中國文化通覽13解讀

1、精選優(yōu)質(zhì)文檔-傾情為你奉上精選優(yōu)質(zhì)文檔-傾情為你奉上專心-專注-專業(yè)專心-專注-專業(yè)精選優(yōu)質(zhì)文檔-傾情為你奉上專心-專注-專業(yè)第一節(jié) 飲食文化中國烹飪中國的飲食調(diào)制方法自古就有繁瑣、復(fù)雜的特點(diǎn)。例如，尚秉和歷代社會(huì)風(fēng)俗事物考中介紹了禮記內(nèi)則中記載的“炮豚”法，“炮”是中國古代的一種飲食調(diào)制方法，從中便可略見一斑：先取豚若羊殺之，實(shí)棗于腹內(nèi)；再裹之以葦，涂之以泥，炮之使干，擘而摩去其油膜；再以稻米粉為糊，糊豚四周，煎于油鑊中，使干，置小鼎中；再將小鼎置大鑊沸湯中，湯勿滅鼎(勿使水浸入小鼎，敗肉味也)。煮三日三夜，而后調(diào)醯醢食之。正是在這樣的傳統(tǒng)下，適應(yīng)各地不同的特產(chǎn)、口味，便逐漸出現(xiàn)了各種不同的

2、調(diào)制方法。后來，在長期的實(shí)踐過程中，又逐漸形成了各種具有地方特色的飲食體系。比如魯菜(山東菜)、京菜(北京菜)、滬菜(上海菜)、蘇菜(江蘇菜)、浙菜(浙江菜)、川菜(四川菜)、徽菜(安徽菜)、粵菜(廣東菜)、湘菜(湖南菜)、鄂菜(湖北菜)、閩菜(福建菜)、陜菜(陜西菜)、東北菜(東北地區(qū)菜肴的總稱)、豫菜(河南菜)，以及仿膳菜(仿制的宮廷菜)、清真菜(回族菜的總稱)、素菜(由佛教寺院所創(chuàng)、由僧廚執(zhí)鼎、以非動(dòng)物原料烹制的菜肴)等。各個(gè)菜系或清雅或淳厚、或麻辣或酸甜，不僅各有自己的獨(dú)到之處，而且還各有自己的拿手好菜。比如閩菜中的“佛跳墻”，原名“全福壽”，用海參、廣肚、干貝、魚翅、火腿、蹄筋、香菇

3、、鴿子蛋、雞鴨等10余種名貴原料，置于壇中，再加骨湯、紹酒、香料等，以荷葉封口，密封壇內(nèi)，用文火煨制而成。據(jù)說，清代福州有一家菜館制作的“全福壽”香氣四溢，竟誘使隔壁寺院的一名高僧不顧佛門戒律，跳墻而入，飽餐了一頓。故又名“佛跳墻”。而魯菜中的“泰山三美”，則是用泰安的白菜、豆腐和水烹制的“白菜燉豆腐”，自然素雅，清香宜人。中國菜肴的花色之多、菜式之眾、制作之繁，是世界聞名的。中國菜還具有濃厚的文化底蘊(yùn)。傳說古代有一個(gè)名廚，只用兩個(gè)雞蛋就做出了4道“雅菜”：第一道菜，將兩個(gè)雞蛋黃煮熟放在盤子里，菜名叫“兩只黃鸝鳴翠柳”；第二道菜，將一個(gè)雞蛋清煮熟切成三角狀碼在盤子里，菜名叫“一行白鷺上青天”；

4、第三道菜，將另一個(gè)雞蛋清炒作碎末狀堆在盤子里，菜名叫“窗含西嶺千秋雪”；第四道菜，將4瓣蛋殼漂在一碗清湯里，菜名叫“門泊東吳萬里船”。而這4個(gè)菜名，恰好是杜甫的絕句。值得一提的是，中國菜講味道、重藝術(shù)，并不等于不重視營養(yǎng)。實(shí)際上，中國菜作為一種文化，很早就與中醫(yī)結(jié)下了密切的關(guān)系，在講究味道和意味的同時(shí)，更講究營養(yǎng)和保健。比如百草脫骨扒雞、黃芪汽鍋雞、蟲草全鴨、核桃鴨子、枸杞肉絲、人參蓮肉湯、當(dāng)歸羊肉羹、雙耳湯、羊肺湯、肝片湯等等，遠(yuǎn)比大塊的排骨和烤肉的營養(yǎng)價(jià)值要高。 Chinese Culinary ArtsChinese culinary arts are rather complicate

5、d, and in different places, there are different ways for preparing dishes. Many different cuisines unique to certain areas are formed, for instance, Shandong cuisine, Beijng cuisine, Shanghai cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Jiangsu cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine, Anhui cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Hubei cuisine, Fu

6、jian cuisine, Shannxi cuisine, Henan cuisine, north-eastern China cuisine, royal style cuisine, Muslim style cuisine and vegetarian cuisine.Each cuisine has its own specialty. For example, the Fujian cuisine has a dish called “happiness and longevity”. Its preparation is like this: first put some of

7、 the most nutritious ingredients (sea cucumber, dried scallop, sharks fin, ham, tendons of beef, doves eggs, chicken, duck, etc) into a jar, then add some bone broth, Shaoxing rice wine and spices, next, cover the mouth of the jar with a lotus leaf, and last, simmer it on the stove. Its not hard to

8、imagine how delicious and nutritious the dish would be. This dish has another well-known name “Buddha jumping over the wall”. It may sound strange, but theres an interesting story behind it. It is said that during the Qing Dynasty, a restaurant in Fuzhou (the capital city of Fujian Province) was ver

9、y famous for its dishes. One day, the restaurant made the dish “happiness and longevity”, the aroma of the dish was so appetizing and spread so far that a monk in a nearby temple just couldnt resist the temptation. In the end, he put aside the Buddhist discipline, jumped over the wall into the resta

10、urant, and ate to his hearts content. What happened to the monk afterwards, we do not know, but the reputation of the dish “Buddha jumping over the wall” spread afar.Generally speaking, there are three essential factors by which Chinese cooking is judged, namely: “color, aroma and taste”. “Color” re

11、fers to the layout and design of the dishes. “Aroma” implies not only the smell of the dish, but also the freshness of the materials and the blending of seasonings. “Taste” involves proper seasoning and fine slicing techniques. These three essential factors are achieved by careful coordination of a

12、series of delicate activities: selecting ingredients, mixing flavors, timing and cooking, adjustment of the heat, and laying out the food on the plate.What is worth mentioning is that theres a lot of cultural background knowledge involved in the naming of Chinese dishes. Often, its hard, even for th

13、e Chinese people themselves, to tell what is actually in a certain dish until it is served on the table. Of course, one can always turn to the waiter or waitress for explanation. In most cases, waiters and waitresses are ready to satisfy ones curiosity.Apart from having regard for the above-mentione

14、d three essential factors “color, aroma and taste”, Chinese cuisine attaches great importance to nutrition. As a matter of fact, Chinese cuisine has long been closely related to traditional Chinese medicine. Ginseng, walnut, Chinese angelica and the fruit of Chinese wolfberry are often used as ingre

15、dients in certain Chinese dishes. 中國筷子與其他民族一樣，中國最初的食用方法也是“以手奉飯”，也就是用手抓，或用手撕，至于使用筷、叉、刀、匙等進(jìn)餐用具，則都是較晚的方法。其中，筷子是中國進(jìn)餐習(xí)俗中的一絕，至今已有數(shù)千年的歷史。筷子是日常生活中經(jīng)常用到的一種進(jìn)餐工具，也是中國人進(jìn)餐時(shí)的必備用具。古代稱為“箸”，也寫作“筯”或“櫡”等，今俗稱筷子。其形或下圓上方、或上下全圓而上粗下細(xì)，其制必長短相等、粗細(xì)相類，其用必成雙成對(duì)、雙箸齊舉。通常以右手持筷，夾取飯菜。筷子的發(fā)明充分顯示了中國人的靈巧和智慧。著名學(xué)者李政道曾說：“中國人早在春秋戰(zhàn)國時(shí)代就發(fā)明了筷子。如此簡

16、單的兩根東西，卻高妙絕倫地應(yīng)用了物理學(xué)上的杠桿原理。筷子是人類手指的延伸，手指能做的事，它都能做，且不怕高熱，不怕寒凍，真是高明極了。比較起來，西方人大概到16世紀(jì)、17世紀(jì)才發(fā)明了刀叉，但刀叉哪能跟筷子相比呢?”日本的學(xué)者也曾測定：人在使用筷子夾取食物時(shí)，需要80多個(gè)關(guān)節(jié)和50條肌肉的協(xié)調(diào)運(yùn)動(dòng)，并且與腦神經(jīng)有關(guān)。因此，用筷子吃飯可以使人心靈手巧。鄭傳寅、張健中國民俗辭典中對(duì)筷子的形成、發(fā)展作了較精練的概括：“筷子，以竹木等材料制成的挾食器具。廣泛流傳于漢族和某些少數(shù)民族地區(qū)。遠(yuǎn)古時(shí)，用樹枝、竹棍或天然的動(dòng)物骨角制成，后改為竹、木刮削后制成。夏、商有牙筷、玉筷問世。春秋戰(zhàn)國，又有銅筷和鐵筷。漢

17、魏六朝，始生產(chǎn)漆筷。稍后，又出現(xiàn)了銀筷和金筷。以牙筷、犀角筷、烏木鑲金筷和各種玉筷最為名貴?！笨曜拥钠鹪春茉纭?jù)考證，在原始社會(huì)時(shí)期，古人類已經(jīng)懂得用樹枝、竹棍來插取或夾取食物，后來便逐漸演變成了木箸和竹箸。大約在距今三、四千年前的商代，就已經(jīng)有了象牙箸和玉箸。韓非子喻老載：“昔者，紂為象箸，而箕子怖。”可見以“酒池肉林”而臭名昭著的商紂王不僅追求飲食上的享受，而且在飲食用具上也變得奢侈起來。直至近代以后，“筷子”這一稱呼方盛行于民間，而“箸”這一稱呼則漸被淡忘。今民間唯稱盛筷子的器具叫“箸籠子”，尚是“箸”這一古稱的遺留。 Chinese Chopsticks Similar to peop

18、le of other nationalities, ancient Chinese people grasped or tore food with their bare hands at the beginning. Chopsticks, forks, knives and spoons were used much later, of which chopsticks, with a history of thousands of years, are a wonder of Chinese dining utensils.Chopsticks are the dining utens

19、ils most frequently used in Chinese peoples daily life. In ancient China, they were called zhu. Their upper parts are square and lower parts round, or they are all round with thicker upper parts and thinner lower parts. Whatever their shapes, the pair must be identical to each other. Normally people

20、 hold chopsticks with the right hand to pick up food. The invention of chopsticks fully displayed the dexterity and intelligence of the Chinese people. According to some Japanese scholars, to properly handle chopsticks requires the coordination of over 80 joints and 50 muscles, whats more, certain c

21、ranial nerves are also involved. Therefore, using chopsticks can help make people more dexterous and intelligent.Zheng Quanyin and Zhang Jian made a succinct summary about the invention and development of chopsticks in the Dictionary of Chinese Folk Customs, “Chopsticks, a food picking utensil made

22、of bamboo or wood, is widely used by the Hans and some minority ethnic groups. In remote ages, they were made of branches, bamboo or natural animal bones. Later they were made of scraped bamboo or wood. Ivory and jade chopsticks appeared during the Xia and Shang dynasties; bronze and iron chopsticks

23、 emerged during the Spring and Autumn Period. Laquer chopsticks did not appear until the Han Dynasty. Later silver and gold chopsticks were made. Among all kinds of chopsticks, the ones made with rhinoceros horns, jade or ebony inlaid with gold were the rarest.”It is generally held that chopsticks b

24、egan to be called kuaizi since the Ming Dynasty. In Soybean Garden Notes by Lu Rong, “Different areas have different taboos. In the central area of Jiangsu province, People abstain from saying zhu (homonym of chopsticks, meaning stop), instead they say kuaier. In north China, chopsticks were called

25、kuaizi. But in the documents of the Ming and the Qing dynasties, kuaizi was seldom used, instead, zhu was often used to refer to chopsticks, especially in literary works. As a story goes, “A person invited his friends to dinner but miscounted the number of zhu. When the dishes were served, everybody

26、 picked their zhu and started eating except one who only watched and did not move. After a while, he said to the host, Please give me a bowl of water. The host asked, What for? He answered, To clean my hands so that I may pick up food with them.”The term kuaizi was not widely called till the modern

27、times. Meanwhile, the term zhu became obsolete. 中國宴席禮儀中國自古以來就是一個(gè)文明禮儀之邦。這種“文明禮儀”表現(xiàn)在飲食文化上，便出現(xiàn)了諸多的宴席禮節(jié)。首先是宴席的座次。中國人非常講究“長幼有序”，這種禮儀規(guī)范應(yīng)用到圍方桌或圓桌聚餐的宴席上，便形成了嚴(yán)格講究宴席座次的傳統(tǒng)禮俗。古代酒席一般是席地圍坐，其座次的順序尚不得而知，但肯定是有區(qū)別的。據(jù)資料記載：古代宴席以坐西面東為尊位，坐北面南次之，坐南面北又次之，坐東面西為下座。比如鴻門宴上的座次是：“項(xiàng)王、項(xiàng)伯東向坐，亞父南向坐。亞父者，范增也；沛公北向坐，張良西向侍?！逼渲许?xiàng)王、項(xiàng)伯的位置是主座，

28、而范增的位置則似乎應(yīng)該是客座，本來應(yīng)該是劉邦坐的。鴻門宴上的這種座次，表明了項(xiàng)羽對(duì)劉邦的輕視。再比如段成式劍俠傳中記載：“遂揖客入宴，升堂當(dāng)席而坐，二少年列坐兩旁。”這里所謂“當(dāng)席而坐”者，應(yīng)是主席的位置。到了明清時(shí)期，人們對(duì)酒席上座次的要求越來越嚴(yán)格，如水滸傳、紅樓夢中對(duì)座次的要求都是非常嚴(yán)格的。即使是現(xiàn)在，日常生活中稍微正規(guī)一些的場合，人們對(duì)酒席上的座次仍然有嚴(yán)格的要求，但各地的習(xí)慣卻并不一樣。過去，中國民間喜歡用正方形的八仙桌，北方八仙桌的座次一般是：面門的兩個(gè)座位為正座，其中右位為主客，左位是主人；正座的對(duì)面(即背門的兩個(gè)座位)為陪座，通常是晚輩或主人家找來的陪客；左右兩側(cè)為側(cè)座，或客

29、人或陪客，大多依年齡長幼順序而坐，靠近正座者為上，靠近陪座者為下。南方的八仙桌座次略有不同，即正座對(duì)面為三、四賓位，有點(diǎn)像西方的長方形餐桌。此外，現(xiàn)在比較講究的圓桌宴席也是很有講究的。一般面門而坐的位置是主陪位，但如果桌子并不沖門口，則要看墻上的壁畫，有壁畫的一面為正面；或是看酒杯中的餐巾的形狀，一般主陪酒杯中的餐巾是中間對(duì)折的圓筒狀或鳥頭狀(其他的則是各種花形)。主陪位的右面是主賓位，左邊是副主賓位，對(duì)面則是副陪位；副陪位的左邊是三賓位，右邊是四賓位。也有副主陪的左右為兩位酒陪，恰與主賓、副主賓成對(duì)角線，其任務(wù)是分別負(fù)責(zé)陪主賓和副主賓喝酒；其他的則如八仙桌的側(cè)座，可以隨便坐。其次是上菜的順序

30、和擺菜的位置。上菜，又稱“出菜”或“走菜”。所謂上菜的順序，就是指菜肴依次端上宴席的次序。實(shí)際上，宴席上的“出菜”有廣義、狹義之分。廣義的出菜，是指酒、菜、飯的上席順序，狹義的出菜則僅指菜肴的上席順序。端上席的菜肴擺放在宴席的什么位置，也是中國宴席非常講究的一個(gè)內(nèi)容。禮記曲禮中記載了古代上菜置食的總體次序：“凡進(jìn)食之禮，左肴右；食居人之左，羹居人之右；膾炙處外，醯醬處內(nèi)，蔥處末，酒漿處右?！庇矛F(xiàn)在的話來說，就是：大凡上菜的禮節(jié)，炒菜(指小塊的魚肉)放在右邊，煮熟的大塊肉放在左邊；干菜放在左邊，湯菜放在右邊；切細(xì)和燒烤的魚肉放的遠(yuǎn)些，醋、醬等調(diào)味品放在近處；生蔥和蒸蔥等佐料放在遠(yuǎn)處，酒水等飲料則

31、放在右手方便觸及的地方。單獨(dú)一道菜的擺放也有講究，據(jù)禮記少儀記載，進(jìn)獻(xiàn)紅燒或清蒸等帶湯汁的魚肴時(shí)，要將魚尾朝向賓客；冬天魚肚向著客人的右方，夏天魚脊向著客人的右方?，F(xiàn)在宴席上的置菜位置雖然與古代不同，比如現(xiàn)在上魚的時(shí)候是將魚頭沖著主賓，但仍有傳承。尤其是在正式的宴席上，什么菜擺在什么地方，都有一定的講究。比如：新上的菜都要放在靠主席或主賓的位置；上整雞、整鴨、整魚時(shí)，一般將頭部沖著主席或主賓，以示尊敬等等。再次是進(jìn)食的規(guī)范和主客的禮節(jié)。中國人喜歡圍坐聚餐，而聚餐必然是“眾人共器”，所以特別注意進(jìn)食的規(guī)范。禮記曲禮中就規(guī)定：“共食不飽，共飯不澤手，毋摶飯，毋放飯，毋流，毋咤食，毋嚙骨，毋反魚肉，

32、毋投與狗骨?！贝笠馐钦f：大家一起聚餐的時(shí)候，不能只顧自己吃飽；一同在飯盤里用手抓飯的時(shí)候，不能搓手，不能多拿(把飯團(tuán)成一個(gè)飯團(tuán))，不能把粘在手上的飯拂放回盤中；吃菜的時(shí)候，嘴里不能漏湯，不能咂嘴出聲，不能嚼骨頭，不能把已經(jīng)夾取的魚肉再放回盤中，不能扔骨頭給狗。甚至包括如何剔牙縫都做出了具體規(guī)定。這些進(jìn)食的規(guī)范，或多或少地都流傳到了現(xiàn)在。至于主客之間的禮節(jié)，古代規(guī)定更為詳細(xì)。比如“客若降等，執(zhí)食興辭，主人興辭于客，然后客坐”；“主人親饋，則拜而食；主人不親饋，則不拜而食”；“侍飲于長者，酒進(jìn)則起，拜受于尊所。長者辭，少者反席而飲。長者舉未，少者不敢飲。長者賜，少者、賤者不敢辭”等等(均見于禮記曲

33、禮)。還有“膝席”、“避席”、“避席伏”等禮節(jié)，可謂繁瑣而細(xì)致。這些繁文縟節(jié)在今天雖然已經(jīng)不再流行，卻仍有一定的傳承。 The Etiquette of Chinese Banquets China has long been known as the “l(fā)and of ceremony and propriety”. Consequently, there are certain manners that should be observed at banquets or formal dinners.First, seat order. Chinese people attach grea

34、t importance to the seating order at banquets or formal dinners.In the ancient times, at a banquet, people sat in a circle on the ground. Their seating arrangements are unknown, but it is certain that they were arranged in a certain order. It was recorded that the most honorable guest sat facing the

35、 east, the next important guest sat facing the south, next facing the north and the last facing the west.During the Ming and the Qing dynasties, people were more fastidious about the arrangements of seats at banquets. From descriptions in Chinese classics A Dream of Red Mansions(The Story of the Sto

36、ne) and Outlaws of the Marsh, we can see that there were strict rules regarding seat order.Even today at formal banquets people are arranged in a certain order, but in different areas, there are different rules concerning seat order. In the past, Chinese people often sat around a so-called eight-imm

37、ortal table (a table with a rectangular top, normally with eight seats around it) to dine. In the north, the seat order was arranged this way: the two seats facing the door were the most important, the host sat on the right and the most honorable guest on the left; opposite these two seats sat two s

38、pecially invited guests who were supposed to help entertain the main guests; the other people, guests or specially invited guests, were arranged, according to their age, to sit on the other two sides of the table. The two seats closer to the host and most honorable guest were considered more importa

39、nt than the other two seats. In the south, the seat order was a bit different; it was similar to the seat order in the west.Today for round table banquets, there are also special rules regarding seat order. Normally, the host sits facing the door, the one who sits on his right is the most honorable

40、guest, the one who sits on his left the secondary guest, the one sitting facing the host is the vice host, the one sitting on the left of the viee host is the third guest, and the one sitting on the right of the vice host is the fourth guest.Apart from seat order, there are also rules regarding the

41、order of serving dishes and the way dishes are set on the table. Dishes, in the broad sense, refer to wine (or liquor), meat and vegetable dishes and grain food; in the narrow sense, it only refers to meat and vegetable dishes. The rules have undergone some changes. In the ancient times, grain food

42、was served before wine, while today wine and meat and vegetable dishes are served before grain food.For meat and vegetable dishes, there are cold dishes and hot dishes. Normally cold dishes are served before hot ones, dry dishes are served before soup. Hot dishes are the main course; usually there a

43、re even numbers of hot dishes, 4, 6 or 8. Sometimes there could be 16 or 32 dishes. The most sumptuous feastMan Han Feast, has as many as 108 dishes. Soup is usually the last dish. In some places, however, fish (the Chinese word for fish is yu,which is a homonym of surplus) is the last dish, which s

44、ymbolizes that there will always be a surplus of food for people to eat.For the way dishes are set on the table, there are also rules. For example, newly served dishes are always put near the most honorable guest; when whole fish, whole chicken or whole duck is served, the dish is normally put in su

45、ch a way that the head is towards the most honorable guest. This is a way to show respect to the most honorable guest.In order to show their respect and hospitality, Chinese hosts often help the guests to the dishes. For hygienes sake, when doing this, they usually use an extra pair of chopsticks or

46、 spoon put on the table. 第二節(jié) 酒文化 在中國的飲食結(jié)構(gòu)中歷來就有重菜輕飯的傳統(tǒng)，而菜又總是離不開酒。所以，中國的宴席上總少不了酒，其實(shí)所謂的宴席也就是酒席。正因如此，酒文化也就成了中國飲食文化當(dāng)中極富民俗特色的一大內(nèi)容。 酒文化的源流 從科學(xué)史的角度來講，最早的酒是自然發(fā)酵的果酒。新石器時(shí)代的仰韶文化時(shí)期的遺址中，曾出土有若干小型容器，估計(jì)可能是酒器。龍山文化時(shí)期，古人已從野果釀酒發(fā)展為谷物釀酒，并出土了各種酒器。1974年，在河北平山戰(zhàn)國時(shí)期的中山王墓中，出土了距今2 200多年以前的兩銅壺古酒，據(jù)說尚有酒香。經(jīng)技術(shù)分析，證實(shí)為曲釀酒。商代，谷物造酒已很普遍，并且

47、飲酒的風(fēng)氣極盛。從商代出土的大量飲酒器、貯酒器來看，古文獻(xiàn)中的“酒池肉林”是可信的。史記殷本紀(jì)中記載：商紂王“大聚樂戲于沙丘，以酒為池，懸肉為林，使男女倮相逐其間，為長夜之飲”。商代的高級(jí)酒叫“鬯”，是一種用黑黍和郁金香草釀造的酒，主要用于祭祀降神和賞賜有功的諸侯；普通飲用的酒叫“醴”，是一種用蘗(即麥芽)做酒曲制成的甜酒。明清時(shí)期，伴隨著造酒業(yè)的進(jìn)一步發(fā)展，出現(xiàn)了不少地方名酒。明代王世貞曾寫過酒品前后二十絕組詩，分別介紹了桑落酒、羊羔酒、章丘酒、金華酒、麻姑酒等名酒的產(chǎn)地、來歷及特點(diǎn)等等?？傊?，在漫長的歷史發(fā)展過程中，中國的酒文化得到了不斷的豐富和發(fā)展，不僅是酒的品種不斷增多，而且與酒相關(guān)的

48、一些文化現(xiàn)象也越來越豐富，最終形成了頗具民族特色的中國酒文化。 酒令 酒令是一種飲酒時(shí)的游戲，一般推舉一人為令官，飲者聽其號(hào)令，違則有罰。梁書王規(guī)傳記載：“湘東王時(shí)為京尹，與朝士宴集，屬規(guī)為酒令。規(guī)從容對(duì)曰：自江左以來，未有此舉?！焙髞?，在酒席上根據(jù)一定的規(guī)則行令飲酒，也叫作酒令或行酒令，比如“頂針續(xù)麻”、“射覆猜枚”、“拇戰(zhàn)豁拳”等。凡行酒令者，須首先飲盡門前杯，方取得行令的資格。明清時(shí)期，酒令的方式和內(nèi)容越來越多樣化，遂成為酒文化中極富情趣的一種文化現(xiàn)象。清代的紅樓夢、聊齋志異、鏡花緣等古典文學(xué)名著當(dāng)中，就保留了不少關(guān)于酒令的記載。比如聊齋志異鬼令所記的酒令：酒數(shù)行，或以字為令曰：“田字不

49、透風(fēng)，十字在當(dāng)中；十字推上去，古字贏一鐘?！币蝗嗽唬骸盎刈植煌革L(fēng)，口字在當(dāng)中；口字推上去，呂字贏一鐘?！币蝗嗽唬骸班蜃植煌革L(fēng)，令字在當(dāng)中；令字推上去，含字贏一鐘?！庇忠蝗嗽唬骸袄ё植煌革L(fēng)，木字在當(dāng)中；木字推上去，杏字贏一鐘。”末至展，凝思不得。眾笑曰：“既不能令，須當(dāng)受命?！憋w一觥來。展即云：“我得之矣：曰字不透風(fēng)，一字在當(dāng)中”眾又笑曰：“推作何物?”展吸盡曰：“一字推上去，一口一大鐘?！笨傊?，酒令作為酒宴中的一種游戲，不僅增加了人們飲酒時(shí)的情趣，而且也進(jìn)一步促進(jìn)了中國酒文化的興盛。時(shí)至今日，酒文化仍然是人們?nèi)粘Ｉ町?dāng)中的一個(gè)重要內(nèi)容。 中國名酒 中國是酒文化的故鄉(xiāng)，在中國歷史上曾出現(xiàn)過許多名

50、酒。現(xiàn)在的許多地方名酒，也都是從古代發(fā)展而來的，主要是從明清時(shí)期發(fā)展而來。1952年，全國第一次評(píng)酒會(huì)上評(píng)出了“八大名酒”，即茅臺(tái)、汾酒、西鳳、瀘州老窖、紹興加飯酒、紅玫瑰葡萄酒、味美思酒、金獎(jiǎng)白蘭地；1963年，中國舉辦了全國第二次評(píng)酒會(huì)，會(huì)上評(píng)出了“十八大名酒”，即：茅臺(tái)(貴州仁懷茅臺(tái)鎮(zhèn))、汾酒(山西汾陽杏花村)、西鳳(陜西鳳翔柳林鎮(zhèn))、瀘州老窖大曲酒(四川瀘州)、紹興加飯酒(浙江紹興)、紅玫瑰葡萄酒、味美思酒(山東煙臺(tái))、金獎(jiǎng)白蘭地(山東煙臺(tái))、五糧液酒(四川宜賓)、古井貢酒(安徽亳縣)、全興大曲酒(四川成都)、夜光杯中國紅葡萄酒(北京)、竹葉青酒(山西汾陽杏花村)、白葡萄酒(山東青島)

51、、董酒(貴州遵義)、特制白蘭地酒(北京)、沉缸酒(福建龍巖)、青島啤酒(山東青島)；1979年全國第三屆評(píng)酒會(huì)也評(píng)出了“十八大名酒”：茅臺(tái)酒、汾酒、五糧液酒、古井貢酒、洋河大曲酒(江蘇泗陽洋河鎮(zhèn))、劍南春酒(四川綿竹)、中國紅葡萄酒、煙臺(tái)味美思酒、青島白葡萄酒、金獎(jiǎng)白蘭地酒、董酒、北京特制白蘭地酒、瀘州老窖特曲酒、紹興加飯酒、竹葉青酒、青島啤酒、煙臺(tái)紅葡萄酒、沉缸酒。并且，一些從古代流傳至今的名酒，還往往伴隨著大量的文人吟詠和一些優(yōu)美的民間傳說。 Section 2 The Wine Culture Wine culture is an important part of the Chines

52、e food and drink culture. According to The Book of Rites, the water ancient Chinese offered to god was called xuanjiu or mingshui by later generations. As to the inventor of wine, there are several versions, but the most popular one is that a person called Du Kang made it. Du kang or Shao Kang was r

53、egarded as the inventor of wine.From the scientific point of view, the earliest wine was a naturally fermented fruit wine. Some drinking vessels were found from the neolithic Yangshao Culture sites. During the period of Longshan culture, fruit wine developed into grain wine, and various kinds of dri

54、nking vessels were unearthed. In 1974, two drinking vessels made of copper more than 2200 years ago (during the Warring States Period) were found in King Zhongshans tomb at Pingshan, Hebei province. It was said that the liquid inside the two vessels smelt sweet. According to technical analysis it wa

55、s proved to be twice fermented liquor.In a word, Chinese wine culture, with its unique national characteristics, was constantly enriched and developed. There have been more and more kinds of wine, and many cultural customs concerning wine. Drinking Etiquette In ancient China, there were rules about

56、drinking wine. For example, the mouth of the wine bottle should be pointed toward the most senior person; one should drink the wine completely, otherwise, he would be fined; the junior was not supposed to drink before the senior drank; after one finished drinking the wine, he should raise the cup fo

57、r others to see, etc.During the period of drinking, people often played a drinkers wager game. When playing the game, one person was in charge and the others obeyed him and would be punished if they violated the rules. It has been very popular since the Tang Dynasty. The drinkers must first drink up

58、 their cups of wine completely before they were qualified to play the game. There are descriptions of this wager game in many Chinese literary classics, such as A Dream of Red Mansions (The Story of the Stone) and Stories of the Ghosts.The drinkers wager game not only brought fun to the drinkers at

59、the banquet, but also promoted the popularization of Chinese wine culture. Nowadays wine culture is still an important part of Chinese peoples daily life. Famous Chinese Wine Many famous Chinese wines of the present day developed from ancient times, mainly from the Ming and the Qing dynasties. At th

60、e First National Wine Appraisal Conference held in 1952, eight brands of famous Chinese wine were awarded a prize. They were Guizhou Maotai, Shanxi Fenjiu, Shaanxi Xifeng, Luzhou Laojiao, Shaoxing Jiafan, Red Rose Grape Wine, Weimeisi and Special Fine Brandy. At the Second National Wine Appraisal Co