcarrier,disqualifiestheshuttleloomfromconsideration.Theprojectileloomusesaprojectilewithgripperstocarrytheyarnthroughtheshed.Thisprojectilemaybepickedfrombothendsorfromoneend.Ifpickingisfromoneend,theremustbeamethodtocarrytheprojectilebacktotheothersideoftheloom,achainreturnmechanismisthebestchoice.Inanairjetloom,highpressureaircarriesthefillingyarnthroughtheshed.Themajordrawbacktothistypeofloomisthattheairdiffusesquiterapidlysothewidthofthefabricislimited.Modernairjetloomsuseairguidesorairguideswithauxiliaryjetstoextendthedistancethattheyarncanbecarried.Inawaterjetloom,thefillingyarniscarriedbyahighpressurejetofwater.Sincewaterdiffusesmuoreslowlythanair,widerfabricscanbemadewithwaterjetloomswithoutusingguides.However,becausewateristhecarrier,therearerestrictionsastoyarntypesandpre-weavingprocessing,suchasslashingLessonThirty-EightBasic38本組PlainTheplainweaveisthesimplestformofyarninterlacingandconsistsofthealternatesheddingofwarpyarnstoprovideafabricinwhicheachfillingyarnpassesonewarpandundertheadjacentwarp.AnadjacentfillingyarnreversestheinterlacingsothatitpassesoverthewarpthatonthetopoftheprecedingfillingyarnandunderthewarpthatlaytheprecedingfillingManywovenfabrics,say70percent,areconstructedusingtheplainweave.Unlesscolorshavebeenprintedontothesurface,plainweavefabricsaregenerallyconsideredtobeInmakingplainweavefabrics,yarnscanbepackedlooselyortightlytogether,andthenumberofwarpyarnsmayequaltothenumberoffillingyarnsineach10cmormayvaryconsiderably.Yarnscanvarymeterandtypetoproduceinterestingfabrics.Whenthenumberofwarpyarnsper10cmisapproximaythesameasthenumberoffillingyarnsper10cm,thethreadcount,sometimescalledfabriccount,isconsideredbalanced;whenthenumberofyamsper10cmdiffersconsiderablybetweenwarpandfilling,thefabriccountisunbalanced10厘米內(nèi)的經(jīng)紗根數(shù)和緯紗1010Theplainweaveiscomparativelyinexpensivetoproduce.Avarietyofdesignscanbemadeusingvariouscoloringandfinishingprocessesonthefinishedfabric.Inaddition,someofthemostdurablefabricsaremanufacturedbytheplainweavetechnique.Examplesofplainweavefabricincludemuslin,percale,cheesecloth,chambray,gingham,batiste,andy,chiffon,shantungandhomespun.密織薄紗、干酪包布、色經(jīng)白緯的色織布（錢布雷布、方格色織布、細(xì)薄織物（法（（）nerengandarcveabrcsaneobanedbyuinghevaraonofhepanwave.Terbeectsprduedbyusnghavyyasnhefngrwrpdcon(usuallythefillingdirection),bygrouyarnsinspecificareasofthewarporfilling,orbyhavingmorewarpthanfillingyarnsper10cm.Manyribfabricshaveheavyyamsinsertedaspicks.Examplesofthisconstructionincludepoplin,faille,bengalineand10厘米內(nèi)經(jīng)密大于緯密等方法均可形成凸條效應(yīng)。許Thetwilltechniqueischaracterizedbyadiagonallineontheface,andoftenontheback,ofthefabric.Thefacediagonalcanvaryfromalow14~angle(reclininill)toa75~angle(steeptwill).Anangleof45~isconsideredtobeamediumdiagonaloraregulartwin.Theregulartwinisthemostcommon.Theangleofthediagonalisdeterminedbytheclosenessofthewarpends,thenumberofyamsusedper10cm,thediameteroftheyamsused,andtheactualprogressionformingtherepeat擄'>（急斜紋1245擄'>Twillweavefabricshaveadistinctiveandattractiveappearance.Ingeneral,fabricsmadebythetwillweaveinterlacingarestronganddurable.Twillsdifferfromplainweaveinthenumberoffillingpicksandwarpendsneededtocompletearepeatpattern.Thesimplesttwillusesthreepicksandthreewarpendstoformtherepeat.AtleastthreeharnessesarerequiredonloomsifatwillweaveistobemadeThewarpyarngoesover,orfloatsover,twofillingyarnsandunderoneinthe1twill.Inaregulartwilleachsucceedingfloatbeginsonepickhigherorlowerthantheadjacentfloat.Inmorecomplicatedtwillstheprogressionmayvary,butthediagonaleffectwillremainvisible.Thenumberofpickyarnsrequiredtocompletethetwillpatterndeterminesthenumberofharnessesrequiredforweaving.Sometwillpatternsmayrequireasmanyasfifteenharnesses經(jīng)紗可以處在緯紗下面或者浮于緯紗之上，兩根緯紗在上面一根在下面即1221'>斜15個(gè)綜框。Twillfabricshaveeitheraright-handorleft-handdiagonal.Ifthediagonalmovesfromthelowerlefttotheupperrightofthefabric,itisreferredtoasaright-handtwill;ifitmovesfromupperlefttolowerright,itisaleft-handtwill.Ineventwillfabrics,thefillingyarnspassoverandunderthesamberofwarpyarns,whereasinuneventwillsthepickgoesovereithermoreorfewerwarpsthanitgoesunder.Uneventwillfabricshavearightandawrongsideandthereforearenotconsideredreversible.Filling-facedtwillsarethoseinwhichthepickspredominateonthefaceofthefabric;warp-facedtwillshaveamoreevidentwarponthesurface.Eventwillshavethesamberofwarpandfillingyamsonboththefaceandbackandcanbeconsideredreversible.Ofcourse,finishesandcoloringmethodsmaymakeonesidethefaceandpreventreversingthefabric11（略）是幾種斜紋組織Yarnsusedinmakingtwillweavefabricsfrequentlyaretightlytwistedandexhibitgoodstrength.Thetwillweavepermitsthepackingofyarnsclosertogetherbecauseoffewerinterlacings.Thisclosepackingcombinedwithstrongyarnscanproduceastrong,durablefabric.However,iftheyarnsarepackedtootightly,thefabricwillhavereducedtearingstrength,abrasionandwrinklerecovery.Inadditiontoappearanceandgoodstrength,twillstendtoshowsoillessquicklythanplainweavefabrics.However,twillsaremoreexpensivetoproducethanplainweavefabricsbecauseofthemorecomplicatedweavingtechniquesandloomsarerequired.Afrequentvariationofthetwillweaveistheherringbone.Inthisdesign,thetwilldirectionisreversedatpredeterminedintervalstoformaseriesofinvertedVsV字形。Examplesoffabricsmadebythetwillweaveincludedenim,jean,gabardine,surah,sharkskin,someflannelfabricsandsometweedsSatinSatinweavesarecharacterizedbylongfloatsonthefaceofthefabric.Thesefloatsarecaughtundercrossyarnsatintersectionsasfarapartaspossiblefortheparticularconstruction.Atnotimedoadjacentparallelyarnscomeincontactwithoneanotheratapointofinterlacing.Thisreducesthepossibilityofadiagonaleffectoccurringonthefaceofthefabric.However,somesatinsdohaveafaintdiagonaleffectowingtothelownumberofyarnsusedtoformtherepeatInasatinfabricitisthewarpendsthatfloatonthesurface.Avariationofthesatinweaveinwhichthefillingpicksfloatonthesurfaceisreferredtoassateen.Filamentfiberyarnsaregenerallyusedinmakingsatinfabrics,whilestaple-fiberyarns,oftenofcotton,aremorecommoninsa