法國(guó)女人的穿衣技巧

1、這是 Ellen Wallace 在 1982 年 8 月刊登在 Cosmopolitan 的一篇文章。里面關(guān)于穿衣搭配的 原則絕對(duì)是經(jīng)典。 雖然文章里拿了美國(guó)女人和法國(guó)女人做對(duì)比，但是我覺得亞洲人的基本 時(shí)尚觀念跟美國(guó)人很相似，也可以從中學(xué)習(xí)到一些東西。 Happy reading!先上我總結(jié)的 10 大點(diǎn)。 PS 樓主中文不太好你們湊合著看吧。 。1. Chic 是一種自然不刻意的感覺，并不是有錢就能擁有的。2. 一身搭配最基本的幾個(gè)顏色分別是黑、白、藏青、酒紅、米色。3. 法國(guó)姑娘從小就被教育如何選擇經(jīng)典并耐穿的高質(zhì)量基本款。一般至少可以穿 5 年，但 更多是可以讓你穿 10年甚至 15

2、 年的才能夠算是基本款。這樣的服飾可以看作一種投資。4. 法國(guó)女人比一般美國(guó)女人更注重自己的儀表和體態(tài)，并不僅僅是體重（這個(gè)的話，三位 數(shù)女生沒有幸福黨可以注意一下） 。在法國(guó)，就算不富裕的女人也會(huì)定期上美容院保養(yǎng)，做 日光浴或做指甲。 巴黎女人的發(fā)型總是很完美， 并不是因?yàn)樗齻兊睦戆l(fā)師更厲害， 而是她們 更常去修剪。5. 美國(guó)女人要么是很認(rèn)真地打扮（這個(gè)時(shí)候你能很明顯發(fā)覺她們刻意地打扮了），不然就是隨便穿點(diǎn)什么。在法國(guó)就不會(huì)有這種情況 法國(guó)女人不可能 “隨便穿點(diǎn)什么 ”。6. 法國(guó)女人絕對(duì)不會(huì)買一件很貴的衣服然后藏在衣柜，只有特別的日子才拿出來穿，而平 時(shí)只穿不太喜歡的衣服。她們更愿意花錢買

3、高質(zhì)量并且價(jià)格更高的衣服天天穿。7. 買了昂貴的鞋子之后她們會(huì)趕緊拿到鞋匠那里在鞋底加上保護(hù)膜，這樣皮鞋就能穿得更 久。衣服的話，很多時(shí)候過了幾年會(huì)拿到店里去修改成比較新的剪裁繼續(xù)穿。8. 最重要的穿衣經(jīng)就是要整潔干凈，衣服要燙平，鞋子要定期擦。對(duì)于自身的缺陷不需要 遮遮掩掩。 太多美國(guó)女人都向往著一種特定的美感。 高跟鞋可不是為了讓你變高才穿的。 （我 想他的意思是說高跟鞋應(yīng)該是為了美感穿而不是為了增高）法國(guó)女人要凸顯的是自己的風(fēng) 格，而在美國(guó)， 一般被認(rèn)為是漂亮的女人全部都只是都是蜜色肌膚， 長(zhǎng)腿金發(fā)又很陽(yáng)光的那 種 這樣太無聊了。9. 法國(guó)女人打扮是為了讓自己愉悅，因?yàn)橹挥羞@樣她才能有自

4、信讓別人感到愉悅。10. 法國(guó)女人不會(huì)為了男人打扮，也不會(huì)專門為了變性感而打扮。性感和風(fēng)sao 是不同的，她們不會(huì)為了釣?zāi)腥硕匾獯┮恍└】涞囊路?性感對(duì)她們來說絕對(duì)不是投懷送抱那樣的態(tài) 度。在弗羅里達(dá)，女孩子早上都是 T-shirt 短褲，到了晚上才刻意打扮得很嫵媚。在法國(guó)， 嫵媚是全天的，它是你的一部分，不是你衣著的一部分。正文：Oui Parisia ns always man age to look fan tastique even in les blue jea ns. ” Jet with us the n tocafe-lined boulevards and learn a

5、bout French fashion flair!The one thing they don 'ttell you in travel brochures about Paris is the first thing every visitor notices: People stare. They stare at you; they stare at everybody. And everybody stares back.My first taste of this phenomenon terrified me. I was wearing an overloaded ba

6、ckpack and a wrinkled black dress, which I had slept in on the train. My mascara was mostly on my cheeks. I wanted desperately to be inconspicuous, but there they were, all those terrible suave-looking Frenchmen I had heard about, staring right at me. I wanted to melt into the sidewalk!There was als

7、o no way to avoid noticing something else: Those French girls look better than we do. Of course, the mysterious allure of the French woman is nothing new. She has been the target of love, lust, and intrigue in hundreds of books and films. Remember Gigi, that innocent heartbreaker? And Edith Piaf, th

8、e enigmatic, real-life heroine who stunned the world with her gutsy love songs? Not to mention the quasi-Parisiennes protagonists of a dozen American novels who left home frumpy and meek, only to return from Paris a year later ravishing and self-assured. After devouring those stories, I could never

9、quite give up the notion that a few months in France and voila! I would be magically transformed.Alas, at the end of a year in Paris, I still looked moderately frumpy. In the interest of self-improvement or maybe survival I set out to determine why those French girls look so special. There must be a

10、 secret, I told myself, and I was going to discover it. The first step seemed obvious: Observe. So I settled down for the evening in what struck me as a good spot, the Cafe Select on Boulevard Montparnasse. Before long, three French women sat down next to me. Thinking I had found my first victims, I

11、 eagerly pulled out my note pad.Unfortunately, my analysis wasn't terribly enlightening. The women all looked pretty and sophisticated in a carefree, natural way. They had on clothes my American friends might wear: denim skirts, nice shirts with pullovers, and low-heeled shoes. There was nothing

12、 overtly French about their features and coloring, yet they looked Parisian to the core. Why? The only distinctive things I noticed were that two wore bright narrow belts over their sweaters, something most Americans waistline conscious would hesitate to do, and all three had perfect hair.I was puzz

13、led. None of them was doing anything an American friend might not try, but somehow the total look wasn 't the same. So, a few nights later, I decided to proceed to step two: Ask the French. This tack proved more successful, although I could see the Parisiennes were wondering why I was asking suc

14、h elementary questions.Pascale, in her thirties, helps manage a restaurant on one of the large tourist boats that run up the Seine. She has lived in the Far East and traveled widely, so I was certain she could explain why French women are more chic than others.“Bof! ” she declared while sniffing a v

15、at of spaghetti sauce in her kitchen. (This is one of thoseuntranslatable French words that let you know you have just said something absurd.) I was startled. “ French women are not chic! Oh, yes, there are some chic women there are always some but most? bof! In my father' s generation, women al

16、ways had to be dressed up and looking theirbest, but that ' s changing. Women now are working, we don' t have as much time to worry aboutour appearance. ”Yet, I demanded, isn ' t it true that Parisians wearing pants look better than women elsewhere in pants? Pascale wiped her hands on th

17、e large chef ' aspron that covered her oversize khaki shirt jacket and black cotton pants. I noticed that she had on flat, well-made black shoes. Simple, neat.It turned out we had a semantics problem: “ Oui,if that ' wshat you mean by chic. Elegance is different than chic; elegance has to do

18、 with money, with leisure time, with upbringing, and education. The chic woman looks natural, not dressed up. Chic is not a matter of money. Chic means that, from head to toe, there is a sense of proportion.” And she suddenly reproportioned hsauce with a splash of white wine.“When I see American wom

19、en dressed up,” Pascale continued,“ I can see they ' ve made an efCostumes and clothes have always been more important in France than in America perhaps it ' s historical influence of artists here. In order to develop a sense of what looks natural, which proportions are right, one must make

20、an effort each day not just occasionally. Here we are told,from the time we ' re small, what looks right, what doesn' t. Our mothers tell us; magazines tell us;friends tell us.”More specifically, w hat does a French mother tell her daughter?“She discusses colors. The basics black, white, nav

21、y, burgundy, and beige are the foundation of an outfit. Black is especially good because you can wear whatever you want with it. American women tend to mix too many colors, which is distracting, not chic. I' ve also noticed that they often wear trendy shoes, ratherthan investing in classic, well

22、-made styles.“ In France, we ' re also taught to know our own figures and to transform faults into assets. I know one large woman who has an equally generous personality her wardrobe reflects her personality and size. Above all, you must be at ease in your clothes; a woman who is plump usually c

23、an ' wt ear tight things. On the other hand, there aren ' ritgid rules, just guidelines. A woman with large breasts is often told not to wear raglan sleeves, but if the shirt is cut well, sometimes this sort of sleeve can flatter her.”O(jiān)ne of the earliest lessons a French girl learns is to in

24、vest well in her clothes.g“Chic ihow to buy something that will last,” Pascale told me. “My basics must last for at least five, andoften ten or fifteen, years. By basics, I mean clothes that I can wear from morning through the night. Maybe in the evening I ' lal dd a special necklace and bracele

25、t, or a dressy belt the accessories make the difference.”Two other French women, Guillemette and Marie-Laure, took up where Pascale left off, remembering how they learned to dress. The night we met, Marie-Laure was wearing white pants, a lacy white blouse, black-and-white belt, white shoes, white ne

26、t stockings, and gold jewelry. Somehow, she had managed to avoid looking overdone. Guillemette, as always, had made up her eyes and mouth perfectly, but subtly. Her long hair was neatly pulled to one side and braided.“ When I was little, ” said Guillemette, “ my mother used to help me set out my clo

27、thes every night before school. She would say, Yes, that looks good together, ' or No, you can ' t wear tha with this one marry your colors well. ' “Marie- Laure nodded. “The mother 's influevnecrey iismportant to a French girl d'evseloping a sense of style. I remember one time I

28、 wanted to buy a turquoise dress and my mother refused, saying it was a bad color. We are taught to be discreet, subtle in our choice of color. There is nothing wrong with bright color, but it has to be worn delicately it shouldn ' t shout at you. ”They agreed with Pascale that French women are

29、less chic than they once were but attributed thisfact to the cost of clothes in Fr ance today. “ Italian women are the chic ones now, ” said Guillemette, whose in- laws live in Italy.“ Chic is a matter of how you put yourself together, and here even thesmallest pieces of clothing costs so much. A re

30、ally nice skirt or jacket by a designer even pr t ae porter is extremely expensive. That's why the young are always running around in jeans, clogs,and.”I was beginning to feel confused. True, not every woman on the streets of Paris looks terrific (some of the worst dyed hair in the world can be

31、found here), but enough of them do to make the rest of us take notice. Aren't French women, in fact, more chic? I checked with Judy Fayard, aLife magazine assistance editor and former Women's Wear Daily reporter, who has been watchingthe Paris fashion scene for almost ten years.“In general,

32、they are more chic,” she assured me. “Awareness of style is all around them becauseParis has been the fashion capital for so long. There is exposure to what designers are doing, and it penetrates down to the woman in the street faster here than anywhere.“French women are also much more aware of them

33、selves than your average American. They take better care of their bodies. It isn't just a question of weight. Here, even women of modest meansvisit the beauty salon regularly to have their legs depilated or to tan or have their nails done.They always have their hair cut well, and I don't thi

34、nk this is because they have better haircutters,but because Parisians go more often. They have the same attitude toward their bodies and clothes as they have toward food. They are willing to spend their money on it.”Judy feels that there are three basic differences between French and American women.

35、“ Frewomen are more self-confident in general, and this carries over into dressing. They are willing to experiment say, to roll up the sleeves of a silk shirt and wear it with jeans or stick a gold belt on jeans. I can 't think of any American woman who would do that until she had seen it in a m

36、agazine.“Second, the Frenchare basically conservative but without the sense of practicality that Americans have. Most American women are too practical to buy a wardrobe of different stockings toaccessorize their basic clothes.The greatest difference, she noted, is that looking n ice has become a hab

37、it for French women.“ At9:00 A.M. at the corner market, I ' mthe only one with my hair in a ponytail and no makeup.American women either get dressed up and when they do, you know they' re dresseodr upthey simply throw something on.' There ' s no such phrase in French! French women si

38、mply dongo around looking sloppy. ”Judy also pointed out that one can still get better-cut clothes in Paris even non-designer garments mimic the flattering lines of more expensive wear. French women still try, she added, to buy at least one nice undoubtedly expensive dress or suit and use accessorie

39、s (a cheap belt, scarf, or pin) to alter it during the course of frequent wearings.Although the French buy outfits just as American women do, they tend to skillfully mix the separate pieces and not wear the matched ensemble as often.“ They seem to have a practiced eyefor proportion when the hem goes

40、 up, the shoe goes down,” Judy said.“ It must be training. Ifyou see good stuff around you often en ough, you start to imitate it.”Looking around might have helped those fictional heroines who went home chic, but they also must have had plenty of francs. This season, a decent pair of shoes in Paris

41、costs at least $60; really nice pairs run from $80 to $150.A British woman who has made Paris home for four years explained that the price of clothes affects how you wear them.“ You can buy cheap French clothes, but they give out right away,Evelyn said.“ So you have no real choice but to spend more

42、inliltyia, knowing it will cost less inthe long run. French women never keep their good clothes in the closet. They don' t wear clotthey don ' t like in order to save ' their favorite things for special otchceayssioimnsply can' tafford to!“ Two years ago I bought a pair of St. Lauren

43、t pants on sale,” Evelyn continued.“ Even thcost a bundle but I knew I could wear them for years. This winter I had them altered so the legs would be more in style; otherwise, they would hang in the closet. That you have to do w'iths what your clothes here make them last. ” Evelyn pointed out th

44、at within a block of her apartment, there are three alteration shops, doing lively business. Nearby shoe-repair stores are also thriving.Women who buy expensive shoes often take them to the shop immediately to have protective layers put on the soles, so the leather will last longer.Maite Turgonet, a

45、 Parisian journalist who covers the fashion world, concurred that French women are less chic than they once were. By this time, however, I was beginning to understand that what we consider chic is something the French take for granted as a basic starting point. For them, chic is something beyond tha

46、t! So, for starters, I asked her what a Parisian would consider the key to simply looking nice.“ French women avoid clothes that are shocking,” she said.“ We have a strong sense of not wantin to appear ridiculous. Even in the craziest French fashions, there is always a classical base; clothes must b

47、e cut well."“Here a woman tries to be subtle,” she continued.“In New York, women seem to need to provethey are aware of fashion. The really fundamental rule is always be neat. You should be clean, your clothes ironed, your shoes polished. Then you must know and accept yourself; don't tryhid

48、e your faults that will only make you uncomfortable because you will be fighting what youare. American women often seem to be striving for some norm. If you're short, there is no point inwearing high heels just to make yourself look taller.”And if that 's the key to looking nice, then what e

49、lusive quality constitutes chic? What makes a classy woman stand out?“ Personality. Se-lfconfidence. A French woman dresses for herself, tries above all to please herselfin the way she looks because she must,if she 's going to please others.Pascale had made a similar comment. “ Chicis not a ques

50、tion of beauty or shape or age. It 's developing a self-identity, which you reflect in the way you dress. The sensuality of such a woman is subtle. ”Maite added that French women do not dress for men.“ French women don 't dress to be sexy. Ofcourse we do dress to seduce that 'dsifferent

51、from trying to catcha'man by wearing flamboyant clothes. The basic attitude is different. A French woman never feels she 'osfferi ng herself. There's never a sense of surrender, but an attitude ofI belong to me'. ”A few nights later, I brought the subject up again, at a dinner party.

52、 I was surprised to note that themen were as interested as the women. Since roles are more vaguely defined in France, men are free to talk finance and fashion.“ French women never try to look younger than their age,” said a businessman named Patrick.woman of seventy can be more interesting than one

53、of twenty. And they never try to fill a stereotype; each woman tries to find her own style.”“ Here, there 's an emphasis on imagination and creativity,” added Claude, a banker. “InStates, you can buy anything in any color, but in France the market is smaller, so designers have to decide that thi

54、s year they'll sell rethdey can 't afford to manufacture small quantities in lots ofdifferent colors Given that, French people must use imagination just to differentiate themselves.Odile, a translator, agreed.“a French woman tries to wnegatrhasot mbreinthgis out her individualpersonality. If

55、 you see an American woman who is considered chic, she's usually sun tanned, haslong legs, is blond, and sportif but looks just like everybody else who is this sort of chic!”Another guest, Isabelle, had just come back from a vacation in Palm Beach.“In Florida everyonewears shorts and T-shirts du

56、ring the day, then at night they dress up to seduce. In France, seductionis an all- day affair, part of your look, not just your clothes. It isn turn on a'ndt sooffm. ething”youI asked Isabelle if she had noticed that American women look at themselves more self-consciously. She thought a minute.

57、 “ Actually, she” said slowly, “ theydon 'steem to examine themselves critically very often. ” The others, most ohfawvehovmisited the States at least once, found that American women seemed a bit puritanical and shy about their bodies. A French woman, for example, is more relaxed about discussing

58、 or touching her breasts in public, if, say, conversing with a friend about the cut of a new bathing suit.More to the point, French women frequently stop to check their appearance in mirrors and without the self-consciousness that we have. This might be partly because there are more mirrors in Paris

59、 (in cafes, in the subway, on storefronts). These self- assessments don 't seem to stem from vanity, however, but from an honest desire to avoid sloppiness.My conversations with chic Parisian weren 'ctompletely theoretical, though. I did glean a few specific tips, just the sort of advice that made all the difference to those frumpy, fictional heroines: If you need a basic addition to your wardrobe such as a winter coat or suit spend as much as you can afford on it an