新材料在當(dāng)代首飾中的運(yùn)用newmaterialapplicationincontemporaryjewellery

NewMaterialApplicationinContemporaryJewelleryInmycurrentseriesofwork,Iamstronglyinterestedanddrivenbycontrasts.

WithamovefromEuropetoChinain2007,itmightbeobviousthattheingredientsofmyworkderivefromthenewinfluencesthatnowsurroundme.Thedifferencesthatcanbefoundintheculturalbackgrounds,thediversityofpeopleandthenewwayoflivingnourishmythinking.

Thecontrastsoftraditional&modern,old&new,male&female,growth&decay,fake&void,intriguemeandaremirroredinmypiecesthatfindtheircentrepointintheimageryoftheflower-selling-ladiesofShanghai'sstreets.YesterdayIsaDifferentDayLisaJuen(Germany)Materials:Steel,FakeNails,NailVarnish,enamel,GoldLeaf,SilverLeaf,CubicZirkonia,Glass,Polyester,Cotton,Rust,freshwaterpearls,LED,LEDscreen,fabric,Cable,LightSwitch,plastic,elasticband,stainlesssteel材料：鋼、假指甲、指甲油、琺瑯、金箔、鎬石、玻璃、聚酯、棉、鐵銹、淡水珍珠、LED燈、LED屏、布料、電線、燈開關(guān)、塑料、松緊帶、不銹鋼DOUBLEFAKE,BroochSEXYGOLDFISHPINKTRADITION,BroochThefemalenotionthataccompaniesthebeingofaflower,itspower,bloom,playfulnessandseductiveness,evenuptothesuspicionof/andbeingfakeinspiresmymaking,beingopposedtonaturalprocesses,timeanddecay.MoneymoneyNecklaceEarrings

$265

Newsprint,Perspex,mixedmedia,silver報(bào)紙，有機(jī)玻璃，綜合材料，銀

Brooch

$450

Newsprint,paint,mixedmedia,silver報(bào)紙，有機(jī)玻璃，綜合材料，銀

KvetoslavaFloraSekanova“Thisgroupofwork,‘Familiarity’,isaboutnoticingsurfacetextures,andgoingonajourneywiththematerials.Whatdoesthematerialallowmetodo?HowmanysecretswillIgettodiscover?WhatpresumedaestheticrulesdoIallowmyselftobreak?”

←Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$530↓Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445“Forme,jewellerydoesnotstandcompletelyseparatedfromothercreativeforms,orfromeverydaylife.IlikeMargaretWest’sapproachofplacingjewelleryalongsideeverydayphenomenafindingpoeticlinks.Itengageslogicyetalsoisbornfromintuition."→Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445↓Brooch,newsprint,mixedmedia,silver

$445Chihuahua吉娃娃

W71mmxH108mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,hessian,cork,Formica,18ct,9ctplateddrawingpin,9ct,stg,brassscrewsandstainlesssteelwire.再生膠木，粗麻繩，軟木塞，膠木，18克拉鍍9克拉圖釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲AnnaWhitleyHamster倉鼠

W92mmxH53mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,cork,Formica,18ctplateddrawingpins,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生膠木、軟木塞、膠木，18k鍍金圖釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲Goldfish金魚

W135mmxH120mm,

$450

Formica,cork,recycledFormica,18ctplateddrawingpins,18ctstaple,9ct,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.膠木、軟木塞、再生膠木、18k鍍金圖釘、18k鍍金訂書釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲Poodle獅子狗

W90mmxH109mm,

$450

RecycledFormica,hessian,cork,Formica,9ct&18ctplateddrawingpins,9ct,stg,brassscrews,stainlesssteelwire.再生膠木，粗麻布，軟木塞，膠木，9k和18k鍍金圖釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲Cat,

W90mmxH110mm,

$450

Formica,hessian,cork,stgand18ctstaples,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生膠木，粗麻布，軟木塞，18k鍍金圖釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲Rabbit,

W85mmxH127mm,

$450

Formica,hessian,cork,veneer,9ctplateddrawingpin,18ctstaple,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.再生膠木，粗麻布，軟木塞，膠木，9k鍍金圖釘，18k訂書釘，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲SausageDog臘腸

W163mmxH82mm,

$450

Whiteboard,Formica,veneer,pearls,magnets,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.白紙板，膠木，薄片鑲飾，珍珠，吸鐵石，黃銅螺絲和不銹鋼絲Budgie,

W63mmxH156mm,

$450

Whiteboard,Formica,9ct,stg,brassscrews&stainlesssteelwire.白紙板，膠木，黃銅螺絲，不銹鋼絲broochesSterlingsilver,paint925銀，顏料

RuiKikuchi(Japen-Austrlia)Rui,recentlyreturnedtoherbirthcountryafterbeingbroughtupandeducatedinSydney.Thisnewbodyofplayfulandexperimentalpiecescouldbeseentoresemblemarinelife,reflectingandrecognisingthesimplebeautyoftheworldaroundusisinresponsetoherobservationsofconsumptioninJapanesesociety.Inmanipulatinganabundantmaterialinthehumanworld,suchasthePET(polyethyleneteraphthalate)bottle,heraimistoconsiderthemundaneobjectandrecognisebeautywithinit.Inextendingourhumilitytoseeavalueinthesematerials,itisherhopethatwereducethenonchalantuseofgoodsandthatcanleadustoexperiencewonderintheeveryday.Necklace

$600

rubber,textiles,foundobjects硅膠，紡織品，現(xiàn)成品Brooche$330

Retrofabricfromtheeighties,foundobjects,silver,powdercoatedcopper80年代布料，現(xiàn)成品，銀，鍍銅

NadeneCarr"InmyworkIaminterestedintwoformsofadornment,garmentandjewellery.Mycuriosityliesinthecrossoverofthetwoandhowclosetheycometoeachother,andwhathappensintheexchange.Themetalgivesasenseoftraditionaljewellery.UsingitasframeworkfortheunderlyingstructureinwhichIpushthroughfabricembeddedwithobjectstoaddasculpturaldimension.Fabricembodiesapieceofhistory,oftenafavoritegarmenthasmemoriesaddinganotherlayer.

Byrecyclingitintoanotherformofsimplebeautyanddetailallowsaconnectionphysicallyandemotionallytothewearer."

NadeneCarr,2010AllBrooches

$330each

Retrofabricfromtheeighties,foundobjects,silver,powdercoatedcopper

Brooch:AConstantGrinding2012

Galiamelonseeds,titanium,aluminiumsteel,silver加利亞瓜子，鈦，鋁鋼，銀KarinRoyAnderson(Sweden)Brooch:AConstantGrinding

Appleseeds,titanium,steel,silver

Iamalongdistancerunner.Theurgeforrepeatingmovementsoverandoveragain,methodicallyandresolutelyissomethingthatissignificantforbothmypersonalityandmywork.Runningkilometreafterkilometreorsawingupanddownhourafterhour.

Necklace:AConstantGrinding2012

Galiamelonseeds,textile,brass加利亞瓜子，紡織品，黃銅Multiplicityandrecurrenceattractme.Inalargescalethevariationsbetweenthedetailsareveryimportant.Icreatestructuresandrhythmsusingsmallelementstobuilddynamicpatterns.Myaimisthattheresultinasmallscaleshouldexpressharmonyandbalance.Bracelet:CatchingBigFish2013

Recycledplastic,silver,textile再生塑料，銀，紡織品Earrings:CatchingBigFish2013

Recycledplastic,silver,textile

TheEnd

brooch

glassbeads,plastic,silver,leather玻璃珠，塑料，銀，皮革

12x11x4cmFeliekevanderleest(Norway)AnimalshaveaspecialplaceinFeliekevanderLeest'sheart.Sheprovidesmanyanimalswithabusysociallifeasornaments,givesaselectgroupanicehomeinmuseumsandsheplacedafewoversizedspecimensinthecenterofeveryone'sattentioninmeetingroomsandstairwells.Jewellery,objectorlightfixture,thescaleorfunctionisnottheaspectthatinspiresVanderLeest:thetellingofunusualstoriesisalwayshermainmotivation.

VanderLeesthasenrichedjewellerydesignwiththeintroductionoftextiletechniques.Combiningthiswithgold,silverandplastic,intenyearstimeshedevelopedherownidiom.Forsomeonewhonormallyworkswithhandsizedpiecesitisremarkabletodevelopmonumentalinstallations.Acontinuousflowofherworknowfindsitswaytonumerousexhibitions.Inaddition,itishappilycollectedbyindividualsandmuseumsthroughthegalleriesthatrepresentherinAmsterdam,NewYorkandTokyo.Agreatmilestonewasthe2006exhibitionJewelleryFables:themuseuminMiddlesbrough(mima)exhibitedanoverviewofallherworkandalsopublishedanaccompanyingcatalog.

Apartfromtheobviousfunherworksometimesshowesanunexpectedseriousside.Contemporaryissuessuchastheenvironment,dealingwithanimalsandallkindsofsocialproblemsaretouchedupon.InthiswayVanderLeest,likeJeandeLaFontaineinhisfamousfables,showsustheothersideofthecoin.Buthermostimportantqualitycontinuestobeherunstoppableenthusiasmformakingnewpiecesandthejoytheygiveus,thespectators.

2012

PrairiePioneer大草原先鋒

bracelet

glassbeads,textile,silver,gold,plastic,leather

15x10x10cm2012

Don&BobDigger挖掘者

earclips

gold,plastic

3x3x2cmeach2012

Anti-WarWarrior反戰(zhàn)武士

brooch

textile,glassbeads,gold,topaz,onyx,silver紡織品，玻璃珠，金，托帕石，縞瑪瑙，銀

8.5x9x4cm2003

CamouflageDeerwithTargetTrousers穿靶子褲的偽裝中的鹿

object/necklace

plastic,textile,gold,coral,shellpearls

object12x12x6cm2003

StripeyAnimals條文動物

bracelets

textile,silver

10x12.5x4.5cm2002

GiraffewiththeZebraLegs有著斑馬腿的長頸鹿

necklace

plastic,textile,silver,glassbeads

giraffe22x8x3cm2002

PartyGoldfishinPool游泳池中的派對金魚

objectwithring

plastic,textile,gold

ring5x2.5x5cm2000

CarryFish'Jessica'

wearableobject

rubber,textile,dollssleepyeyes

38x18x13cmReposeCollection.Necklace,2002

feathers,thread

12x10x3"

Ienjoyintroducingvariousmaterialsintomyworkbecauseoftheirtactilequalitiesandassociativeimplications.Thereconfigurationofpreexistingobjectsproposesamoreintimateandpoeticdialogue,withopeninterpretations.Everyobservermaycontemplatemeaningsmoreintuitivelybyrecollectionoftheirownknowledgeorexperience.julieAmatheisReposeCollection.Bracelet,2003

feathersthread

4x4x13/4"

Inthe"ReposeCollection"Ihaveindulgentlyalteredtherealqualitiesandsymbolicroleofthisancientmaterial.Thesesemiplumesbecomeaseriesofunnatural,colorless,andfrailrings.Inasubtlewaythesesilencedfeathersproposequestionsregardingcontemporaryrituals,andprovideevidenceofthevulnerableandimpaireddualityinwhichmanandnaturecoexist.silicone-rubber

?pigments

?thread?40cmElaBauer(Netherlands)ring‘02

?silver銀

?latex膠乳

?thread線?