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ChineseTraditionalCostume2021/6/271ChineseTraditionalCostumeHanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsociety2021/6/272HanfuHanfuisknownasHanzhuang,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,''thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.''(后數(shù)來朝賀,樂漢衣服制度)2021/6/273Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦):Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳):Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(褲):Trousersorpants.Thestructure2021/6/274InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)2021/6/275Semi-formaldresschang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoat2021/6/276FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdress2021/6/277CostumeinTangDynasty
2021/6/278ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?
Contents
2021/6/279TangDynastyFromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.2021/6/2710
Features
Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen'scostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空裝,袒胸裝)exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.2021/6/2711
Features
Thisisthepicture《BeautiesWearingFlowers》showingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”2021/6/2712TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.
Features
2021/6/2713Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.
Features
2021/6/2714Thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoadCross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities
Features
2021/6/2715
HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?
Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.2021/6/2716Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.
HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?
2021/6/2717
HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?
Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.2021/6/2718Thankyouforyourlistening!2021/6/2719SongDynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomen’sclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一種開放的類型,但宋代文化則是一種相對收斂的類型,兩者有很大的差異,宋代在政治上雖然開放民主,但由于“程朱理學”的思想禁錮,和對外政策的妥協(xié)退讓,服飾文化不再艷麗奢華,而是簡潔質樸。宋代強調“存天理,滅人欲”的觀念,使人的個體對立性全部仰制了,對婦女的約束也推到了極點,所以宋代女裝拘謹、保守,色彩淡雅恬靜,宋代不論權貴的皇親國戚,還是一般的百姓,都愛穿著直領,對襟的褙子,因為既舒適得體,又顯得典雅大方。2021/6/2720SongDynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.
Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.
Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.2021/6/2721SongDynasty
It
has
already
began
foot-binding
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the
Song
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"sancunjinlian"
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三寸金蓮2021/6/2722YuanDynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageof
ethnicgroups
inChina’shistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.
ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.2021/6/2723YuanDynasty蒙古族女子,時興戴一種很有特色的“罟罟冠”,高約70-100厘米,其頂端擴大成平頂帽形;外面以紅絹、金錦或毛氈包裱。2021/6/2724YuanDynastyZhisunfu:質孫服上衣下裳,上緊下短,并在腰間加襞(bì)積,肩背掛大珠Zhisunfu
wasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchgarments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.(一色衣).2021/6/2725YuanDynasty2021/6/2726YuanDynasty元代蒙古族男子,戴一種用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽”,有方圓兩種樣式,頂中裝飾有珠寶。2021/6/2727QingDynasty2021/6/2728QingDynasty
DuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容華貴的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,officialranks(社會地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.2021/6/2729
Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontoweartherobewasgivenbyhim.2021/6/2730
2021/6/2731Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.2021/6/2732ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhascertainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomen’scurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.2021/6/2733
MainCharacteristics●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoatorjacket(增加坎肩或馬褂)2021/6/2734MainCharacteristics●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外輪廓呈長方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(馬蹄袖蓋手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)2021/6/27352021/6/27362021/6/2737TheChinesetraditionalcostumeCheongsam2021/6/2738ContentsThedefinitionofcheongsamTheevolutionofcheongsamThestructureofcheongsamRepresentativefigures2021/6/2739DefinitionQipao(Chipao)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam
,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.2021/6/2740TheevolutionThelateQingDynasty.In1919,theOrdinance(法令)aboutgarments(服裝)wasannouncedbytheNationalGovernmentandcheongsamwasestablishedtobethenationalgarments.In1920sIntheearlyRepublicofChina,thecheongsambegantobepopularagain.2021/6/2741Fromthe1950sto1960sIn1950sand1960s,cheongsamsbegantoshowupagaininthepeople'slives.Fromthe1930sto1940s
1930sand1940ssawthecheongsaminitspeakfashion.
GoldenEraTheevolution2021/6/2742Inmoderntimes.Popularagainnow.From1966to1976CulturalRevolution,disasterTheevolution2021/6/2743Frog盤扣Thestructure立領襟衩Mandarincollar立領Lapel襟Openings衩embroidery刺繡2021/6/2744ThestyleSleeves:widesleeves,narrowandlongsleeves,middlesleeves,shortsleevesorsleeveless.Jin(襟):roundJin,straightJin,slantingJin(斜襟),doubleJin(雙襟),PipaJin(琵琶襟),andsoon.Collar(領):highcollar,lowcollar,orcollarless.Openings(開衩):highopenings,lowopenings,noopening2021/6/2745longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless2021/6/2746HighcollarCollarlessLowcollar2021/6/2747Representativefigures張愛玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.
2021/6/2748宋美齡SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.2021/6/2749鄧麗君WherethereareChinesethereishervoice,shereallymadethebeautyofthecheongsam,cheongsamaccomplishedherlegend.2021/6/2750Inthefilm《IntheMoodforLove》(似水年華)
,MaggieCheung(張曼玉)changemorethan23setsofqipao,afterthemovierelease.Itsetoffarushof“cheongsamhot."
Cheongsamreflectstheelegantcharmoforientalwomen2021/6/27512021/6/2752玉脂白Expo(展覽會)2010ShanghaiChina
2021/6/2753CheongsamforMissManners青花瓷寶藍2021/6/2754Thankyou!!!2021/6/2755現(xiàn)代民族服飾現(xiàn)在,民族服飾是指各民族本身文化中獨有特色的服飾,也可以稱為地方服飾或民俗服飾。由于我國民族眾多,我今天重點介紹一下苗族服飾和白族服飾。苗族服飾是我國所有民族服飾中最為華麗的服飾,既是中華文化中的一朵奇葩,也是歷史文化的瑰寶。2021/6/2756ModernEthnicClothingNationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenation'sownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostumeandBaic
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