各種卡波(carbomer)的流變特性及應用

1、 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedFormulate with Confidence The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved2主旨主旨開發(fā)一種能幫助我們的客戶在護膚配方設計中選擇合適的卡開發(fā)一種能幫助我們的客戶在護膚配方設計中選擇合適的卡波聚合物的工具波聚合物的工具了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮膚上的性能表現(xiàn)了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮膚上的性能表現(xiàn)的基本區(qū)別的基本區(qū)別 內(nèi)容內(nèi)容凝膠及乳液配方條件下的數(shù)據(jù)總結包括：凝膠及乳液配方條件下的數(shù)據(jù)總結包括

2、：基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流變基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流變性能性能 ，感官性能評估，感官性能評估流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的聯(lián)系流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的聯(lián)系應用配方舉例應用配方舉例 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved4PartIngredientsINCI% WeightACarbopol Ultrez 10 polymerCarbomer0.23 Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer

3、Acrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.60 Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.23 Carbopol 940 polymerCarbomer 0.20 Carbopol 980 polymerCarbomer 0.25 Carbopol 934 polymerCarbomer0.45Deionized Water Qs to 100BTEA(99%)TriethanolamineQS to pH = 6.0 6.5CGlyd

4、ant Plus LiquidDMDM Hydantoin (&) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.400.400.400.400.400.40 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved5U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol

5、934 polymer (mPaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved6U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved7U10

6、= Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved8Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物表現(xiàn)出最好的耐離子性聚合物表現(xiàn)出最好的耐離子性 較高的粘度較高的屈服值優(yōu)異的透明度在離子濃度較低時，在離子濃度較

7、低時，Carbopol 934和和980聚合物表現(xiàn)出較好聚合物表現(xiàn)出較好的耐離子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相對較高的耐離子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相對較高 Carbopol 980聚合物大于80%透過率的透明度Carbopol 934的透明度相對較低Carbopol Ultrez 10, Ultrez 21 和和940聚合物在凝膠配方體系聚合物在凝膠配方體系里有中等的耐離子性里有中等的耐離子性 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved9Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol Cor

8、poration 2008, all rights reserved10Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved110.10001.00010.00100.01000osc. stress (Pa)0.0100.1001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer + NaClCarbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer + NaClCarbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer + NaClCarbopol 940

9、 Polymer + NaClCarbopol 980 Polymer + NaClCarbopol 934 Polymer + NaCl0.10001.00010.00100.01000osc. stress (Pa)0.0100.1001.00010.00100.01000G彈性模量彈性模量 (Pa.s)Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer CarbopolUltrez 20 polymerCarbopol Ultrez 21Polymer Carbopol 940 PolymerCarbopol 980 PolymerCarbopol 934 Polymer 屈服應力Re

10、st plateauRest plateau屈服應力G彈性模量彈性模量 (Pa.s) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved12當體系含有當體系含有0.05%的鹽時，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波的鹽時，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波聚合物聚合物 表現(xiàn)出不同的流變行為：含耐離子性較強的聚合表現(xiàn)出不同的流變行為：含耐離子性較強的聚合物的凝膠體系擁有更高的抵抗形變的能力。物的凝膠體系擁有更高的抵抗形變的能力。Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物顯示了相對較硬的彈性結構聚合物顯示了相對較硬的彈性結構無論剪切速率的高低，它都表現(xiàn)出較慢的形變

11、反應。無論剪切速率的高低，它都表現(xiàn)出較慢的形變反應。Carbopol Ultrez 10和和Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物表現(xiàn)為相對較低的粘聚合物表現(xiàn)為相對較低的粘度度無論剪切速率的高低，兩者都對剪切表現(xiàn)為較高的形變。無論剪切速率的高低，兩者都對剪切表現(xiàn)為較高的形變。Carbopol 980和和934聚合物在聚合物在應力的動態(tài)振蕩下表現(xiàn)出了彈性應力的動態(tài)振蕩下表現(xiàn)出了彈性相對相對Carbopol Ultrez 10和和21聚合物而言，它們擁有更長的彈性聚合物而言，它們擁有更長的彈性模量保持時間。模量保持時間。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all r

12、ights reserved13HSD95*有顯著不同* The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved14最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后膚感涂后膚感HighLowIntensity(Average Rank) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved15數(shù)據(jù)由數(shù)據(jù)由專家小組排序法而來專家小組排序法而來Light Heavy Wet Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Ultrez 1

13、0 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20CarbopolCarbopol Polymers PolymersUltrez 10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerUltrez 21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymerUltrez 20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved16Carbopol Ultrez 20聚合物提供奢華、厚稠的膚感，適用于感聚合物提供奢華、厚稠的膚

14、感，適用于感覺豐厚、富有彈性，非水感的凝膠配方。覺豐厚、富有彈性，非水感的凝膠配方。Carbopol Ultrez 10和和 and and Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物在最初的涂聚合物在最初的涂抹時能提供十分清新的膚感，適用于清爽型配方。抹時能提供十分清新的膚感，適用于清爽型配方。 Carbopol 980聚合物的膚感介于上述兩者之間，在最初涂抹聚合物的膚感介于上述兩者之間，在最初涂抹時擁有輕微的時擁有輕微的彈性并且膚感滑爽。適用于中等或偏向感覺彈性并且膚感滑爽。適用于中等或偏向感覺豐厚的配方，同時用后不粘膩。豐厚的配方，同時用后不粘膩。 The Lubrizol Corpor

15、ation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved18Part Trade NameINCI% weightACarbopol Ultrez 10 polymerCarbomer0.40 Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.75 Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

16、0.38 Carbopol 940 polymerCarbomer 0.30 Carbopol 980 polymerCarbomer 0.40 Carbopol 934 polymerCarbomer 0.50Deionized Water Q.S. to 100BC1215 Alkyl BenzoateC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate10.0010.0010.0010.0010.0010.00Cremophor A6Ceteareth-6 and Stearyl Alcohol1.801.801.801.801.801.80CremophorA25Ceteareth-251.20

17、1.201.201.201.201.20CTEA (99%)TriethanolamineQS to pH = 6.0 6.5DGlydant Plus LiquidDMDM Hydantoin (&) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.400.400.400.400.400.40 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved19Carbopol Ultrez 20U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbop

18、ol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved200.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer + NaClCarbopolUltrez 2

19、1 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol 940Polymer + NaCl Carbopol980 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol934 Polymer + NaCl 0.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer Carbopol Ultrez 20 PolymerCarbopol Ultrez 21 PolymerCarbopol 940 polymerCarbopol 980 polymerCarbopol 934 Poly

20、mer幾乎類似的幾乎類似的流變曲線流變曲線不同的不同的流變曲線流變曲線Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved21Carbopol Ultrez 20Without NaClWith 0.05 wt% NaCl The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved22HSD95* The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved23最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后膚感涂后膚感HighLo

21、wIntensity(Average Rating) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved24Light Heavy Wet Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Carbopol PolymersUltrez 10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerUltrez 21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymerUltrez 20 = Ca

22、rbopol Ultrez 20 polymerLight HeavyLow residual feel High residual feel Non-lingering afterfeel Lingering afterfeelUltrez 10 980 Ultrez 21 Ultrez 20Carbopol Polymers最初至中期涂抹階段最初至中期涂抹階段涂抹中期到涂后膚感階段涂抹中期到涂后膚感階段數(shù)據(jù)由專家小組打分法而來數(shù)據(jù)由專家小組打分法而來 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved25在相對復雜的乳液體系中，卡波聚合物仍

23、舊能夠提供不同在相對復雜的乳液體系中，卡波聚合物仍舊能夠提供不同的膚感影響的膚感影響Carbopol Ultrez 20聚合物聚合物提供奢華、豐厚的涂抹感，擁提供奢華、豐厚的涂抹感，擁有較重的涂后膚感。有較重的涂后膚感。Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物聚合物提供輕質(zhì)溶化般的涂抹感，以提供輕質(zhì)溶化般的涂抹感，以及中等到清爽的涂后膚感。及中等到清爽的涂后膚感。Carbopol Ultrez 10聚合物聚合物提供清新、易抹開的涂抹感，提供清新、易抹開的涂抹感，以及清爽的涂后膚感。以及清爽的涂后膚感。Carbopol 980聚合物聚合物提供輕質(zhì)、滋潤的涂抹感，以及絲提供輕質(zhì)、滋潤的涂抹感，以

24、及絲滑的涂后膚感。滑的涂后膚感。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved凝膠及乳液體系 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved27粘著感粘著感 Cohesiveness*將產(chǎn)品放在兩指之間，分開兩指的力量感越大，粘著感越強。*臨界屈服應力臨界屈服應力 定義：最小的能使體系產(chǎn)生流動的應力。屈服應力越高，配方的粘著感越強。（Yield Stress vs. Cohesiveness） The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights rese

25、rved28Carbopol Polymers Yield Stress (Pa.)(with NaCl)Cohesiveness (Mean)Ultrez 100.01561.05Ultrez 210.02302.009400.03233.759800.03684.509340.03894.63Ultrez 200.04234.87粘著感高的凝膠更趨于粘在一起，要求更高的屈服應力粘著感高的凝膠更趨于粘在一起，要求更高的屈服應力來破解凝膠的結構。來破解凝膠的結構。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved29粘度粘度流體在剪切應力下抵

26、抗形變產(chǎn)生的能力。通常被理解為厚度或?qū)α鲃拥牡挚钩潭?。厚稠感厚稠? (粘稠度粘稠度) )涂抹時在手指和皮膚間能感受到的產(chǎn)品的量。感受的到量越高，產(chǎn)品厚稠感越強。數(shù)值越低，產(chǎn)品感覺相對清爽，容易涂抹。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved30Carbopol Polymers Max. Vis.( PaS)(Near Zero)With NaClCushion(Mean-Rating)Ultrez 10349.03.34Ultrez 21475.63.85940130.33.48980270.43.82934186.23.80Ul

27、trez 20713.85.05Max. Viscosity (PaS) (Low Shear Rate)乳液豐厚的涂抹感覺一般來自于乳液豐厚的涂抹感覺一般來自于產(chǎn)品產(chǎn)品最初的厚度最初的厚度和對剪切變稀的抵抗力。和對剪切變稀的抵抗力。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved31卡波聚合物極大的影響了凝膠或乳液配方的流變性能和感卡波聚合物極大的影響了凝膠或乳液配方的流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)；不同的卡波聚合物能提供不同的膚感和涂抹時的官表現(xiàn)；不同的卡波聚合物能提供不同的膚感和涂抹時的流變特征。流變特征。雖然乳液產(chǎn)品中的其它成分對其整體的膚感有

28、影響，但基雖然乳液產(chǎn)品中的其它成分對其整體的膚感有影響，但基于卡波聚合物建立起來的流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的聯(lián)系對于于卡波聚合物建立起來的流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的聯(lián)系對于乳液和凝膠都能成立。乳液和凝膠都能成立。這些能夠聯(lián)系涂抹時的流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的初步結果可這些能夠聯(lián)系涂抹時的流變性能和感官表現(xiàn)的初步結果可以幫助配方師選擇正確的卡波聚合物來滿足凝膠或乳液配以幫助配方師選擇正確的卡波聚合物來滿足凝膠或乳液配方的基本膚感要求。方的基本膚感要求。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008,

29、 all rights reserved33項目概述項目概述: :開發(fā)兩個含有植物活性及美白成分的配方，其市場宣稱如下：清爽的補水乳液，能很快的涂抹開，白天使用，作為護膚乳液或爽膚水。護膚乳液精華素，涂抹時間較長，最初的涂抹感為中等偏向較為豐富的不粘膩的感覺。作為晚霜使用，提供修復及滋養(yǎng)的護膚作用。要求條件要求條件: :兩個配方含有等量的傳統(tǒng)中藥成分。采用等量的卡波聚合物成分。產(chǎn)品的目標規(guī)格：pH 5.5粘度 12,00018,000 mPaS The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved34Refreshing Skin Hydrato

30、r F0078 (AP)Refreshing Skin Hydrator F0078 (AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%Weight%WeightSpecificationSpecificationA1.Deionized water Diluent89.41pH 5.25-5.752.Disodium EDTAChelating Agent0.02Viscosity (mPas) S# 612,000-18,0003Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10 PolymerRheology Mod

31、ifier0.35Yield Value(dyn/cm2)500-7004.Methyl gluceth-20Glucam E-20 humectantHumectant1.00StabilityPassed (45C/25C/5 freeze-thaw cycles)B5.Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate Schercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone (and) cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer (Velvesil DM)Velvesil DMFilm Former0.307

32、.Methyl glucose sesquistearate Glucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate Glucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sodium hydroxide (18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Licorice Ro

33、ot 607646Botanical: Skin Brightener0.4012.Chrysanthemum indicum flower extract,propylene glycol, water Extrapone Wild ChrysanthemumBotanical: Calming0.3013.Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone HoneysuckleBotanical: Soothing0.3014.Deionized waterDiluent3.00

34、E15Phenoxyehthanol, methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-, (and) IsobutylparabenPhenonipPreservative0.50 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved35Hydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F- 0082(AP)Hydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F- 0082(AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%Weight%We

35、ightSpecificationSpecificationA1.Deionized water Diluent89.41pH 5.25-5.752.Disodium EDTAChelating Agent0.02Viscosity (mPas) S# 614,000-18,0003Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerCarbopol Ultrez 20 PolymerRheology Modifier0.35Yield Value(dyn/cm2)720-9004.Methyl gluceth-20Glucam E-20 humectant

36、Humectant1.00StabilityPassed (45C/25C/5 freeze-thaw cycles)B5.Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoateSchercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone (and) cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer (Velvesil DM)Velvesil DMFilm Former0.307.Methyl glucose sesquistearateGlucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PEG-20 met

37、hyl glucose sesquistearate Glucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sodium hydroxide (18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Licorice Root ExtractBotanical: Skin Brightener0.4012.Chrysanthemum indicum flower extrac

38、t,propylene glycol, water Extrapone Wild Chrysanthemum Botanical: Calming0.3013.Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Honeysuckle Botanical: Soothing0.3014.Deionized waterDiluent3.00E15Phenoxyethanol, methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-, (and) Isobutylparaben (Phe

39、nonip)PhenonipPreservative0.50 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved360.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000viscosity (Pas) Refreshing skin hydrator Hydrating sleep-on serum霜膚水含Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer剪切變稀，易涂抹，粘度較低，感覺更為清新。精華素含Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer較高的粘度

40、，剪切變稀，厚稠的膚感Slight increase in viscosityfurther signifies increase in resistance (richness)With 0.05 wt%NaCl The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved37AcknowledgmentAcknowledgmentl Dan Hasmanl Liu Xinl Christina Hel Kwe Sung Tjol Jeff Careyl Gary Yaol Rain Shen The Lubrizol Corporation 2008

41、, all rights reserved38Allusion is a trademark of Antaria Ltd.Arlacel and Brij are trademarks of Croda Inc.Carbopol, and Noveon are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Glucam, Glucate,Glucamate, Promulgen, and Schercemol are trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Cremophor is registere

42、d trademark of BASF Corporation.Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.Extrapone is a registered trademark of Symrise CompanyGlydant Plus is a registered trademark of Lonza Group Ltd.Keltrol is a registered trademark of Huber CompanyLiposphere is a trademark of Lipo Technologies Inc.Merquat is a registered trademark of Nalco CompanyNaturechem is a registered trademark of Vertellus Performance Inc.Phenonip is a registered trademark of Clariant CompanyTimiron is a registered trademark of Merck KGaA. The