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1、"Light, refined, learned and noble, harmonious and orderly, clear and logical, the cooking of France is, in some strange manner, intimately linked to the genius of her greatest men."輕逸,精確,博大而高貴,古老而和諧,明晰而富有邏輯,法式烹飪正是如此:它以某種奇妙的方式,與法國(guó)人最優(yōu)秀的品質(zhì)緊密相連?!盇 CUISINE CRISIS 烹飪危機(jī)1What could be more French
2、 than an outdoor market on a sunny Sunday morning The air is f川ed with vital scents from the herbs and fruits and vegetablespiled high in the greengrocers creative geometrics.還有什么事物比晴朗周日早晨的戶外市場(chǎng)更具法國(guó)特色嗎香草和水果的味道sent使空氣充滿了生機(jī),蔬菜被菜販堆擺pal出充滿創(chuàng)意的幾何形狀 d'metrk。A whiff of the Atlantic blows off the oysters
3、on the fishmongers' bed of ice. Wild game-hare, venison, boar-hangs from the butchers' racks sausagesand cheeses are laid out to savor and smell.大西洋的氣息吹拂著魚商'fmg冰床上的牡蠣st。野兔、鹿肉'vens()n、野豬 都掛列在屠夫的 架子上,香腸和奶酪則陳擺出來(lái)以供品嘗和玩味。2This, you think, is the very essenceof France, until you read those
4、 little signs that tell you the tomatoes (which are really pretty tasteless) come from Moroccan hothouses,the grapes from South Africa, kiwis from Chile and the haricot from Kenya.You can't be sure where that boar bit the dust.在你讀到那些標(biāo)識(shí)之前,你一定會(huì)認(rèn)為這就是法國(guó)的精華所在。而正是那些標(biāo)識(shí)會(huì)告訴你(極其無(wú)味的)土豆來(lái)自摩洛哥m'rkn的熱屋,葡萄酒
5、grep來(lái)自南非,彳彌猴桃'kiw來(lái)自智利'tili,而扁豆'hrk(t)來(lái)則自肯尼亞kinj。3The congenial quaintness(n.) of the street market, in fact, draws directly on globalization. Emile Zola once called "the belly of Paris", the rich, ripe, smelly center of the wholesale food business, long since moved out of downt
6、own(a./n.) to a cargo hub() near Qrly airport.事實(shí)上,街市上那些彼此相宜的kn'dinl稀奇古怪的事kwentns是全球化 g lob()'zein的結(jié)果。這個(gè)富裕的、成熟的rap、難聞的被埃米爾.左拉稱為 巴黎的肚子”的大型食品 批發(fā)'hlsel中心是很久,以前搬出市中心到奧利機(jī)場(chǎng)附近 的。Quite literally, that is now where a lot of French cooking begins-and, increasingly; where the era of great French cui
7、sine as something truly unique and exclusive to France is slowly coming to an end.毫不夸張的說(shuō),這里是現(xiàn)在很多法國(guó)烹飪的開始的地方,而且漸漸地偉大的法國(guó)烹飪時(shí)代(一些真正獨(dú)具特色并專屬法國(guó)的事物)就要緩慢的結(jié)束了。4For generations; the French have prided themselves on theirdistinctiveness. Nothing has stood for France's sense oexceptionalism more famously than
8、 its cooking. Gallic talent; taste(n.) and techniques have been exported all over the world. And therein(adv.) lies ()part to the problem.好幾代法國(guó)人都因?yàn)樗麄兊?與眾不同而感到驕傲。沒有任何事物比這個(gè)國(guó)家的 烹飪更能代表它卓越的品質(zhì)。高盧人的才華、 品味和技藝已經(jīng)在全世界聲名赫 赫。但是問(wèn)題也隨之而來(lái)。From the Napa Valley to the Thames and Tokyo; non-French cooks havecracked the
9、 codes of the best French cuisine. Meanwhile; what was mediocre elsewhere-albeit cheap and popular-has been imported. The result: Many tourists-as well as the French themselves-no longer see what's so special about French Cooking.從納帕谷到東京和 泰晤士河temz,非法國(guó)裔的廚師已經(jīng) 破解krk 了最精致的法 國(guó)菜的秘訣kdz。與此同時(shí),其他地方一些 平庸的m
10、id'k烹飪,雖然l'bit便宜 又流行,最終還是 流入了法國(guó)。最終導(dǎo)致這樣一種結(jié)果:包括法國(guó)人在內(nèi)的許 多游客再也看不到何為法國(guó)的特色了。5The decline goes well beyond recent surveys that show growing complaints about mediocre quality and high prices-no small concern in a country where tourisme gastronomique(法語(yǔ))earned 18 billion euros in 2002; a quarter of a
11、ll tourist revenues從最近的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查可以看出對(duì)于那些,馬馬虎虎的質(zhì)量和昂貴價(jià)格的抱怨,而 飲食業(yè)實(shí)際的衰落不止于此。在這樣一個(gè)2002年美食旅游收入達(dá)1800萬(wàn)歐元 'ju:rus,占其旅游收入'revnju將近四分之一的的國(guó)家來(lái)說(shuō),這并非小事。More and more restaurateurs say that government tax and economic policies are limiting their profits; and thereby hurting their capacity to invest and hire more
12、 staff.越來(lái)越多的餐館老板表示,政府的稅收和財(cái)政政策正在限制著他們的盈利,也 因此打擊削弱了他們投資和雇傭更多員工的能力。They have becomeensnarled in the red tape(n.) for which France isinfamous-not to mention edicts from Brussels that affect everything from sales taxes to the bacteria in the Brie.他們被法國(guó)臭名昭著的 繁瑣流程(腳)所束縛en'snal更不說(shuō)那些干涉介入到從 營(yíng)業(yè)稅到布里奶酪中 細(xì)菌bk
13、'tr含量等每件事情中的歐洲 法令'idkt。6Not coincidentally, it was the French who taught the world that water has many very different, very marketable。tastes. At the annual agricultural fair(n.) in Paris this spring,visitors not only enjoyed sipping wines, but olive oils-one a little nutty(a.), another quit
14、efruity , some of them, one is tempted to say, just a littleimpudent.與此境況不一致的()ku,insi'dentli是,也正是法國(guó)人教會(huì)了全世界:水是可以有 許多不同的的口味,這個(gè)口味能賣個(gè)好價(jià)錢。這個(gè)春天每年一度的農(nóng)展會(huì)上,到訪者不僅 品嘗了美酒而且享受了 橄欖'lv油,這些橄欖油一些是 堅(jiān)果味(nut n.),大多數(shù)是水果味,還有一些,不得丕'tem(p)tid說(shuō)味道有點(diǎn)沖('mpjd()nt a.粗 魯?shù)?、無(wú)恥的)。Even table salt has its distinctions
15、, with fleur de sel(), the thin layer(n.) collected on the surface of salt basins in the Bordeaux region, now much appreciated. "France is one of those countries where people can leave the table full and still be talking about food," jokes chef Yannick Alleno, 35, who brought a new star to
16、 the restaurant of the Hotel Meurice this year. His favorite specialty: sea bass sewn with golden threads().甚至餐桌的鹽也有不同的花樣,鹽之花fl: ”采集于一種采自波爾多b:'du地區(qū)鹽池盆地表面的薄層'le,在此大受歡迎。法國(guó)是那些人們酒足飯飽離開餐桌之后仍然討論食物的國(guó)家之一。"廚師ef雅尼克諾阿開玩笑說(shuō),他今年 35歲, 剛剛為克里斯酒店的餐廳帶來(lái)了一顆新的等級(jí)之星。他最喜歡的特色菜是:金線鯨魚bes o sewn(sn sew)7But the rea
17、l paradox of French cooking-in France, at least-is that artistic success often spells business disaster. Starred(a.) chefs often end up drowning in red ink as they try to maintain the high standards that made their names.然而法國(guó)飲食業(yè)真正的 悖論是,藝術(shù)的成功往往 意味著商業(yè)的災(zāi)難,至少在法 國(guó)是這樣吧。星級(jí)st Q d的師們?yōu)榱吮3炙麄兊靡猿擅母邩?biāo)準(zhǔn),一般都會(huì)入不 敷出。
18、8Consider the value-added taxes that were "harmonized".)" all over Europe duringthe 1990s. They benefit fast-food chains, since the tax on takeaway is only %percent, while they penalize sit-down restaurants, whether humble bistros or haute cuisine, which pay %.想想增值.稅曾經(jīng)在九十年代統(tǒng)一”了整個(gè)歐洲。它們
19、有益于快餐食物鏈,因?yàn)?外賣稅只有;可它們害苦了 'pi:nlaz那些不能隨便移動(dòng)的傳統(tǒng)餐館,不論是 簡(jiǎn) 陋的'hmbl小酒館'bistr還是高級(jí)餐廳的稅率都高達(dá) 。When President Jacques Chirac ran for re-election in 2002, he promised to reduce the tax, but such is the nature of the new Europe that all 25 countries will have to approve the measure for it to take effe
20、ct-in 2006.希拉克總統(tǒng)2002年競(jìng)選連任時(shí)曾保證要降低稅率,但要使這一措施2006年生效,必須得到歐盟所有25個(gè)成員國(guó)的同意。有什么辦法呢,這就是新歐洲啊。The government is instituting other complicated tax breaks and stopgap measures in the meantime to try to calm the restive restaurateurs and in hopes of creating (a starred chef) Daguin is deeplyskeptical(a) ”If the F
21、rench were under the same fiscal regime(n.)as the United States, we'd be able to create twice as many jobs," he says.政府現(xiàn)在正實(shí)施其他一些復(fù)雜的減稅措施和 權(quán)宜之計(jì)試圖安撫焦躁不安的餐館 老板rest()r't,并希望能借此創(chuàng)造宣多的就業(yè)機(jī)會(huì)。但是星級(jí)廚師達(dá)甘卻對(duì)此 深表懷疑'skeptkl, “要是法國(guó)人可以享受美國(guó)的 財(cái)政'fsk()l政體制度re'im, 我們就能創(chuàng)造兩倍的就業(yè)崗位了。9Strict labor laws
22、restricting hiring, firing and temp-work also figure in the equation."Our business is a succession()of high-stress times and quiet times," says Denis Meliet,a former rugby player and apassionate(a.)restaurateur from Toulouse另外,嚴(yán)格 限制雇工、裁員和招 臨時(shí)工temp的勞動(dòng)法也拖了后腿?!拔覀兊?生意忙二蚱困二蚱_的,”來(lái)自 圖盧茲tu:'lu
23、:z的德尼梅列說(shuō)道。德尼曾經(jīng)是 橄 欖球'rgb運(yùn).員,現(xiàn)在則 充滿熱情的撲在他的飯館上。When it comes to employment, "the problem in France is that we have no flexibility whatsoever。. When we're busy it would be good if, like in England(), we could hire a couple of extra employees to help out." But the law makes that diffic
24、ult.當(dāng)談到就業(yè)問(wèn)題時(shí),他說(shuō):“法國(guó)的問(wèn)題在于根本沒有 靈活性fleks'blt。如果 在活多的時(shí)候能雇一些幫手來(lái)救急,就像在英國(guó)那樣,那就好了。”但是法國(guó) 的法律很難允許這樣做。10Even when government regulations appear specially formulated to support the culture of cuisine, they often "go astray". The EU's Common Agricultural Policy, for instance, is supposed to ben
25、efit small farmers, keep them on the land-and thus, you'd think, nurture the terroir that gives French cooking itssoul, and France much of its national identity.即便是一些看似專為扶持烹飪文化的政府規(guī)定,實(shí)施起來(lái)也往往事與愿違(誤入歧途)'stre。例如,歐盟的共同農(nóng)業(yè)政策本該看服于小農(nóng)場(chǎng)主的利益,鼓勵(lì)他 們堅(jiān)守陣地,從而悉心 培育'nt賦予法國(guó)烹飪 靈魂和激發(fā)法國(guó)人民族認(rèn)同感的 土地terwr。But acti
26、vist Brigitte Allain of the Confederation。Paysanne() a farmer herself,says the CAP, in fact, does just the reverse-favors quantity over quality. "In this system," she says, "farmers are merely providers of staples whose sole requirement(in order to receive generous EUsubsidie is to de
27、liver the goods according to the rules."但是,法國(guó)農(nóng)民聯(lián)合會(huì)knfed're()n的活動(dòng)家布麗吉特阿蘭認(rèn)為,實(shí)際上,共 同農(nóng)業(yè)政策適得其反,因?yàn)樗粗氐氖菙?shù)量而非質(zhì)量。布麗吉特本人就是農(nóng) 民。她認(rèn)為,“在這樣的體制下,農(nóng)民只不過(guò)是主食'step()l的供應(yīng)者,因?yàn)椋?為了能得到歐盟慷慨的 補(bǔ)貼subsidy)他們唯一要做的只是按照規(guī)定 提交產(chǎn)品” 而那些規(guī)定對(duì)于質(zhì)量和口味沒有要求。"If our cuisine has prestige(n.)," says Allain, "it's be
28、cause we have chefs who are interested in good products. And we have good products because we still have a type of agriculture that we call peasant(n.農(nóng)民)agriculture alongside() the factory farms. Notice I say 'still', because this agriculture may not last that long."“如果我們的烹飪能 享譽(yù)pre'
29、sti(d)全球,那是因?yàn)槲覀兊膹N師青睞優(yōu)等貨。我 們有優(yōu)等貨,因?yàn)槌?工廠農(nóng)莊,我們?nèi)匀挥幸环N我們稱之為小農(nóng) 'pez()nt農(nóng)業(yè)的農(nóng)業(yè)形式。但注意我說(shuō)的仍然,因?yàn)檫@種農(nóng)業(yè)可能維持 不了多久了。”1lAs France's great chefs worry about staying in the avant-garde, with their gold threads and miraculous meringues, many small farmers and restaurateurs seem to be fighting a rearguard action
30、just to survive.當(dāng)法國(guó)出色的廚師在為 最前沿的,v' g q俎飪憂心,想著他們的金線和奇妙的m'rkjls蛋白酥m'r的時(shí)候,許多可憐的農(nóng)民和餐館老板正在竭盡全力為生存而 打拼('ri, g ° :dn.)o12The problems afflicting French cuisine are emblematic of those that plague the economy as a whole. Like French cuisine, the French economy still holds the occasional
31、 surprise: last week the government announced that economic growth for 2004 should be higher than expected.總的來(lái)說(shuō)2造成('flkt v.)法式烹飪衰落的原因同樣(a.,embl'mtk)也是造成(v.)法 國(guó)經(jīng)濟(jì)整體不振的原因。如同法式烹飪,法國(guó)經(jīng)濟(jì)仍時(shí)不時(shí)有驚人表現(xiàn):上周 法國(guó)政府宣布2004年經(jīng)濟(jì)增長(zhǎng)將超出預(yù)期。But the basic problems of bureaucracy, taxes and social reluctance() to change remain a burden for everyone. "At all levels-political,social, cultural or biological- cooking is at the forefront(n.) of the great choices that we have to make a
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