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ChineseTraditionalCostume2021/6/271ChineseTraditionalCostumeHanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsociety2021/6/272HanfuHanfuisknownasHanzhuang,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,''thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.''(后數(shù)來(lái)朝賀,樂漢衣服制度)2021/6/273Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦):Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳):Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(褲):Trousersorpants.Thestructure2021/6/274InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)2021/6/275Semi-formaldresschang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoat2021/6/276FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤領(lǐng)袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdress2021/6/277CostumeinTangDynasty

2021/6/278ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Contents

2021/6/279TangDynastyFromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.2021/6/2710

Features

Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen'scostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空裝,袒胸裝)exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.2021/6/2711

Features

Thisisthepicture《BeautiesWearingFlowers》showingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”2021/6/2712TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.

Features

2021/6/2713Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.

Features

2021/6/2714Thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoadCross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities

Features

2021/6/2715

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.2021/6/2716Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

2021/6/2717

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?

Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.2021/6/2718Thankyouforyourlistening!2021/6/2719SongDynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomen’sclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一種開放的類型,但宋代文化則是一種相對(duì)收斂的類型,兩者有很大的差異,宋代在政治上雖然開放民主,但由于“程朱理學(xué)”的思想禁錮,和對(duì)外政策的妥協(xié)退讓,服飾文化不再艷麗奢華,而是簡(jiǎn)潔質(zhì)樸。宋代強(qiáng)調(diào)“存天理,滅人欲”的觀念,使人的個(gè)體對(duì)立性全部仰制了,對(duì)婦女的約束也推到了極點(diǎn),所以宋代女裝拘謹(jǐn)、保守,色彩淡雅恬靜,宋代不論權(quán)貴的皇親國(guó)戚,還是一般的百姓,都愛穿著直領(lǐng),對(duì)襟的褙子,因?yàn)榧仁孢m得體,又顯得典雅大方。2021/6/2720SongDynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.

Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.

Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.2021/6/2721SongDynasty

It

has

already

began

foot-binding

in

the

Song

dynasty

when

"sancunjinlian"

has

came

into

being.

三寸金蓮2021/6/2722YuanDynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageof

ethnicgroups

inChina’shistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.

ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.2021/6/2723YuanDynasty蒙古族女子,時(shí)興戴一種很有特色的“罟罟冠”,高約70-100厘米,其頂端擴(kuò)大成平頂帽形;外面以紅絹、金錦或毛氈包裱。2021/6/2724YuanDynastyZhisunfu:質(zhì)孫服上衣下裳,上緊下短,并在腰間加襞(bì)積,肩背掛大珠Zhisunfu

wasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.(一色衣).2021/6/2725YuanDynasty2021/6/2726YuanDynasty元代蒙古族男子,戴一種用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”,有方圓兩種樣式,頂中裝飾有珠寶。2021/6/2727QingDynasty2021/6/2728QingDynasty

DuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容華貴的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranks(社會(huì)地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.2021/6/2729

Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim.2021/6/2730

2021/6/2731Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.2021/6/2732ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomen’scurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.2021/6/2733

MainCharacteristics●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或馬褂)2021/6/2734MainCharacteristics●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外輪廓呈長(zhǎng)方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(馬蹄袖蓋手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)2021/6/27352021/6/27362021/6/2737TheChinesetraditionalcostumeCheongsam2021/6/2738ContentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefigures2021/6/2739DefinitionQipao(Chipao)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam

,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.2021/6/2740TheevolutionThelateQingDynasty.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarments(服裝)wasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina,thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.2021/6/2741Fromthe1950sto1960sIn1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagaininthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s

1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion.

GoldenEraTheevolution2021/6/2742Inmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution,disasterTheevolution2021/6/2743Frog盤扣Thestructure立領(lǐng)襟衩Mandarincollar立領(lǐng)Lapel襟Openings衩embroidery刺繡2021/6/2744ThestyleSleeves:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(雙襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.Collar(領(lǐng)):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.Openings(開衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening2021/6/2745longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless2021/6/2746HighcollarCollarlessLowcollar2021/6/2747Representativefigures張愛玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.

2021/6/2748宋美齡SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.2021/6/2749鄧麗君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.2021/6/2750Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年華)

,MaggieCheung(張曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease.Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot."

Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen2021/6/27512021/6/2752玉脂白Expo(展覽會(huì))2010ShanghaiChina

2021/6/2753CheongsamforMissManners青花瓷寶藍(lán)2021/6/2754Thankyou!!!2021/6/2755現(xiàn)代民族服飾現(xiàn)在,民族服飾是指各民族本身文化中獨(dú)有特色的服飾,也可以稱為地方服飾或民俗服飾。由于我國(guó)民族眾多,我今天重點(diǎn)介紹一下苗族服飾和白族服飾。苗族服飾是我國(guó)所有民族服飾中最為華麗的服飾,既是中華文化中的一朵奇葩,也是歷史文化的瑰寶。2021/6/2756ModernEthnicClothingNationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenation'sownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostumeandBaic

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