fabricating a line 選擇服裝用織物

Chapter4Casestudy1Fabrication制造Fabricationistheprocessofselectingorcreatingastyleforafabric.制造，是選擇或創(chuàng)建的織物風(fēng)格的過(guò)程。Thefabricthatissuitableforaspecificstyledependonthecharacteristicsofthefabric:織物適合特定的樣式取決于織物的特點(diǎn)：Surfaceinterest----color,aesthetics,pattern,texture.表面利益----色彩，美學(xué)，圖案，紋理。Weight---correctweightforwearrequirement,seasonandconstructiondetails.重量---對(duì)于穿著要求，季節(jié)和施工細(xì)節(jié)需要的正確重量。Fabrichand---correctstiffnessforsilhouette;fabricfeelspleasantanddrapeswell.織物手感——輪廓正確的剛度；面料質(zhì)感和懸垂性好Fiber---suitedtotheseason,goodperformanceandeasycare;allergicreactionsrare.纖維---適合季節(jié)，性能好，易于護(hù)理；適合的應(yīng)變反應(yīng)Thesefourelementsfromthecharaterofthefabric.這4種因素構(gòu)成了面料的特性。Theyaslodictatemanyofthelimitsonstyling.他們也反映了領(lǐng)型的局限性。Thedesignershouldbefamiliarwithalltypesoffabric,justasapotterisfamiliarwiththepropertiesofmanytypesofcaly.設(shè)計(jì)者們應(yīng)該對(duì)各種面料了如指掌，就像陶工對(duì)各種粘土的特性了如指掌一樣。Thedesignerisafabricsculptor,andthehumanbodyistheframeofreference.設(shè)計(jì)者們就是一個(gè)面料雕塑家，而人體就是供其參考的框架。Theexperienceddesignercanlookatapieceoffabricorfeelitandenvisionthetypeofgarmentitcanbemadeinto.一個(gè)有經(jīng)驗(yàn)的設(shè)計(jì)者可以通過(guò)看或者摸一塊面料就能想象到它能做成的衣服的風(fēng)格。Thisabilityisdevelopedbyexpermentingwithmanydifferentfabricandagreatvarietyofstyles.這種能力是通過(guò)在與各種面料和各種款式的衣服打交道中形成的。Usually,thedesignerhasaworkingkonwledgeofbasictextileconstruction,dyeing,andfinishingandisfamiliarwithnaturalandsyntheticfibers.通常情況下，設(shè)計(jì)者對(duì)基本的紡織物結(jié)構(gòu)，染色工藝，衣服成品都有一定的專業(yè)知識(shí)，對(duì)各種天然和合成纖維也要熟悉Thisbasicknowledgecanbeexpandbytalkingwithtextilesalespeopleandreadingtradepapers.這個(gè)基本知識(shí)可以通過(guò)與紡織品貿(mào)易的銷售人員和閱讀貿(mào)易文件擴(kuò)大。（從這個(gè)往下是翻譯器翻譯的，自己整理語(yǔ)句）Innovationsinthetextileindustryareconstant,andfabricmillsareeagertokeepmanufacturersanddesignersup-to-dateondevelopments.在紡織工業(yè)的不斷創(chuàng)新和布廠十分希望能留住制造商和設(shè)計(jì)師最新上的最新發(fā)展。Manytextileandfiberfirmsattempttosolveconstructionproblemsthatarisewithanewfiberormethodofconstruction.許多紡織纖維企業(yè)為了解決發(fā)生的問(wèn)題，建設(shè)一個(gè)新的纖維或施工方法。Thedesignermustevaluatetheperformanceofapieceoffabricaswellastheaestheticaspectsbeforeelectingtouseitinaline.設(shè)計(jì)者必須評(píng)估的織物的性能以及審美方面的選舉之前，使用1一致。AshrinkingtestunderthepressingbuckoftheHoffmanpressisthefirststep.阿由霍夫曼記者迫切降壓萎縮的考驗(yàn)是第一步。Toperformthistest,cuta12-by-12-inchpieceoffabricandacorrespondingpieceofpaper.要執(zhí)行此測(cè)試，開(kāi)鑿12×12英寸的一塊布和紙相應(yīng)的一塊。Pressthefabric,andthenlineitupwiththepaperpatternstandard.按面料，然后一致，與標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的紙樣。Ifsteam,heatandpressurehavemadethefabricshrinkmorethanahalf-inchspan,problemswilloccurwhenthegarmentispressed.如果蒸汽，熱量和壓力已使織物收縮了50多英寸的時(shí)間內(nèi)，不會(huì)出現(xiàn)問(wèn)題時(shí)，按下服裝。Theaveragelengthofajacketis26inches.Afabricthatshrinksahalf-inchonthepressingbuckwillshortenthejacketby1inch.一件外衣的平均長(zhǎng)度為26英寸。阿織物收縮的緊迫降壓半英寸將縮短1英寸的外套。Interfacingandliningusuallydonotshrink,soajacketwouldbeverydifficulttoconstructinthisfabric.接口和襯里通常不收縮，所以?shī)A克將很難在此興建面料。Somedesignerwashordry-cleanafabriconceithasbeenmadeintoasampletoseehowitperforms.一些設(shè)計(jì)師洗或干洗織物一旦被納入樣本作出看看它是如何執(zhí)行。Trimsshouldbetestedtomakesuretheycanwithstandthesamecareinstructionsasthebasegoods.裝飾應(yīng)測(cè)試，以確保他們能承受為基礎(chǔ)的商品相同的保養(yǎng)說(shuō)明。Thedesignermayelecttosendquestionablefabricstoaprofessionaltestinglaboratorythatwillruntestsforcolorfastness,washabilityandabrasion.設(shè)計(jì)者可以選擇發(fā)送到一個(gè)可疑的面料專業(yè)的測(cè)試實(shí)驗(yàn)室，將角逐色牢度，耐洗，耐磨損測(cè)試。Theseprofessionaltestsareespeciallyimportantforgarmentsthatmuststanduptotherigidquality-controlinspectionsofmassmerchandiserlikeSears,JCPenneyandMontgomery.這些專業(yè)測(cè)試的服裝尤其重要，必須經(jīng)得起嚴(yán)格的質(zhì)量，如西爾斯，JCPenney和蒙哥馬利大眾化商場(chǎng)監(jiān)督檢查。Workingwithfabricsisanexcellentbackgroundforabeginningdesigner.面料的工作，是一個(gè)開(kāi)始，設(shè)計(jì)出色的背景。Designstudentsoftengetjobsellingfabricsoverthecounter,andthisexposuretoavarietyoffabricsisgoodtraining.設(shè)計(jì)系學(xué)生經(jīng)常得到就業(yè)銷售柜臺(tái)織物，這為各種織物的接觸，是很好的訓(xùn)練。Homesewingisanothergoodwaytolearnaboutfabrics.家庭縫紉是另一種好方法，了解面料。Experimentationandobservationarethekeystodevelopingasenseoffabrication.實(shí)驗(yàn)和觀察，是發(fā)展的制造感的關(guān)鍵。Casestudy2FiberFashionCycles光纖時(shí)尚循環(huán)Fibershavefashioncyclesjustassilhouettesandcolorsdo.纖維剛才的輪廓和顏色時(shí)尚周期做。Consumerpreferencechanges,reflectingdifferentlifestylesandvalues,thoughthisisanevolutionarychangethatoftenspansadecadeormore.消費(fèi)者喜好的改變，反映了不同的生活方式和價(jià)值觀，雖然這是一個(gè)漸進(jìn)的變化，往往跨越十年或更長(zhǎng)時(shí)間。Technicalinnovationsalsocreatchangesinfiberdemands.技術(shù)創(chuàng)新纖維需求也共創(chuàng)變化。Polyesterbecamepopularintheearly1960s.聚酯流行在60年代初。High-fashiondesigners,suchasHalstonandBillBlass,usedtheinnovationUltrasuedeandpolyesterjerseystcreatexpensivegarments.高級(jí)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師，如Halston品牌和比爾布拉斯，用創(chuàng)新Ultrasuede和聚酯球衣噸共創(chuàng)昂貴的服裝。Atthesametime,theyoungergenerationdiscovereddenimjeansandjackets.同時(shí)，年輕一代的發(fā)現(xiàn)牛仔褲和外套。Polyestercontinuedingreatdemandformorethantwodecades,especiallywiththemiddleclass,whovaluedperformanceandtheeasy-carecharacteristicsofthesyntheticfibers.聚酯繼續(xù)超過(guò)二十年，需求，特別是中產(chǎn)階級(jí)，誰(shuí)重視性能和易用的合成纖維護(hù)理特點(diǎn)。Naturalfiberswereconsideredappropriatefortheyoung,anddenimwasacounter-culturefabric.天然纖維被認(rèn)為是合適的青年，和牛仔布是一種反文化結(jié)構(gòu)。Gradually,themarketfornaturalfibersgrew,andpolyesterdeclinedinpopularity.漸漸地，對(duì)天然纖維的市場(chǎng)增長(zhǎng)，以及聚酯的沒(méi)落。Manymanufacturersdidnotidentifythesechangeandwentoutofbusiness.許多制造商并沒(méi)有找出這些變化和歇業(yè)。Finally,afterdecadesofbeingrelativelyunpopular,polyesterisreturningtothefashionsceneasmicrofilamentandfleeceandisfashionableonceagain.最后，經(jīng)過(guò)幾十年的是相對(duì)比較冷門，聚酯返回的微絲和羊毛時(shí)裝舞臺(tái)，是時(shí)尚的一次。Evolutionarychangesareoftendifficultforbusinesstoadapttobecausetheyhappenoveralongperiodoftimeandtheurgeisgreattoresistfundamentalchangesinformulathathasbeensuccessfulforseveralyears.進(jìn)化變化往往難以適應(yīng)企業(yè)，因?yàn)樗鼈儼l(fā)生在一段長(zhǎng)時(shí)間，大的沖動(dòng)，是在抵制公式根本的改變，至今已有數(shù)年的成功。Fibercompaniesfrequentlyofferadvertisingmoneytomanufacturerswhousesubstantialamountsoftheirfiber.光纖公司經(jīng)常提供給制造商的廣告費(fèi)用，誰(shuí)使用了