紡織專業(yè)英語部分課文英漢對照翻譯

目錄TOC\o"1-3"\h\z\t"樣式1,1"01課CottonGrowing棉花種植 102課CottonPropertiesandUses棉纖維特征和用途 204課Wool羊毛 505課StructureandPropertiesofWool羊毛纖維結(jié)構(gòu)和性能 706課Silk絲綢 1007課Flax亞麻 1309課Rayon人造絲 1612課YARNS 1913課

紗線結(jié)構(gòu)和織物外觀關(guān)系 2021課精紡和粗紡 2225課絡(luò)紗 2327課整經(jīng) 2633課織機 3440課蓬勃發(fā)展非織造布 4349課染色 48

第一課CottonGrowing棉花種植Cottonistheworld'smostwidelyusedfiber.Itspopularitystemsfrombothitsrelativeeaseofproductionanditsapplicabilitytoawidevarietyoftextileproducts.Thepriceofcottonyarn,however,isstronglydependentuponthecostoflabor,sothatintheindustrializednations,wherelaborisexpensive,cottonyarnsmayberelativelyhighpriced.棉花是世界上使用最廣泛纖維。它流行源于它生產(chǎn)及其在紡織產(chǎn)品廣泛適用性相對輕易。棉紗價格，然而，強烈地依賴于勞動力成本，所以，在工業(yè)化國家，那里勞動力昂貴，棉紗可能相對較高價格。Untilrelativelyrecenttimes,however,cottonwasnotaswidelyusedaswoolandlinen.Thiswasbecauseitwaseasiertospinwoolorflaxintoyambecauseoftheirgreaterlength.Inaddition,cottonfibershavetobeseparatedfromtheseedstowhichtheycling.Thisprocedurewasverytediousandtime-consumingwhendonebyhand.Earlymachinerycouldbeusedononlythelongeststaplecotton.Solaborcoststendedtobeveryhigh.直到最近，然而，棉花是沒有廣泛用作羊毛和亞麻布。這是因為它輕易被毛或亞麻紡成紗因為其更大長度。另外，棉纖維要從種子中分離出來，他們依靠。這個過程是非常繁瑣和費時，手工做。早期機器能夠用在只有長纖維棉花。所以勞動力成本會很高。Theinventionofthesaw-typecottonginmadepossibletheexploitationoftheshortstaplefiber,whichthrivedintheCarolinasandVirginiaoftheUnitedStates.Thedramaticincreaseinproductivity,coupledwiththelowcostoflaborinthesouthernUnitedStates,gavecottonacontinuallyexpandingportionoftheworldtextilemarket.Increasingmechanizationoffiberandyarnproductionhelpedkeepthecostofcottongoodslow.The,developmentofthetextilemachineryenlargedtheproductionbase.鋸片式軋棉機創(chuàng)造使可能短纖維開發(fā)，興盛于美國北卡羅萊納州和弗吉尼亞州。生產(chǎn)率急劇增加，加上在美國南部人工成本低，給棉不停擴大在全球紡織市場部。機械化程度提升，纖維和紗線生產(chǎn)使棉花成本低商品。紡織機械發(fā)展，擴大了生產(chǎn)基地。Cottoncultivationrequireswarmclimateswithahighlevelofmoistureorirrigation.Thegrowingseasonisfromsixtosevenmonthslong.Duringthisperiodtheseedssproutandgrow,producingawhiteblossominabout100days.Theblossomproducesaseedpod,whichmaturesduringthenexttwomonths.Whenthepodbursts,thecottonfibersarereadyforpicking.棉花種植需要溫暖氣候和水分或澆灌高水平。生長季節(jié)是從六到七個月。這一時期種子發(fā)芽生長，在大約100天，產(chǎn)生白色花。當(dāng)莢破裂，棉纖維是采摘。Beforeyammanufacture,cottonisgraded,sorted,andblendedtoinsureuniformyamquality.Cottonisgradedonthebasisofcolor,staplelength,fineness,andfreedomfromforeignmatter.IntheUnitedStates,cottonsaredividedintogradesaccordingtolengthofstaple,uniformity,strength,color,cleannessandflexibility.ThesearecomparedwithastandardsuppliedbytheUnitedStatesDepartmentofAgriculture.Thestandardprovides6gradesaboveand6gradesbelowtheMiddlinggrade.Themostcommongradesare:山藥生產(chǎn)之前，棉花分級，分類，和混合均勻紗線質(zhì)量確保。棉花是彩色，依據(jù)梯度纖維長度，細(xì)度，和外來物質(zhì)自由。在美國，棉花分依照纖維均勻性，強度，顏色，長度為等級，清潔和靈活性。這些都是由美國農(nóng)業(yè)部提供一個標(biāo)準(zhǔn)比較。本標(biāo)準(zhǔn)要求了6級以上，6級以下中等。最常見等級：(1)Strictgoodmiddling.（1）嚴(yán)格上級。(2)Goodmiddling.（2）上級。(3)Strictmiddling.（3）嚴(yán)格中等。(4)Middling.（4）中。(5)Strictlowmiddling（5）嚴(yán)格低中等(6)Lowmiddling.（6）低中等。(7)Strictgoodordinary.（7）嚴(yán)格好普通。Thecottonfibermaybefrom0.3to5.5cmlong.Underthemicroscopeitappearsasaribbonlikestructurethatistwistedatirregularintervalsalongitslength.Thetwists,calledconvolutions,increasethefiber-to-fiberfrictionnecessarytosecureastrongspunyarn.Thefiberrangesincolorfromayellowishtopurewhite,andmaybeverylustrous.However,mostcottondull.棉纖維可從0.3到5.5厘米長。在顯微鏡下看起來是一個帶狀結(jié)構(gòu)，沿其長度不規(guī)則時間間隔扭曲。曲波折折，稱為卷積，增加纖維間摩擦力要取得一個強有力紗。從淺黃色到純白色纖維范圍，并能夠很有光澤。然而，大多數(shù)棉花遲鈍。Across-sectionalviewrevealsthatthefiberiskidney-shapedwithcentralhollowcoreknownasthelumen.Thelumenprovidesachannelfornutrientswhiletheplantisgrowing.Thefiberconsistsofanoutershell,orcuticle,whichsurroundstheprimarywall.Theprimarywall,inturn,coversthesecondarywallsurroundingthelumen.Thecuticleisathin,hardshellwhichprotectsthefiberfrombruisinganddamageduringgrowth.Inuseasatextilefiber,thecuticleprovidesabrasionresistancetocotton.管腔提供養(yǎng)分通道而植物生長。纖維由外殼，或角質(zhì)層，圍繞初生壁。反過來，包含初生壁，管腔周圍次生壁。角質(zhì)層是薄，堅硬外殼保護纖維生長過程中破碎和損傷。在用作紡織纖維，角質(zhì)層提供了耐磨抗棉。第二課CottonPropertiesandUses棉纖維特征和用途Arelativelyhighlevelofmoistureabsorptionandgoodwickingpropertieshelpmakecottononeofthemorecomfortablefibers.Becauseofthehydroxylgroupsinthecellulose,cottonhasahighattractionforwater.Aswaterentersthefiber,cottonswellsanditscrosssectionbecomesmorerounded.Thehighaffinityformoistureandtheabilitytoswellwhenwetallowcottontoabsorbaboutone-fourthofitsweightinwater.Thismeansthatinhotweatherperspirationfromthebodywillbeabsorbedincottonfabrics,transportedalongtheyarnstotheoutersurfaceoftheclothandevaporatedintotheair.Thus,thebodywillbeaidedinmaintainingitstemperature.吸濕性和良好吸濕排汗性能使棉纖維一個更舒適一個比較高水平。因為在纖維素羥基基團，棉花對水有很強吸引力。當(dāng)水進入纖維棉，膨脹，其截面變得更圓。水分和膨脹時濕讓棉花吸收水重量約四分之一高親和力能力。這意味著，在酷熱天氣里，身體汗會吸收棉織品，沿運紗布外表面和蒸發(fā)到空氣中。所以，身體會幫助維持其溫度。Unfortunately,thehydrophilicnatureofcottonmakesitsusceptibletowater-bornestains.Water-solublecolorantssuchasthoseincoffeeorgrapejuicewillpenetratethefiberalongwiththewater;whenthewaterevaporates,thecolorantistrappedinthefiber.Perhapsthemajordisadvantagetocottongoodsistheirtendencytowrinkleandthedifficultyofremovingwrinkles.Therigidityofcottonfiberreducestheabilityofyarnstoresistwrinkling.Whenthefibersarebenttoanewconfiguration,thehydrogenbondswhichholdthecellulosechainstogetherarerupturedandthemoleculesslideinordertominimizethestresswithinthefiber.Thehydrogenbondsreforminthenewpositions,sothatwhenthecrushingforceisremovedthefibersstayinthenewpositions.Itistheruptureandreformationofthehydrogenbondsthathelpstomaintainwrinkles,sothatcottongoodsmustbeironed.不幸是，棉花親水性使得它輕易受到水漬。如在咖啡或葡萄汁水溶性色素會滲透纖維伴隨水；當(dāng)水分蒸發(fā)，著色劑是困在纖維?？赡苤饕秉c，棉織品是他們傾向，皺紋和去除皺紋困難。棉纖維剛度降低紗線抗起皺能力。當(dāng)纖維彎曲一個新配置，氫債券持有纖維素鏈在一起破裂和分子滑動以降低纖維中應(yīng)力。在新位置氫鍵改革，所以當(dāng)破碎力去除纖維保持在新位置。這是氫鍵，有利于保持皺紋斷裂和改革，使棉織品要熨。Cottonisamoderatelystrongfiberwithgoodabrasionresistanceandgooddimensionalstability.Itisresistanttotheacids,alkalies,andorganicsolventsnormallyavailabletoconsumers.Butsinceitisanaturalmaterial,itissubjecttoattackbyinsects,moldsandfungus.Mostprominentisthetendencyforcottontomildewifallowedtoremaindamp.棉花是具備良好耐磨性和尺寸穩(wěn)定性好，中等強度纖維。這是抵抗酸，堿和有機溶劑，通常提供給消費者。但因為它是一個天然物質(zhì)，它是受攻擊昆蟲，霉菌和真菌。最突出是棉花霉?fàn)€傾向，假如允許存在潮濕。Cottonresistssunlightandheatwell,althoughdirectexposuretoconstantstrongsunlightwillcauseyellowingandeventualdegradationofthefiber.Yellowingmayalsooccurwhencottongoodsaredriedingasdryers.Thecolorchangeistheresultofachemicalreactionbetweencelluloseandoxygenornitrogenoxidesinthehotairinthedryer.Cottonswillretaintheirwhitenesslongerwhenline-driedordriedintheelectricdryer.棉花抗太陽光和熱，即使直接暴露于恒定強烈陽光會引發(fā)黃最終降解纖維。變黃時也可能出現(xiàn)在氣干燥器干燥棉織品。顏色改變是一個化學(xué)反應(yīng)纖維素和氧或氮氧化物之間在熱空氣中干燥結(jié)果。棉花將保留其白度較長時，線干或在電干燥器中干燥。Ofmajorinterestisthefactthatcottonyarnisstrongerwhenwetthanwhendry.Thispropertyisaconsequenceofthemacro-andmicro-structuralfeaturesofthefiber.Aswaterisabsorbed,thefiberswellsanditscrosssectionbecomesmorerounded.Usuallytheabsorptionofsuchalargeamountofforeignmaterialwouldcauseahighdegreeofinternalstressandleadtoweakeningofthefiber.Incotton,however,theabsorptionofwatercausesadecreaseintheinternalstresses.Thus,withlessinternalstressestoovercome,theswollenfiberbecomesstronger.Atthesametime,theswollenfiberswithintheyarnspressuponeachothermorestrongly.Theinternalfrictionstrengthenstheyarns.Inaddition,theabsorbedwateractsasaninternallubricantwhichimpartsahigherlevelofflexibilitytothefibers.Thisaccountsforthefactthatcottongarmentsaremoreeasilyironedwhendamp.Cottonfabricsaresusceptibletoshrinkageuponlaundering.主要感興趣是事實，棉紗時干時濕比。此屬性宏觀和微觀結(jié)構(gòu)特征纖維結(jié)果。當(dāng)水被吸收，纖維膨脹，其截面變得更圓。通常這種大量外來物質(zhì)吸收會造成內(nèi)部應(yīng)力較高，造成纖維弱化。然而，棉花，水吸收造成內(nèi)部應(yīng)力降低。所以，降低內(nèi)部應(yīng)力來克服，腫脹纖維變得更強。同時，在紗線溶脹纖維按對彼此更強烈。內(nèi)部摩擦增強紗線。另外，所吸收水作為一個內(nèi)部潤滑劑，賦予纖維較高水平靈活性。這說明棉花衣服更輕易熨潮濕時。純棉織物易收縮對洗錢。Perhapsmorethananyotherfiber,cottonsatisfiestherequirementsofapparel,homefurnishings,recreational,andindustrialuses.Itprovidesfabricsthatarestrong,lightweight,pliable,easilydried,andreadilylaundered.Inapparel,cottonprovidesgarmentsthatarecomfortable,readilydriedinbright,long-lastingcolors,andeasytocarefor.Themajordrawbacksareapropensityforcottonyamstoshrinkandforcottonclothtowrinkle.Shrinkagemaybecontrolledbytheapplicationofshrink-resistantfinishes.Durable-presspropertiesmaybeimpartedbychemicaltreatmentorbyblendingcottonwithmorewrinkle-resistantfibers,suchaspolyester.可能比任何其余纖維，棉滿足服裝，家居家俱，休閑要求，和工業(yè)用途。它提供了強大，面料輕薄，柔軟，易干燥，易清洗。在服裝，棉提供服裝，舒適，輕易干燥，在明亮，持久色彩，輕易照料。主要缺點是一個棉紗和棉布收縮起皺傾向。收縮能夠由應(yīng)用程序控制防縮整理。免燙性能能夠經(jīng)過化學(xué)處理或由棉纖維混紡傳授更多抗皺，如滌綸。Inhomefurnishings,cottonservesindurable,general-servicefabrics.Althoughtheymaylacktheformalappearanceofmaterialsmadefromotherfibers,cottongoodsprovideacomfortable,homeyenvironment.Cottonfabricshavebeenthemainstayofbedlinensandtowelsfordecades,becausetheyarecomfortable,durable,andmoisture-absorbent.Polyester/cottonblendsprovidethemodernconsumerwithno-ironsheetsandpillowcasesthatretainacrisp,freshfeel.在居家擺設(shè)，耐用是棉花，織物通常服務(wù)。即使他們可能缺乏來自其余纖維材料形式出現(xiàn)，棉織品提供一個舒適，溫馨環(huán)境。棉織物一直是幾十年來床單和毛巾支柱，因為他們是舒適，耐用，和吸濕劑。滌/棉混紡織物提供沒有鐵床單和枕套，保持一個清楚當(dāng)代消費，新鮮感覺。Forrecreationaluse,cottonhastraditionallybeenusedfortentingandcampinggear,boatsails,tennisshoesandsportswear.Cottonisparticularlywell-suitedfortent.Atentfabricmustbeableto"breath",sothattheoccupantsarenotsmotheredintheirowncarbondioxide.Furthermore,exchangeofairwiththeoutsideatmospherereducesthehumiditywithinthetentandkeepsitfrombecomingstuffy.Fabricswovenfromcottoncanbeopenenoughtoprovidegoodairpermeabilityforcomfort.Tentsshouldalsoshedwater,whenwetbyrain,cottonyarnsswell,reducingtheintersticesbetweentheyarnsandresistingthepenetrationofwater.Today,however,heavycanvasgearisbeingsupplantedbylight-weightnylonintentingequipment.用于娛樂用途，棉花已被用于帳篷和野營裝備，船帆，運動鞋和運動服。棉花是尤其適合帳篷。一個帳篷織物必須能夠“呼吸”，讓居住者不被自己二氧化碳。另外，與外界空氣交換降低濕度在帳篷和使它變得悶。機織物棉能夠打開足夠舒適，提供良好透氣性。帳篷也流下水，當(dāng)被雨水打濕，棉紗膨脹，降低紗線和抗水滲透之間間隙。今天，然而，沉重帆布齒輪被取代輕質(zhì)尼龍檢測設(shè)備。Cottoncord,twineandropesareusedinindustrytobind,hold,andlashallkindsofthings,frombalestoboats.Cottonyarnsareusedtoreinforcebeltsondrivemotorsandinworkclothing.棉繩，繩和繩行業(yè)中使用綁定，持有，鞭笞和各種各樣?xùn)|西，從包船。棉紗是用來加強對驅(qū)動電機和工作服帶。第四課Wool羊毛Theearlyhistoryofwoolislostinantiquity.Sheepskin,includingthehair,wasprobablyusedlongbeforeitwasdiscoveredthatthefiberscouldbespunintoyarnsorevenfeltedintofabric.Thereisnoevidencetosupportthetheorythatwoolwasthefirstfibertobeprocessedintofabric,butitseemscertainthat,asapartoftheskin,woolwasusedforcoveringandprotectionbyprehistoricpeopleslongbeforeyarnsandfabricsweremade.羊毛早期歷史失傳了。羊皮，包含頭發(fā)，可能很久以前發(fā)覺纖維可紡成紗線或織成織物氈。沒有證據(jù)支持，羊毛被加工成織物第一光纖理論，但似乎必定是，作為皮膚一部分，羊毛被用于覆蓋和保護史前人類早在紗線和織物進行了。TheearliestfragmentsofwoolfabrichavebeenfoundinEgypt,probablybecauseofthepreservingqualitiesoftheclimate.Thesehavebeendatedfrom4000to3500BC.TheearliestexampleofwoolfabricfoundinEuropehasbeendatedabout1500BC;itwasunearthedinarcheologicaldigsinGermany.Danishsiteshaveyieldedexcellentfragmentsofearlywoolfabricsdatedabout1300to1000BC.Thesefabricsareroughandcoarseandcontainconsiderablewildsheephair.毛織物最早碎片已經(jīng)被發(fā)覺在埃及，可能是因為保鮮品質(zhì)氣候。這些已經(jīng)從公元前4000到公元前3500。最早羊毛織物發(fā)覺在歐洲已經(jīng)于約公元前1500；這是出土考古發(fā)掘，在德國。丹麥網(wǎng)站已經(jīng)取得了優(yōu)良片段早期羊毛織物約公元前1300至公元前10。這些織物粗糙，含有大量野生綿羊毛。Woolisanaturalfiberofanimalorigin.Thoughvegetablefiberswereprobablythefirsttobeusedforspinningandweavingintocloth,animalfibersintheformofskinsweretheearliesttypeofclothingwornbyman.羊毛是來自于動物天然纖維。盡管植物纖維可能被用于紡紗和織布第一，在動物毛皮纖維最早人穿服裝類型。Thereareindicationsthat,asearlyastheseventhcenturyBC,peoplebegantosellandbuywoolengoods.Thesupplyofwoolavailabletotheworldeveryyearamountstoabout5000millionpounds.Afterscouring,thisisreducedtoabout3000millionpoundsofpurewool.Thewoolcropisinsufficienttomeettheworldneeds.Purewoolisoftenmixedwithothertypefibersandrecoveredwooltomeetthedemand.有跡象表明，早在公元前第七世紀(jì)，人們開始買賣毛織品。羊毛每年向世界供給量大約500千萬磅。沖刷后，這是降低到大約300千萬磅純羊毛。羊毛產(chǎn)量不能滿足世界需要。純羊毛通常與其它纖維混合和再生毛滿足需求。Thequalitiesofdifferentwoolsvarygreatly.ThemerinosheepofAustralia,SouthAmericaandSouthAfricaproduceveryfreeandsoftwool.Thequalityofwoolfromthesesourcesdependsupontheconditionsandheritageofthesheep.PortPhilipwoolisthefinestinAustraliaandisusedtoproducethehighestqualitywoolenandworstedfabrics.不一樣品種羊毛在質(zhì)量上存在較大差異。澳大利亞細(xì)毛羊，南美國和南非產(chǎn)生非常自由和柔軟羊毛。從這些起源羊毛質(zhì)量取決于羊喂養(yǎng)條件和品種。菲利普港羊毛是澳大利亞最好，被用于生產(chǎn)粗紡和精紡毛織物質(zhì)量最高。WoolfromSouthAfricaisverywavywithagoodwhitecolorandisusedforgoodqualityworstedandwoolengoods.SouthAmericanwoolisusuallyoflowerqualitythanwoolfromAustraliaorSouthAfrica.MerinowoolhasbeensuccessfullyraisedinGermany,France,SpainandtheUnitedStatesandisofhighquality.南非產(chǎn)羊毛是一個好白色非常波浪和用于優(yōu)質(zhì)精紡呢絨。南美洲羊毛通常是低質(zhì)量比從澳大利亞或南非羊毛。美利奴羊毛已在德國，成功地提升了法國，西班牙和美國是高質(zhì)量。Toprovidethefreest-qualitywool,productionisscientificallycontrolled.Sheepareinoculatedagainstdisease,dippedinchemicalstoprotectthemagainstinsects,andunlessonrangeland,feddietdesignedtoproducehealthyanimals.提供最優(yōu)質(zhì)羊毛，生產(chǎn)科學(xué)控制。綿羊接種抵抗疾病，浸泡在化學(xué)物質(zhì)來保護他們免受昆蟲，除非在草地，設(shè)計生產(chǎn)出健康動物飼料。Woolcanbeshearedfromthelivinganimalorpulledfromthehideaftertheanimalhasbeenslaughteredforitsmeat.Shearedwooliscalledfleeceorclipwoolandisqualitytopulledwool,whichistakenfromthehidesofslaughteredsheepWoolconsideredsuperior剪羊毛能夠從活動物或從隱藏拉后，動物被屠宰后肉。剪羊毛是羊毛或羊毛和質(zhì)量夾毛被，這是從宰羊羊毛被認(rèn)為是優(yōu)越隱藏Shearingiscurrentlydoneveryrapidlywithpowershears.Agoodworkercancompletelyshearasheepinlessthanoneminute,sometimesasshortas20seconds.RecentdevelopmentsinAustraliahaveledtoaprocesscalledchemicalorbiologicalshearing.Theanimalisfedachemicalsimilartothatusedinthetreatmentofcancer,whichcausethehairtofalloutwithintwoweeks.Withinveryshorttimefollowingthelossofthehair,itstartstogrowagain,andthesheepsuffernodamage.Fibersobtainedinthiswayareslightlylongerthanthoseshearedfromtheanimal,andthereappearstobelessphysicaldamagetothefibers.剪切當(dāng)前功率快速完成剪。一個好工人能夠完全剪力在不到一分鐘，一只羊，有時短為20秒。澳大利亞最近事態(tài)發(fā)展造成過程被稱為化學(xué)或生物剪。動物喂食化學(xué)相同，用于癌癥治療，造成頭發(fā)脫落兩周內(nèi)。頭發(fā)損失后，在很短時間內(nèi)，它又開始生長，和羊不受損害。以這種方式得到纖維比剪切從動物稍長，似乎有對纖維物理傷害少。Usuallyshearingisdoneonceayearintheearlyspring,andthefleeceisremovedinonepiece,rolled,packedintobags,andshippedtothenearestprocessingcenter.Pulledwoolisremovedfromthehidebyoneoftwomethods.Itmaybetreatedwithadepilatorythatloosensthefiberandpermitsittobepulledawayfromtheskinwithoutdamagingthehide,oritCanbeloosenedbytheactionofbacteriaontherootendofthefiber.Pulledwoolisusuallymixedwithfleeceorclipwoolbeforeprocessingintoyarnsandfabrics.通常剪切是一年做一次在早春，和羊毛是一塊，刪除卷，包裝成袋，并運到最近加工中心。拔毛是由兩種方法中一個從隱藏刪除。它能夠用脫毛，松開纖維和允許它被拉離皮膚無損傷隱藏處理，或者能夠經(jīng)過細(xì)菌對纖維根端動作放松。拔毛通常與羊毛或羊毛混合前夾加工成紗線和織物。Preliminarygradingofwoolfibersisdonewhiletheyarestillinthefleece,becausethisstepisimportantindeterminingcost.Factorsusedindeterminingthegradeofwoolincludefiberfinenessordiameterandlength,theageoftheanimal,thenaturalcolor,thebreedofthesheep,andtheconditionunderwhichtheanimallived.Aftergrading,fleecesareshippedtothemill,wheretheyarepreparedforfurtherprocessingintoyarnsandfabrics.初步羊毛纖維分級是還在羊毛做，因為這一步確定成本是很主要。用于測定棉纖維細(xì)度和品位原因包含直徑和長度，年紀(jì)動物，自然色彩，羊品種，和情況下，動物生活。評分后，羊毛被運輸?shù)焦S，在那里他們準(zhǔn)備深入加工成紗線和織物。Woolisattackedbyhotsulfuricacidanddecomposescompletely.mostothermineralacidsofallstrengths.Woolwilldissolveincausticsodasolutionsthatwouldhavelittleeffectoncotton.羊毛是由熱硫酸攻擊并完全分解。大多數(shù)其它不一樣濃度無機酸。羊毛會溶解在燒堿處理方案，將對棉花影響不大。第五課StructureandPropertiesofWool羊毛纖維結(jié)構(gòu)和性能Underthemicroscopicobservation,thelengthofthewoolfibershowsascalestructure.Thesizeofthescalevariesfromverysmalltocomparativelybroadandlarge.Asmanyas700scalesarefoundin1cmoffinewool,whereascoarsewoolmayhaveasfewas275percm.Finewooldoesnothaveasclearanddistinctscalesascoarsewool,buttheycanbeidentifiedunderhighmagnification.顯微觀察下，羊毛纖維長度顯示了一個規(guī)模結(jié)構(gòu)。規(guī)模大小從比較寬廣和大很小改變。多達(dá)700尺度是羊毛1厘米，而粗毛可能為每厘米275少。細(xì)羊毛沒有粗羊毛為清楚明確尺度，但他們能夠在高放大倍數(shù)確實定。Acrosssectionofwoolshowsthreedistinctpartstothefiber.Theouterlayer,calledcuticle,iscomposedofthescales.Thesescalesaresomewhathornyandirregularinshape,andtheyoverlap,withthetoppointingtowardsthetipofthefiber;theyaresimilartofishscales.Themajorportionofthefiberisthecortex(composedofcorticalcells);thisextendstowardthecenterfromthecuticlelayer.Corticalcellsarelongandspindle-shapedandprovidefiberstrengthandelasticity.Thecortexaccountsforapproximately90percentofthefibermass.Inthecenterofthefiberisthemedulla.Thesizeofthemedullavariesandinfinefibersmaybeinvisible.Thisistheareathroughwhichfoodreachedthefiberduringgrowth,anditcontainspigmentthatgivescolortofibers.羊毛橫截面顯示三個不一樣部分纖維。外層，稱為角質(zhì)層，由刻度。這些鱗片形狀有點角質(zhì)和不規(guī)則，和他們重合，與頂端指向尖端纖維；他們是類似魚鱗。纖維主要部分是皮質(zhì)（由皮層細(xì)胞）；這延伸向角質(zhì)層中心。皮質(zhì)細(xì)胞長梭形和提供纖維強度和彈性。約百分之90纖維質(zhì)皮層帳戶。在光纖中心是髓質(zhì)。延髓尺寸改變和細(xì)纖維可能是看不見。這是經(jīng)過食品達(dá)成纖維在生長過程中區(qū)域，它包含顏料，使色纖維。Woolfibersvaryinlengthfrom3.8toabout38cm.Mostauthoritieshavedeterminedthatfinewoolsareusuallyfrom3.8to12.7cm;mediumwoolfrom6.4to15.2cm;andlong(coarse)woolsfrom12.7to38cm.羊毛纖維長度在3.8到38厘米不等。大多數(shù)當(dāng)局已經(jīng)確定，細(xì)羊毛通常從3.8到12.7厘米；中毛從6.4到15.2厘米；長（粗）從12.7到38厘米羊毛。Thewidthofwoolalsovariesconsiderably.FinefiberssuchasMerinohaveanaveragewidthofabout15to17microns;whereasmediumwoolaverages24to34micronsandcoarsewoolabout40microns.Somewoolfibersareexceptionallystiffandcoarse;thesearecalledkempandaverageabout70micronsindiameter.羊毛寬度也有很大差異。細(xì)纖維，如羊毛具備約15至17微米平均寬度；而介質(zhì)羊毛平均為24至34微米和40微米粗羊毛。一些羊毛纖維非常僵硬和粗糙；這些都是所謂肯普和平均直徑約70微米。Thewoolfibercrosssectionmaybenearlycircular,butmostwoolfiberstendtobeslightlyellipticalorovalinshape.Woolfibershaveanaturalcrimp,abuilt-inwaviness.Thecrimpincreasestheelasticityandelongationpropertiesofthefiberandalsoaidsinyarnmanufacturing.Itisthree-dimensionalincharacter;inotherwords,itnotonlymovesaboveandbelowacentralaxisbutalsomovestotherightandleftoftheaxis.羊毛纖維橫截面可為近圓形，但大多數(shù)羊毛纖維往往形狀略呈橢圓形或橢圓形。羊毛纖維具備天然卷曲，內(nèi)置波紋。卷曲增加纖維彈性和延伸性，也有利于紗線制造。它是三維性質(zhì)；換句話說，它不但將以上及中心軸下面也向右移動軸左。Thereissomelustertowoolfibers.Fineandmediumwooltendstohavemorelusterthanverycoarsefibers.Fiberswithahighdegreeoflusteraresilkyinappearance.有光澤毛纖維。細(xì)中羊毛往往比很粗纖維較多光澤。與光澤程度高纖維外觀光滑。Thecolorofthenaturalwoolfiberdependsonthebreedofsheep.Mostwool,afterscouring,isayellowish-whiteorivorycolor.Somefibersmaybegray,black,tanorbrown.天然羊毛纖維顏色取決于羊品種。沖刷后，大多數(shù)毛，是淡黃色白色或象牙色。一些纖維可能是灰色，黑色，褐色或棕色。Thetenacityofwoolis1.0to1.7gramsperdenierwhendry;whenwet,itdropsto0.7to1.5g/d.Comparedwithmanyotherfibers,woolisweak,andthisweaknessrestrictsthekindsofyarnsandfabricconstructionsthatcanbeusedsatisfactorily.However,ifyarnsandfabricsofoptimumweightandtypeareproduced,theend-useproductwillgivecommendablewearandretainshapeandappearance.Fiberpropertiessuchasresiliency,elongation,andelasticrecoverycompensateforthelowstrength.羊毛強度是1至1.7克/否定干燥時；當(dāng)濕，它下降到0.7至1.5克/天。與其余許多纖維相比，羊毛是弱，和這一弱點限制了紗線和織物結(jié)構(gòu)，可滿意種類。然而，假如生產(chǎn)最好重量和類型紗線和織物，最終使用產(chǎn)品會給值得稱道磨損和保持形狀和外觀。如彈性纖維，拉伸性能，和彈性恢復(fù)賠償?shù)蛷姸?。Woolhasexcellentelasticityandextensibility.Atstandardconditionsthefiberwillextendbetween20and40percent.Itmayextendmorethan70percentwhenwet.Recoveryissuperior.Aftera2percentelongationthefiberhasanimmediateregainorrecoveryof99percent.Evenat10percentextension,ithasarecoveryofwellover50percent,whichishigherthanforanyotherfiberexceptnylon.羊毛纖維具備優(yōu)良彈性和可擴展性。在標(biāo)準(zhǔn)條件下，將20和百分之40之間延伸纖維。它可能會超出百分之70時，濕?？祻?fù)優(yōu)于。百分之2伸長纖維具備立刻恢復(fù)或恢復(fù)后百分之99。即使在百分之10延伸，它具備超出百分之50回收，這比其余任何除了尼龍纖維。Theresiliencyofwoolisexceptionallygood.Itwillreadilyspringbackintoshapeaftercrushingorcreasing.However,throughtheapplicationofheat,moistureandpressure,durablecreasesorpleatscanbeputintowoolfabrics.Thiscreaseorpressretentionistheresultofmolecularadjustmentandtheformationofnewcross-linkagesinthepolymer.Besidesresistancetocrushingandwrinkling,theexcellentresilienceofwoolfibergivesthefabricitsloft,whichproducesopen,porousfabricswithgoodcoveringpower,orthick,warmfabricsthatarelightinweight.Woolisveryflexibleandpliable,soitcombineseaseofhandlingandcomfortwithgoodshaperetention.羊毛彈性非常好。它能夠恢復(fù)原形粉碎后或壓痕。然而，經(jīng)過應(yīng)用熱，濕度和壓力，耐用折痕或褶皺能夠放在毛織物。這種折痕或按保留分子調(diào)整結(jié)果和聚合物中新交叉鏈接形成。除了抗破碎和起皺，羊毛纖維優(yōu)良回彈性賦予織物產(chǎn)生閣樓，打開，多孔織物具備良好遮蓋力，或厚，保暖面料，重量輕。羊毛是非常靈活，柔軟，所以它結(jié)合操控性和舒適性具備良好保形性緩解。Thestandardmoistureregainofwoolis13.6to16.0percent.Undersaturationconditions,woolwillabsorbmorethan29percentofitsweightinmoisture.Thisabilitytoabsorbisresponsibleforthecomfortofwoolinhumid,coldatmospheres.Aspartofthemoistureabsorptionfunction,woolproducesorliberatesheat.However,aswetwoolbeginstodry,theevaporationcausesheattobeabsorbedbythefiber,and"chilling"maybeexperienced,thoughthechillingfactorissloweddownastheevaporationrateisreduced.Thepropertyofmoistureabsorptionanddesorptionpeculiartowoolandsimilarhairfibersiscalledhygroscopicbehavior.Woolacceptscolorsandfinisheseasilybecauseofitsmoistureabsorptionproperties.標(biāo)準(zhǔn)回潮率為13.6～百分之16羊毛。飽和條件下，毛將吸收更多水分比在其重量百分之29。這種吸收能力，負(fù)責(zé)羊毛在潮濕舒適，冷空氣。作為吸濕功效部分，羊毛產(chǎn)生或釋放熱量。然而，作為濕羊毛開始干燥，蒸發(fā)引發(fā)燒被纖維吸收，和“冷”，可能是有經(jīng)驗，盡管嚴(yán)寒原因減緩蒸發(fā)率降低。吸濕和解吸羊毛和類似頭發(fā)纖維特有性質(zhì)稱為吸濕行為。毛接收顏色和完成輕易因其吸濕性能。Despitetheabsorptionpropertiesofwool,ithasanunusualpropertyofexhibitinghydrophobiccharacteristics.Thatis,ittendstoshedliquideasilyandappearsnottoabsorbmoisture.Thecauseisacombinationoffactors:interfacialsurfacetension,uniformdistributionofpores,andlowbulkdensity.Thesemoisturepropertieshelpmakewoolverydesirableforuseinavarietyofsituationswheremoisturecanbeaproblemtocomfort.盡管羊毛吸收性能，它已表現(xiàn)出疏水特征一個獨特性能。那是，它往往流液輕易出現(xiàn)不吸收水分。原因是多個原因結(jié)合：界面表面張力，孔隙分布均勻，與低密度。這些水分特征使羊毛非常理想使用在各種情況下，水分能夠撫慰一個問題。Woolfibersarenotdimensionallystable.Thestructureofthefibercontributestoashrinkingandfeltingreactionduringprocessing,useandcare.Thisisdue,inpart,tothescalestructureofthefiber.Whensubjectedtoheat,moisture,andagitation,thescalestendtopulltogetherandmovetowardthefibertip.Thispropertyisnoticeableinyarnsandfabricsandisresponsibleforbothfeltingandrelaxationshrinkage.羊毛纖維沒有尺寸穩(wěn)定。纖維結(jié)構(gòu)有利于收縮和縮反應(yīng)在加工過程中，使用和保養(yǎng)。這是因為，在某種程度上，纖維鱗片結(jié)構(gòu)。當(dāng)受到熱，濕度，和攪拌，天平傾向于一起拉向光纖尖。此屬性是顯著紗線和織物和負(fù)責(zé)氈縮和松弛收縮。第六課Silk絲綢Forapproximately3000yearsChinasuccessfullyheldthesecretofsilkandsericultureandheldavirtualmonopolyonthesilkindustry.AboutAD300Japanlearnedthesecretofraisingsilkwormsandreelingthefilamentsfromthecocoons.約30，中國成功舉行了絲綢和養(yǎng)蠶秘密持在絲綢行業(yè)壟斷。約公元3日本學(xué)習(xí)養(yǎng)蠶繅絲絲繭秘密。Throughouthistory,silkhasmaintainedapositionofgreatprestigeandisconsideredaluxuryfiber.Itisoftencalledthe"queenoffibers"Perhapsoneofthemostimportantcontributionssilkhasmadeinthehistoryoftextilesisthatitwasresponsibleforinvestigationintothepossibleproductionofman-madefibers.Scientistsobservedhowthesilkwormspunthefibersandbelievedthatpeoplecouldduplicatetheart.縱觀歷史，絲綢一直保持著巨大顯赫地位，被認(rèn)為是一個奢侈纖維。它通常被稱為“纖維皇后”可能是最主要貢獻(xiàn)之一絲綢紡織品歷史是負(fù)責(zé)為人造纖維生產(chǎn)調(diào)查。科學(xué)家們觀察到，蠶紡纖維和相信人們能夠復(fù)制藝術(shù)。Silkisoneofthestrongestnaturalfibersusedincreatingtextileproducts.Ithasatenacityof2.4to5.1gramsperdenierwhendry.Wetstrengthisabout80to85percentofthedrystrength.Silkhasgoodelasticityandmoderateelongation,whenitisdry,theelongationvariesfrom10to25percent;whenwet,silkwillelongateasmuchas33to35percent.At2percentelongationthefiberhasa92percentelasticrecovery.絲綢是最強天然纖維用于制造紡織品。它有一個堅韌2.4到5.1克每否定干燥時。濕強度是約80至百分之85干強度。蠶絲具備良好彈性和適度延伸，當(dāng)它是干燥，從10到25%伸長率改變；當(dāng)濕，絲伸長多達(dá)33到百分之35。在百分之2伸長率下纖維具備百分之92彈性恢復(fù)。Silkhasmediumresiliency.Creaseswillhangoutrelativelywell,butnotsoquicklyorcompletelyasforwool.蠶絲具備介質(zhì)彈性。折痕將比很好，但不太快或完全作為羊毛。Thedensityofspecificgravityofsilkiscitedas1.25to1.34gramspercubiccentimeter,dependingontheresourceused.Becauseofthenatureofsilk,itispossiblethatthedensityvariesamongfibersaswellasbetweenthevarioustypesofmothsthatformthefiber.Anothersourceofvariationmaybeduetomethodsusedindeterminingdensity.Inanycase,thedensityresultsintheformationoflightweightbutstrongfilaments,yarnsandfabrics.絲綢比重密度為1.25到1.34克每立方厘米，這取決于所用資源。因為絲綢性質(zhì)，它是可能，密度不一樣纖維以及飛蛾，形成各種纖維之間。另一個起源改變可能是因為在密度測定方法。在任何情況下，在輕而堅固細(xì)絲，形成紗線和織物密度結(jié)果。Silkhasarelativelyhighstandardmoistureregainof11percent.Atsaturationtheregainis25to35percent.