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1、The boiling river of the AmazonAs a boy in Lima, my gran dfather told me a lege nd of the Spanish conq uest of Peru. Atahualpa, emperor of the In ca, had bee n captured and killed. Pizarro and his conq uistadors had grow n rich, and tales of theic onq uest and glory had reached Spain and werebringin

2、g new waves of Spaniardshungry for gold and glory. They would go into tow ns and ask the In ca, Wheres ano ther civilizati on we can conq uer? Wheres more gold?小時(shí)候,我住在利馬;爺爺給我講了一個(gè)關(guān)于-西班牙征服秘魯?shù)膫髌婀适?。印加帝國?末代皇帝阿塔瓦爾帕,被抓住并處死。皮薩羅和征服者們變得富有起來,他們攻克秘魯?shù)膫?說和贊頌傳到了西班牙,吸引了一批西班牙人來此淘金。他們?nèi)サ芥?zhèn)子里,問印加人:還有哪個(gè)文明沒被攻克?還有哪里有黃金?”A

3、nd the Inca, out of vengeanee, told them, Go to the Amazon. Youll find all the gold you want there. In fact, there is a city called Paititi - El Dorado in Spanish -made en tirely of gold.而出于報(bào)復(fù),印加人就告訴他們:去亞馬遜,那里有挖不完的黃金”。事實(shí)上,那里有一個(gè)叫做帕依提提一西班牙語叫El Dorado的城市是由黃金建成的”。The Spani shset off in to the jun gle, b

4、ut the few that retur ncome back with stories, stories ofpowerful shamans, of warriors with poisoned arrows, of trees so tall that they blotted out the sun, spiders that ate birds, snakes that swallowed men whole and a river that boiled.于是這些西班牙人動(dòng)身前往那片叢林,結(jié)果只有少數(shù)人帶著故事回來了,他們帶回了關(guān) 于強(qiáng)大的薩滿巫師的故事,關(guān)于拿著毒箭的武士的故事

5、,關(guān)于那里的樹太高以至遮住了陽光 的故事,關(guān)于吃鳥的蜘蛛、能夠吞下一整個(gè)人的大蛇,以及一條沸騰的河流的故事。All this became a childhood memory.A nd years passed. Im work ing on my PhD at SMU, trying to understand Perus geothermal energy potentiawhen I remember this lege nd,and I bega n ask ing that questi on Could the boili ng river exist?所有這些都成為了我的童年記

6、憶。多年過去了,我到了南方為理公會(huì)大學(xué)(SMU)攻讀博士學(xué)位,當(dāng)我試著了解秘魯?shù)牡責(zé)崮茉礉摿r(shí), 我想到了這個(gè)傳說,于是想到了一個(gè)問題。 傳說中的那條沸騰的河流真的存在嗎?I asked colleagues from uni versities, the gover nment, oil, gas and mining companies, and the answer was ananimous no. And this makessense You see, boili ng rivers do exist in the world, but theyre gen erally asso

7、ciated with volca no es. You n eed a powerful heat source to produce such a large geothermal mani festati on. And as you can see from the red dots here, hich are volca no es, we dont have volcanoes in the Amazon,nor in most of Peru. So it follows: We should not expect to see a boiling river.我咨詢了一些同僚

8、,他們來自各大高校,政府部門,石油、天然氣和礦業(yè)公司,所有人的答案都是 不”。這個(gè)答案是有道理的。因?yàn)榉序v的河流的確存在,但通常是在火山旁。只 有一個(gè)強(qiáng)大的熱源,才制造出如此大的地?zé)岈F(xiàn)象。你看到的這些紅點(diǎn),它們代表火山,而在 亞馬遜是沒有火山的,秘魯?shù)拇蟛糠值貐^(qū)也沒有火山。所以得出的結(jié)論為:這片區(qū)域看不到 沸騰的河流。? Geothermal en ergy is produced by heat from in side the earth.? As a boy in Lima, my gran dfather told me a lege nd of the Spanish conq ue

9、st of Peru.Telling this same story at a family dinner, my aunt tells me, But no, Andr s, e Ive been there. Ive swum in that river.在一次家庭聚餐上我又講了這個(gè)故事,然后我的阿姨告訴我,不,安德烈,我去過那,我在那條河里游過泳”。Then my uncle jumps in. No, Andr s, shes not kidding. You see, you can only swim in it after a very heavy rain, and its p

10、rotected by a powerful shamarYour aunt, shes friends with his wife.然后我叔叔也加入了討論,”真的,安德烈,她沒有開玩笑,只有在大雨過后,才能在里 面游泳,它被一位強(qiáng)大的薩滿巫師保護(hù)著,而你的阿姨,跟他的妻子是朋友”。You know, despite, all .my . scientific .skepticism, J .found_myseLf_hiking j.nto _the jun gle, guided by my aunt, over 700 kilometers away from the n earest

11、volca nic cen ter, and well, hon estly, men tally prepari ng myself to behold the lege ndary warm stream of the Amaz on.盡管我作為科學(xué)家,對(duì)此表示懷疑,還是在我的阿姨帶領(lǐng)下,踏上了那片叢林,那里距 最近的火山口有700公里,坦白說,我已經(jīng)做好了見證那條傳奇的 並馬遜暖流”的心理準(zhǔn) 備了。But the n I heard somethi ng, a low surge that got louder and louder as we came closer. It sound

12、ed like ocean waves constantly crashing, and as we got closer, I saw smoke, vapor, coming up through the trees. And the n, I saw this.但是,緊接著,我聽到一些聲響,隨著我們逐步走進(jìn),一股低涌 -變得越來越響徹。就像海浪 不停的沖擊一樣,而當(dāng)我們走近時(shí),我看到煙霧和蒸汽從樹林中冒出。不久,我看到了這個(gè)。I immediately grabbed for my thermometer, and the average temperatures in the rive

13、r were 86 degrees C. This is not quite the 100-degree C boiling but definitely close eno ugh. The river flowed hot and fast. I followed it upriver and was led by, actually, the shamans apprentice to the most sacred site on the river. And this is whats bizarre - It starts off as a cold stream. And he

14、re, at this site, is the home of the Yacumama, mother of the waters, a giant serpent spirit who births hot and cold water. And here we find a hot spring, mixing with cold stream water underneath her protective motherly jaws and thus br inging their lege nds to life.我立馬拿起了溫度計(jì),測(cè)量到這條河流的平均溫度為 86 C。雖然這并沒

15、有達(dá)到100 C的沸點(diǎn), 但也很接近了。這條高溫河水流湍急。在這位薩滿大師徒弟的帶領(lǐng)下,我沿河而上,去往這 條河最神圣的地點(diǎn)。奇妙的事情發(fā)生了,這條河的起點(diǎn)是冷流。而這個(gè)地方,是亞庫馬馬的 故鄉(xiāng),亞庫馬馬是河之母,是創(chuàng)造冷熱水的巨大的蛇靈。而在這里,我們找到了一處熱泉,同受她保護(hù)的河口下的冷流混合在一起,將這些傳說變?yōu)楝F(xiàn)實(shí)。The n ext mornin g, I woke up and -第二天早上,當(dāng)我醒來的時(shí)候I asked for tea. I was han ded a mug, a tea bag and, well, poin ted towards the river. To

16、 my surprise, the water was clean and had a pleasant taste, which is a little weird for geothermal systems.我說想喝杯茶。 于是有人遞給我一個(gè)馬克杯,一個(gè)茶包,然后,指著那條河。 讓我驚訝的是,河水是如此的清澈,喝起來也很可口,這對(duì)于地?zé)嵯到y(tǒng)來說是有點(diǎn)異常的。What . was_a.m.azjng.is. . that.theoc_als.ha_d .always一 known .about this, .place, . and_ that I was by no means the

17、first outsider to see it. It was just part of their everyday life. They drink its water. They take in its vapor. They cook with it, clean with it, even make their medic ines with it.更神奇的一點(diǎn)是,本地人似乎一直都知道有這么個(gè)地方,而我也絕不是第一個(gè)發(fā)現(xiàn)此地 的外來人。這些都是他們的家常便飯。他們飲用河里的水;享用這些蒸汽;用河水烹飪;清潔,甚至用這些河水來制藥。I met the shama n, and he

18、seemed like an exte nsion of the river and his jungle. He asked for my intentions and listened carefully. Then, to my tremendous relief - I was freak ing out, to be hon est with you - a smile bega n to sn ake across his face, and he just laughed.我見到了薩滿大師,似乎他也成了這條河和叢林的一部分。他詢問我的來意,用心傾聽。 不久,我便感到壓力減輕了 -

19、老實(shí)告訴你,我當(dāng)時(shí)可嚇壞了 -他嘴角微微上揚(yáng),他笑了。I had received the shamans blessing to study the river, on the condition that after I take the water samples and an alyze them in my lab, wherever I was in the world, that I pour the waters back into the ground so that, as the shaman said, the waters could find their way b

20、ack home.我對(duì)這條河的研究得到了薩滿大師的祝福,他只有一點(diǎn)要求,那便是待我取樣并帶回實(shí) 驗(yàn)室分析后,不管我在世界的哪一個(gè)角落,我要把這些水倒回地上,薩滿大師說,這樣這些 水便能回到河流里。? Despite his skepticism, he was still expecting to see the boiling river.? He promised to pour the water samples back into the ground after an alyz ing them in his lab.? He was freak ing out whe n the

21、shama n asked about his inten ti ons.s tei? He immediately grabbed his thermometer to measure the riverIve been back every year since that first visit in 2011, and the fieldwork has been exhilarating, demanding and at times dangerous. One story was even featured in Natio nal Geographic Magaz in e. I

22、 was trapped on a small rock about the size of a sheet of paper in san dals and board shorts, in betwee n an 80 degree C river and a hot spring that, well, looked like this, close to boiling. And on top of that, it was Amazon rain forest. Pshh, pouri ng rain, could nt see a thi ng. The temperature d

23、iffere ntial made it all white. It was a whiteout. I nten se.2011年的勘測(cè)后,我每年都會(huì)回去,我的勘測(cè)結(jié)果甚是喜人,有些時(shí)候也頗有些危險(xiǎn)和挑戰(zhàn)。我的故事甚至被刊登到了國家地理這本雜志上。我被困在了和一張紙一樣大小的石頭上,穿著涼鞋和運(yùn)動(dòng)短褲,置身于 80C的河水 和接近沸點(diǎn)的溫泉中。 不僅如此,那 還是在亞馬遜雨林。那是傾盆大雨,什么也看不見。溫差使得周圍的一切看起來都是白色的。局勢(shì)很緊張。Now, after years of work, III soon be submitting my geophysical and geo

24、chemical studies for publication. And Id like to share, today, with all of you here, on the TED stage, for the first time, some of these discoveries.現(xiàn)在,經(jīng)過多年的研究,我即將發(fā)表關(guān)于地球物理和化學(xué)的論文。今天站在TED的舞臺(tái)上,我想和大家一起分享,這也是我首次揭露其中的一些發(fā)現(xiàn)。Well, first off, its not a lege nd. Surprise!首先,這并不是一個(gè)傳說。意想不到吧!Whe n I first started

25、 the research, the satellite imagery was too low-resolutio n to be meanin gful. There were just no good maps. Thanks to the support of the Google Earth team, I now have this. Not only that, theindigenous name of the river, Shanay-timpishka, boiled with the heat of the sun,indicates that Im not the f

26、irst to wonder why the river boils, and showing thathumanity has alwayssought to expla in the world around us.在我最初開始這項(xiàng)研究的時(shí)候,有關(guān)的衛(wèi)星圖像像素很低,幾乎沒什么用。那時(shí)就沒什 么高質(zhì)量的地圖。多虧了谷歌地球這個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì),現(xiàn)在我有了這個(gè)。不僅如此,這條河的本名Shanay-timpishka ,由太陽燒開的河說明我并不是第一個(gè)對(duì)這條河沸騰感到好奇的人,也說明了人類一直以來都嘗試著去解釋 我們生活的世界。So why does the river boil?為什么這條河會(huì)沸騰呢?I

27、t actually took me three years to get that footage.這些圖像是我花了三年時(shí)間收集來的。Fault-fed hot spr in gs. As we have hot blood running through our veins and arteries, so, too, the earth has hot water running through its cracks and fauWhere these arteries come to the surface, these earth arteries, well get geothe

28、rmal manifestations: fumaroles, hot springs and in our case, the boiling river.地質(zhì)斷層滋長溫泉。正如人類體內(nèi)的血管和動(dòng)脈里流動(dòng)著熱血一樣, 地球的裂縫和斷層 里也流淌著熱水。那些在地球表面的”動(dòng)脈,“就是地?zé)岜憩F(xiàn):噴氣孔,溫泉,正是我們這里 的沸騰河。Whats truly in credible, though, is the scale of this place. Next time you cross the road, think about this.The river flows wider than

29、 a two-lane road along most of its path. It flows hot for 6.24 kilometers. Truly impressive. T here are thermal pools larger than this TED stage,and that waterfall that you see there is six meters tall -and all with near-boiling water.然而,真正難以置信的是這條河的規(guī)模之大。下次當(dāng)你過馬路的時(shí)候,不妨這樣想想。這條河大部分流經(jīng)地的寬度超過雙車道的馬路。而熱水流經(jīng)長

30、度為6.24千米。真是嘆為觀 止。有些熱泉比TED的舞臺(tái)還要大,而你看到的那個(gè)瀑布,其實(shí)有6米高-全部都接近沸點(diǎn)的河水。We mapped the temperatures along the river, and this was by far the most dema nding part of the fieldwork. And the results were just awesome. Sorry - the geoscientist in me coming out. And it showed this amazing trend. You see, the river st

31、arts off cold. It the n heats up, cools back dow n, heats up, cools back dow n, heats up again, and then has this beautiful decay curve until it smashes into this cold river.我們按照河水的溫度制作地圖,這項(xiàng)工作也是目前最為困難的部分。出來的結(jié)果真是了不起。抱歉,我是個(gè)地理科學(xué)迷這事兒暴露了。我們的結(jié)論展示出了一種趨勢(shì)。你看,這條河的河口是冷水。 接下來逐漸升溫,再降溫,再升,又降,再次升溫,于是有了這些可愛的衰減曲線,直到

32、最后奔騰進(jìn)冰冷的河水中。Now, I understand not all of you are geothermal scientists, so to put it in more everyday terms: Every one loves coffee. Y es? Good .Your regular cup of coffee, 54 degrees C,an extra-hot one, well, 60.So, put in coffee shop terms, the boiling river plots like this. There you have your ho

33、t coffee. Here you have your extra-hot coffee, and you can see that theres a bit point therevhere the river is still hotter than even the extra-hot coffee. And these are average water temperaturesWe took these in the dry seas on to en sure the purest geothermal temperatures.我知道在座的有些并不是研究地?zé)峥茖W(xué)的,所以,用日常

34、生活來舉個(gè)例子:人人都愛咖啡。對(duì)嗎? 一杯普通的咖啡是54 C,特別燙的咖啡是60 C。所以用咖啡的例子來說,沸騰的河水看起來是這樣的。這是一杯熱咖啡。 這是加熱的咖啡,可以看到這里有一個(gè)尖尖的地方,那就是這條河要比特別燙的咖啡還要燙。這些是水的平均溫度。這些都是在干燥的季節(jié)采集的樣品,為了保證得到最純粹的地?zé)釡囟?。But theres a magic number here thats not being shown, and that number is 47 degrees C, because thats where things start to hurt, a nd I know

35、this from very pers onal experie nceAbove that temperature, you dont want to get in that waterYou n eed to be careful.It can be deadly.但有一個(gè)神奇的數(shù)字并沒有顯示出來, 那就是47 C,因?yàn)檫@是有害的臨界點(diǎn)。 我知道 這一點(diǎn)是因?yàn)槲易约河羞^這樣的經(jīng)歷。 超過47 C之后,沒有人會(huì)想站在那里。 你得格外小 心。因?yàn)檫@可能是致命的。rve seen all sorts of animals fall in, and whats shocking to me, is

36、 the process is pretty much the same.So they fall in and the first thing to go are the eyes. Eyes, apparently, cook very quickly. They turn this milky-white color. The stream is carrying them. Theyre trying to swim out, but their meat is cooking on the bon e because its so hot.So theyre losi ng powe

37、r, los ing power, un til fin ally they get to a point where hot water goes in to their mouthsa nd they cook from the in side out.我看到各種各樣的動(dòng)物掉入河里, 讓我感到驚訝的是,整個(gè)過程幾乎都雷同的。當(dāng)它們 掉進(jìn)河里時(shí),第一個(gè)受到傷害的便是眼睛。 眼睛顯然不用煮多久,便成了奶白色。 河流把它 們卷走。雖然它們?cè)囍紊习叮撬麄冋诒挥赏獾絻?nèi)烹飪著, 因?yàn)闇囟葘?shí)在太高了。于 是,它們漸漸地失去了力氣, 最后熱水沖進(jìn)了嘴里, 從內(nèi)外外烹飪的過程開始了。What s t

38、ruly in credible, though, is the scale of this place.We took these in the dry seas on to en sure the purest geothermal temperatures.這些都是在干燥的季節(jié)采集的樣品,為了保證得到最純粹的地?zé)釡囟?。It indicates that humanity has always sought to explain the world around us.也說明了人類一直以來都嘗試著去解釋我們生活的世界。A bit sadistic, arent we? Jeez. Leav

39、e them mari nat ing for a little Ion ger. Whats, again, amazing are these temperatures. Theyre similar to things that rve seen on volca noes all over the world and eve n supevolca noes like Yellowst one.有點(diǎn)讓人難過,不是嗎?天吶。讓它們?cè)陔缰埔粫?huì)兒。另一個(gè)神奇之處便是溫度。這些 河的溫度和我所見過的火山差不多,甚至類似于黃石的超級(jí)火山But heres the thing: the data

40、is showing that the boiling river exists independent of volcanism. Its neither magmatic or volcanic in origin, and again, over 700 kilometers away from the n earest volca nic cen ter.但有意思的是:根據(jù)數(shù)據(jù),這條沸騰河 和火山并不是共存關(guān)系。這和磁場(chǎng)或火山都沒關(guān) 系,再強(qiáng)調(diào)一次,最近的火山離這里也有700公里遠(yuǎn)。How can a boiling river exist like this? Ive asked g

41、eothermal experts and volcanologists for years, and Imstill unable to find another non-volcanic geothermal system of this magn itude. Its uniq ue. Its special on a global scale. So, still - how does it work? Where do we get this heat? Theres still more research to be done to better con stra in the p

42、roblem and better un dersta nd the system, but from what the data is telling us now, it looks to be the result of a large hydrothermal system.這樣一條沸騰的河流是怎么形成的呢?多年來,我詢問了許多地?zé)釋<液突鹕窖芯空邆?,至今也沒能找到另外一個(gè)非火山的地?zé)嵯到y(tǒng),有如此大的規(guī)模。這是獨(dú)一無二的。在全球范圍內(nèi)來說都是特別的。但,它到底是怎么運(yùn)作的呢?這些熱量從哪里來的?人們還要做許多的研究才能更好的控制這個(gè)問題并理解這種系統(tǒng),但從目前我們獲得的數(shù)據(jù)看,似乎是由

43、大型熱泉系統(tǒng)導(dǎo)致的。Basically, it works like this: So, the deeper you go into the earth, the hotter it gets. We refer to this as the geothermal gradient. The waters could be coming from as far away as glaciers in the An des, the n seep ing dow n deep into the earth and coming out to form the boiling river aft

44、er getting heated up from the geothermal gradient, all due to this unique geologic sett ing.概括起來便是:越接近地球核心,溫度越高。我們稱此為地?zé)崽荻取_@些水可能是遙遠(yuǎn) 的安第斯山脈冰川融水,逐漸滲透入地球核心,然后以沸騰河的形式流出,在受到地?zé)崽荻?的加熱之后,這一切都?xì)w功于這種獨(dú)特的地質(zhì)特征。Now, we found that in and around the river - this is working with colleaguesfrom Nati onal Geographic, Dr

45、. Spen cer Wells, and Dr. Jon Eise n from UC Davis - we genetically sequeneed the extremophile life forms living in and around the river, and have found new life forms, unique species living in the boiling river.目前,我們發(fā)現(xiàn)這條河里以及附近,我同幾位來自國家地理的同事一起,來自國家地 理的威爾士博士,來自 UC Davis的埃森博士 -我們對(duì)生活在河里以及周邊的生物 -進(jìn)行了基因 排

46、序,并且找到了新的生命形式,生活在沸騰河里的獨(dú)特生物。But aga in, despite all of these studies, all of these discoveries and the lege nds, a questi on rema ins: What is the sig nifica nce of the boili ng river? What is the significance of this stationary cloud that always hovers over this patch of jungle? And what is the sig

47、nifica nce of a detail in a childhood lege nd?但,盡管有這些研究,這些發(fā)現(xiàn)和傳說,仍有一個(gè)問題縈繞人心:沸騰河的存在有重要 意義嗎?那片籠罩叢林的靜止的云的存在有什么意義呢?再者,童年時(shí)代聽到的傳說又有什 么重要性呢?To the shama n and his com muni ty, its a sacred site. To me, as a geoscie ntist, its a unique geothermal phe nomenon .But to the illegal loggers and cattle farmers, it

48、s just ano ther resource to exploit. And to the Peruvia n gover nmen t, its just ano ther stretch of un protected land ready for developme nt.對(duì)薩滿大師和那里的居民來說,這是一個(gè)神圣的地方。對(duì)我來說,作為一名地球?qū)W家, 這是獨(dú)特的地?zé)岈F(xiàn)象。但對(duì)于非法伐木和畜牧農(nóng)場(chǎng)主來說,這只不過是另一個(gè)可以開采的地 方而已。而對(duì)于秘魯政府來說,這只不過是另一個(gè)未受保護(hù)的地方等待被開發(fā)而已。My goal is to ensure that whoever controls this land understandsthe boiling rivers uniqueness and significance. Because thats the question,

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