文稿成果針織3jarquardselection

etousethePPTaboutWEFTKNITTINGTECHetousethePPTaboutWEFTKNITTINGTECHDept.ofKnittingandChapter3PatternstructureandknittingtechPart1PatternStitch-11JacquardTheselectedyarnisfedintosomeneedlestoformJacquardstitch,andtheunselectedoneisfloatingonthebackofneedle.Needle: knittedUnitnon-float·Knittedstitch+floatJacquardJacquardWeftknittedjacquarddesignsarebuiltupfromselectedcolorfaceloopsonabasefabricofeithersinglejersey,1+1rib,orlinks-links(purl).Thefaceloopneedlesareindividuallyselected,usuallyonceperpatternrow,toriseandtakeoneyarnfromasequenceofdifferentcoloredyarnfeedersonaknitormissbasis.JacquardIntwo-colorjacquard,certainneedleswillbeselectedtoknitcolorAandatthenextfeedertherewillbeanegativeselectionwiththeremainingneedlesknittingcolorBsothatthefaceloopsoftwofeedercoursescombinetoproduceonecompleterowoffacepatternloops.Inthree-colorjacquard,eachneedlewillbeselectedtoknitonceandmisstwiceatasequenceofthreefeederssothatthreefeedercourseswillproduceonepatternrow.Jacquardregularjacquard均勻/規(guī)則提花regularJacquardregularjacquard均勻/規(guī)則提花regularjacquardonDouble-jerseyregularjacquardononlyfrontJacquardinstitch+1Regularjacquardonsingle-jersey·Intherepeatofcolorset,eachneedleonlyworksonceandknitacertaincoloryarnintoloop.JacquardJacquardDrawknittingdiagramandloopstructureaccordingtothepatternnotation.JacquardPropertiesofsingle-jerseyregularEachcolorappearsonceinarepeat,ifit2-colorjacquard,therewouldbe2colorsinonepatternSamesizeofloop,evenanduniformThereis/arefloatsbehindeachloop,thenumberoffloatsequalstothenumberofcolorminus1.e.g:2colorjacquard,only1floatbehindeachloopTheknittingtimesofeachneedleisthesame,ineachpatterncoursetheneedleknitsonlyonceCauselongfloatandsnagging,normallylengthoffloatlessthan4-5coursewidh.JacquardJacquard2)Single-jerseyirregular·Inacertaincycleperiodofcoloryarn,theknittingfrequencyofeachneedleisdifferent.(Notonlylimitedtoonce)JacquardPropertiesofsingle-jerseyirregularIntherepeat,theknittingtimesofeachneedleisnotthesame,notlimitedtoonlyoncelikethatofsingle-jerseyregularjacquardThesizesoftheloopsnotequalirregularstructure,piqueeffect凹凸效應.Noknock-overinseveralcontinuousknittingThemorenonknock-over,themorepiqueThenumberofnonknock-overiscalledasloop線圈指數(shù)Loop JacquardysisofthestructurepropertiesoftheknittingLoopJacquardysisofthestructurepropertiesoftheknittingdiagramandgiveoutcorrespondingloopstructure&patternnotationJacquardJacquard3)Single-jerseyirregularjacquardwith2ormulti-colorReducingfloaingExistingwales inUnevenExpandingtherangeofpatternandshortingthefloatingyarnJacquardNeedlesinsomewalesknitsineverycoursetoformdimpledNeedlesinsomewalesknitsinspacedcoursetoformblisterSnaggingcanbepreventedbytheshortfloatingyarnTheheightdifferenceof andjacquardloop=numberofcoloryarn-1theexistenceofinwale(s)JacquardJacquardCompletejacquardarea完全提Floatjacquardwithbird’seyebacking芝麻regularjacquard均勻Completejacquard:AlldialneedlesareknittingtoformFloatjacquardwithbird’seyeback:Dialneedlesareknittingcoloryarnonlyalternativelytoformfabric.JacquardFeaturesofcompletejacquarda)Horizontalstripeonbackb)Walesdensityoffrontface:walesdensityofback:face=1:numberofcoloredyarnc)Numberofcoloredyarn:2-JacquardFeaturesoffloatjacquardJacquardFeaturesoffloatjacquardwithbird’seyebackbigbird’ssmallbird’sThewalesdensityoffrontandbackloopisdifferentalongwiththedifferentofnumberofcoloredyarn.JacquardPatternnotationoffabricBirdseye3-colorirregularJacquardJacquardFeaturesandUsageofJacquardFloatingLowravelproperty;LowproductivityFurnishingTechnicalJacquardSingle-jerseySingle-jerseyjacquardusesknitandmissstitchestoproducejacquardpattern.Thefloatsinthesingle-jerseyjacquardreducethela extensibilityofthefabrics.Thefloatsonthetechnicalbackcancreateproblemsofsnagging.Inaccordionfabrics,thelongfloatsareheldin onthetechnicalbackbytuckstitches.Twocomplementaryrowscanproduceasingle-jerseytwo-colorjacquard.JacquardJacquardRibInribjacquard,tuckstitchesareunnecessaryastheothersetofneedlesknitsthebackingloopsandthus theproblemsoffloats.Almostwithoutexceptionthepatter-basedneedleselectionisundertakenoncylinderneedles,whilethereversesideofthejacquardfabricisproducedonthedialneedles.Horizontalstriperbacking,verticalstriperbackingandtwillbackingareusedforthetechnicalbackoftheribJacquardHorizontalStriper橫條提AlldialneedlesworkateachDependingonthenumberofjacquardcolorsthecoursedensityonthebacksideistwice,threeorfourtimeshigherthanontheface(patterned)side.Therawfabrichasatendencyofrolling-uptowardsthefaceside.JacquardVerticalStriperShortandlongdialneedlesareJacquardVerticalStriperShortandlongdialneedlesareworkedwitha1:1Suchabacksideisnormallyusedonlyforatwo-colorThecoursedensityisthesameonboththefabricTherawfabricdoesnottendtoroll-JacquardTwillTheshortandlongdialneedlesareworkedwitha1:1EachcolorisprocessedonashortandonalongdialOnthebacksideallpatterncolorsappearalongthewalesalternayinhecolorsequenceusedandarestaggeredtowards交錯，叉排oneanotherintwosuccessivewales.JacquardJacquardTypeofneedle《針織學》 如Directneedlecontrol直接式選針MulticamtrackpatternwheelneedlesteelIndirectneedlecontrol間接式選針needleselectingMechanical:jackselector,jacquard,JacquardKnittingmethodandMotiontrailof·knitandNo.1,3needle——SelectedneedlewhichformsnewloopNo.2needle——UnselectedneedlewhichformsfloatingJacquardJacquardsingle-jerseysingle-jerseyregulardouble-jerseyfrontface:knittingastheruleofbackface:floatjacquardwithbird’seyeJacquardMotiontrailofTrail1:Selectedneedle:Trail2:Unselectedneedle:non-JacquardMulti-trackexchangeable-camneedleDifferentButtPositionsJacquardMulti-trackexchangeable-camneedleDifferentButtPositionsPrincipleof?needlehavingbuttwithdifferentheight+correspondingcam?single-jerseyfour-cam-track?double-jerseyfour-cam-trackJacquardNeedleand(knit(tuck5Pressingbutt1-(floating butt(drop0SelectingbuttJacquardJacquard) inih0:knittingcam1-4:exitb)0:camforwithdrawingneedleexits1-4:knit/tuck/missArrangementofStraightbutt/或步步低Mirrorrepeatbutt對稱排針JacquardExampleAfullWidthofpattern:4Heightofpattern:48cam2camsystemsknitoneAstraightbuttset-outisarrangedinanascendingorderinthedirectionofknitting.Eachbuttpositionisusedonceonlyintheset-outrepeatsothepatternwidthisequaltothenumberofavailablebuttpositions.JacquardJacquardExample2camsystemsknitonecourse.NeedlearrangementmirrorrepeatJacquardParametersofpatternformingWidthofaHeightofamJacquardmJacquardDifferentButtPositions_SizeofpatternNo.ofdifferentpatternwaleB0&B0=n(選針踵位數(shù)No.ofdifferentpatterncourseH0&H0=3n-1---allneedlesmissedJacquardJacquardPrincipleofpoking leverneedleselection撥片式選針a)?Patternbit—needlejack—b)Needleselectionpatternbit提花39stepc)Poking teposition：left,middle,rightd)Patternbit39-stepbit，onlybitleft,1～37needleselectionJacquard(push(elevating(cylinderpoking(patternJacquardJacquardPrincipleofneedleCenter：noactionpatternbit,needlereaches clearingposition=>KnitRight：leftoutandrightin,needlereachestuckposition=>Left：rightinandleft,no raisingoftheneedle=>MisttJacquard Center:poking tedoesnotactonthepatternbit,andthebuttofcorrespondingpushjackisexposedoutofthedialtopresstheneedletotheclearingheight(loopJacquard Right:Theneedleispressedtothetuckheightbytheelevatingcam(tucking)Jacquard Right:Theneedleispressedtothetuckheightbytheelevatingcam(tucking)Jacquard Left:patternbitiscameintotheneedlegrooveby te,whichmakestheneedleexitingJacquardJacquardJacquardSizeofrepeatisrelatedwithstepofjackbuts提花片的選針齒齒數(shù),camsystemandtotalnumberofneedlesWidthofafullstraightbuttset-?B=37,setBmax=36tomakethepatternbedividedexactlybyN.mirrorrepeatbuttset-?B=37×2=74,setBmax=72tomakethepatternbedevidedexactly整除erchange?B=JacquardJacquardHeightofafull–M－knittingsystem;e－colorH≠HmaxinactualifM/Hisainteger,theknittingnumberofpatternisM/H,whereas,theresudual/leftknittingsystemissettonotknit(leftin&rightoutforthepoking JacquardExampleUsingS2P172singlejacquardcircularmachinewith72knittingsystemsandthestepsofpoking bitis37.WidthofpatternB=12,heightofpatternH=12straightbuttset-outThefigureshowsthesettingofcoloredyarn,onecourseismadeby2knittingsystemsand3patternheightisknittedinoneturningofmachineThelocationofpokingteofcourseNo.3isasfollowed.JacquardJacquardJacquardThepositionofpokingteinNo.5andknittingJacquardJacquardpatternwheel提花輪PrinciplesforneedleInclinedpatternwheel(20－cedateachRaisingDropWingcam(X)側向三角JacquardHighbit——knitLowbit——Nopatternbit——3-wayneedle＝》Spiral/NonSpiralpattern＝》Pattern“shift”&“Withathreepositionwheel,aneedleenteringanemptytrickwillremainatmissheight,aneedlesupportedbyalowbitwillbealiftedtuck,andaneedlesupportedbyahighbitwillbeliftedtoclear.Needlesleftatmissheightareloweredbyawingcamtoensurethattheydonotinadvertentlyreceiveyarn.SelectionSelectionofSimilarprincipleusedtoselectsinkersforpileJacquardRectangularpatterndesign_repeatpatternNumberofcylinderneedlesSinkers/Tricks提花輪槽數(shù)whereZ—roundnumber正整r—remainder/residue1）r=2）r≠0(TisnotanexactfactorofJacquard⑴Jacquard⑴Onemachinerevolution,exactnumbersofturnsofthewheel.Thestartingtricksonthewheelwillre-alignwiththestartingneedleinthecylinder.PatternSizeBmax=THmax=M/eM－Feeders/numberofe－numberof–Thenon-spiraldesignarea,showingnofallandshiftbetweenoneadjacentpatternareaandthenextoneadjacenttoit.JacquardE.g.1：PatterndesignwithJacquardJacquardExample2：PatternDesignE18，D=28”,N=1500，1.Patternsize– –Bmax =>–Hmax=M/e=36=>＝》Onemachinerevolution,2repeatheightFeeder1－181strepeatheightFeeder19－36:1strepeatheightJacquard⑵·WhenTisNOTanexactfactorofN,atthesecondmachinerevolution,thestartingtricksinthewheelswillNOTre-alignwiththestartingneedlesinthecylinderandthecontinuousselectionofthewheelswillhave“shifted’or“movedon’comparedtothecylinderneedles.JacquardIe.g.：IfJacquardIe.g.：IfN＝170T＝50thenr＝20，thehighestcommonfactor(hcf)ofN、T、ris10Cylinder1strevolution,wheel3+2/2，1needlemeets21V3，1needlemeets4120+204,1needlemeets11I5，1needlemeets316,1needlemeets1stJacquardIfsetting10tricksasonesection段,onecirclewillbefinishedafterthedialturning5rounds.JacquardJacquardIfFeederM=1,thedistributionofthepatternshould“Shift”& SpiralpatternJacquardPatternHWidthBandheightHofafullWidth?B=thehighestcommonfactor(hcf)最大公約數(shù)N、T、Height?H=M/e×T/B=M/ewhereM—systemnumbere—colornumberT—tricksnumberB—widthofafullstitch—numberofJacquardJacquardShiftoftheSection—thenumberofpatternrepeatwidthsinonewheel段數(shù)(A)A=T/BShiftofthe –Shiftofthewidth段的橫移thedialturnsonetime,thestartnumbershouldbeshifted.remainderisthenumberofJacquardWhenthedialturnsthePthround,thetricknumberSpis:Sp=[(P-1)X+1]-P--thePthroundX--shiftofwidthK--roundnumbertoensureSp≤JacquardInJacquardInaboveturningnumberStart S1＝ S2＝2＋1＝ S3＝2×2＋1－ S4＝3×2＋1－ S5＝４×2＋1－1×JacquardPattern“Lift”Thedis verticaldirectionisrepresentedbyYIfusingthemachinewithMsystemsandekindsofcoloryarns,theYcanbecalculateas:YY'MMA(K1)e∵MeXAH∴YH(K1)XMeJacquardJacquard·(2)CalculationandRepeatWidthN5529余12 hcf=12=>RepeatHeightHTM60820 B 12–Shift”AT605BXr12BJacquardLiftH(K1) 20(01)Y e 216X1§Therelationshipofturningnumberandstartnumberoftrickisfollowed:Ｓ＝Ｓ＝[(2-1)×１＋１]－０＝ⅡＳ＝[(3-1)×１＋１]－０＝ⅢＳ＝[(4-1)×１＋１]－０＝ⅣＳ＝[(5-1)×１＋１]－０＝JacquardJacquardJacquardTableforpatternbits·Ref.textbookJacquard·Jacquard·IfN=588,T=60,toproducethe2–colorjacquardstructureaccordingtothenotationH=20，B=12,giveouttheknittingJacquard··(2)Calculationand–RepeatWidthN5889余 取hcf=12=>–RepeatHeightHHTM60820B 12–Shift“Ｘ”AT605 Xr48B BLiftYH(k1)M/e20(K1)45(K1)1 IJacquardControlthroughpatternThepatternwheelcontrolisusedforstructuredandjacquardpatternswithsmallormedium-sizedrepeatsuptoapatternwidthof120needles.Thetechniquemakesuseofonepatternwheeleachperfeeder.Itissetwithselectivesinkersandrotatesatthecylinderandthusdirectlyguidestheneedlesintotheirworkingpositions.JacquardJacquardThepatternsizeattainablewithpatternwheelcontroldependsonthenumberofpatternsinkers/tricksinthepatternthenumberoffeedersontheknittingtheknitpatternrepeatandthenumberofcolorsintheThepatternwidthdependsonthehighestcommondenominatorforthenumberofpatternsinkers/tricksinthepatternwheelandthenumberofcylinderneedlesontheknittingmachine.Normallytheneighbouringpatternfieldsinthefabricarestaggeredtowardsoneanoheroverseveralrows.Onehentalksaboutspiralpatterns.Jacquard1Multi-stepneedleselection多級·1—Selection（6or8steps）2—Selectionelements（piezoelectricity壓電陶orelectromagnet線圈電磁鐵）電器元件3—Interface接Jacquard2）PrinciplesforneedleaJacquard2）Principlesforneedlea）qSelection→Pattern→Needle→q8stepsonpatternbit,withONLY1stepleft,eachbuttcorrespondingto8selectionknives,respectivelyqPatternbitsetoutin“/”orJacquardNoselection→knifemove→knifepushesthepatternbitintoneedlegrooves針槽lowbuttoftheneedlejacknotraisedbytheraisingcam→needlescannotmoveupwards→üselection→knifemove→knifehasnoactiononthepatternbit→lowbuttoftheneedlejackraisedbytheraisingcam→needlescanmoveupwards→KNIT2-wayneedleJacquardJacquard2.Singlestepneedle·（a）needlejack→pushercam6：raisingcamforneedlecam7：resetcamforneedlecam8、9knitandtuck->retractableJacquardSet-upoftheneedleandcontrolsinker(selector)camsvIntheneedlecamNthecylinderneedles,equippedwithflexiblepins,areguidedandcontrolled.Theflexiblepinsprotecttheneedlesagainstundesirablemovementsandoptimizetheoperationalsafetyofthemachine.vInthecontrolsinkercamSthecontrolsinkersareselectedbytheelectronicpatterndevice.Foreachcylinderfeedthispatterndeviceconsistsofanelectronicallycontrolledmagnet.Thisobtainscontrolimpulsesthroughastempick-up,synchronizedwiththecontrolelectronics.Acurrentimpulsecausesthemagnettoreleaseacontrolsinkerandtheadjoinedneedlecomesintoknittingposition.Ifthereisnocurrentimpulsethecontrolsinkerkeepsstickingtothemagnetandtheadjoinedneedleremainsinitsrotaryposition.JacquardJacquardSelectionPerma