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wicking,chemicalorelectrostaticaction.

Monk'sCloth

Aheavyweightcottonfabricutilizingthebasketweavevariationoftheplainweave.Usedfordraperiesandslipcovers,monk'sclothisanexampleof4x4basketweave.Ithaspoordimensionalstabilityandtendstosnag.

Monofilament

Asinglefilamentofamanufacturedfiber,usuallymadeinadenierhigherthan14.Monofilamentsareusuallyspunsingularly,ratherthanextrudedasagroupoffilamentsthroughaspinneretandspunintoayarn.End-usesincludehosieryandsewingthread.

Muslin

Aninexpensive,mediumweight,plainweave,lowcount(lessthan160threadspersquareinch)cottonsheetingfabric.Initsunfinishedform,itiscommonlyusedinfashiondesigntomaketrialgarmentsforpreliminaryfit.

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N

Nainsook

Alightweightplainweavecottonfabric,usuallyfinishedtocreatealusterandasofthand.Commonend-usesareinfants'wear,blouses,andlingerie.

Nap

Afuzzy,fur-likefeelcreatedwhenfiberendsextendfromthebasicfabricstructuretothefabricsurface.Thefabriccanbenappedoneitheroneorbothsides.

Net

Anopenfabric,whichiscreatedbyconnectingtheintersectionsinawoven,knitted,orcrochetedconstructiontoformamesh-likeappearancethatwon'travel.End-usesincludeveils,curtains,andfishnets.

Ninon

Alightweight,plainweave,madeofsilkormanufacturedfibers,withanopenmesh-likeappearance.Sincethefabricismadewithhightwistfilamentyarns,ithasacrisphand.Endusesincludeeveningwearandcurtains.

NonwovenFabric

Fabricsmadedirectlyfromindividualfibersthataremattedtogetherbyforminganinterlockingweboffiberseithermechanically(tanglingtogether)orchemically(gluing,bonding,ormeltingtogether).

NoveltyYarn

Ayarnthatisintentionallyproducedtohaveaspecialoruniqueeffect.Theseeffectscanbeproducedbytwistingtogetherunevensingleyarns,byusingyarnsthatcontainirregularities,orbytwistingyarnsthatcontainacolorvariance.Aslubbedyarnisanexampleofanoveltyyarn.

Nylon

Producedin1938,thefirstcompletelysyntheticfiberdeveloped.Knownforitshighstrengthandexcellentresilience,nylonhassuperiorabrasionresistanceandhighflexibility.

Nytril

Amanufacturedfiber,mostoftenusedinsweatersorpilefabrics,wherelittleornopressingisrecommended,asthefiberhasalowsofteningormeltingpoint.However,ithasalsobeensuccessfullyusedinblendswithwoolforthepurposeofminimizingshrinkageandimprovingtheshaperetentioningarments.

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O

Olefin(alsoknownaspolyolefinandpolypropylene)

Amanufacturedfibercharacterizedbyitslightweight,highstrength,andabrasionresistance.Olefinisalsogoodattransportingmoisture,creatingawickingaction.End-usesincludeactivewearapparel,rope,indoor-outdoorcarpets,lawnfurniture,andupholstery.

Organdy

Astiffened,sheer,lightweightplainweavefabric,withamediumtohighyarncount.End-usesincludeblouses,dresses,andcurtains/draperies.

Organza

Acrisp,sheer,lightweightplainweavefabric,withamediumtohighyarncount,madeofsilk,rayon,nylon,orpolyester.Thefabricisusedprimarilyineveningandweddingapparelforwomen.

Osnaburg

Atoughmediumtoheavyweightcoarselywovenplainweavefabric,usuallymadeofacottonorcotton/polyblend.Lowergradesoftheunfinishedfabricareusedforsuchindustrialpurposesasbags,sacks,pipecoverings.Highergradesoffinishedosnaburgcanbefoundinmattressticking,slipcovers,workwear,andapparel.

Ottoman

Atightlywovenplainweaveribbedfabricwithahardslightlylusteredsurface.Theribbedeffectiscreatedbyweavingafinersilkormanufacturedwarpyarnwithaheavierfilleryarn,usuallymadeofcotton,wool,orwasteyarn.Intheconstruction,theheavierfilleryarniscompletelycoveredbythewarpyarn,thuscreatingtheribbedeffect.Endusesforthisfabricincludecoats,suits,dresses,upholstery,anddraperies.

Oxford

Afine,soft,lightweightwovencottonorblendedwithmanufacturedfibersina2x1basketweavevariationoftheplainweaveconstruction.Thefabricisusedprimarilyinshirtings.

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P

Paisley

Atear-dropshaped,fancyprintedpattern,usedindresses,blouses,andmen'sties.

PannéVelvet

Atypeoflustrous,lightweightvelvetfabric,usuallymadeofsilkoramanufacturedfiber,inwhichthepilehasbeenflattenedinonedirection.

PeaudeSoie

Aheavytwillweavedrapeablesatinfabric,madeofsilkoramanufacturedfiber,andusedforbridalgownsandeveningwear.

Percale

Amediumweight,plainweave,lowtomediumcount(180to250threadspersquareinch)cotton-likefabric.End-usesincludesheets,blouses,anddresses.

PileKnit

Atypeofknitconstructionwhichutilizesaspecialyarnorasliverthatisinterloopedintoastandardknitbase.Thisconstructionisusedintheformationofimitationfurfabrics,inspeciallinersforcoldweatherapparelsuchasjacketsandcoats,andinsomefloorcoverings.Whileanybasicknitstitchmaybeusedforthebaseofpileknits,themostcommonisthejerseystitch.

PileWeave

Atypeofdecorativeweaveinwhichapileisformedbyadditionalwarporfillingyarnsinterlacedinsuchawaythatloopsareformedonthesurfaceorfaceofthefabric.Theloopsmaybeleftuncut,ortheymaybecuttoexposeyarnendsandproducecutpilefabric.

Pill

Atangledballoffibersthatappearsonthesurfaceofafabric,asaresultofwearorcontinuedfrictionorrubbingonthesurfaceofthefabric.

Piqué

Amedium-weightfabric,eitherknitorwoven,withraiseddobbydesignsincludingcords,wales,waffles,orpatterns.Wovenversionshavecordsrunninglengthwise,orinthewarpdirection.Knittedversionsaredouble-knitfabricconstructions,createdonmulti-feedcircularknittingmachines.

PlainWeave

Abasicweave,utilizingasimplealternateinterlacingofwarpandfillingyarns.Anytypeofyarnmadefromanytypeoffibercanbemanufacturedintoaplainweavefabric.

PliedYarn

Atwistingtogetheroftwoormoresingleyarnsinoneoperation.

Plissé

Alightweight,plainweave,fabric,madefromcotton,rayon,oracetate,andcharacterizedbyapuckeredstripedeffect,usuallyinthewarpdirection.Thecrinkledeffectiscreatedthroughtheapplicationofacausticsodasolution,whichshrinksthefabricintheareasofthefabricwhereitisapplied.Plisséissimilarinappearancetoseersucker.End-usesincludedresses,shirtings,pajamas,andbedspreads.

Polyester

Amanufacturedfiberintroducedintheearly1950s,andissecondonlytocottoninworldwideuse.Polyesterhashighstrength(althoughsomewhatlowerthannylon),excellentresiliency,andhighabrasionresistance.Lowabsorbencyallowsthefibertodryquickly.

Polypropylene(alsoknownaspolyolefinandOlefin)

Amanufacturedfibercharacterizedbyitslightweight,highstrength,andabrasionresistance.Polypropyleneisalsogoodattransportingmoisture,creatingawickingaction.End-usesincludeactivewearapparel,rope,indoor-outdoorcarpets,lawnfurniture,andupholstery.

Pongee

Themostcommonformisanaturallycoloredlightweight,plainweave,silk-likefabricwithaslubbedeffect.End-usesincludeblouses,dresses,etc.

Poplin

Afabricmadeusingaribvariationoftheplainweave.Theconstructionischaracterizedbyhavingaslightridgeeffectinonedirection,usuallythefilling.Poplinusedtobeassociatedwithcasualclothing,butasthe"worldofwork"hasbecomemorerelaxed,thisfabrichasdevelopedintoastapleofmen'swardrobes,beingusedfrequentlyincasualtrousers.

PurlStitch

Abasicstitchusedinweftknitting,whichproducesknitfabricsthathavethesameappearanceonbothsides.Thepurlstitchisfrequentlyusedincombinationwiththejerseyandribstitchestoproduceaknittedfabricdesign.Sweaters,knittedfabricsforinfantsandchildren'swear,knittedfabricsforspecializedsportswear,andbulkyknitfabricsarecommonlymadeusingthepurlstitch.

Resiliency

Theabilityofafabrictospringbacktoitsoriginalshapeafterbeingtwisted,crushed,wrinkled,ordistortedinanyway.

Rip-stopNylon

Alightweight,windresistant,andwaterresistantplainweavefabric.Largeribyarnsstoptearswithoutaddingexcessweighttoactivesportswearapparelandoutdoorequipmentsuchassleepingbagsandtents.

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S

Sailcloth

Anyheavy,plain-weavecanvasfabric,usuallymadeofcotton,linen,polyester,jute,nylon,etc.thatisusedforsailsandapparel(i.e.bottomweightsportswear).

SaranFiber

Amanufacturedfiberwhichhasanexcellentresistancetosunlightandweathering,andisusedinlawnfurniture,upholstery,andcarpets.

SateenFabric

Afabricmadefromyarnswithlowluster,suchascottonorotherstaplelengthfibers.Thefabrichasasoft,smoothhandandagentle,subtleluster.Sateenfabricsareoftenusedfordraperiesandupholstery.

SateenWeave

Avariationofthesatinweave,producedbyfloatingfillyarnsoverwarpyarns.

SatinFabric

Atraditionalfabricutilizingasatinweaveconstructiontoachievealustrousfabricsurface.Satinisatraditionalfabricforeveningandweddinggarments.Typicalexamplesofsatinweavefabricsinclude:slippersatin,crepe-backsatin,faillesatin,bridalsatin,moleskin,andantiquesatin.

SatinWeave

Abasicweave,characterizedbylongfloatsofyarnonthefaceofthefabric.Theyarnsareinterlacedinsuchamannerthatthereisnodefinite,visiblepatternofinterlacingand,inthismanner,asmoothandsomewhatshinysurfaceeffectisachieved.Theshinysurfaceeffectisfurtherincreasedthroughtheuseofhighlusterfilamentfibersinyarnswhichalsohavealowamountoftwist.Atruesatinweavefabricalwayshasthewarpyarnsfloatingoverfillingyarns.

Seersucker

Awovenfabricwhichincorporatesmodificationoftensioncontrol.Intheproductionofseersucker,someofthewarpyarnsareheldundercontrolledtensionatalltimesduringtheweaving,whileotherwarpyarnsareinarelaxedstateandtendtopuckerwhenthefillingyarnsareplaced.Theresultproducesapuckeredstripeeffectinthefabric.Seersuckeristraditionallymadeintosummersportswearsuchasshirts,trousers,andinformalsuits.

SelvageorSelvedge

Thethincompressededgeofawovenfabricwhichrunsparalleltothewarpyarnsandpreventsraveling.Itisusuallywoven,utilizingtougheryarnsandatighterconstructionthantherestofthefabric.

Serge

Afabricwithasmoothhandthatiscreatedbyatwo-up,two-downtwillweave.

Serging

Anovercastingtechniquedoneonthecutedgeofafabrictopreventraveling.

Shantung

Amedium-weight,plainweavefabric,characterizedbyaribbedeffect,resultingfromslubbedyarnsusedinthewarporfillingdirection.End-usesincludedressesandsuits.

Sharkskin

Ahard-finished,lowlustered,medium-weightfabricinatwill-weaveconstruction.Itismostcommonlyfoundinmen'sworstedsuitings;however,itcanalsobefoundinaplain-weaveconstructionofacetate,triacetate,andrayonforwomen'ssportswear.</FONT

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Silk

Anaturalfilamentfiberproducedbythesilkwormintheconstructionofitscocoon.Mostsilkiscollectedfromcultivatedworms;Tussahsilk,orwildsilk,isathicker,shorterfiberproducedbywormsintheirnaturalhabitat.AllsilkcomesfromAsia,primarilyChina.

Sisal

AstrongbastfiberthatoriginatesfromtheleavesoftheAgaveplant,whichisfoundintheWestIndies,CentralAmerica,andAfrica.End-usesincludecordageandtwine.

Solution-dyed

Atypeoffiberdyeinginwhichcoloredpigmentsareinjectedintothespinningsolutionpriortotheextrusionofthefiberthroughthespinneret.Fibersandyarnscoloredinthismannerarecolor-fasttomostdestructiveagents.

SpandexFiber

Amanufacturedelastomericfiberthatcanberepeatedlystretchedover500%withoutbreaking,andwillstillrecovertoitsoriginallength.

Spinneret

Ametalnozzletypedevicewithveryfineholesusedinthespinningprocessofmanufacturedfibers.Thespinningsolutionisforcedorextrudedthroughthesmallholestoformcontinuousfilamentfibers.Theholesinthespinneretcanvaryindiametertoproducefibersofvariousdenier.

SpotWeave

Awovenconstructioninwhichpatternsarebuiltinatspacedintervalsthroughtheuseofextrawarpand/orextrafillyarnsareplacedinselectedareas.TheseyarnsarewovenintothefabricbymeansofadobbyorJacquardattachment.

SpunYarn

Ayarnmadebytakingagroupofshortstaplefibers,whichhavebeencutfromthelongercontinuousfilamentfibers,andthentwistingtheseshortstaplefiberstogethertoformasingleyarn,whichisthenusedforweavingorknittingfabrics.

StapleFibers

Shortfibers,typicallyrangingfrom1/2inchupto18incheslong.Wool,cotton,andflaxexistonlyasstaplefibers.Manufacturedstaplefibersarecuttoaspecificlengthfromthecontinuousfilamentfiber.Usuallythestaplefiberiscutinlengthsrangingfrom1-1/2inchesto8incheslong.Agroupofstaplefibersaretwistedtogethertoformayarn,whichisthenwovenorknitintofabrics.

Surah

Alightweight,lustroustwillweaveconstructedfabricwithasilk-likehand.Surahisthefabricofties,dresses,andfurnishings.Itisavailableinsilk,polyester,andrayon.

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T

Taffeta

Alustrous,mediumweight,plainweavefabricwithaslightribbedappearanceinthefilling(crosswise)direction.Forformalwear,taffetaisafavoritechoice.Itprovidesacrisphand,withlotsofbody.Silktaffetagivestheultimaterustle,butotherfibersarealsogoodchoices.

Tapestry

Aheavy,oftenhand-woven,ribbedfabric,featuringanelaboratedesigndepictingahistoricalorcurrentpictorialdisplay.Theweft-facedfabricdesignismadebyusingcoloredfillingyarns,onlyinareaswhereneeded,thatareworkedbackandforthoverspunwarpyarns,whicharevisibleontheback.End-usesincludewallhangingsandupholstery.

TensionControlWeave

Atypeofdecorativeweave,characterizedbyapuckeredeffectwhichoccursbecausethetensioninthewarpyarnsisintentionallyvariedbeforethefillingyarnsareplacedinthefabric.

TerryCloth

Atypicaluncutpileweavefabric.Thisfabricisformedbyusingtwosetsofwarpyarns.Onesetofwarpyarnsisunderverylittletension;whenthefillingyarnsarepackedintoplace,theselooseyarnsarepushedbackwardalongwiththefillingyarns,andloopsareformed.Typicalusesincludetowels,robes,andapparel.

TerryVelour

Apileweavecottonfabricwithanuncutpileononesideandacutpileonthereverseside.Terryvelourisvaluedforitssoft,luxurioushand.Typicalusesincludetowels,robes,andapparel.

Ticking

Atightlywoven,verydurablefabric,usuallymadeofcotton,andusedforcoveringmattresses,boxsprings,pillows,andworkclothes.Thefabriccanbemadebyusingaplain,satin,ortwillweaveconstruction.

Triacetate

Amanufacturedfiber,whichlikeacetate,ismadebymodifyingcellulose.However,evenmoreacetategroupshavebeenaddedtocreatethisfiber.Triacetateislessabsorbentandlesssensitivetohightemperaturesthanacetate.Itcanbehandormachinewashedandtumbledried,withrelativelygoodwrinklerecovery.

TricotKnit

Awarpknitfabricinwhichthefabricisformedbyinterloopingadjacentparallelyarns.Thewarpbeamholdsthousandsofyardsofyarnsinaparallelarrangement,andtheseyarnsarefedintotheknittingareasimultaneously.Sufficientyarnstoproducethefinalfabricwidthandlengthareonthebeam.Tricotknitsarefrequentlyusedinwomen'slingerieitemssuchasslips,bras,panties,andnightgowns.

Tulle

Alightweight,extremelyfine,machine-madenetting,usuallywithahexagonshapedmesheffect.End-usesincludedancecostumesandveils.

Tweed

Amediumtoheavyweight,fluffy,woolen,twillweavefabriccontainingcoloredslubbedyarns.Commonend-usesincludecoatsandsuits.

TwillWeave

Abasicweaveinwhichthefabricsareconstructedbyinterlacingwarpandfillingyarnsinaprogressivealternationwhichcreatesadiagonaleffectontheface,orrightside,ofthefabric.Insometwillweavefabrics,thediagonaleffectmayalsobeseenclearlyonthebacksideofthefabric.

Twist

Atermthatappliestothenumberofturnsandthedirectionthattwoyarnsareturnedduringthemanufacturingprocess.Theyarntwistbringsthefibersclosetogetherandmakesthemcompact.Ithelpsthefibersadheretooneanother,increasingyarnstrength.Thedirectionandamountofyarntwisthelpsdetermineappearance,performance,durabilityofbothyarnsandthesubsequentfabricortextileproduct.Singleyarnsmaybetwistedtotheright(Stwist)ortotheleft(Ztwist).Generally,woolenandworstedyarnsareS-twist,whilecottonandflaxyarnsaretypicallyZ-twist.Twistisgenerallyexpressedasturnsperinch(tpi),turnspermeter(tpm),orturnspercentimeter(tpc).

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U

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V

Velour

Amediumweight,closelywovenfabricwithathickpile.Itcanbemadeusingeitheraplainweaveorasatinweaveconstruction.Itresemblesvelvet,buthasalowercutpile.Endusesincludeapparel,upholstery,anddrapes.

Velvet

Amediumweightcut-pileconstructedfabricinwhichthecutpilestandsupverystraight.Itiswovenusingtwosetsofwarpyarns;theextrasetcreatesthepile.Velvet,aluxuriousfabric,iscommonlymadewithafilamentfiberforhighlusterandsmoothhand.

Velveteen

Acottoncut-pileweavefabric,utilizingextrafillyarnconstruction,witheitheratwilloraplainweaveback.Thefabriciswovenwithtwosetsoffillingyarns;theextrasetcreatesthepile.

Viscose

Themostcommontypeofrayon.Itisproducedinmuchgreaterquantitythancuprammoniumrayon,theothercommercialtype.

Voile

Acrisp,lightweight,plainweavecotton-likefabric,madewithhightwistyarnsinahighyarncountconstruction.Similarinappearancetoorgandyandorganza.Usedinblousesdressesandcurtains.

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W

Warp

Inwovenfabric,theyarnsthatrunlengthwiseandisinterwovenwiththefill(weft)yarns.

WarpKnit

Atypeofknittedfabricconstructioninwhichtheyarnsareformedintostitchesinalengthwisemanner.Warpknitsaregenerallylesselasticthanweftknits.C