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ThefourbeautiesinancientChinaandtheaestheticalstandard(審美標(biāo)準(zhǔn))oftheancientwomenXiShi,alsocalledXiZi,whowasbornintheSpringandAutumnPeriod,theYuestate,istheheadofthefourbeautiesofancientChina,sheisheavenlybeautyandhasgracefulcharm.TheYuestatewasdefeatedbyWu,thekingofYuewantedtostate,soXiShiandZhengDanwerededicatedto(獻(xiàn)給)thekingofWu.LaterXiShibecametheKing'sfavoriteconcubine,disrupting(破壞)theorderofWu.YuestatecrossingtheopportunityandbeattheWustate.XiShi'sbeautywassaidtobesoextremethatwhileleaningoverabalconytolookatthefishinthepond,thefishwouldbesodazzledthattheyforgottoswimandsankawayfromthesurface.沉魚醉——翎翼玉指撥弦萬籟衰,姑蘇臺外水波開。美人笑靨驚天色,惹醉魚兒沉下來。Thesmileofthebeautifulwomanmakesthecoloroftheskychanged,thefishinthewateralsosanktothebottomduetoseeingthissmilingface.WangZhaojun,whowasborninZigui,Hubei
Province.InthefirstyearofEmperorHanJian
Zhao,Wangwasselectedwhentheemperorcallintothebeautyintheworld.Later,shemarriedbeyondtheGreatWalltobuildfriendshipbetweenHanandHunandstopthewarforhalfacentury.WangZhaojunleftherhometownonhorsebackonabrightautumnmorningandbeganajourneynorthward.Alongtheway,thehorseneighed,makingZhaojunextremelysadandunabletocontrolheremotions.Asshesatonthesaddle,shebegantoplaysorrowfulmelodiesonastringedinstrument.Aflockofgeeseflyingsouthwardheardthemusic,sawthebeautifulyoungwomanridingthehorse,immediatelyforgottoflaptheirwings,andfelltotheground.Fromthenon,Zhaojunacquiredthenickname"fellsgeese"or"dropsbirds."李白《王昭君》另一昭君拂玉鞍,上馬蹄紅顏。今日漢宮人,明朝胡地妾。Zhao
wipe
jadesaddle
and
then
ride
west.
Today
she
is
awomen
belong
to
palace,but
tomorrow
she
will
be
the
wife
of
hun.DiaoChanwasaShanxi
Xinzhouperson.ShewasofficialWangYun’ssingerintheEasternHanDynasty.Shewasprettybeautifulandheavenlyfragrance–peony(國色天香),herbeautycouldoverthrowthecountriesandcities.EasternHan,thedynastywasmanipulated(操縱)byatraitor(逆賊),DongZhuo.Wang
YunworriedthatDongZhuowouldusurp(篡奪)theEasternHanDynasty,sohethoughtaseriesofstratagems(計謀).FirsthesentDiaoChantoLvBusecretly,thensenthertoDongZhuoinpublic.DiaoChanmovedinthetwoperson.Thetwomanwasdeeplyfascinated.OnedaywhenDiaoChanenjoyedthemooninthegarden,thelightwindsuddenlycame,thebrightmoonwascoveredbyapieceofcloud,whichwasseenbyWangYun.Inordertopublicizedhowbeautifulhisdaughteris,WangYunalwayssaidtootherpeoplethathisdaughterwasmorebeautifulthanthemoonbecausethemoonquicklyhiddenbehindthecloudswhencomparedwithDiao
Chan.Therefore,DiaoChanisalsoknownas"outshining
themoon".美人為計凝眉愁,思前想后無心休。一心思報王公恩,無意為國雪恨仇。高貴典雅應(yīng)為貂,歌聲婉約當(dāng)屬蟬。貂蟬之貌使月閉,不知王公情何堪?——《貂蟬賦》Sheisasnoble
andelegant
asamink(貂),hersangisasgracefulasacicada(蟬).DiaoChan’sgoodlooksmakethemoonhid,peopledon’tknowMrWang’sfeeling.YangYuhuan(719-756),alsocalledTaiZhen,theancestralhomeofPuzhou
Yongle(nowShanxi
Yongjicounty),wasborninSichuanChengdu(nowSichuanChengdu).AfterbeingShouwang
Limao’s
rani(王妃),shebecameLiLongji’shigh-rankedimperialconcubine(貴妃).。Afterenteringthepalace,Yangmissdhome.Shecried”WhencanIhavemyday?”Whenshetouchedtheflower.Petalsshrinkedinstantlyandleavesrolled.Then,amaidsawandsaideverywherethatYangYuhuancomparedbeautywithflowers,flowershungitsheadshamefacedly.That'swhyYangalsocalled"xiuhua".長安回望繡成堆,山頂千門次第開。一騎紅塵妃子笑,無人知是荔枝來?!哆^華清宮絕句》杜牧天生麗質(zhì)難自棄,一朝選在君王側(cè)?;仨恍Π倜纳?,六宮粉黛無顏色?!堕L恨歌》白居易Endowedwithnaturalbeautytoohardtohide,Onedayshestoodselectedforthemonarch’sside.Turningherhead,shesmiledsosweetandfullofgraceThatsheoutshoneinsixpalacesthefairestface.Anyaesthetictasteofaneraandwascloselyrelatedwiththepolitical,economic,socialandculturalbackgrounds,andthefactorstothemisthechangeofsocial,whichmeansthatsocialenvironmentconstraintspeopleappreciatingbeautyandactsofpursuitingbeauty.Atonetime,theancientChineseaestheticandideologicalconnotationaren’tjusthappenwithoutfoundation,itmustberootedinaspecificera.商紂先秦兩漢魏晉隋唐宋元明清Rouge(胭脂),akindofhairdressingcosmeticstheancientwomenmostwidelyused,comesfromflowerscalledYanZhi(燕支),soitalsocalledYanZhi(燕支).DatedfromZhouperiod,itcondensedwith(凝結(jié))flowers(紅藍(lán)花)tocleanfaceatfirst.Inancienttimes,thepalacearecommonlyusedrougetomakeup.Rubbingcheekstoothickwascalled“winedizzymakeup“(酒暈妝),alightshinewascalled”peachmakeup”(桃花妝)andfirstthinrougethenawhitepowdercoatwascalled“flychardonnaymakeup”(飛霞妝).Later,itcanalsowiperougeonthelip,whichistheprototypeofthelipstick.桃花妝Intheearlytime,peopleoftenuse“fair“(粉黛)todescribewomen.Infact,powderisancientwomen‘scosmetics(化妝品).IntheperiodofShangZhou(商紂時期),thefemalehasthepursuitofbeauty.Peopleknewtoburnleadpowder(燒鉛坐粉)toapplyontheface,makingtheskinsmooth.
InnerbeautyclothingDelicate,obedientandgentle
KingChuperformswaistandtherearemanypeoplestarvetodeathinthepalacemoralityandtalentSimplicitynodecorationTheappearancePre-QinandHanDynastiesWomenthroughfoodintake(食物攝入),themaintenanceofdrugs(藥物的保養(yǎng)),tocondition(護(hù)理)theirlook,bodyandskinfromtheinside.Andatthattimewomenwererespected(推崇)drinkingthedonkey-hidegelatinsoup,whichhavebeendevelopedasahabit,particularlyinthewinter,womenwilldrinkeveryday.Therefore,thewomeninthepalaceallhaveabeautifulface.ThemostinterestingisthefacemakeupofHandynastywomen:Womenarecoatedwithwhitemakeupontheirface,usetheredcoatinginthemouthandtheoutlineoflipsisprettysmall.Thismeansthatfromthenonthe"lookingpale(面如凝脂)","cheerylips(櫻桃小口)"willbecomethebasicstyleofancientfeminine(婦女的)beauty.Thereisnouniformstandardforpeopleofaestheticbeautyofwomen,coupledby(加之)materialconditions,peoplearemorestressedonwomen‘sinnerbeauty,whichisatemperament
beautycultivatedbylyre-playing,chess,calligraphyandpainting.StartingfromtheWeiandJinperiod,thebeautyofwomenbegantogetthevalueoftheindependenceandtobeappreciatedandcherished(珍視).Xuncharmoncesaid“Comparedwithmoralcharacter,thegirl'sappearanceismoreimportant”.Inspiredbyvirtueofthedeclarationofindependence,womenconsciouslybegantohavethepursuitofbeauty.魏晉Mostofthewomeninthisperiod,worewidesleeve,short
Ru(廣袖短襦)andfloor-lengthdress.Herwaistboundedwith"baoyao",andusedclothingtodecorate,andinsertingflowerand"buyao(步搖)"wasalsopopular,whichfurtheremphasizedthewomen'scharmand
grace.Whenmakingup,womenoftenornamentedapointofredoryellow"flower"includingavarietyofshapesbetweentheforehead,andthe"flower"isgivenprioritytotneshapeofleavesorflowers.InthestoryofHua
mulan,theverse(詩句)"combingladyisbeautifulhairbesidethewindow,pastingyellowappliqueinfroutofthewindow"wasjusttheembodiment(體現(xiàn))ofthedecoration.Therearethreetimeschangeofwomen'sclothingstyleduringWei,JinandtheNorthernandSouthernDynasties.First,inthelateofTheThreeKingdoms,peoplecreatedanewstylenamed"shangchangxiaduan(上長下短)"whichisbreakthroughinthetriditionalclothingstyle.Second,thechangehappenedintheJindynasty).peoplecalled"shangjianxiafeng(上檢下豐)"namelyRu(短襦)becameshortandsummerdresswaslengthenedandwidened.Itmadewomenmoreslim,beautifulandelegantduetofitness.Thethirdgreatchangeoccuredinthesoutherndynasty,song,qiandliang.Duetothepromotionofthenobilityandlandlords(士族地主),thestyleofbigsleeveandlongdressreacheditszenith(盛極一時).TotheSui,TangDynasties,therewasabigchangeinthefemaleaesthetic.TheperiodofSuiandTangDynastiesinChina'sfeudal(封建的)societywasaheyday(鼎盛期),femininebeautyalsoreflectedthesocialfashionofbeingplump(豐腴的)andgorgeous(華貴的).隋唐說到主流,胖就是唐朝女人的主流。唐朝女人以肥為美,因為李姓家族本是突厥的后代,少數(shù)民族整天喝奶吃肉,長得豐滿壯碩。大家都豐滿壯碩,所以看多看慣自然覺得順眼,再加上最高領(lǐng)導(dǎo)也剛好喜歡這一款的,所以玉環(huán)則天之流,就成了主流。主流一旦成為主流之后,大家就很難再理性地問聲為什么,閉了眼睛跟著走就是了。TangDynasty'sdressembodiesthestrongnationalcustomsandextremepioneeringconsciousness,TangDynastyfemale'sdailyclothingexpressfullywomeninTangDynasty'sboldandopen,thepursuitoftheirownbeautyshowthespiritofthetimesofideologicalconceptandtothenewthingstheyhaveagreatenthusiasmonclothing,theypursuittochangesandinnovation,wearingboldlymen'sandHudress.AbigsocialTangDynastyhadbeendressedupverybeautifully.Topless
clothesThebondage(束縛)ofthetraditionalfeudal(封建)thoughtforwomenisverylarge,andthewomen'sclothingisveryelegantinTangdynasty,willdaretobaretheirchestandfullyshowsthetheircurvaceousbody.Likethepoem“giveforbeauty”ofFangGan:“thehalf-hiddenchestlookslikesnow”,and“thechestlookslikesnowandthefacelookslikeacloud"arethebestexpressionsofthisdress.HufuDuring
the
Tang
dynasty,
the
northern
nomadic
people
associated
with
the
central
plains
frequently,which
had
great
influence
on
the
tang's
costumes.Thehufuculturemadetang'swomenfindeverythingnewandfresh.Hence(因此),aboomofhufufashionswepttheTangdanasty,aswellasitsaccessoriesstandingforhu'slifestyle.Muliandweimao(幕籬和帷帽)aredesignedforwomentocovertheirfacesoutside.ThefeatureofHuihuclothesincludedcollarfolded,narrowsleeve,andlongandwidedressmatchingwaistband.
RuqundressRuqundresswasawomen‘straditionalcostumewhichtheTangdynastywomenoftenwore.Itcontainsashortjacket,askirt,andadecoratedtippet.Thejacketshouldbeshortandsmallwhiletheskirtshouldbefatandlong.Skirtwashightochest,evenwasunderthearmpit(腋).Aftertyingaribbon(絲帶),neckandchestwereexposed,whichgivespeopleafeelingofelegant(優(yōu)雅)andslender(修長).RuqundevelopedtothetopintheTangDynasty,ithadnovel(新穎的)styles,abundant(豐富的)colorsandgorgeous(華麗的)patterns.Becauseoftheinfluenceofpolitics,economy,cultureandsoon,peoplebegantoadvocateasimpleelegantbeauty.Femalebeautychangedopentoelgant(清雅的)andintroverted(內(nèi)斂的).RoughlyaBuddism
godness
GuanyinBodhisattva(菩薩)offemalebeautyintheap
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