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contentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheoriginofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructure

ofcheongsamRepresentativefiguresMypersonalopinionsoncheongsamPicturesappreciating第一頁第二頁,共31頁。Thedefinition(定義)TheQiPaoorChi-Pao,alsoknownasthecheongsamormandaringown(長(zhǎng)袍);Abody-hugging(緊身的)one-piece(連衣裙)Chinesedress;TheEnglishvocabularycheongsamcomesfromtheCantonese(廣東話).ItisknowninMandarinChinese(普通話)astheqípáoinBeijingandShanghai.第二頁第三頁,共31頁。TheCheongsam(旗袍)camefromtheManchus(滿族人)whogrewoutof(產(chǎn)生于)ancientNuzhentribes(女真部落).Intheearly17thcentury,Nurhachi(努爾哈赤),agreatpoliticalandmilitarystrategist,unifiedthevariousNuzhentribesandsetuptheEightBannersSystem(八旗制度).Overtheyears,acollarless(無領(lǐng)),tube-shapedgownwasdeveloped,whichwaswornbybothmenandwomen.Thatistheembryo(胚胎)oftheQipao.ThedressiscalledQipaoinChineseortranslatedas“bannergown(旗服)",foritcamefromthepeoplewholivedundertheBannerSystem.Theorigin(起源)第三頁第四頁,共31頁。WideandlooseCoverbodyA-line第四頁第五頁,共31頁。WhycallQipaochinadressQipao,whichisfamouswithitsharmonyandunity,isknownastherepresentativeoftheChinesedressculture.Itshowstheeleganttemperament(優(yōu)雅氣質(zhì))ofChinesewomen,demonstratestheculture(文化)andvirtues(美德)ofournation.Itcreatesanimpressionofsimplicityandquiet,charm,eleganceandneatness..It’samagnificentrainbowofthehumanculture.第五頁第六頁,共31頁。Theevolution(歷史沿革)ThelateQingDynasty.

AftertheOpiumWar(鴉片戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)),theEuropean-stylesuitsenteredChinafirst.Thewideandloosebodyhadgraduallybecomeshortandnarrow.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarmentswasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina(中華民國(guó)),thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.Thebodybecameshortened.Thewaist

(腰部)wasnarrowed.Latertherewasanewchangethatstyleofcollar(領(lǐng)子)washighlightedtobefashionabletoshowfeminineappearance.第六頁第七頁,共31頁。Fromthe1950sto1960sIntheEastAsia,thefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChinamarkstheendoftheoldlife.Thecheongsam,whichhasbeencherishedbypeopleforalongtimewasnotpracticalandwassetaside(放置一旁).Butin1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagain

(再次出現(xiàn))inthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s

1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion(時(shí)尚頂峰).AffectedbythestylesoftheEurope,astepforwardwasmadeinexposingthefemalefigure(女性曲線).Thecheongsamin1930swasshortenedwiththelengthtotheknees,andthecuffs(袖口)werealsonarrowed.

GoldenEraInmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution(文革),disaster第七頁第八頁,共31頁。1920s1930s

1940s第八頁第九頁,共31頁。Thedistinction(區(qū)別)Qing:broad,flat,longtofeet,silk.Rep:shapedwaist.Qing:wearingslacks,seethebottomoftrousersfromtheopening.Rep:wearingsilkstockings,showthelegs.Qing:usebrocade(織錦)orjacquard(提花織物).Rep:printedfabric(印花織物),simplicity.distinction第九頁第十頁,共31頁。QingdynastyRepublicofChina第十頁第十一頁,共31頁。Frog盤扣Thestructure立領(lǐng)襟衩刺繡Mandarincollar立領(lǐng)Lapel/frontofagarment襟Openings衩embroidery刺繡第十一頁第十二頁,共31頁。Thestyle(樣式)Chi-paohasmanystyles,andthechangeismainlybasedonsleeves,Jin,collar,openings,andthelengthofCheongsam.Sleeves(袖子):widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(雙襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.Collar(領(lǐng)):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.Openings(開衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening第十二頁第十三頁,共31頁。longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless.第十三頁第十四頁,共31頁。如意襟琵琶襟斜襟雙襟第十四頁第十五頁,共31頁。高領(lǐng)低領(lǐng)無領(lǐng)第十五頁第十六頁,共31頁。高開衩低開衩第十六頁第十七頁,共31頁。Thefactions(派別)TheBeijingstyle,withred-tapism,appearsreservedandconcise京派風(fēng)格則帶有官派作風(fēng),顯得矜持凝練;ShanghaistylewithacharacterizationofabsorbingtheWestArtsisup-to-date,flexibleandhasastrongbusinessatmosphere.海派風(fēng)格以吸收西藝為特點(diǎn),標(biāo)新且靈活多樣,商業(yè)氣息濃厚。第十七頁第十八頁,共31頁。京派第十八頁第十九頁,共31頁。海派第十九頁第二十頁,共31頁。Representativefigures張愛玲EileenChang(1920-1995)

Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.生命是一襲華美的袍子,上面

爬滿了虱子。

衣服是一種言語,隨身帶著一種袖珍戲劇……貼身的環(huán)境——那就是衣服,我們各人住在各人的衣服里第二十頁第二十一頁,共31頁。宋美齡SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.第二十一頁第二十二頁,共31頁。鄧麗君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.有華人的地方就有鄧麗君的歌聲,她成全了旗袍的美麗,旗袍成就了她的傳奇。第二十二頁第二十三頁,共31頁。

Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年華)

,MaggieCheung(張曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease,Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot(旗袍熱)."Can’titarouseourdeeplythinkingabouttheculturalchangeofcheongsam?Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen第二十三頁第二十四頁,共31頁。第二十四頁第二十五頁,共31頁。MypersonalopinionsonqipaoThecheongsam,asadazzlingexoticflowerinChina‘snationalapparel(服裝),willnotonlyexistinthefuturebutalsocontinuetobeinfullbloomtogetherwiththewonderfulgarmentsintheworld,becausetheuniquebeauty(美麗),demeanor(

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