教學配套課件：服裝英語

1、服裝英語Measurements and Apparel & Accessories ClassificationsONTENTS目錄C人體尺寸測量服裝部位的名稱立體裁剪放縫工業(yè)推板排料measurementsmeasurementsmeasurementsVertical measurementsAcross measurementsGirth measurementsChapter1 Apparel Equipment Girth Measurement: The measurement is taken around different position in the bodice He

2、ad Girth NeckBustWaistHipsThighKneeAnkleUpper ArmElbowWristUnit 1 Body Measurements Taking1.Across Measurement: The measurement is taken in the bodice horizontally and crosslyShoulder WidthCross Back/ X-BackCross FrontBust Point to Bust PointUnit 1 Body Measurements Taking2.Vertical Measurement: The

3、 measurement is taken in the bodice verticallyNape to Waist Shoulder to Waist Line Shoulder to Bust Point Full back Length Overarm Length Elbow Length Waist to Hips Crotch Depth Outside seam Inside seam Unit 1 Body Measurements Taking3.人體尺寸測量Unit 1 Body Measurements TakingThere might be several sect

4、ions of a garment, and each section may be composed of one or more pieces of fabrics, which are sewn together to form a garment.Tops BottomsGarment SectionsUnit 2 Garment SectionsThe tops of garments will have body, collar, sleeves, depending on the style features, and each section has various types

5、.Tops Unit 2 Garment SectionsBodyThe body of a garment is usually composed of front and back joined by side seams and shoulder seams. Some styles have the open-ing at the CF(center front), then the body will include left front and right front. Meanwhile, there are lots of jackets or suits have seams

6、 at the CB(center back), then the back will be divided into two pieces.TopsDifferent styles with various bodiesSleeveLots of garments are assembled with two sleeves, like shirts or hoodies, and some of them are composed of one-piece sleeves, the others are with two-piece sleeves. The sleeves of fitt

7、ed women jackets with higher crown, are separated to two parts, one is top sleeve and the other is under sleeve, so this kind of sleeves are called two-piece sleeves. Some sleeves are set-in sleeves, sewn into the garment armholes. There are also some raglan sleeves which are joined with body and co

8、llar. TopsCollarCollar types include flat collar, band collar, grown-on collar, collar with lapel, etc. The peter pan collar is a typical flat collar, and one of the typical band collars is the mandarin collar . Some collars are the combination of these two, such as a shirt collar, which has four pa

9、rts: top collar, under collar, top collar stand and under collar stand.TopsCollarTopsBottomsUnit 2 Garment SectionsTrousersThe basic style of a pair of trousers has five parts: waist band left frontright front left backright backThe opening of the trousers will be closed by zippers or buttons, and i

10、f the opening is at the CF, it is called fly. There should be a top fly and an under fly. Some styles like jeans will have extra components like Yokes in both of left back and right back, and coins pockets or patch pockets.TrousersBottomsBottomsSkirtsThe simplest skirt only required one piece withou

11、t a waistband. Different design elements or details achieve various styles of skirts, such as pleats, ruffles, tucks, gores and godets. There might be also some darts or yokes, to generate different silhouettes of the skirts. Some of them look feminine, and some of them look girly. The changing of a

12、 skirt length could also reveal the trends in the fashion history. Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsAccording to styles, genders, ages, body characters and occasions, there are several ways to classify clothing. For examples, as we mentioned in last chapter, there are tops and bottoms. Generally clothi

13、ng could be classified as womens wear, mens wear, childrens wear. Womens wear01Mens wear02Childrens wear03Womens wearThere are basic styles showing in most womens closets, like dress, skirt, pants, jackets, coats, blazers, cardigans and sweaters. These clothes might be sexy, sweet or neutral, depend

14、ing on their characters. The most popular outerwear for women is dress, no matter various silhouettes. It is commonly to find shirt dress, coat dress, princess dress or dress with empire lines in popular markets. A dress also could be mentioned as one-piece in fashion magazines.Womens wear Unit 3 Ap

15、parel ClassificationsTOPSCOATSSKIRTSSWIM WEARTROUSERSTROUSERSMens wearMen do not like shopping as women do, and their clothes styles are simpler than womens. A three-piece suit includes a jacket, a pair of trousers and a vest or a waistcoat. It is usually found in some invitation cards that lounge s

16、uit requested, meaning less formal suit or office suit will be appropriate on this occasion. This kind of suit is worn with a long-sleeve shirt and a tie as a traditional western standard business wear. Mens wear Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsUnit 3 Apparel ClassificationsChildrens wearThe purpose o

17、f childrens wear is different from adults wear, and designers will put the comfortability on the first place. Babys wear has more strict standards to control the quality of the clothes. Natural fibers are more popular and some parents are picky to choose clothes for their childes, especially mothers

18、. Overalls, jumpers, jersey and T-shirts with cute printings are their favorite. Childrens wear Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsKids wearBabys wearUnit 4 Accessory ClassificationsAccessories are very important for a chic womans daily look, and most of these luxury fashion brands developed fashion acce

19、ssories with their signatures, such as handbags, sunglasses, scarves, belts, shoes, jewelries, watches, etc. Head wear32Head wearFoot wearPurseAccessory Classifications服裝英語Garment MaterialONTENTS目錄C服用纖維的種類服裝紗線服裝織物服用輔料服裝材料的管理39Fabric plays a very important part of apparel industry, and its characters

20、 impact the appearance of clothes, so the knowledge of garments materials will be necessary for professional peoples involved in apparel industry.Chapter 2 Garment MaterialChapter 2 Garment MaterialUNIT 5UNIT 6UNIT 7UNIT 8Textile Fibers and yarnsFabricTrimmingsGarment Material ManagementUnit 5 Texti

21、le Fibers and yarns12FIBERSYARNSNatual FiberMan-made FiberTextile FiberCotton fiberLinen fiberSilkWoolUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsCotton,mercerizedCotton,not mercerizedUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsRamieFlaxHempUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsThere are two ways to manufacture textile-like fabrics

22、:one is weaving and the other is knitting, and the quality of fabrics depends on how the yarns are woven or knitted and finished. Colors, textures, printings of the fabrics might be the key elements to attract customers. Unit 6 FabricThere are some common woven fabrics: calico, poplin, chintz, palac

23、e, serge, panama, denim, venetian, flannel, twill, gabardine and herringbone, etc. the name is applied to any plain cotton. Poplin: a rib-weave fabric, usually made from viscose fibers.Calicoa cotton or cotton blend fabric with a pile of ribs in the warp.Corduroya woolen or worsted twill fabric with

24、 a soft handle and surface achieved by milling.FlannelChintza brightly printed and glazed cotton fabric.Panamaa lightweight plain weave suiting fabric.Sergerobust twill weave fabric, usually made from wool and plain dyed.Tweedsturdy woolen cloth, originally woven in southern Scotland but now applied

25、 to wide range of fabrics.Twillfabrics woven in twill weave, and their surface can be recognized easily by the diagonal appearance.Unit 6 FabricUnit 6 FabricKnitted fabrics are more stretchable than woven fabrics, because they are made by intermeshing loops, and they are classified to two types: wef

26、t knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric. They usually include Plain/Jersey, Rib/Double jersey, Interlock, Terry knit as mentioned below:semi-circular needle loops shown in the back, and V-shaped loops shown in the front.Plain/Jerseythe structure reveals alternate wale of plain and reversed plain st

27、itches. There are 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib, etc. They have good stretch ability so usually used for cuffs, collars and waistbands. Interlock: looks like rib, can only be unraveled from the last end, without tendency to ladder and curl.RibTerry knita fabric as in Fig.2.2.3, more flexible than woven terry

28、cloth.51Knitted FabricNon woven FabricUnit 6 FabricLeather and furUnit 6 FabricTrimmings means accessories applied in garment, and sometimes they make the clothes look more expensive. Unit 7 TrimmingsLining sewn to the shell fabrics to cover the stitches or made for the wearer easily to pull though

29、the shell sleeve, sometimes provide warmth and can be removable.Interliningit is usually used for collar, cuff or lapel, keeping their shapes. There are 3 types of them, fusible interlining, non-fusible interlining and sew-in interlining.Buttonsbuttons could be made of metal, wood, leather or plasti

30、c, and the size of a button is very important as information in the trimming sheet of suppliers.Zippersa zipper basically has two parts: a slider and teeth. There are metal zippers, nylon zippers and plastic zippers, and the first one is most expensive among them.ZippersButtonsUnit 8 Garment Materia

31、l ManagementFabric pursing0102Fabric warehousingA new round to merchandise new products or collections will start with fabric swatches, trend information and last season market report. The fabric swatches might be sent by suppliers, or collected by design department, and they will be developed to cl

32、othes for the next season. The design apartment take responsibility for the develop samples, and designers would contact vendors and suppliers frequently for the fabric colors, sometimes they ask suppliers to make lab dips before purchasing department give orders to suppliers. 01Date02Order number03

33、A piece of fabric swatch/ lab dip04Description on color, name, texture, quality and other details05Delivery date06How to deliver and packUnit 8 Garment Material ManagementClothes manufactures will check the fabrics after they receive them, and it is necessary to lay out the whole yards of the fabric

34、 on the long tables in a big room. The grain of woven fabrics might be first to be checked with, to avoid problems happened during cutting and sewing. Plaid and stripes and checks require more fabrics because they need to be matched at the seams. There is a stock-keeping section to keep and manage t

35、he fabrics and trimmings. They check incoming and outgoing materials, and keep stock in appropriate ways. Meanwhile enough stock has to be provided preventing production from stopping. Garment Material Management服裝英語Apparel Industry EquipmentONTENTS目錄C01縫制前加工機械設備使用與維修02通用縫紉機使用與維修：平縫機的使用與維護03專用縫紉機械使用

36、與維修：鎖邊機、鋸齒機，鎖眼機，繰邊機的使用與維護04裝飾縫紉機械使用與維修05整理定型機械設備使用與維修：熨燙設備的使用與維護06機縫線跡，服裝繪圖軟件：各種不同線跡及車縫，服裝輔助繪圖軟件There are many types of sewing machines, according to their stitch types, applications and needles. The most important and common one is the lockstitch machines, and it is widely used in apparel factories

37、. Other sewing machines are used for the various purposes during the production process. For example, overlock machine is used to finish seams of woven fabric, and the felling machine could be used for hems with stitches on the surface of clothes.Unit 9 Apparel Equipment1Sewing MachinesLockstitch ma

38、chine is widely used in the sewing section. It joins two panels together, and suitable for most of the fabrics except for those very elastic ones, while a machine with a loop formation would be more appropriate. There are two types of them, according to the number of needles they have, one is single

39、-needle lockstitch and the other is double-needle stitch.Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentBrother lockstitch sewing machineLockstitch MachineUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentSewing machine detailsThey all need electric power to start, so the needles of them could perform well at the very high speeds of 50008000 stitc

40、hes per minute. To avoid the needle broken, we need to check the fabrics thickness, the tension of the thread, and the stitch length. For example, seams are usually stitched with 4-5 stitches per centimeters, easing and gathering could be done with 3-4 stitches.Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentOverlock stitc

41、h machine: This kind of machine is usually used for neatening the raw edges of fabrics. Their loop formation can totally enclose the raw edges, but the fabric edges would also be cut when they sew the panels together. An overlock machine has more threads involved. Three or four thread overlock machi

42、nes are very common in the production line.Overlock stitch machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentOverlock Stitch MachineFelling machine is used for securing of hems with invisible stitches on the right side of the fabrics, so it is also called blind stitch hemming machine sometimes

43、. This machine has curved needles, and sewing chain stitches with only a fraction of the fabric caught.Felling machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentButtonhole machine is a must-have machine in almost every factory. The size of the buttonholes could be alternate according to the requirement of client. It

44、is a chain stitch machine, and there is a blade to cut the center of the buttonhole automatically.Buttonhole machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentZigzag Machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentUnit 9 Apparel Equipment家用電動縫紉機特種縫紉機（針織用）縫盤機Unit 1 Apparel Equipment電腦繡花機The steam iron should be necessary, and surely

45、with an ironing board. The temperature, pressure and pressing time can be pre-set. The operator also require other assistant tools like sleeve board or seam roll, to press different parts of the clothes. It is very important to put the iron appropriately when the operator doesnt use it, and turn off

46、 the power.Unit 9 Apparel Equipment2Pressing Machinefancy stitchVarious overlock stitchesStitch TypesSingle needle stitchdouble needle stitchStitch Types電腦繡花圖案 Stitch TypesUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentStitch problemsPlain seam Seam TypesSlot Seam French seamUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentAuto CAD mainly used fo

47、r drawing patterns in computers, and printing and cutting them out directly. It is much more convenient for technicians to draw draft and revise them in computer. The other effective advantage of Auto CAD is to grade in computer, just need to digitize around the pattern pieces of medium size and inp

48、ut the grading rules, and then the system will automatically calculate all the key points and draw all size patterns. Auto CAD is also used for lay planning in computer, and that means arrange all the pattern pieces in a single layer of fabric. The system will calculate the percentage of the fabric

49、consumption automatically, and the technician can change the place of the pieces to get the biggest number of the consumption.Auto CAD and Other Software服裝英語Garment DesignONTENTS目錄C服用纖維的種類流行趨勢服裝表達面輔料設計服裝設計原則Chapter 4 Garment DesignUNIT 10UNIT 11Design Principles and Fashion TrendsSketches and Fabric

50、ationFashion design is kind of art presenting on the human body, meanwhile it is a part of commercial process. For the professional designers, customers are the final judge of the products they designed and developed. The market level, the price points, and consumers demand of non-verbal communicati

51、ons to social status, sex appeal, fitting and ease of carethese issues have to be taken into account by designers. They need to find design solutions to provide customers eye-catching items and collection. Unit 10 Design Principles and Fashion Trends030201colorsilhouetteproportionDesign PrinciplesDe

52、signers usually develop a color palette with the reference of a commercial color system. Pantone is this kind of internationally recognized color referencing system, and it has various books with different texture. It is convenient for people around the world to communicate and accurate enough in re

53、present the original color. The color palette should also consider customers preference and lifestyles.01Design PrinciplesColorDesign PrinciplesColorDesign PrinciplesColorColorPantone ColorColorDuring the fashion history there have been iconic shapes created, and these silhouettes often associated w

54、ith social and economic influences of the time. 02Design PrinciplesVarious figuresUnit 10 Design Principles and Fashion TrendsUnit 10 Design Principles and Fashion TrendsVarious figuresUnit 10 Design Principles and Fashion TrendsVarious figuresUnit 10 Design Principles and Fashion TrendsColor VS sil

55、houette Proportion is quite vital to decide if it is a good design to flatter the wearer or not. Basically proportion is a linear sub-division of shapes, and concerns the visual balance of shape, color, texture, etc. However, every era has its own ideal figure and body shape, and it will impact our

56、sense of garment balance.03Design PrinciplesDesign PrinciplesProportions Fashion trends are affected by continuous actions of political events, economic changes, social and cultural changes. Fashion predictions material could be found in catwalk collections and retail samples. Some of the designers

57、would spend lots of money to pay for the prediction consultancy publications. They usually predict about 18 months to 2 years ahead of time. There are some famous global style networks, such as “WGSN”. Designers could get information of color palettes along with commercial fabrics, and style informa

58、tion along with technical drawings of designers collections.Fashion trendsFashion trendsDesigners concepts and ideas are firstly expressed on paper by illustrations. The design development process also needs to draw on the paper, in order to fully expand an initial concept. There are two kinds of sk

59、etches involved, one is fashion illustration and the other is production sketch. The former is concerned with models with suitable figures and the clothes which developed from the designers concepts. (The figure should not be life-like, but stylized with longer legs and slim curves.) The latter is a

60、n accurate sketch (usually a computer sketch) of a garment reveals the production details about darts, seams, stitches, proportions and other points.Sketch Unit 11 Sketches and Fabrication108Fashion IllustrationsSketchesSketchesProduction Sketch of Mens shirtSketchesProduction Sketch of Childrens We