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1、The boiling river of the AmazonAs a boy in Lima, my grandfather told me a legend of the Spanish conquest of Peru. Atahualpa, emperor of the Inca, had been captured and killed. Pizarro and his conquistadors had grown rich, and tales of their conquest and glory had reached Spain and were bringing

2、 new waves of Spaniards, hungry for gold and glory. They would go into towns and ask the Inca, "Where's another civilization we can conquer? Where's more gold?"小時候,我住在利馬;爺爺給我講了一個關(guān)于- 西班牙征服秘魯?shù)膫髌婀适?。印加帝國的末代皇帝阿塔瓦爾帕,被抓住并處死。皮薩羅和征服者們變得富有起來,他們攻克秘魯?shù)膫髡f和贊頌傳到了西班牙,吸引了一批西班牙人來此淘金。他們?nèi)サ芥?zhèn)子里,問印加人

3、:“還有哪個文明沒被攻克?還有哪里有黃金?”And the Inca, out of vengeance, told them, "Go to the Amazon. You'll find all the gold you want there. In fact, there is a city called Paititi - El Dorado in Spanish - made entirely of gold."而出于報(bào)復(fù),印加人就告訴他們:“去亞馬遜, 那里有挖不完的黃金”。事實(shí)上,那里有一個叫做帕依提提 西班牙語叫El Dorado的城市是由

4、黃金建成的”。The Spanish set off into the jungle, but the few that return come back with stories, stories of powerful shamans, of warriors with poisoned arrows, of trees so tall that they blotted out the sun, spiders that ate birds, snakes that swallowed men whole and a river that boiled.于是這些西班牙人動身前往

5、那片叢林,結(jié)果只有少數(shù)人帶著故事回來了,他們帶回了關(guān)于強(qiáng)大的薩滿巫師的故事,關(guān)于拿著毒箭的武士的故事,關(guān)于那里的樹太高以至遮住了陽光的故事,關(guān)于吃鳥的蜘蛛、能夠吞下一整個人的大蛇,以及一條沸騰的河流的故事。All this became a childhood memory. And years passed. I'm working on my PhD at SMU, trying to understand Peru's geothermal energy potential, when I remember this legend, and I began asking

6、that question. Could the boiling river exist?所有這些都成為了我的童年記憶。多年過去了,我到了南方為理公會大學(xué)(SMU)攻讀博士學(xué)位,當(dāng)我試著了解秘魯?shù)牡責(zé)崮茉礉摿r,我想到了這個傳說,于是想到了一個問題。傳說中的那條沸騰的河流真的存在嗎?I asked colleagues from universities, the government, oil, gas and mining companies, and the answer was a unanimous no. And this makes sense. You see, boiling

7、 rivers do exist in the world, but they're generally associated with volcanoes. You need a powerful heat source to produce such a large geothermal manifestation. And as you can see from the red dots here, which are volcanoes, we don't have volcanoes in the Amazon, nor in most of Peru. So it

8、follows: We should not expect to see a boiling river.我咨詢了一些同僚,他們來自各大高校, 政府部門,石油、天然氣和礦業(yè)公司,所有人的答案都是“不”。這個答案是有道理的。因?yàn)榉序v的河流的確存在,但通常是在火山旁。只有一個強(qiáng)大的熱源,才制造出如此大的地?zé)岈F(xiàn)象。你看到的這些紅點(diǎn),它們代表火山,而在亞馬遜是沒有火山的,秘魯?shù)拇蟛糠值貐^(qū)也沒有火山。所以得出的結(jié)論為:這片區(qū)域看不到沸騰的河流。Ø Geothermal energy is produced by heat from inside the earth. Ø A

9、s a boy in Lima, my grandfather told me a legend of the Spanish conquest of Peru.Telling this same story at a family dinner, my aunt tells me, "But no, Andrés, I've been there. I've swum in that river."在一次家庭聚餐上我又講了這個故事,然后我的阿姨告訴我,“不,安德烈,我去過那,我在那條河里游過泳”。Then my un

10、cle jumps in. "No, Andrés, she's not kidding. You see, you can only swim in it after a very heavy rain, and it's protected by a powerful shaman. Your aunt, she's friends with his wife."然后我叔叔也加入了討論,”真的,安德烈,她沒有開玩笑,只有在大雨過后,才能在里面游泳,它被一位強(qiáng)大的薩滿巫師保護(hù)著,而你的阿姨,跟他的妻子是朋友”。You know, desp

11、ite all my scientific skepticism, I found myself hiking into the jungle, guided by my aunt, over 700 kilometers away from the nearest volcanic center, and well, honestly, mentally preparing myself to behold the legendary "warm stream of the Amazon."盡管我作為科學(xué)家,對此表示懷疑, 還是在我的阿姨帶領(lǐng)下,踏上了

12、那片叢林, 那里距最近的火山口有700公里, 坦白說,我已經(jīng)做好了見證那條傳奇的 “亞馬遜暖流” 的心理準(zhǔn)備了。But then . I heard something, a low surge that got louder and louder as we came closer. It sounded like ocean waves constantly crashing, and as we got closer, I saw smoke, vapor, coming up through the trees. A

13、nd then, I saw this.但是,緊接著,我聽到一些聲響,隨著我們逐步走進(jìn),一股低涌-變得越來越響徹。就像海浪不停的沖擊一樣,而當(dāng)我們走近時, 我看到煙霧和蒸汽從樹林中冒出。不久,我看到了這個。I immediately grabbed for my thermometer, and the average temperatures in the river were 86 degrees C. This is not quite the 100-degree C boiling but definitely close enough. The river flowed

14、hot and fast. I followed it upriver and was led by, actually, the shaman's apprentice to the most sacred site on the river. And this is what's bizarre - It starts off as a cold stream. And here, at this site, is the home of the Yacumama, mother of the waters, a giant serpent s

15、pirit who births hot and cold water. And here we find a hot spring, mixing with cold stream water underneath her protective motherly jaws and thus bringing their legends to life.我立馬拿起了溫度計(jì),測量到這條河流的平均溫度為 86。雖然這并沒有達(dá)到100的沸點(diǎn),但也很接近了。這條高溫河水流湍急。在這位薩滿大師徒弟的帶領(lǐng)下,我沿河而上,去往這條河最神圣的地點(diǎn)。奇妙的事情發(fā)生了,這條河的起點(diǎn)是

16、冷流。而這個地方,是亞庫馬馬的故鄉(xiāng),亞庫馬馬是河之母,是創(chuàng)造冷熱水的 巨大的蛇靈。而在這里,我們找到了一處熱泉,同受她保護(hù)的河口下的冷流混合在一起, 將這些傳說變?yōu)楝F(xiàn)實(shí)。The next morning, I woke up and -第二天早上,當(dāng)我醒來的時候I asked for tea. I was handed a mug, a tea bag and, well, pointed towards the river. To my surprise, the water was clean and had a pleasant tast

17、e, which is a little weird for geothermal systems.我說想喝杯茶。 于是有人遞給我一個馬克杯,一個茶包, 然后,指著那條河。 讓我驚訝的是, 河水是如此的清澈,喝起來也很可口, 這對于地?zé)嵯到y(tǒng)來說是有點(diǎn)異常的。What was amazing is that the locals had always known about this place, and that I was by no means the first outsider to see it. It was just part o

18、f their everyday life. They drink its water. They take in its vapor. They cook with it, clean with it, even make their medicines with it.更神奇的一點(diǎn)是,本地人似乎一直都知道有這么個地方,而我也絕不是第一個發(fā)現(xiàn)此地的外來人。這些都是他們的家常便飯。 他們飲用河里的水;享用這些蒸汽;用河水烹飪;清潔, 甚至用這些河水來制藥。I met the shaman, and he seemed like an extension of th

19、e river and his jungle. He asked for my intentions and listened carefully. Then, to my tremendous relief - I was freaking out, to be honest with you - a smile began to snake across his face, and he just laughed.我見到了薩滿大師, 似乎他也成了這條河和叢林的一部分。他詢問我的來意, 用心傾聽。不久,我便感到壓力減輕了-

20、 老實(shí)告訴你,我當(dāng)時可嚇壞了- 他嘴角微微上揚(yáng),他笑了。I had received the shaman's blessing to study the river, on the condition that after I take the water samples and analyze them in my lab, wherever I was in the world, that I pour the waters back into the ground so that, as the shaman said,

21、0;the waters could find their way back home.我對這條河的研究得到了薩滿大師的祝福,他只有一點(diǎn)要求,那便是待我取樣并帶回實(shí)驗(yàn)室分析后,不管我在世界的哪一個角落,我要把這些水倒回地上,薩滿大師說,這樣這些水便能回到河流里。Ø Despite his skepticism, he was still expecting to see the boiling river.Ø He promised to pour the water samples back into the ground after analyzing them in

22、his lab.Ø He was freaking out when the shaman asked about his intentions.Ø He immediately grabbed his thermometer to measure the rivers temperature. I've been back every year since that first visit in 2011, and the fieldwork has been exhilarating, demanding and at times dangerous.

23、 One story was even featured in National Geographic Magazine. I was trapped on a small rock about the size of a sheet of paper in sandals and board shorts, in between an 80 degree C river and a hot spring that, well, looked like this, close to boiling. And on top of that, it was

24、Amazon rain forest. Pshh, pouring rain, couldn't see a thing. The temperature differential made it all white. It was a whiteout. Intense.2011年的勘測后,我每年都會回去, 我的勘測結(jié)果甚是喜人, 有些時候也頗有些危險和挑戰(zhàn)。 我的故事甚至被刊登到了國家地理這本雜志上。 我被困在了和一張紙一樣大小的石頭上, 穿著涼鞋和運(yùn)動短褲,置身于80的河水 和接近沸點(diǎn)的溫泉中。

25、60;不僅如此,那還是在亞馬遜雨林。 那是傾盆大雨,什么也看不見。 溫差使得周圍的一切看起來都是白色的。 局勢很緊張。Now, after years of work, I'll soon be submitting my geophysical and geochemical studies for publication. And I'd like to share, today, with all of you here, on the TED stage, for the first time, some of

26、 these discoveries.現(xiàn)在,經(jīng)過多年的研究, 我即將發(fā)表關(guān)于地球物理和化學(xué)的論文。 今天站在TED的舞臺上,我想和大家一起分享, 這也是我首次揭露其中的一些發(fā)現(xiàn)。Well, first off, it's not a legend. Surprise! 首先,這并不是一個傳說。 意想不到吧!When I first started the research, the satellite imagery was too low-resolution to be meaningful. There wer

27、e just no good maps. Thanks to the support of the Google Earth team, I now have this. Not only that, the indigenous name of the river, Shanay-timpishka, "boiled with the heat of the sun," indicates that I'm not the first to wonder why the river boils, and showi

28、ng that humanity has always sought to explain the world around us.在我最初開始這項(xiàng)研究的時候, 有關(guān)的衛(wèi)星圖像像素很低,幾乎沒什么用。 那時就沒什么高質(zhì)量的地圖。 多虧了谷歌地球這個團(tuán)隊(duì), 現(xiàn)在我有了這個。 不僅如此,這條河的本名Shanay-timpishka, "由太陽燒開的河“ 說明我并不是第一個對這條河沸騰感到好奇的人, 也說明了人類一直以來都嘗試著去解釋 我們生活的世界。So why does the river boi

29、l? 為什么這條河會沸騰呢?It actually took me three years to get that footage. 這些圖像是我花了三年時間收集來的。Fault-fed hot springs. As we have hot blood running through our veins and arteries, so, too, the earth has hot water running through its cracks and faults.Where these arteries come to the surface, these earth arterie

30、s, we'll get geothermal manifestations: fumaroles, hot springs and in our case, the boiling river.地質(zhì)斷層滋長溫泉。 正如人類體內(nèi)的血管和動脈里流動著熱血一樣, 地球的裂縫和斷層里也流淌著熱水。 那些在地球表面的”動脈“, 就是地?zé)岜憩F(xiàn): 噴氣孔,溫泉,正是我們這里的沸騰河。What's truly incredible, though, is the scale of this place. Next time you

31、cross the road, think about this. The river flows wider than a two-lane road along most of its path. It flows hot for 6.24 kilometers. Truly impressive. There are thermal pools larger than this TED stage, and that waterfall that you see there is six meters tall - and all with near-boiling

32、water.然而,真正難以置信的是這條河的規(guī)模之大。 下次當(dāng)你過馬路的時候,不妨這樣想想。這條河大部分流經(jīng)地的寬度 超過雙車道的馬路。 而熱水流經(jīng)長度為6.24千米。 真是嘆為觀止。 有些熱泉比TED的舞臺還要大, 而你看到的那個瀑布, 其實(shí)有6米高- 全部都接近沸點(diǎn)的河水。We mapped the temperatures along the river, and this was by far the most demanding part of the fieldwork. And the results

33、were just awesome. Sorry - the geoscientist in me coming out. And it showed this amazing trend. You see, the river starts off cold. It then heats up, cools back down, heats up, cools back down, heats up again, and then has this beautiful decay curve until it smashes into this col

34、d river.我們按照河水的溫度制作地圖, 這項(xiàng)工作也是目前最為困難的部分。 出來的結(jié)果真是了不起。 抱歉,我是個地理科學(xué)迷這事兒暴露了。 我們的結(jié)論展示出了一種趨勢。 你看,這條河的河口是冷水。 接下來逐漸升溫,再降溫,再升,又降, 再次升溫,于是有了這些可愛的衰減曲線,直到最后奔騰進(jìn)冰冷的河水中。Now, I understand not all of you are geothermal scientists, so to put it in more everyday terms: Everyo

35、ne loves coffee. Yes? Good. Your regular cup of coffee, 54 degrees C, an extra-hot one, well, 60.So, put in coffee shop terms, the boiling river plots like this. There you have your hot coffee. Here you have your extra-hot coffee, and you can see that there's a

36、 bit point there where the river is still hotter than even the extra-hot coffee. And these are average water temperatures. We took these in the dry season to ensure the purest geothermal temperatures.我知道在座的有些并不是研究地?zé)峥茖W(xué)的,所以,用日常生活來舉個例子: 人人都愛咖啡。 對嗎? 一杯普通的咖啡是54, 特別燙的咖啡是

37、60。 所以用咖啡的例子來說, 沸騰的河水看起來是這樣的。 這是一杯熱咖啡。 這是加熱的咖啡, 可以看到這里有一個尖尖的地方, 那就是這條河要比特別燙的咖啡還要燙。 這些是水的平均溫度。 這些都是在干燥的季節(jié)采集的樣品, 為了保證得到最純粹的地?zé)釡囟取ut there's a magic number here that's not being shown, and that number is 47 degrees C, because that's where th

38、ings start to hurt, and I know this from very personal experience. Above that temperature, you don't want to get in that water. You need to be careful. It can be deadly.但有一個神奇的數(shù)字并沒有顯示出來, 那就是47, 因?yàn)檫@是有害的臨界點(diǎn)。 我知道這一點(diǎn)是因?yàn)槲易约河羞^這樣的經(jīng)歷。 超過47之后,沒有人會想站在那里。 你得格外小心

39、。 因?yàn)檫@可能是致命的。I've seen all sorts of animals fall in, and what's shocking to me, is the process is pretty much the same. So they fall in and the first thing to go are the eyes. Eyes, apparently, cook very quickly. They turn this milky-white color. The stream is carrying the

40、m. They're trying to swim out, but their meat is cooking on the bone because it's so hot. So they're losing power, losing power, until finally they get to a point where hot water goes into their mouths and they cook from the inside out.我看到各種各樣的動物掉入河里, 讓我感到驚訝

41、的是,整個過程幾乎都雷同的。 當(dāng)它們掉進(jìn)河里時,第一個受到傷害的便是眼睛。 眼睛顯然不用煮多久,便成了奶白色。 河流把它們卷走。 雖然它們試著游上岸,但是他們正在被由外到內(nèi)烹飪著, 因?yàn)闇囟葘?shí)在太高了。 于是,它們漸漸地失去了力氣, 最后熱水沖進(jìn)了嘴里, 從內(nèi)外外烹飪的過程開始了。Ø Whats truly incredible, though, is the scale of this place.Ø We took these in the dry season to ensure the

42、purest geothermal temperatures. 這些都是在干燥的季節(jié)采集的樣品, 為了保證得到最純粹的地?zé)釡囟取?#216; It indicates that humanity has always sought to explain the world around us. 也說明了人類一直以來都嘗試著去解釋 我們生活的世界。 A bit sadistic, aren't we? Jeez. Leave them marinating for a little longer. What's, again, amazing are these tem

43、peratures. They're similar to things that I've seen on volcanoes all over the world and even super-volcanoes like Yellowstone.有點(diǎn)讓人難過,不是嗎?天吶。讓它們在腌制一會兒。另一個神奇之處便是溫度。這些河的溫度和我所見過的火山差不多,甚至類似于黃石的超級火山。But here's the thing: the data is showing that the boiling river exists independent of volcanis

44、m. It's neither magmatic or volcanic in origin, and again, over 700 kilometers away from the nearest volcanic center.但有意思的是: 根據(jù)數(shù)據(jù),這條沸騰河 和火山并不是共存關(guān)系。這和磁場或火山都沒關(guān)系,再強(qiáng)調(diào)一次,最近的火山離這里也有700公里遠(yuǎn)。How can a boiling river exist like this? I've asked geothermal experts and volcanologists for years,

45、 and I'm still unable to find another non-volcanic geothermal system of this magnitude. It's unique. It's special on a global scale. So, still - how does it work? Where do we get this heat? There's still more research to be done to better constrain the problem and better understand t

46、he system, but from what the data is telling us now, it looks to be the result of a large hydrothermal system.這樣一條沸騰的河流是怎么形成的呢?多年來,我詢問了許多地?zé)釋<液突鹕窖芯空邆儯两褚矝]能找到另外一個非火山的地?zé)嵯到y(tǒng), 有如此大的規(guī)模。這是獨(dú)一無二的。在全球范圍內(nèi)來說都是特別的。但,它到底是怎么運(yùn)作的呢? 這些熱量從哪里來的 ? 人們還要做許多的研究才能更好的控制這個問題并理解這種系統(tǒng),但從目前我們獲得的數(shù)據(jù)看, 似乎是由大型熱泉系統(tǒng)導(dǎo)致的。Ba

47、sically, it works like this: So, the deeper you go into the earth, the hotter it gets. We refer to this as the geothermal gradient. The waters could be coming from as far away as glaciers in the Andes, then seeping down deep into the earth and coming out to form the boiling river after get

48、ting heated up from the geothermal gradient, all due to this unique geologic setting.概括起來便是:越接近地球核心,溫度越高。我們稱此為地?zé)崽荻?。這些水可能是遙遠(yuǎn)的安第斯山脈冰川融水,逐漸滲透入地球核心,然后以沸騰河的形式流出,在受到地?zé)崽荻鹊募訜嶂螅?#160;這一切都?xì)w功于這種獨(dú)特的地質(zhì)特征。Now, we found that in and around the river - this is working with colleagues from National Ge

49、ographic, Dr. Spencer Wells, and Dr. Jon Eisen from UC Davis - we genetically sequenced the extremophile life forms living in and around the river, and have found new life forms, unique species living in the boiling river.目前,我們發(fā)現(xiàn)這條河里以及附近,我同幾位來自國家地理的同事一起,來自國家地理的威爾士博士,來自UC Davis的埃森博士-我們對生活在河里以及周邊的生物-進(jìn)

50、行了基因排序,并且找到了新的生命形式,生活在沸騰河里的獨(dú)特生物。But again, despite all of these studies, all of these discoveries and the legends, a question remains: What is the significance of the boiling river? What is the significance of this stationary cloud that always hovers over this patch of jungle? And what is the signif

51、icance of a detail in a childhood legend?但,盡管有這些研究,這些發(fā)現(xiàn)和傳說,仍有一個問題縈繞人心:沸騰河的存在有重要意義嗎?那片籠罩叢林的靜止的云的存在有什么意義呢?再者,童年時代聽到的傳說又有什么重要性呢?To the shaman and his community, it's a sacred site. To me, as a geoscientist, it's a unique geothermal phenomenon. But to the illegal loggers and cattle farmers,

52、 it's just another resource to exploit. And to the Peruvian government, it's just another stretch of unprotected land ready for development.對薩滿大師和那里的居民來說,這是一個神圣的地方。對我來說,作為一名地球?qū)W家,這是獨(dú)特的地?zé)岈F(xiàn)象。但對于非法伐木和畜牧農(nóng)場主來說,這只不過是另一個可以開采的地方而已。而對于秘魯政府來說,這只不過是另一個未受保護(hù)的地方等待被開發(fā)而已。My goal is to ensure that whoever controls this land understands the boiling riv

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