英國(guó)文化維多利亞服裝

1、12Victoria，whose reign lasted 64 years in Britain history, is the longest monarch in British history. And shes the symbol of an era. During her reign, people were united by heart. Britain became a powerful empire. 3 1819/5/241901/1/22Drinking tea in the afternoonBritain became a powerful empire. Sci

2、ence and art had witnessed very fast development. Charlotte Bronte Jane EyreThe Mill on the Floss (by George Eliot) 4At that time many styles of architecture appeared. Greek style(希臘風(fēng)格） Gothic style （哥特式）Shesthesymbolofanera5change their living environment and interior decoration style. 6Let us take

3、 you on a tour of womens clothing in Victoria fashion in the 19th century. 7Special bonnets （軟帽） Bonnets ,replacing the great hats, changed the whole character of day dresses.In 1835, The look of demure prim gentility was emphasized by the loss of the great hats for bonnets. 8 In 1836 Gigot sleeves

4、collapsed abruptly . Costume began to develop the sentimental early Victorian look we associate with Queen Victorias early rule. The early sentimental Victorian look often used to depict ladies of the era, c1838 9By 1840 the collapsed sleeve was much narrower10 All the boned bodice（胸衣）seam lines and

5、 trims were directional to emphasize the small waists11 By 1845 the boned bodice （胸衣）was even more elongated into a V shape. This meant that an early Victorian womans arm movements were restricted.12Flounces（荷葉邊） were added in the early 1840s to make the skirts appear wider.Beautiful flounces 13Cart

6、ridge pleats (筒打褶）were used at first to draw the skirt fabric in 1841Cartridge pleats14 Later by 1850 the word crinoline began to mean the whole of the beehive shaped skirt（蜂巢狀裙子）. It was then only another step to call the later artificial or cage hooped support frame petticoats after 1856, crinolin

7、es. 15Factors Affecting the Fashion Silhouette after 1860 sewing machine（縫紉機(jī)） had been invented couture design（服裝設(shè)計(jì)） played a more important role in clothes world synthetic dyes(合成染料） made it possible to have intense colors（強(qiáng)烈色彩） Crinoline（裙撐） domed skirt silhouette towards the garment back.16Clothi

8、ng designerCharles Worth He was a great designer , and he designed an overskirt ,which caught on in England after 1868 .17The new Princess gown The Princess gown was cut in one piece and consisted of a number of joined panels fitted and gored from shoulder to hem Later Princess styles were slimmer a

9、nd much more form fitting. Sleeves in day dresses were often of a banana shape.18Another top skirt _ apron Rounder waistlines were fashionable and even began to rise very slightly 19Ball gowns with a train From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. Soon by 1873 the train was seen in day dress. 20soft

10、 polonaise bustle styles By 1875 these styles became so extreme the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment Trains were very heavily ornamented 21the Late Victoria Age This fascinating era didnt end with the death of Queen Victoria. Many historians believe that the so-called “Victor

11、ian” end is after the end of the First World War.22The Princess Line Sheath The soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments 23Dress with cuirasse bodice The cuirasse bodice was corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creati

12、ng the look of a body encased in armour. 24The New Hard Bustle of 1883 . It had minimal drapery compared to the former and a slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front. 25The sharper tailored jacket fashion gave them a different posture with a more confident air

13、 reflecting the ideals of early female emancipation. The gowns of the 1880s were almost always made in two colours of material 26The leg of mutton sleeves The leg of mutton sleeves continued to develop and sprouted high above the shoulders, By 1895 the sleeves swelled into enormous puffs similar to

14、those of 1833. As happened in 1830 to balance the huge shoulders the skirt widened and flared, whilst keeping the waist tight and handspan narrow. 27 Need freedom The leader of the women liberation movement _ Clara Zetkin 28In 1887, Smith Astor from the UK wore trousers and declared :”Pants are not

15、only comfortable ,healthy, but dignified.”29 Victorias costume had not only changed the development of costume arts and the progress of the society, but also improved the status of women. In our view, Victorian costumes are beautiful and luxuriant. Its the noble symbol. But, when women at that time wore the breathless garment and the heavy bustle, who can understand their pain? That was bound under the beautifu