梭織服裝英文.docx

服裝英語QA指引 2008-01-05 10:14 1 月5日 服裝英語QA指引女裝梳織 QA 指引 - SP0RTSWEAR GENERAL : 概括 11 Bulk fabric s/b submit to lab with care instruction and test under Nautica requirement. 大貨布料應提供給測試室并通過試驗以符合的要求2 Bulk garment s/b submit to Lab and test under Nautica requirement. 大貨制成品應提供給測試室并通過試驗以符合NAUTICA的要求3 PCC precision interlining m/b used in there are certain area is needed and those interlining is approved by our NYO. 在成衣上有個別地方需要PCC 樸布的，樸布應該是紐約客戶所批準使用的類形4 Button with wording quotNauticaquot m/b set on top and bottom to fix one direction. 鈕面上有quotNAUTICAquot字，字體一定要固定在鈕的上頂和下方，不可以在左右兩側5 Cross stitching for fixing 4 holes button and with thread locked. 4 孔鈕是交叉縫線和鈕腳線一定要牢固鎖結好6 2 holes button and leg button with 1 hole m/b have thread locked. 兩孔鈕和單腳單孔鈕的鈕腳線一定要牢固鎖結好7 Shank snap rivet and etc. with quotJ-Classquot m/b set on top to fix one direction. 工字鈕，喼鈕，撞釘和 其他種類表面有quotJ-Classquot的標記，quotJ-Classquot的標記一定是朝向上的方向8 Suitable tension to attach shank snap eyelet gripper and rivet to keep top surface no damage and tight fixed. 工字鈕，喼鈕，雞眼，五爪鈕和撞釘 的模具要調較合適的松緊度以避免損壞鈕的表面和牢固地扣合好9 Eyelet snap amp gripper for both male amp female m/b have plastic pvc ring supported at underneath and ring size s/b a bit smallerespecially on single layer amp thin fabric. 雞眼，喼鈕和五爪鈕的公鈕底和母鈕底要配落塑膠指環(huán)，塑膠指環(huán)的尺碼要比面鈕略為細小一點在單層的布和薄身布料是必需要的10 To avoid clip mark all hanger clip insided m/b have soft rubber. 所有衣架的內夾中一定是軟塑膠制造，以防止成衣留下夾痕11 For quotNautica Women Pants Skirt Short Bottomquot center front zipper fly opening s/b ladys style or appointed by buyer. quotNAUTICA 女庒褲，裙子和短褲的下身quot 前中開拉煉是女庒款式，或客人指定之款式12 To avoid soilage when during bulk production especially on light colour fabric. 在大貨生產過程中要小心污漬問題，淺顏色布料要特別注意 CUTTING : 剪裁1 For quotNautica Women Denim Jean Bottomquot center front zipper fly opening s/b mens style or appointed by buyer. quotNAUTICA 女庒牛仔布料的下身quot 前中開拉煉是男庒款式，或客人指定之款式2 Two way cut m/b one way in one garment for all items. 所有雙向裁剪方法的款式，同一件成衣內的布順向應該是朝著同一個方向剪裁的3 Two way cut m/b one way in one garment in corduroy product. 燈芯絨布如果可以用雙向裁剪方法的，需要同一件成衣內的布毛順向必需是朝著同一個方向剪裁的4 Corduroy in one way cut the nap direction m/b appointed by buyer. 燈芯絨布如果有指定是單向裁剪的制造方法，布毛的順向應該是由客戶指定的為正確5 One way cut for velour nap direction m/b appointed by buyer. 絲絨布是指定單向裁剪制造的，布毛的順向應該是由客戶指定的為正確6 Bias cut m/b in 45 degree in marker drawing. 縱紋剪裁方法，排圖要用準確的45度來排列紙板的7 Stripe and plaid pattern m/b match on center front center back side seams inseam center front waistband and center back waistband. pay attention on marker drawing. 條子和格子布的款式，前中，后中，兩邊側骨，內長，前中褲頭和后中褲頭的條子和格子一定要相對稱在排圖的時候要特別注意8 Stripe and plaid pattern bias cut m/b match on center front center back side seams pay attention on marker drawing. 條子和格子布的款式如果是縱紋裁剪，前中，后中，兩邊側骨的條子和格子一定要相對稱在排圖的時候要特別注意9 Stripe and plaid pattern collar and collar stand m/b even and match in center front edge.pay attention on marker drawing and sewing. 條子和格子布的款式，上級領子和下級領子要相等稱，條子和格子在前中要相對稱在排圖和車縫的時候要特別注意10 Strip and plaid pattern on sleeve sleeve cuff and sleeve placket m/b in pair and in one direction match to body.pay attention on marker drawing. 條子和格子布的款式，袖子，袖級和袖側要對配和相等對稱的，并排列同大身同一順向在排圖的時候要特別注意11 Stripe and plaid pattern the row on middle of armhole m/b match to sleeve.pay attention on marker drawing and on sewing. 條子和格子布的款式，在夾圈居中的條子或格子要跟袖子配對在排圖和車縫的時候要特別注意12 Stripe and plaid pattern patch pocket m/b fully match in horizontal amp vertical to body and pair of pocket m/b matching.pay attention on marker drawing and on sewing. 條子和格子布的款式，條子和格子貼代的橫向和直向都要跟大身配對，和一對代要相等稱的 在排圖和車縫的時候要特別注意 SEWING : 車縫1 Use suitable size of thread to fit to different thickness of fabric or appointed by buyer. 用適當粗細度的車縫線去配合不同厚度的布料，或客戶指定的線號2 At lease 13 SPI for thin fabric on top stitching. 薄布料的面線要一吋內最少要有13針3 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 13 SPI for thin fabric. 薄布料底面的3線鈒骨，5線鈒骨和內骨單針車線要一吋內最少要有13針4 At lease10 SPI for medium thickness fabric on top stitching. 中厚度布料的面線要一吋內最少要有10針5 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 11 SPI for medium weight fabric. 中厚度布料底面的3線鈒骨，5線鈒骨和內骨單針車線要一吋內最少要有11針6 At lease 8 SPI for denim amp thick fabric on top stitching. 厚布料的面線要一吋內最少要有8針7 3 threads overlock 5 threads overlock and single needle on under side seams m/b over 9 SPI for thick fabric. 厚布料底面的3線鈒骨，5線鈒骨和內骨單針開骨車線要一吋內最少要有9針8 All top stitching m/b in even SPI. 所有面線要均等一致的長度9 Front body panel especially on A - zone area is not accept overlap stitching. 成衣的前幅，由其在成衣的前中上部份A部位 不接受重迭駁線10 Necssary lap stitching standard s/b lapped align in 3/8quot to 1/2 length. 必要的接線，標準是接線位的長度應該是3/8吋至半吋和并排列在同一線條上11 Binding on garment front panel especially on center front top area A Zone is not accept have lap connection. 捆條不可有縫接駁位在成衣的前幅，由其在成衣的前中上部份A部位12 Puckering is not accepted on DNTS along seam 1/4quot or over 1/4quot SNTS along seam and 3 Thread Needle Top Stitches along seam. 雙針間面線，1/4吋 或超過1/4吋 闊的單針間面線和3針間面線，不接受布面出現起皺紋13 Side seam m/b one way stitch down from top to bottom or from sleeve opening down to bottom edge. 車縫合側骨要從頂上開始車縫合順落至腳或從袖口車縫合順落至腳14 To use new cone threads and set suitable tension not too tight to avoid thread easy broken especially for the garment with heavy washing. 使用新線和調較線的松緊度線不可乙太緊以防止容易線斷，雖要重水洗的成衣要特別注意15 WB m/b in clean finishing. 褲頭一定是還口車縫制造方法16 Usually WB s/b 4 pcs with slightly curve in shape the join seam is on center back and center front grain line m/b in straight cut.or appointed by buyer. 通常褲頊是四片小彎形剪裁制造法的，接駁車縫合是在后中的，而前褲頭是需要直紋剪裁，并且在條子布和格子布要配對間條和格子的17 The extention tab on waist band m/b same width as the WB and well cover the WB. 褲頭的搭帶要跟褲頭的寬闊相等，并且要覆蓋褲頭18 Center front waistband edge s/b align straight to center front zipper fly opening edge. 前中褲頭邊沿要跟前中拉練的開口邊沿并排列成一條直線19 Is not accepted over 1/8quot gap from waistband seam to tip top of zipper on center front center back and side seam zipper. 前中，后中和側骨拉錬頂距離褲頭底縫骨的空隙距離不可以長多過1/8吋20 M/B provide horizontal bartack on the bottom edge of J fly for single needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 單針面線的鈕牌底邊要加橫打組以加強拉力21 M/B provide horizontal bartack on the bottom inner edge of J fly for double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 雙針面線的鈕牌底內邊要加橫打組以加強拉力22 M/B provide horizontal bartack on 1/4quot over from the bottom inner edge of J fly for jeans double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 牛仔雙針面線的鈕牌底內邊上1/4吋要加橫打組以加強拉力23 Vertical bartack m/b provide at underside front zipper fly for single needle and double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 單針和雙針紐子和鈕牌底內要加直打組以加強拉力24 Jeans m/b provide vertical bartack 1quot up from bottom inner stitch on inner stitch of J fly for double needle top stitching to ensure the reinforcement. 牛仔雙針紐牌內面線要加直打組，打組位置距離紐牌底內線上一吋以加強拉力25 Zipper fly bottom end is not accepted raw edge m/b in clean finishing. 垃煉排末端不接受散口的制造方法，必需是要還口車縫的26 Invisible zipper end on sideseam c/front and c/back seam m/b well covered with match color thin binding in 3/8quot width. 側骨，前中和后中骨的隱形拉煉尾末端要用薄身和配色布包裹縫好外露的隱形拉練裹布寬3/8quot27 Invisible zipper top edge m/b add hood and bar. 隱形拉煉頂邊必需要加扣28 Raw edge is not accepted on pocket bag edge it m/b in clean finishing. 不接受袋布邊沿是散口車縫方式，應該是還口車縫才是正確的制造方法29 Bartack m/b provided for 5 thread overlock seam amp opening seam at inseam crotch for pants. 如果浪底內長是5線鈒骨和平車開骨的褲子雖要有打組在十字浪底只口上30 Vent and pleat end opening m/b have reverse stitches or bartack. 叉尾頂和褶頂要來回車縫線或加打組31 Vent and pleat end opening with top stitching reverse stitch m/b align amp same length as top stitching. 叉尾頂和褶頂的來回車縫線長度要跟面線的長度相同和并排列同一條車縫線上32 Side seam vent without taping m/b self turn in clean finishing. 側骨叉 如果沒有車落捆邊條布 必需是原身布還口的車縫制造方法33 Front back and side vent on bottom opening m/b natural closed is not accept lapped vent and vent swing towards to side. 前中，后中和側骨腳的開叉要自然順直，不接受有迭叉和叉斜向外側34 Hand needle thread tack in cross stitch to close pleat amp vent at bottom opening is required but not suitable for silk amp fabric with clothing to avoid needle mark. 褶尾端和叉尾端要用手針線縫合成quotXquot形的交叉線 是有需要的 注意不適用於絲質料布和有表層布的布料，以防止留下針孔痕跡35 Clean finishing for hem bottom opening. 腳位一定是還口車縫制造方法36 Is not accepted twist on hem bottom opening. 不接受褲腳車縫有扭曲37 Blind hem bottom opening m/b at least have 5 SPI and s/b have 5/8quot to 3/4quot lapped stitchecs on inseam back panel area. 如果腳是挑腳車縫制作的，一吋內最少有五針以上，位處后幅內長之起針和收針的車縫迭線長度必需要有5/8吋至3/4吋38 Trun seam allowance for hem bottom opening m/b same height and reach to the hem top stitching for denim. to void washing crease mark 牛仔布類的腳還折只口高度必需是跟車縫腳面線高度相同以防止水洗之后出現折痕 牛仔布類的下擺還折只口高度必需是跟車縫下擺面線高度相同以防止水洗之后出現折痕39 Seam allowance at inside collar collar stand sleeve cuff placket waistband patch pocket pocket flap and etc m/b even width for see through and thin fabric. 如果成衣是透視布料和薄身布料來制造的貨品上領，下領級，袖口級，面筒，底筒，褲頭，貼代和代蓋等等的只口要寬窄一致40 Ensure that at inside collar sleeve cuff placket waistband pocket flap and etc. are no remainder for see through and thin fabric. 如果成衣是用透視布料和薄身布料來制造的貨品上領，下領級，袖口級，面筒，底筒，褲頭和代蓋等等內里不可留下雜物41 To attach down size label to main lbl the stitches m/b all the way from one side edge to another side edge and the thread can not lapped the light blue stripe on main label. 車落尺碼嘜到主嘜上，車縫線要從一頭的開端車縫至另一未端，并且要注意車縫線不可以車落在主嘜的淺籃色條子上42 Attach down main loop label m/b have reverse stitches on both sides and thread is not allow drop down from label threads on top amp bottom m/b match colour. 折車落主嘜頭到成衣時，兩端車縫線要來回針線兩次，并且車縫線不可以跌出嘜頭外，落嘜頭的面線和底線要配對色43 Garment with full zipper on front zipper tape at top amp bottom m/b insert into collar band and bottom band. 如果成衣有前中全開拉煉款式，拉煉的頭和尾末端必須插入下領級內和衫腳內44 Garment with full zipper at front zipper tape edge should have self fabric binding or light weight fabric in match colour binding. 如果成衣有前中全開拉煉款式，拉煉邊布應該要用原身布料的捆條布包好拉煉邊或用薄身配衫身色的布捆條包好拉煉邊45 Besom/welt pocket is not accept kissing smiling and rooming. 唇代不接受迭唇，笑口和虛位46 Besom/welt pocket m/b keep close stitching in 5-6 SPI on center part and both sides approximate 1/2quot gap. 唇代中間部份要封口，車縫線一吋之內要有5至6針，靠近兩側留半吋開口47 Patch pocket m/b keep close with stitching in 5-6 SPI on center part and both sides approximate 1/2quot gap. 貼代中間要車縫線封口，車縫線一吋之內要有5至6針，靠近兩側留半吋開口48 Is not accepted quilting have skip stitching overlap stitches and not accepted padding come out to top surface or under side. 不接受間棉布有漏車線，迭線，毛或棉不可以漏出到布面和布底49 Tear drop loop m/b tack down to seam allowance with bartack. 辮子耳仔要用打棗固定在只口上50 Top item with lining s/b have 3/4quot length fixed taping to link at underarm seam. 有里布的上裝款式應該要有3/4quot 長的條帶將袖子里布連系到袖夾底只口上51 All front pocket bag s/b 8quot length and 7quot width also pocket bag corner m/s in round shape for bottom wear. 下裝所有前代布要有8英吋長和7英吋闊，并且代布的角要是圓形的，或客人指定之款式 FINISHING : 后整1 Single needle top stitch below WB seam on side seam m/b in even length and provide bartack at the end of stitching. 牛仔褲類褲在頭下肶骨上的車縫線長度要相等，車縫線末端一定要加打組2 All pants m/b have pressing centre crease line from bottom opening to crotch level or appointed by buyer. 褲類是中熨折的，熨折位是從腳口至平衡浪底位元，或客戶指定之方法3 Natural pressing crease line for denim pants. 牛仔褲是牛仔熨折方法4 Some item garment buyer appointed metal ware m/b well covered with tissue paper. 有某些種類成衣，客戶有指定金屬制品要用拷背紙包裹好的5 To avoid rusty and oxidative on metal ware in wet processing or after washing. 防止金屬制品有出現生銹或有氧化情況發(fā)生在水洗過程中和水洗之后6 To avoid trims such as dyed bttn color label leather label and etc have col