服裝設計外文翻譯文獻

1、文獻信息：文獻標題:Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption （可持續(xù)消費的 具有前瞻性的服裝設計） 國外作者:Kirsi Niinimaki文獻出處:Nordic Textile Journal,2012, 1:60-69.字數(shù)統(tǒng)計:英文3104單詞，17881字符；中文5737漢字外文文獻：Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable ConsumptionAbstractThis article presents a study that investigates product sati

2、sfaction in the context of clothing. The paper furthermore presents suggestions on how this knowledge can be used to create proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. One of the main challenges in today s consumer society is how to design products that encourage consumers to engage in mor

3、e environmentally responsible behaviour, sustainable consumption. This paper opens the discussion on how to change current unsustainable consumption behaviour related to clothing through a visionary, far-sighted design approach. Designers can create future- oriented sustainable designs that can tran

4、sform consumption patterns towards more s/he can simply change some parts or elements in the garment to have the experienceof newness.Garment exchange or renting services offer possibilities for consumers to make changes to their clothing in more sustainable ways. New and interesting examples of clo

5、thing membership clubs exist. By paying a monthly membership fee, a consumer can select a certain number of garments to use, giving himor her the opportunity to change the appearance in a more sustainable way. This type of business strategy has emerged e.g. in the field of childrens clothing. Consum

6、ers can rent childrens outfits and when the child outgrows a size, the parent can obtain larger-size garments from the clothing club.ConclusionsThis study investigated product satisfaction in the context of clothing and this knowledge was used to understand and define proactive fashion design for su

7、stainable consumption. It opened views into the process of consumer satisfaction. A main issue that arises when aiming to extend the life of garments is to increase their durability and intrinsic quality. Moreover, fulfilling consumers9 other expectations regarding the garment s aesthetic and functi

8、onal attributes is important to ensure product satisfaction. Finally the issue of value is most important with regard to deep product satisfaction: values associated with the product, the manufacturing process and behind the companies have to meet the consumers5 own value base so that the consumer f

9、eels completely satisfied with the product.By identifying the reasons for the short and long-term use of clothing, it is possible to find new ways to create sustainable designs that can result in a redirective practice directed towards sustainable consumption. Proactive fashion design for sustainabl

10、e consumption takes these reasons into account, thus enabling clothing longevity. Satisfying consumers expectations regarding quality, functionality, aesthetics and value is a key to extending the use time of a product. Moreover, the emotional side of consumption must be understood to provide more s

11、ustainable ways to ensure customer satisfaction.The PSS approach provides an opportunity to extend the enjoyable use of a product and thus avoid psychological obsolescence and a garment s premature disposal. Stimulating a sense of meaningful uniqueness and achievement through design services or “ se

12、lf-made ” approaches is a promising route to enhancing consumer satisfaction. If a consumer is satisfied, then strengthening the emotional bond between the product and consumer is possible. In turn, this meaningful attachment is the best way to postpone a products disposal. When the product or its u

13、se is somehow special to the consumer, s/he will take good care of it to extend its enjoyable use time.The most promising sustainable design strategy is the combination of product design with service elements: PSS strategies are therefore a future path to proactive and sustainable design.中文譯文：可持續(xù)消費的

14、具有前瞻性的服裝設計摘要本文從服裝的角度對產(chǎn)品滿意度進行了研究。針對如何利用這些知識 創(chuàng)造面向可持續(xù)消費的具有前瞻性的服裝設計，本文還提出了建議。當今消費 社會面臨的主要挑戰(zhàn)之一是如何設計產(chǎn)品，鼓勵消費者從事更環(huán)保的行為，可 持續(xù)消費。本文采用一種有智慧、有遠見的設計方法，就如何改變當前與服裝 相關的不可持續(xù)的消費行為展開了討論。設計師可以創(chuàng)造面向未來的可持續(xù)設 計，將消費模式轉變?yōu)楦沙掷m(xù)的消費模式。因此，可持續(xù)設計是具有針對性 的實踐活動，主旨是可持續(xù)消費，其中，服裝設計可以成為實現(xiàn)這一主旨的具 有前瞻性的方法。關鍵詞：前瞻性設計，可持續(xù)設計，可持續(xù)消費，情感滿意度，PSSo引言產(chǎn)品需要符

15、合消費者需求和使用模式；因此，設計可以說是“實踐導 向”，創(chuàng)造某些日常實踐和消費行為（肖夫等人，2007, 134-136）。目前的工 業(yè)設計和批量生產(chǎn)體系導致了消費主義和一次性產(chǎn)品的生產(chǎn)（沃克，2007, 51）?？焖僮兓内厔輰е铝讼M者不可持續(xù)的消費行為。為了在設計、制造 和消費之間創(chuàng)造一個新的、可持續(xù)的平衡，誕生了可以推動更可持續(xù)消費行為 的另一種創(chuàng)造產(chǎn)品的方法。因此，設計師應該評估每個設計決策將如何影響消 費者的消費模式。從這個角度來說，可持續(xù)設計是一種重新的、積極的實踐活 動，其主旨是實現(xiàn)可持續(xù)消費（弗賴伊，2009, 53）。更高的產(chǎn)量和同時增長的消費量導致了物質消費量的增加（特

16、羅恩-霍爾斯 特等人，2007）。不斷變化的時尚趨勢、經(jīng)濟實惠的產(chǎn)品價格以及質量低下的 消費產(chǎn)品，使得消費者不得不從事不可持續(xù)的消費行為，如沖動購買，過度消 費，使用時間短，過早處置產(chǎn)品，等等。隨著使用壽命短的產(chǎn)品的購買量的增 加，其廢品量也在顯著上漲。目前，約有70%的棄置衣物和紡織品最終進入垃 圾填埋場，在許多西方國家，服裝和紡織品廢料被認為是增長最快的廢料流 （弗萊徹，2008, 98） o消費者丟棄服裝，不僅因為這些服裝已經(jīng)穿舊了，還 因為他們總是尋求新奇的東西。然而，產(chǎn)品的耐久性和長期使用是可持續(xù)消費 的先決條件：即延長產(chǎn)品的壽命是實現(xiàn)可持續(xù)消費的必要條件（庫珀， 2005）。不過，

17、重要的是，消費者將耐久性與高品質聯(lián)系起來，而不考慮環(huán)境 影響。情感是人類生活的中心，它們影響著我們的大部分行為、動機和思維過程 （德斯梅特，2009, 379） o在消費中情感也發(fā)揮著重要作用。對當代消費者來 說，欲望、需求、價值觀、態(tài)度和體驗之間的相互作用是具有情感意義的。服 裝和時尚用品屬于自我表達產(chǎn)品的范疇，而此類產(chǎn)品，與消費相關的情感對消 費者來說是重要的。正如瑞金斯（2009）認為的那樣，這些消費情感是當代社 會的重要因素，尤其是在購買活動之后。購買情況對消費者來說是一種強烈的 正面體驗，但它具有短暫性，與更深層次的滿足感或個人-產(chǎn)品依附的體驗無關 （同上）。通過新的購買活動，消費者

18、至少暫時可以再次體驗到興奮、享受、 愉悅和樂趣。從環(huán)境的角度來看，當人與產(chǎn)品之間需要持續(xù)的積極情感，或者尋求用其 他積極情感狀態(tài)來取代物質消費的解決辦法時，研究消費方式和消費意義是十 分重要的。設計過程應著眼于可持續(xù)的消費者對產(chǎn)品的滿意度或與個人-產(chǎn)品依 附的過程。此外，還應該開發(fā)一種新的產(chǎn)品服務系統(tǒng)（PSS）,以延長產(chǎn)品的使 用時間。PSS策略還可以為消費者提供新的情感體驗，從而推遲產(chǎn)品的處置； 因此，PSS思維可以避免購買新的衣服，這是一個減少物質消費的機會。對服裝的可持續(xù)滿意度如果將當前不可持續(xù)的消費模式轉變?yōu)榭沙掷m(xù)的消費模式，就必須調查哪 種設計方式能夠產(chǎn)生可持續(xù)滿意度。為了更深入地了

19、解設計怎樣產(chǎn)生滿意度， 以及如何延長服裝的使用樂趣，首先要解釋滿意的過程。根據(jù)斯旺和庫姆斯（1976）的觀點，服裝的性能可以分為工具性能（物理 性質）和表現(xiàn)性能。表現(xiàn)性能與消費者對服裝的心理反應有關，如美的體驗。 工具性要求（例如質量預期）必須首先得到滿足。然而，只完成工具性要求并 不能達到滿意度。因此，如果要完全達到滿意度，服裝也必須滿足消費者的情 感需求（斯旺和庫姆斯，1976） o良好的內(nèi)在質量是確保消費者滿意度和服裝使用時間的最佳選擇。高質量 意味著材料的耐用和制作質量的高超。一件令人愉悅的、漂亮的衣服在長時間 使用的過程中，不僅需要保持較高的內(nèi)在質量，而且還要設計的款式更經(jīng)典、 使用

20、的材料更耐用。一些紡織材料經(jīng)過短期使用之后會顯得很陳舊。這些材料 可能會出現(xiàn)起球現(xiàn)象，或者在幾次洗滌后看起來很舊。需要頻繁洗滌的服裝可 能看起來老得很快，因此，識別以更美觀的方式變舊的材料很重要。研究顯示 （Niinimaki, 2010）,就消費者的體驗而言，羊毛和真皮的老化過程比較美 觀。消費者報告說，使用高質量的羊毛，老化過程并不明顯，而在皮革中，其 老化過程隨時間的變化顯得相當明顯（同上）。sustainable ones. Design for sustainability can thus be a redirective practice that aims for sustai

21、nable consumption, and the ways in which fashion design can be a proactive process with this aim will be described.Keywords:proactive design, sustainable design, sustainable consumption, emotional satisfaction, PSS.IntroductionProducts configure consumer needs and use patterns; hence, design can be

22、said to be “ practice-oriented ” , creating certain everyday practices and consumption behaviour (Shove et al. 2007, 134 一 136). Current industrial design and massmanufacturing systems stimulate consumerism and the production of disposable products (Walker 2007, 51). Fast changing trends lead to con

23、sumers5 unsustainable consumption behaviour. To create a new, sustainable balance between design, manufacturing and consumption, alternative ways to create products are required to drive more sustainable consumption behaviour. Therefore, designers should evaluate how each design decision affects a c

24、onsumer1 s consumption patterns.Understood in this way, sustainable design can be a redirective or a proactive practice that aims for sustainable practices in consumption (Fry 2009, 53).Higher production volumes and simultaneous growing consumption have caused an increase in material consumption (Th

25、rone-Hoist et al. 2007). Ever-changing fashion trends, affordable product prices and low-quality products cause consumers to engage in unsustainable consumption behaviour, such as impulse purchases, overconsumption, short use time and premature disposal of products. The increase in the purchase of s

26、hort-lifespan products results in a notable increase in waste. Currently, approximately 70 percent of disposed clothing and textiles end up in landfills, and in many Western countries clothing and textile waste is estimated to be the fastest growing waste stream (Fletcher 2008, 98). Consumers discar

27、d gaments not only because they are worn out but also because they actively seek novelty. Nevertheless, product durability and longterm use are prerequisites for sustainable consumption: i.e. extending the life span of products is essential when the goal is sustainable consumption (Cooper 2005). Imp

28、ortantly, however, consumers associate durability with high quality and not with environmental impact.Emotions lie at the centre of human life, and they influence most of our behaviours, motivations and thought processes (Desmet 2009, 379). Emotions also play a strong role in consumption. The interp

29、lay between wants, needs, values, attitudes and experiences is emotionally meaningful fbr a contemporary consumer. Clothing and fashion items belong to the category of self-expressive products, and with such products, consumption-related emotions are important to the consumer. As Richins (2009) argu

30、ed, these consumption emotions are important elements in contemporary society and especially after the purchase event. The purchase situation becomes a strong positive experience fbr a consumer, but it is very short term in nature and has no connection to the experience of deeper satisfaction or per

31、son-product attachment (ibid). Through a new purchase event, the consumer can again experience excitement, enjoyment Joy and pleasure, at least momentarily.From an environmental point of view, studying consumption patterns and the meanings of consumption is important when sustained positive emotions

32、 in person- product relationships are desired or solutions are sought to replace materialistic consumption with other positive emotional states. The design process should focus on sustainable consumer satisfaction with a product or with the person 一 product attachment process. Moreover, a new kind o

33、f product service system (PSS) should be developed that aims to prolong the enjoyable use time of the product. A PSS strategy can also offer the consumer new emotional experiences, which can postpone the disposal of the product; PSS thinking can thereby aim to avoid a new garment purchase, which is

34、an opportunity to decrease materialistic consumption.Sustainable Satisfaction with ClothingIf current unsustainable consumption patterns are to be transformed into more sustainable ones, the ways in which design can offer sustainable satisfaction must be investigated. To gain a deeper understanding

35、of the opportunities to deliver satisfaction by design and how the enjoyable use of gamients can be extended, the satisfaction process must first be explained.According to Swan and Combs (1976), the performance of clothing can be separated into instrumental performance (physical properties) and expr

36、essive performance. Expressive performance is linked to a consumer s psychological response to the garment, such as the experience of beauty. Instrumental requirements (e.g. quality expectations) must be satisfied first. Nevertheless, only fulfilling instrumental requirements will not result in sati

37、sfaction. Therefore clothing must also meet consumers9emotional needs if it is to deliver satisfaction (Swan and Combs 1976).Hence good intrinsic quality is optimal fbr ensuring consumer satisfaction and to guarantee the longevity of clothing. High quality means durable materials and high manufactur

38、ing quality. The ageing process of a pleasant, aesthetic garment requires not only maintaining high intrinsic quality but also the design of a more classical style and use of durable materials. Some textile materials look old after a short use time. The material might experience pilling or may look

39、old after a few washes. Garments needing frequent washing may look old rather quickly; therefore, recognising materials that age in a more aesthetically pleasing manner is important. Studies have shown (Niinimaki 2010) that consumers experience e.g. wool and real leather to age in an aesthetically p

40、leasant way. Consumers report that with high quality wool the ageing process does not show as obviously and in leather the ageing process is experienced as an attractive temporal dimension (ibid.).Consumers respect aesthetic attributes in the long-term use of clothing, and aesthetic attributes corre

41、spond to expressive performance in clothing satisfaction. Accordingly, expressive performance affects the psychological response to clothing. The aesthetic attributes that correlate to the longevity of clothing are good fit, personal cut, nice colours and comfortable materials,as well as a classic l

42、ook (see Table 1). Garment tactility is important to the wearer and a pleasant tactile experience during the use situation is one attribute fbr enjoyable long-term use of clothing.Table I: Attributes that enable longevity in clothingTheattributesthatenablelongevityinclothingarethefbllowing:Quality:D

43、urablematerialsDurability inuseDurabilityinlaunderingHigh manufacturingqualityFunctionality:Easy maintenanceSuitability 泌 tke use situation (physiological aid psychological suitability)Satisfying use experienceAestheticattributesBeauty, style, colour, fitExpressive beauty above averageTactile experi

44、enceComfortable materialsValues:PiroductNot only quality, functionality and aesthetics are important attributes; the values behind the product are also important to consumer satisfaction. Clothing choices must connect strongly with the wearer 5 s sei仁image, identity and values. Wang and Wallendorf (

45、2006) have argued that consumers with high materialistic values seek novelty and evaluate their possessions more often than consumers with lower materialistic values. They also highlight that materialistic consumers have less appreciation fbr deeper person-product relationships that develop during l

46、onger use situations. Consumers materialistic values may also connect with social status-related elements in garments and possessions. Consumers with lower materialistic values may have greater appreciation fbr the personal meanings attributable to the product that emerge during long-term use (Wang

47、& Wallendorf 2006). Consumers with high environmental and ethical interests place high importance on being able to find environmental value behind a product. These consumers respect credence quality attributes 一 local and ethical production, eco-materials and long garment life spans 一 and they want

48、to see these attributes and environmental values in the products they purchase. The value aspect is most important and consumers value expectations should be fulfilled to create deep product satisfaction (Niinimaki 2011).Fashion Design for Sustainable SatisfactionHow can a designer offer sustainable

49、 satisfaction to the consumer and how can s/he propose a prolonged use time of the product to the consumer? Firstly identifying the attributes associated with satisfaction and including them in the design is the most important strategy. Secondly identifying the determinants that lead to dissatisfact

50、ion helps the designer to avoid these elements in design and concentrate on design fbr sustainable satisfaction. The previous section described the satisfaction elements in clothing:-good intrinsic quality;-good functionality;-aesthetics;-values in the product, in manufacturing or the companys value

51、s.The easiest way to offer product satisfaction is to increase the product s intrinsic quality and inform the consumer accordingly. However the clothing satisfaction process is complex and not easy fbr a designer to control. Table 2 presents the temporal dimensions in clothing satisfaction, combinin

52、g those elements and attributes that enable satisfaction to emerge or even create person-product attachments in the field of clothing. These are the elements that a designer should try to embed in design if s/ he is aiming for proactive fashion, deep product satisfaction and extended use time of the

53、 products.Table 2: Elements of proactive sustainable fashion designThe following section presents several design approaches to deeper person-product satisfaction in the field of clothing. With these design strategies the designer can aim to achieve proactive and sustainable design.PASTPRESENTFUTUREM

54、eaningful memories Meaningful associations, which create person-product attachmentsGood functionalityAesthetical dimensionsEnjoyable experiences during use High intrinsic qualityProduct utilityConnection to self, identityProduct meets consumers personal valuesWearers own effort and achievementContin

55、uing satisfaction with the productProduct or service fulfils consumers changing needs New elements in design New experiences with the productFashion Design with Meaningful UniquenessProducts carry symbolic meaning, which consumers use to construct their own personality and identity. Consumers use pr

56、oducts to express themselves and want association with the characteristics, uniqueness or values symbolised by a product (Norman 2005). If products are easily personalised, the opportunity exists to connect the product more deeply with consumers9 identity construction and to create deeper product sa

57、tisfaction and an emotional attachment through the person 一 product relationship (Chapman 2009). This opportunity enables the product to be more meaningful to the wearer, making possible an extension of the products lifetime.Design services are one opportunity to address consumer satisfaction by dee

58、ply connecting the design outcome with a consumer s personal needs. By using digital technologies that enable individual design or measurements, meaningful uniqueness can be designed. Furthermore, unique design and 46 made-to-measure, services offer improved product satisfaction by meeting a consume

59、r s individual needs and preferences better thanmass-manufactured garments. The company NOMO Jeans offers computer-assisted made-to-measure jeans by using a 3D scanner (Nomo Jeans). Jeans are made individually according to each customer s measurements. The customer can also choose the cut, colour, e

60、ffects and details of his/her jeans.An enterprise can also base its function only on consumer orders. The designer can create their own collections, produce a couple of sample collections and enable consumers to specify all orders and measurements on an individual basis. Garments can then be created