[工程科技]常用外貿(mào)服裝專(zhuān)業(yè)術(shù)語(yǔ) 中英文對(duì)照含圖

1、aappliqu:surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching.armhole:section of a garment through which an arm passes or into which a sleeve is sewn.armhole drop:distance from high point shoulder or low point sho

2、ulder measured to imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a 90-degree angle from cf or cb. armhole point:the point on a pattern where armhole and side seam intersect. armscye:see definition for armhole.bbackstitch:see definition for backtack.backtack:stitches used to secure the threads at the b

3、eginning and/or ending of a row of stitching. bagged lining:lining that is stitched securely to shell at hems. balance:garment appears symmetrical on the body. hanging equal distances from the body right to left, and front to back. balanced plaid/stripe placement:refers to the symmetrical appearance

4、 of the plaid on the body. the stripe/plaid must start at the same point on both sides of the garment.banana stand:see definition for half moon stand.band neckline, circular:for definition see set-circular.band neckline, flat:for definition see set-flatbarrel button:see definition for toggle button.

5、bartack:a series of short stitches sewn close together and used to reinforce areas of strain or stress. can be zigzag or straight stitching.basting stitch:temporarily holds together two layers of fabric.bellow:a method of adding fullness to an area of a garment, usually a pocket. often stitched arou

6、nd edges to hold shape.bellying: see cockling belt loop:narrow strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline to keep a belt in position.besom pocket:see definition for welt pocket.bias cut:cutting diagonally across the grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angle to the selvedge, resulting in a garme

7、nt that clings and follows body curves closely. bind off (sweater):see definition for cast off.binding:a narrow strip of fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give a clean finished edge and is visible on both sides of the fabric. can be single-turned, double-turned or combination.blanket stitch

8、(502)blended yarns:yarns composed of two or more different fibers mixed together and then spun to form one yarn.blindstitch: for definition see hem and 103blistering:see definition for bubbling.block:see definition for sloper.blocking:the shaping of a sweater into its finished form. steam and pressu

9、re are applied to make the blocked shape hold.body fabric:outer layer of fabric in a garment.bond strength:the numerical measurement of force required to separate the interlining from the piece goods. the measurement of gram force is recorded in newton (n = 102gf) or ounce (oz = 28.35gf).bonding:pro

10、cess of joining 2 fabrics into one by backing with adhesive or foam.boning:firm flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to hold shape or prevent stretching.bootcut silhouette:bound buttonhole:for definition see buttonholebound neckline, circular: for definition see set-circular.bound necklin

11、e, flat:for definition see set-flatbound seam:method of finishing a seam by binding seam allowance.bow, bowing:a fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc across the width of the fabric.box pleat:pleat formed by folding material alternately in opposite directions. box pleat inverted box pleatbrai

12、ded elastic:see definition for elastic braidedbubbling:the separation at different points between the interlining and the piece goods.buckle:a fastening device, in a variety of sizes and shapes, consisting of an open rim having a single or center bar, with or without a prong.bust dart: see definitio

13、n for dart.busted seam:see definition for pressed open seam.button:decorative or functional component used to hold two sides of a garment together. can be made out of many materials and can either have holes punched in the center for stitching or a shank on the back. buttons are made to slip through

14、 a buttonhole or fabric loop.button and loop cross-stitch attached: see definition for button.button parallel stitch attached:see definition for button.buttonhole:opening for a button to pass through and secure a garment opening. can be bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of thread, cord or

15、bias tubing.button sleeve placket:see definition for placket.button stabilizer:a plain flat button usually made of clear plastic placed inside a garment behind the top outside button. can be used anywhere there are buttons for closure.ccap snap:see definition for snap.cargo pocket:a stylized patch p

16、ocket, often with bellows, with flap closure at the top.casing:fold of fabric stitched down to form an opening through which elastic or a cord is drawn.cast off (sweater):methods of removing open stitches from the needles must be finished with a bind off (like rib neck trim) to prevent unraveling of

17、 the finished edge. can also be decorative stitches within a panel. cast on (sweater):see definition of sweater start.centered over seam stitch:topstitch on each side of the seam, equal distance from the seam. can be produced by two single needles or 1 double needle. chain tack:see definition for sw

18、ing tack.chisel pocket:see definition for ruler pocket.circular finish:see definition for set circularcircular knit:see definition for tubular knit.clean finish:indicates that raw edges of fabric are finished in a way that stops fabric from fraying and hides raw edges.clicking:see definition for die

19、 cutting.closure:components that work together to hold 2 sides of a garment together. cockling: cockling and bellying mean the same thing. if elastic has a wavy appearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. the primary cause is when the individual ends of spandex (rubber) relax o

20、r contract more than the majority in the same length of the elastic causing waviness along the top edge. coin pocket:small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usually located inside side pocket. can be a patch pocket or on-seam pocket construction. collar:no band collar with band col

21、larcollar stay:narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from the underside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabric added to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look.collarband:see definition for collarstandcollarstand:separate shaped piece of fabric that is the

22、 full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. used to help shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to close neckline.color fast: a term used to determine whether a color bleeds during laundering. this is normally measured by a grading system 1 5.conc

23、ealed zipper:zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth not visible. some specific construction methods are center lapped or kissing, side lapped, and invisible.construction:processes in order to construct a garment, consists of stitching and/or fusing garment pieces together.co

24、ntinuous sleeve placket:see definition for placket.contoured waistband:see definition for waistband.cording:see definition for piping.cordlock:a locking device that is typically spring activated and may have 1 or 2 holes. used to adjust drawcords, etc.core thread:thread formed by spinning a cotton,

25、rayon, or polyester fiber around a continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the advantages of a spun and filament construction.course:a crosswise or horizontal row of loops in knitted fabric.covered button:see definition for button.crack-stitched:see definition for stitch-in-the-ditch.

26、crescent stand:see definition for half moon stand.crocking:the transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. this problem is usually worse with darker shades. reds are often a problem in this respect. this is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dye house. cross grain cut:th

27、e cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabriccrotch: crotch curve:the bottom of a rise curve.crotch depth:the straight distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts, etc.crotch point:the point on the pattern where the front or back rise intersects with the inse

28、am.curtain waistband:a method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewn on facing that hangs below lower seam of waistband made of fabric other than shell that is interfaced/interlined or turned.cut and sew (sweater):sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, t

29、he shape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smaller sizes are cut down.cut on placket:see definition for placket.cutting:formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means of a die, laser or knife. typically done on a long table. ddart:a sewn wedge or diamond shaped

30、 tuck/seam used to make a garment conform to the curves of the body.delamination:a separation in the bond between the fusible interlining and the piece goods. this can be total separation (total delamination) or partial separation (localized delaminiation).denier:weight measurement of yarns. low num

31、bers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes. also see definition for elastic denier die cutting:sharp metal outlines in the shape of pattern pieces used to cut plies of fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press. typically used

32、for smaller pattern pieces.differential shrinkage:occurs when the piece goods and the interlining are not moving in sync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of the garment part.doghouse stitch:see definition for triangle reinforce stitch.double needle centered over seam:see definitio

33、n for centered over seam stitch.double turn hem: see definition for hem.double yoke/ stylized yoke:see definition for yoke.drape:see definition for hang.drawcord:see definition for drawstring.drawstring:a narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a casing and pulled up or tied to

34、create shape and/or hold the garment to the body.dress form:see definition for mannequin. d-ring:“d” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustable closure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt.eease:the method of sewing together 2 components of varying seam lengths evenl

35、y distributing fullness so as not to cause gathers or puckers. see definitions for tight, moderate and generous.ease over body:the amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allow adequate movement when worn. eighth top pocket:see definition for slant pocket.elastic braided:a narr

36、ow elastic band, often used as trimmings and bindings. formed by plating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. braided elastic usually becomes narrowed when elongated. made on a circular braiding machine. elastic denier:the size or thickness of the yarn. also thickness of spandex (the lower

37、the number the weaker the spandex)elastic elastomers:natural rubber threadelastic elongation:stretch measure 5” relaxed and pull to maximum; measurement result given in a %. elastic ends of rubber:the number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic.elastic gau

38、ge:thickness of rubber (the lower the number the stronger the rubber)elastic knitted:fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns. materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon and bare spandex or extruded rubber. made on a flat bed crochet mach

39、ine. elastic modulus:power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. the force required to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amount of pressure the elastic is putting on the wearers body. elastic non roll:elastic that has enough width wise stability so

40、it does not bend, roll or crush across its width when worn. made with monofilament thread. elastic recovery:ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching and releasing. after stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. the elastic must return to 90% to 92% of it

41、s original length. elastic waistband: see definition for waistband elastic woven: primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered extruded rubber. generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of the covered elastomers and stitch formations. made on a shuttle loom.elas

42、tomeric: an end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn. embroidery:fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallic threads.enclosed seam:see definition for french seams.ends of rubber:the number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular si

43、ze or quality of elastic.execution:see definition for construction.exposed seam:seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment.exposed zipper:zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible.expression of fit:designers vision of how the garment sh

44、ould fit on the human form.the key elements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but are not limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tight fitting a garment is. it is possible for a garment to achieve an excellent fit, but still not have achieved

45、 the designers vision for fit.extended tab waistband:see definition for waistband.eyelet:small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. can also be formed by a round embroidered opening. can be decorative or used with cord.ffabric:cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by

46、weaving, knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, or felting. can also be made by bonding or non-woven methods.fabric hand feel:see definition for hand.face:surface of fabric designated in the weaving/knitting process to be used as the outside of a finished garment. facing:piece of fabric used to f

47、inish a raw edge. facings are turned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams.faggoting:open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, or, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded ed

48、ges of fabric with ornamental stitches.fashioning marks (sweater):raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to adjacent needles to decrease the width of the knitted panel, usually occurs in a series at neckline and armhole.felled seam:process that conceals seam allowance between plies as

49、they are folded together and topstitched through all layers. female closure:fiber:basic filament or strand from which yarns are made. fibers are either short with natural materials or man-made materials which are made in long continuous filaments.filament:a fiber of indefinite or extreme length as f

50、ound in silk or synthetic fibers.fill:crosswise or horizontal yarn of a woven fabric that runs at right angles to the warp yarns or selvage.findings:all the smaller items and trimmings that complete a garment. maybe decorative material that adorns the garment.fine gauge (sweater):a small knitted sti

51、tch usually 12 to 24 gauge.finishing:all the final stages of preparing a garment for point of sale. includes, but not limited to, washing, pressing, thread clipping, inspection, ticketing, etc. fishtail buttonhole:for definition see buttonhole.fit:how well a garment conforms to the 3-dimensional hum

52、an body.fit model:individual who represents the figure type of the intended guest used to evaluate the fit of garments.fitting ease:see definition for ease over body.flap pocket:flare leg silhouette:flat felled seam:see definition for felled seam.flat finish:see definition for set flat.flat knit:fab

53、ric knitted flat and has selvages.flat knit collar: floating tack:see definition for swing tack.fraying:fraying is the unraveling of yarn in either the fill or warp direction. free hanging lining:lining not attached at garment hem.french dart: see definition for dart.french fly facing:a separate sew

54、n on fabric tab or extension used to cover zipper teeth. it extends from bottom of zipper to waistband and buttons to inside of pants near waist. french seams:process where raw edges of a seam are enclosed between garment plies as they are turned over and stitched, forming a clean finish.french tack

55、:see definition for swing tack.frog:ornamental braided two piece garment closure forming button and loopfull fashioned / knit to shape (sweater):sweater panel is knit to shape by increasing and decreasing the number of needles used during the knitting action. no cutting is required to obtain the des

56、ired panel shape. full needle rib (sweater):double bed construct commonly used at start or placket; looks like 1x1 rib, but is more compact. can be either link/loop attached (see linking/looping definition) or continuous knit attach. full placket:see definition for placket.fusible:fabric containing heat sensitive adhesive for application using heat and pressure. commonly seen on interfacing or decorative trims.ggathering:see definition for shirring