AATCC96-2004(2007)機(jī)織物和針織物(除毛織物外)商業(yè)洗滌后的尺寸變化(英文)

1、AATCC Test Method 96-2004Dime nsional Chan ges in Commercial Laun deri ng ofWove n and Kn itted Fabrics Except WoolCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSCopyright The

2、 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSdetails such as material safety data sheets gent (see 1 2 3 * * * * * * * * 12.7 and 12.13).recommenda- 5.3.2 Hand iron, electric, steam or d

3、ry, weighi ng approximately 1.4 kg.pla in weave (Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.12 and 12.13).5.2 Measuring devices.5.2.1 In delible ink marking pen (see12.5) for use with suitable rule, tape,marki ng template (see 12.6).5.2.2 Tape or rule with divisio ns in millimeters or smaller in creme nt (se

4、e 12.6).5.2.3 Needle and sewing thread can be used to make bench marks (see 12.11).；espon sibility to u5<4 Digital Imaging System (see 12.14).Developed in 1960 by AATCC Committee RA42; revised 1967, 1980, 1988 (with title change), 1995, 1997, 1999, 2001; reaffirmed 1972, 1975; editorially revised

5、 1973, 1974, 1975, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 2004, 2005, 2006; tech ni cal correction 1984; editorially revised and reaffirmed 1993. Related to ISO 5077.fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, hair from the An gora or Cashmere goat, rabbit hair and the specialty hair fibers from

6、camel, alpaca, llama and vicu na.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precauti ons are for in formati on purposes only. The precauti ons are ancillary to the testing procedures and are not inten ded to be all in clu- sive. It is the user' ssafe and proper tech ni ques in han dli ng materials

7、in this test method. Man ufac- turers MUST be con sulted for specific and other manufacturer ' s tions. All OSHA standards and rules must also be con sulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices should be followed. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refe

8、rence Deterge nt may cause irritati on. Care should be take n to preve nt exposure to skin and eyes.4.3 Manufacturer ' s safety recommen- dati ons should be followed whe n operating laboratory test ing equipme nt.5. Apparatus and Materials5.1 Apparatus.5.1.1 Wash wheel of the revers ing type (se

9、e 12.1).5.1.2 Flatbed press measuring 6CX125 cm or larger. Any flatbed press capable of press ing specime n 55 cm square may be used as an alter native. The flatbed press is maintained at a temperature not less than 135 ° C (see 12.2).5.1.3 Dryer of the rotary tumble type, hav ing a cyli ndrica

10、l basket approximately 75 cm in diameter and 60 cm in len gth and rotati ng at approximately 35 rpm. The dryer is provided with a means of maintaining a drying temperature of 60士 11 ° C measured in the exhaust vent as close as possible to the drying chamber.5.1.4C on diti onin g/dry ing rack wi

11、th pullout scree n or perforated shelves (see 12.3).5.1.5 Facilities for drip and line drying.5.1.6 Hydro-extractor, centrifugal extractor of the lau ndry type with a perforated basket, 29.0 cm deepX51.0 cm diameter with an operating speed of 1700 rpm (see 12.4).5.1.7 Ballast of 92 x 92 士 3 cm hemme

12、d pieces of bleached cott on sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1) or 50/50 polyester/cott on bleached and mercerized5.3 Materials.5.3.1 Deterge nt, alkylarylsulfo nate type, or 1993 AATCC Sta ndard Refere nee Deter-6. Test Specimens6.1 Sampli ng.6.1.1 Test three specimens of each sample. Where possib

13、le, each specime n should contain differe nt groups of le ngth- wise and widthwise yarns.6.1.2 Fabrics that are badly distorted in their unlaun dered state may give deceptive dime nsional cha nge results whe n laun dered by any procedure. Therefore, it is recomme nded that the specime n not be take

14、n from such areas or, if used, the results con sidered as in dicative only.6.1.3 In cases of dispute or litigation: Pre-c on diti on test specime ns as directed in ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Con diti oning and Testi ng Textiles, prior to con diti oning. Otherwise, con diti on test specime ns

15、 for at least 4 h in an atmosphere of 21 士 1 ° C and 65 士 2% RH by laying each test specime n separately on acon diti oning rack.6.2 Size, Preparation and Marking.6.2.1 The size and preparati on of test specime ns will vary depe nding upon the type of fabric being tested.For woven and warp knit

16、 fabrics at least 60 cm wide: Preferably, cut three 60 x 60 cm test specimens. Mark each specime n with three 46 cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the len gth of the fabric, and three 46 cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the width of the fabric. Each bench mark must be at least 8 cm from all edg

17、es of the test specime ns. Pairs of bench marks in the same directi on must be approximately 15 cm apart (see Fig. 1). Alter natively, if sample size is limited, cut three 40 x 40 cm test specimens. If using this size, mark each specime n with three 25 cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the len gth

18、 of the fabric, and three 25Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license wi

19、th AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSTM 96-2004133AATCC Tech nical Man ual/2007Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSCopyright ? 20

20、06 American AssociationCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSTable I Commercial Washing, Drying and Restoration Proceduresby differe nt operators.Adubsta ntially of 1

21、993 AATCC Sta ndard Refer-in Row L. The time to fill and drain the wash wheel is in cluded in the time of the 1.0 cm with water at a temperature suds cycle and the two rinses in Tests IIc, ± 36 ° C and start the machine. Inject, IVc and Vc, in which the machine is run contin uously from th

22、e start of the test.7.2.5 Test VIc. Stop the wash wheel af-ter 10 min (Row A, Column 6 of Table II)and dra in. Refill the machi ne to a level ofthe time the wash was started in 7.2. Refill the mach ine to a level of 22.0士 1.0 cmwith water at a temperature of 41士 3 ° CWhe n this water level has

23、bee n reached, inject steam, if n ecessary, to maintain that temperature during the rinse. Drain off the water at a rate that substa ntially empties the wash wheel at the end of the sum of the times show n in Rows A and C measured from the time the wash wheel was started. Immediately refill the wash

24、 wheel to a level of 22.0士 1.0 cm with water at41 士 3 ° C. When the water level has been reached, in ject steam, if n ecessary, to maintain that temperature during the rin se. Drain off the water at a rate that empties the wash wheel atthe end of the sum of the times from the time the wash whee

25、l was started.7.2.4 Test IIc or Test IIIc. The wash wheel is stopped after the second rinse water h±s dra in ed. For the wet tumble cycle in Tfests0Vc and Vc, the wash wheel conti nues to run without further additi on of water and is stopped 60 min from the time the wash wheel is started. In ea

26、ch of the above operations, the draining time is included in the running time. Draining is to be completed by the end of the time show ncm pairs of bench marks parallel to the width of the fabric (see 12.8). Each bench mark must be at least 5 cm from all edges of the test specime ns. Pairs of bench

27、marks in the same directi on must be approximately 12 cm apart (see Fig. 1).6.2.2 For woven and warp knit fabrics un der 60 cm wide: Cut three test specimens that are each 60 cm in len gth and the full width of the fabric. Mark each test specime n with 46 cm bench marks parallel to the len gth of th

28、e fabric. The bench marks should be at least 12 cm apart and at least 5 cm from the fabric edges. For the width directi on select bench mark distances that fit within 5 cm in from the edges. Place three such bench marks on each test specime n in the width directi on. Bench marks in the width directi

29、 on should be at least 15 cm apart and at least 8 cm from the top and bottom edges of the fabric (see Fig. 2).6.2.3 Flat and circular knit fabrics: Tubular finished knit fabric samples representing goods used in the tubular state; i.e., un derwear, sweat shirts, polo shirts, etc., should be tested i

30、n the tubular state. Cut three specime ns, each 60 cm inlength. Tubular finished knit fabrics represen ti ng goods used in the slit ope n width state; i.e., dresses, slacks, suits, etc., are to be slit and handled flat. After slitting fabric, cut three test specime ns accord ing to6.2.2 or 6.2.3. Ma

31、rk specime ns as in 6.2.2 or 6.2.3. For fabrics which will run or ladder, it is suggested that the edges be sew n with stitch type 505 (see 12.11).6.3 Original Measurement.6.3.1 Measure by using one of the following opti ons:Opti on 1: Measure and record the distance betwee n each pair of bench mark

32、s with suitable tape or rule to the n earest millimeter or smaller in creme nts. This is Measureme nt A.Opti on 2: If using a tape or template ruled directly in perce nt dime nsional cha nge, orig inal measureme nts are not required. In case of n arrow fabrics less tha n 38 cm wide, measure and reco

33、rd width.7. Procedure7.1 Table I summarizes the alter native laundering, drying and restoration procedures. Details of lau nderi ng procedures are summarized in Table II.7.2 Washi ng.7.2.1 Place the specime ns in the wash wheel with sufficie nt ballast or other fabrics similar to test specimens to m

34、ake a 1.80 士 0.07 kg load for Tests Ic, IIc, IIIc, IVc and Vc. For Test VIc, a load con sist- ing of test specime ns and ballast to make a load of 9.0 士 0.2 kg shall be used. 66 士 1 gence Deterge nt (see 12.7). I n soft water areas this may be reduced to avoid excessive suds ing. Start wash wheel an

35、d note the time. Immediately add water at 413° C to the wheel to a level of 18.0 cm. When this water level has bee n reached, in ject steam into the wheel un til the temperature reaches that show n in Row B, Table II. This level will be increased by conden sed steam.7.2.2 Test Ic. Stop the wash

36、 wheel after 15 min (Row A, Colum n 1 of Table II) and drain. Refill the machine to a level of 22.0 士 at 41steam, if n ecessary, to maintain that temperature during the rinse. Stop the machine at the end of the time show n in Row C, Colu mn 1 of Table II. Repeat this procedure for the sec ond rinse

37、using the times and temperatures show n in Rows E and F, Colu mn 1 of Table II.7.2.3 Tests IIc, IIIc, IVc and Vc. The mach ine runs con tin uously for the time show n in Row L of Table II. Beg in todra in off the deterge nt soluti on at the end of the suds cycle at a rate that substa n- tially empti

38、es the wash wheel of soluti on at the end of the time show n in Row A of Table II. Measure the time elapsed from22.0 士 1.0 cm with water at a temperature at 60 士 3 ° C and start the machine. Inject steam, if n ecessary, to maintain that temperature during the rinse. Stop the machine at the end

39、of the time show n in Row C, Colu mn 6 of Table II. This procedure is repeated for the sec ond, third and fourth rinses using the times and temperatures shown in Rows E-J, Column 6 of Table II.7.3 Drying.124(3 err, Soecirnon6Q cm Specime46 i i15 cmFig. 2 Bench mark placement (woven and warp knit fab

40、rics under 60 cm wide).Fig. 1 Bench mark placement (woven and warp knit fabrics at least 60 cm wide).134 TM 96-2004AATCC Tech nical Man ual/2007Copyright ? 2006 American Association7.3.1The specime ns may be dried byCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsProvided by IHS

41、under license with AATCCNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHSTable I Commercial Washing, Drying and Restoration Proceduresby differe nt operators.TestsWashing TemperaturesTotal TimeDryingRestorationIc41 ± 3 °C30 minA. Tumble0. NoneIIc51 士 3 ° C45 minB. Line1

42、. Hand IronIIIc63 士 3 ° C45 minC. Drip2. Flatbed PressIVc74 士 3 ° C60 minD. ScreenVc99 士 3 ° C60 minE. Flatbed PressVIc60 +3 ° C32 minTable II Washing Test ConditionsIcIIcIIIcIVcVcVIcWASH(A) Suds Time (min)153030404010(B) Cycle Temp40 士 3 °C 52 士 3 °C 63 士 3 °C 74

43、士 3 °C 98 士 3 °C 60 士 3 ° CFIRST RINSE(C) Time (min)5555510(D) Temp41 士 3 °C41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 60 士 3 ° CSECOND RINSE(E) Time (min)10101010103(F) Temp41 士 3 °C41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 41 士 3 °C 49 士 3

44、76; CTHIRD RINSE(G) Time (min)nonenonenonenonenone3(h) Temp38 士 3 ° CFOURTH RINSE(I) Time (min)nonenonenonenonenone3(J) Temp38 士 3 ° CWET TUMBLE(K) Time (min)nonenonenone553Total Running Time(L) Time (min)3CP45b45b60b60b30TESTa Machine is stopped between cycles.b Machine operates continuou

45、sly. Because the machine runs continuously from the start of the test, the time to fill and drain the mach ine is in cluded in the time of the suds cycle and the two rin ses in Test lie, lllc, IVc and Vc.F) an(any one of the five procedures show n in Table I (see 12.9), except for Test Vic, use proc

46、edure A only (Tumble Dry). The choice of drying procedure should be governed by the inten ded en d-use of the fabric. For drying procedures A, B, D and E, remove the load from the wash wheel and centrifuge the load for a minimum of 3 min.7.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the extracted load in a tumble dry

47、er at 60 11° C for 30 min or until dry.7.3.3 (B) Line Dry. Hang each extracted specime n by two corn ers with the fabric len gth in the vertical directi on. Allow the test specime ns to hang in still air at room temperature un til dry.7.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Remove the nonextracted specime ns from

48、the wash wheel and hang by two corners, with the fabric len gth in the vertical directi on. Allow the test specime n to hang in still air at room temperature un til dry. This procedure is preferable for durable press fabrics.7.3.5 (D) Screen Dry. Spread each extracted specime n on a horiz on tal scr

49、ee n or perforated surface, remov ing wr in kles but not distort ing or stretchi ng, and allow to dry in still air at room temperature.7.3.6 (E) Flatbed Press Dry. Smooth the extracted specime ns to remove wr inkles, without distorting or stretching, and press dry on the flatbed press accord ing to

50、the following cycle:(a) Five s steam with head up.(b) Five s dry hot press with head down with steam at a temperature of 148(c) Five s vacuum, steam off, head down.(d) Five s vacuum, steam off, head up.7.4 Conditioning and Restoration.7.4.1 After the completed washing anddrying in tervals, prec on d

51、iti on (see 6.1.3) and con diti on specime ns for at least 4 h by lay ing each specime n separately on a con diti oning rack in an atmosphere of 21 士 1 ° C and 65+ 2% RH.7.4.2 Hand iron .if the specime ns are wrin kled and the appeara nee is such that the con sumer would expect to iron the garm

52、e nt made from the sample material, test specime ns may be ironed prior to re- measureme nt of the dista nee betwee n bench marks.7.4.2.1 Due to the extremely high variability of hand ironing procedures performed by in dividual operators (no sta n- dard test method exists for hand ironing procedures

53、), the reproducibility of dimensional change results after hand ironing has bee n found to be extremely poor. Con seque ntly, cauti on is advised whe n compari ng dime nsional cha nge results after laundering and hand ironing, reported7.4.2.2 Hand ironing is inten ded primarily for the evaluation of

54、 fabrics that require ironing after laundering. Use safe ironing temperatures appropriate to the fibers in the fabric being ironed. See Table I, Safe Ironing Temperature Guide, i n AACC Method 133, Colorfast ness to Heat: Hot Pressi ng. Exert only that pressure during pressing which is n ecessary to

55、 remove wrin kles.7.4.3Pressing, Test VIc. Cool the dry specime n a mini mum of 5 min and the n moiste n sufficie ntly with water to allow good press ing. Wet the specime n using a spray no zzle set for fine mist. Let the specimen rema in in this con diti on for 5 mi n, smooth it to remove wrin kles

56、 without distortion and then press it either with a flatbed press or hand iron. Set the head of the press or the hand iron at a temperature of 120150 ° C. When a hand iron is used, do not slide the iron back and forth on the specimen, but simply press it dow n in a manner simulati ng the acti o

57、n of a flat-bed press.7.4.4 After hand ironing or press ing, pre-c on diti on (see 6.1.3) and the n con diti on specime ns for at least 4 h by lay ing each specime n separately on the scree n or perforated shelf of a con diti oning rack in an atmosphere at 21 士 1 ° C (70 士 2 65 士 2% RH.8. Measu

58、rement and Evaluation8.1 After con diti onin g, lay each test specimen without tension on a smooth, horizontal surface and determ ine dime nsionalcha nge by one of the follow ing opti ons:Opti on 1: Measure and record the distance betwee n each pair of bench marks to the nearest millimeter, 0.1 in. or smaller in creme nt. This is Measureme nt“ B. ”O(jiān)pti on 2: If using a scale marked in per-